Blacksmithing tools

[N2 Welding]

We Totally need to see more pics and videos of that power hammer with the wheel on top.

[psacustomcreations]

I will post this in Craigslist score thread, vut I just picked up two more wrenches for $20.
These are huge and will not be turned into twisting wrenches. Here they are next to one from a few weeks ago.







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[Badgerboy]

Good old tools those. Nice score.

[Badgerboy]

Here is a video of my DP 120 Power hammer made by Dave preston in England. He makes a good hammer! Just messing around with it really, but it demonstrates how useful it is being able to adjust the height. In the first part im using some fairly high old fashioned top tools then I draw out some 1 inch round mild steel.



Heres some more tongs I made too

[VaughnT]

I'm not a big fan of tire hammers in general, but if I absolutely had to have one..... the only option would be the DP120.

Being able to change the height of the headstock means you can work a 6" billet of damascus or forge 1/4" nails.... and always be right in the sweet spot. That large top tool you used would be impossible to fit in a 25lb Little Giant, forcing you to fabricate something that'd just barely fit.... and the 25lb Little Giant is already rather limited in the distance between the dies.

If I could come up with a better flywheel/clutch system, I'd make up a DP120-1 tomorrow.

Nice tongs, too!

[Badgerboy]

I agree with all that you have said. Changing the height manually doesnt take long, maybe 20-30 seconds and makes it so versatile. I would be interested to see your flywheel clutch system if you were to make one.

[VaughnT]

I would be interested to see your flywheel clutch system if you were to make one.

Here's a video that covers it....



I just don't have a lathe big enough, or a mill, or welding skills, or the metal parts to start with.....

Attaching a drive system like the Littie Giant uses wouldn't require too much of a design overhaul, but it would require some changes.

[Shootr]

It's Sunday evening, must be time for Shootr's weekly adventure...

I saw a very cool idea online for a compact forge a couple weeks ago, so today I decided I wanted to build a version of it.

1" angle iron frame to hold some fire bricks I ordered by mistake.


There's a shelf to put the gas bottle on, and the handle doubles as a work rest for longer items. Put wheels on the back, and leveling bolts on the front so it won't wobble.





I angled the burner holder to aim slightly to the rear - I have a pipe burner coming (not the nice one Vaughn mentioned, just a cheapo to get me started.)

I'm going to line the open areas and the roof with more of that ceramic board - I really like that stuff. I quit today so I can stare at it for a while and figure out some tong and hammer holders. Need a bottle strap, and fine tune the handle - needs pretty'd up somehow. Then paint and call it a day.



I be happy. 🥃

[VaughnT]

Okay, so not exactly a blacksmithing tool, but I still think it'd be a fun challenge for the forum.

I'm old enough to remember when these wire clamps were the only option, and I still prefer the wire-wrap ferrules you often find on old file and chisel handles. I've never seen one come loose, something I can't say about metal caps and rings.

As hose clamps go, I think they offer the best connection. I've seen people torque down too hard and actually cut rubber lines, but idiots can be found anywhere.

So.... let's make one for our own shops. No need to copy the video exactly, just as long as it looks good and functions like it's supposed to. Extra points awarded for exceptionally elegant designs.

[Shootr]

Tonight, as I stare at my creation enjoying my cigar, I was mulling ideas on how to run the gas line.

The best looking option IMO is a hard line, out a 90deg fitting on the burner, over a back corner, bent to drop down to bottle level. Then a regular bottle connector/regulator to tie it all together.

Or a regular hose assembly with a steel braided sheath and use hose clamps to secure it to the framework so it's not flopping around.

Since I don't know what kind of heat will be radiating off the forge, I want to be careful that I don't create an issue with how I set it up.

Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated.

[Lis2323]

Tonight, as I stare at my creation enjoying my cigar, I was mulling ideas on how to run the gas line.

The best looking option IMO is a hard line, out a 90deg fitting on the burner, over a back corner, bent to drop down to bottle level. Then a regular bottle connector/regulator to tie it all together.

Or a regular hose assembly with a steel braided sheath and use hose clamps to secure it to the framework so it's not flopping around.

Since I don't know what kind of heat will be radiating off the forge, I want to be careful that I don't create an issue with how I set it up.

Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated.

IMO. Hard line strapped to the frame then flex hose whip to the regulator and tank.

OR hose all the way but not strapped to the frame.


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[psacustomcreations]

Tonight, as I stare at my creation enjoying my cigar, I was mulling ideas on how to run the gas line.

The best looking option IMO is a hard line, out a 90deg fitting on the burner, over a back corner, bent to drop down to bottle level. Then a regular bottle connector/regulator to tie it all together.

Or a regular hose assembly with a steel braided sheath and use hose clamps to secure it to the framework so it's not flopping around.

Since I don't know what kind of heat will be radiating off the forge, I want to be careful that I don't create an issue with how I set it up.

Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe grab some of the exhaust wrap and put that over the lines near the forge.

[VaughnT]

I think it would look dead sexy with some hard line from the burner down to a short whip of hose with a stainless cover on it. Black iron pipe would go great with the look of the frame, but you certainly couldn't go wrong with some copper either.

[Lis2323]

I think it would look dead sexy with some hard line from the burner down to a short whip of hose with a stainless cover on it. Black iron pipe would go great with the look of the frame, but you certainly couldn't go wrong with some copper either.

YES copper. But hard lines not the stuff that comes in coils.

Or steel braided all the way to the matte black powdercoated or polished stainless steel propane tank !


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[Shootr]

The fitting on the burner is a 3/8" brass propane fitting, so I imagine I'd want to use 3/8" tubing throughout. Straight pipe seems rare (in my neck of the desert) - what would be the issue(s) using the coiled type tubing?

[VaughnT]

Straight pipe seems rare (in my neck of the desert) - what would be the issue(s) using the coiled type tubing?

Soft copper tubing that comes in a coil is nearly impossible to get straight. No matter what you try, it's always got a little kink or bow or bulge somewhere along the line.

Copper pipe, though, can be run in beautiful lines, each turn a soldered fitting. When it's new, the pipe gleams with those warm reddish tones we all know and love. As it ages, the patina it develops is second to none.

I think copper piping is also more durable, being a different alloy than its more flexible cousin.


As for running 3/8" throughout, I think you'll need at least one coupling/reducer to go from the regulator to the hose you decide to use. You could run 2" line all the way up to the burner's fitting if you wanted, I believe, since it's just a conduit to get the gas from A to B. I wouldn't go that big, obviously, but I wouldn't fret too much about running a larger line, whatever's convenient, that has to be necked down at the last.

[ronsii]

Polished copper would look so cool!!!!! it's worth doing just for the artisteic value

[Shootr]

I agree - copper it is...if I can ever figure out these adapters!!!!!!!!

This is the fitting that will be on the burner - the maker describes it as a "3/8" propane nipple". I'm fairly certain that means it is a 3/8" male flare fitting? Are the threads NPT on this? Am I correct that "NPT" and "FIP/MIP" can connect together/are interchangeable?



All I am trying to find is an elbow to go from this fitting to copper pipe sweat adapter. Even if it takes a couple pieces together to get to this point I'd be fine - but I will be damned if I can find the parts (with any confidence I'm choosing the correct thread pattern and size.)

I want to go: Male Flare -> 90deg Elbow -> copper pipe. Another question - does the "flare" part matter in this installation? If I am using teflon tape on the threaded connections, is that enough?

I would be greatly in your debt (again) if someone could just steer me or educate me to the correct terminology to use when searching for these adapters/fittings.

[jwmelvin]

Yes that is a flare fitting. One end (screwed into the Tee) will be pipe thread (which goes by several names as you noted; see here).

Why use a flare fitting if you don’t want to connect soft copper? You can anneal the end of the hard copper and flare it, which would give you a removable fitting.

It’s certainly possible to go from flare to tapered pipe, and from that to a solder connection.

My understanding was that, depending on the orientation of your burner that fitting could get hot after shut down. Solder could be bad. Braze or flare would not have that issue.

I planned flare and soft copper for my second forge; I don’t have a problem with soft copper as long as it’s secured. But if you need the straight-line aesthetics of hard copper, you can do that.

[jwmelvin]

Oh also - use sealant on the tapered threads only, not on flare threads.

[VaughnT]

What I did was take my hose and burner down to the hardware store and use it to check every part in the bin until I found the right parts. It wasn't nearly as aggravating as I thought it would be, and it gave me the peace of mind I desperately wanted.

The fitting on your burner works the same as the fitting on the tank -- the conical end jams tight with the conical end on the other fitting, creating a proper seal.

[shortfuse]

Cool looking forge project. While you're working on the plumbing, I would however, replace those cheap black and white wheels with some chrome spinners, LOL

[Shootr]

Progress on the forge: finished the handle/tool rest, and added rails to hold pieces of the ceramic board so I can close the front off a bit.


3/4" pipe burner installed with a 030 mig tip.


Test burn - 5psi:


20psi:


30psi (max)


May be a wee bit under-powered for the chamber volume. The chimney has room to fit a 1" assembly if need be. First we'll see how it works with the ceramic lining and then I'll probably paint it with the reflective coating.

Should be finished next week.

[tanglediver]

This is my third tripod, under my first anvil. I got this far last weekend, and since then I added some restraining metal and a chain clamp.

(no more photo's right now, it's still at work)

[tanglediver]

I shaped some small pieces of flat bar to keep it more or less in one spot, then drilled some holes for a couple of eye bolts.

That made it easy to fit two bolts and two bits of chain around the waist to hold it down.

The last thing I will do when I get to it is to weld the eyes of the bolts shut so they don't distort over time with use.