There were lots of 5XR made for 230 1 ph. The data tag is the only way to check on that specific unit.
The torches and consumable parts are all available, although the newer torch models are a better idea if you need to replace a torch or a torch head. Most repair parts are still available.

The 5XR was a 55 amp machine, rated at 5/8 inch. You could probably sever 1 inch if you gnaw at it long enough.

 

Thanks. Is it worth 550 and any idea how old it would be? Reliable machine?

 

It is over 20 years old.....has a 20 amp, a 35 amp and a 55 amp range, uses a high frequency start torch. It is a good 3/8" machine, will sever 5/8" slowly, 1"? I'm not so sure. It will use quite a few nozzles and electrodes as it is a transformer/drooper design with poor output current control. I should be easy to repair if there are problems.....although I'm not sure if many parts are still available. There were many single phase units and some 3 phase units....check the data tag for voltages. Worth $550? If it is in good working condition....probably.

Jim Colt

 

If the label can't be read. pull the side cover and see if there is a resistor capacitor assembly between the two transformers. The transformers are three phase. The resistor / cap. assembly turn single phase into almost 3 phase power. This allows the this unit to be operated on single phase. Check with your lws see if they have consumables for the torch that is on it. A lot of these plasma's have been converted to the surelok torch.
Just do not drag cut on the high (55amp) setting. It will blow the tip real fast.
Used the correct stand off guide for the torch. As these units age, some times the torches fail to light. If the spark gap has a good arc and you know you have OCV. A small adjustment of the HF gap will help. open them up form 0.008 to 0.009. some times you have to flip the electrode around.. The gap works best if the electrodes have sharp corners.
To test for OCV you must unplug the HF high voltage transformer first. HF will kill you meter fast.
I will say it for Jim. just about any newer Hypertherm plasma will cut better and the consumables will last a lot longer.

 

The 5xr was a good system in its day....and it really got the hand held portable plasma market going! Hypertherm jumped in with their first hand held system about the same time, the Max40. Great machines, but bothe torch technology and power supply technology is far better today,,,,,and even plasma system prices are lower (A Pac5xr was over $2600). Todays 30 and 45 amp units will cut faster, thicker, can drag cut at full power, and will provide about 10x consumable life as compared to these older units.

 

Thanks guys. I picked it up for 400 because we couldn't test and consumables in bad shape. Took it home and got it working. Seems there is a delay till it starts the arc and when you let off the button the air flows for 10 -15 seconds. Is this normal? Also there is a set and run switch. What is this for? Need to go get some consumables next.

 

there is a 1 second preflow before the torch fires.
Post flow gas is to cool down the electrode after cutting.
the run set switch is for setting the correct gas pressure. depending on which torch torch you have. it is 50 of 75 psi. Air pressure is set with the gas on.
The original torch has a black tube handle and screw in electrode and tip. has a ceramic cap that pushes on. The surelok torch has snap in electrode and the screw on cap holds the tip in place. Having to high or to low of air pressure will damage any torch. All plasma torches are designed to run at a specific pressure.
Pressure to low and the torch melts. Not enough air to cool the torch.
To high air pressure and the arc may blow out and the tip and electrode ware faster.
Use only clean, dry, oil free air. Use air filters and dryers. Try to use a stand off cap with this unit. The tips will last a lot longer. Both type torches have them. It is best to not use a metal straight edge for cutting. It attracts the plasma stream and causes the tip to ware fast on one side. Strips of wood, cheap yard sticks work well. Once you learn the correct speed to keep the spark below the metal. they will last.

 

Thanks for all your help. Are the chinese eBay consumables ok to use? The OEM ones are a ridiculous price from the lws. Maybe try the eBay ones till I get the hang of this machine and then go to OEM? Is there a chart somewhere to show what amperage range to use for what thickness of cut? Thanks again.

 

Anyone?

 

You can likely get a complete operators manual from Thermal Dynamics, perhaps can download it from their website. As far as consumables.....there is a reason why the imported ones on Ebay are so cheap. They typically are not manufactured to the same specs as the genuine parts from T-D, and will not cut as well, will not last as long, and can cause internal arcing and heating damage to the torch.

Plasma torches operate on the principals of high temperature physics....cooling and controlling the arc are very critical functions when the generated arc is approaching 25,000 degrees F!

Often, paying more for genuine consumables for a plasma torch is cheaper...if you figure out how many cents per foot of cut you end up paying. a $4 nozzle that cuts 1000 feet is cheaper than a $2 nozzle that cuts 300 feet.

Jim

 

I just received this machine as a hand me down from the guy I apprenticed for. I plugged it in and hooked up the air pressure but nothing happened. I'm searching for new tips etc but am thinking that there is something wrong with the regulator because it is not reading any pressure.
Am I missing something about this machine?
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

When I brought mine home it didn't work either. Took the panels off and there was a plug undone. Plugged it in and it worked. This is an awesome machine but it is big and takes up room but for the price I paid I'm very happy and I'm sure it will out last any chinese pos. Good luck with yours.

 

I have a good working single phase Pakmaster 5XR machine that I would be interested in selling if anyone is interested? It needs the new plastic cup for the end of the gun. It comes with spare new electrodes and tips. Please let me know? I am located in SE Iowa. If I don't sell it by March 14 I will be takeing it to a local consignment auction.

 

Must have air pressure. Turn the adjusting knob up. Fan runs all the time.
Set air pressure with switch is set, air should be flowing.
With power on and no fan, you might want to start by checking the large multi-pin plug in the harness. The complete rear panel can be unplugged for service and replacing parts
PM me If you need some detailed help.