Results 1 to 23 of 23

Thread: Need input on my welding table design

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    210
    Post Thanks / Like

    Need input on my welding table design

    Looking to upgrade from my 3' x 5' welding table to something larger to allow setup of fence sections and longer stock. I've settle on a 5' x 10' table. I wanted a 3/4 inch top but for hot rolled plate my local supplier said it would cost me 1100.00 out the door. 1/2 inch was quoted at 750.00. Does this sound right? So I have decided on the 1/2 (will be checking prices around).

    My main question in regards to my design is with a 10' table, using 4" square stock for the legs (1/4 wall), and 4" flat bar (1/2 thick) for the horizontal support, and 1/2 inch plate for the top do I have enough support? There is an 8' 10" span between the legs. Do I need another pair of legs in the center? I would rather keep the span as designed if I can. Input and thoughts? Thanks!




  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    20
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    really nice table, sounds expensive for the steel, maybe two pieces would be cheaper? not sure though. really jealous, good luck

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    210
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    I thought it sounded a little high as well, but to be honest I don't buy a lot of plate steel to know. I am looking forward to having it done!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,452
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    to answer the question about the legs and the span it is necessary to know the load that will be on the table. should be good for fences unless you are restraining elephants. using 4 x 1/2 flat stock for the "beams" may not be the best choice -might need something stiffer-depending on the answer and your desire to stay with 4 legs..for the money u are gonna spend i think you need to get it right.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Payson, Utah
    Posts
    1,130
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    I have a 2.5 ' x 4.5 ' x 1/2' table top, and it was around $140 - $180 (don't remember the exact amount).
    The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man" Moses 1:39
    Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.

    -- ColdCreekWorks.com --

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    210
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    Weldbead, thanks for the response. I wholeheartedly agree that with this investment it's do it right the first time, hence the post.

    To answer your question about load on the table. Honestly, I don't know. Mostly fence and gate setup... So 300-400 pounds spread out over the table? I know I won't be throwing a big block chevy in the middle of the table, but I don't want to have to baby this thing either.

    My desire for the 4 open legs (no lower horizontal supports) is cleanliness. My 3' x 5' has open legs and it's easier to clean up or roll something under.

    Thanks again for the input.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    210
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    Quote Originally Posted by jdh239 View Post
    I have a 2.5 ' x 4.5 ' x 1/2' table top, and it was around $140 - $180 (don't remember the exact amount).
    Thats about 18.00 a square foot for your plate. Mine calc comes out to 15.00 a square foot. So I guess not to far off.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,452
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    not saying the 4x1/2 will fail, but it would probably be more appropriate to use c channel..in a steel book i dont think you will find flat bar rated in that plane, i could be wrong, but you dont see flat bar used as a beam very often....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    SE Ma
    Posts
    183
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    One thing to consider is that your clamp slot pattern is just about cutting the top plate in half. Some stiffness lost there. How about 2 center legs?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Custer Park, IL.
    Posts
    393
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    I have a similar built table with 3 1/2" square 1/4 wall tubing. It was built using what I hand. The frame is an old warehouse rack and the top is a 1x1 skeleton with 1/8" plate cover.

    The top is of mine only adequate. I think 3/8 or 1/2 would be fine though. I added an outlet in the frame but to date have never used it. An extension cord is always pretty handy.

    As far as the frame it is definitely strong and stable enough. i've gotten pretty medieval with it a few times and it didn't budge. Mine has casters on one end but they are kind of an inside joke beacause it pretty much takes a Kenworth to move the darn thing in my shop which has rough flooring.

    I have some videos on YouTube showing the bench if you'd care to take a look.




    Al
    A man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horse

    Miller DialArc HF
    Lincoln Classic 300D
    Thermal Arc 181i
    Powermax 45
    Scotchman Ironworker
    (2) Bridgeports
    Okomota Surface Grinder
    AutoCAD 2010

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    210
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    Quote Originally Posted by Sputter Fizzle View Post
    One thing to consider is that your clamp slot pattern is just about cutting the top plate in half. Some stiffness lost there. How about 2 center legs?
    The last picture is somewhat deceiving as to how far the clamp slots go. Here is an underside picture of the end of the table. I contained the slots on the end of the table with a surround structure for support.



  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    210
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    Quote Originally Posted by weldbead View Post
    not saying the 4x1/2 will fail, but it would probably be more appropriate to use c channel..in a steel book i dont think you will find flat bar rated in that plane, i could be wrong, but you dont see flat bar used as a beam very often....
    Would I need 1/2" thick C-channel or can I go thinner, say 1/4 inch? Anyone with reference material stating span/load calcs for different materials over that distance (8' 10")?

    Thanks again.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    2,069
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    Quote Originally Posted by jbyrd View Post
    Looking to upgrade from my 3' x 5' welding table to something larger to allow setup of fence sections and longer stock. I've settle on a 5' x 10' table. I wanted a 3/4 inch top but for hot rolled plate my local supplier said it would cost me 1100.00 out the door. 1/2 inch was quoted at 750.00. Does this sound right? So I have decided on the 1/2 (will be checking prices around).
    Sounds expensive to me, but $ varies by region.

    Quote Originally Posted by jbyrd View Post
    My main question in regards to my design is with a 10' table, using 4" square stock for the legs (1/4 wall), and 4" flat bar (1/2 thick) for the horizontal support, and 1/2 inch plate for the top do I have enough support? There is an 8' 10" span between the legs. Do I need another pair of legs in the center? I would rather keep the span as designed if I can. Input and thoughts? Thanks!
    From eye-balling it, I think your plenty strong. I wouldn't cut out for the plug boxes, that will weaken it. Just glue the boxes to the frame. Could go with angle for the legs. Save $ over pipe and not really lose a lot. If you want to stiffen it up a bit after you build it, you can add angle supports from the legs to the table top frame. If you need the adjustable feet, I'd use 3/4 or 1" hex head bolts. Weld the nut into the bottom of the leg and have the hex head as the foot. That way you can use a wrench to adjust. With the weight of that table, it may be a pain to do with fingers!
    For the top you could do it in sections. 5' x 10" wide, with a 1" gap between to use as clamping slots. Might find it cheaper to by like that or better yet find some crops!



    [/QUOTE]
    200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,129
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    I'm just a hobbyist, so take this with a grain of salt. But I would think the main consideration with sag is going to be the weight of the table itself, not so much the load of a fence section.

    I'll also throw out the idea that a piece of plate might not be ideal for fence work. It limits your clamping options. Why not make the top out of staggered pieces -- like 2" wide strips of plate -- with an inch gap between each one so that clamping is always easy? You could also make the top out of parallel lengths of 2" square tubing in the same fashion. But again, it depends on what type of fence patterns you're going to be using, and what you like to do in terms of a jig.

    It's probably more imortant to have a flat top than a thick one. Not a lot of pounding involved in most fence work.
    Jack Olsen
    My garage website

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    1
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    I am new here but not to welding. What I did with my table top was had the place that I bought it from break it 2 times long ways at 90 degrees 1 break up at the rear of the table top and 1 break down at the front of the table top about 3 to 4 inches each break. This not only adds lots of stength to your table it also saves your cloths and belly from rubbing on the front of the table on the sharp thin edge. I did mine this way about 15 years ago and it has remained perfectly flat and level without any center supports or frame work. I am thinking it was only 20 dollors extra for the 2 breaks well worth it to have it done at any cost. The break at the rear is also a great place to hang clamps etc. and you can also clamp to the up or down break for auto 90 degree angle. I hope this may help. max
    Last edited by max built; 11-16-2010 at 05:07 PM.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, CA
    Posts
    1,257
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    I'd swap the flat bar joists for a channel or better yet a rectangle tube. And I'd also go taller for stiffness sake. A 2x6x.120 rectangle tube is slightly lighter than the 4x.5 flat bar and over three times stiffer. Here is a link to a moment of inertia calculator for rectangle tube:

    http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...re_case_10.htm

    Fool around with the numbers to try to get the highest possible MOI, since the MOI is engineer speak for resistance to bending, you can set the inside dimensions to zero to see what solid flat bar will do.

    here's a chart for channel sections, for MOI look under the "Ixx" column: http://www.engineersedge.com/standar...properties.htm
    Last edited by fortyonethirty; 11-16-2010 at 06:19 PM.
    Ian Tanner

    Kawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Gladstone, MB
    Posts
    329
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    @fortyonethirty:

    Z, or section modulus, is what you are most interested in, as the MOI is only part of the picture. So the previous comparison of 2x6 hss and 4 x 1/2 flat bar is only 2 times as stiff, not 3 times.
    XMT 350 MPA
    Dynasty 280DX
    Suitcase 8RC / Optima
    Spoolmatic 30A
    Thermco Ar / C02 mixer
    Assorted O/A gear

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    210
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    Lots of great information here guys! Very happy with everyone's input. Drinking it all in and will revise my design accordingly.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, CA
    Posts
    1,257
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    BCRD, I disagree. According to the www.engineersedge.com website the calculation of deflection of a beam does not include the term Z (section modulus). It seems to me that section modulus has more to do with the ultimate load that the beam will support. If the OP plans to put an object on his table that might make a 2x6x.120 steel tube break, then he needs more qualified help than a web forum.
    Last edited by fortyonethirty; 11-16-2010 at 08:34 PM.
    Ian Tanner

    Kawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Okc,OK
    Posts
    234
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    I priced a 12'x5'x1/2" for a table top last week for $565.83 in okc, ok. I saw a post for a table on here, looks like the best table I have seen. Here is the link http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=26520
    I have also sent a message to the man who posted it asking if he would change anything now if he had to build it again...but no reply yet
    Travis

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Texas Near Dallas
    Posts
    1,074
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    Last time I bought 1/2 plate it was around $0.50 per pound. I think 1/2" plate is about 20lbs per square foot.
    12' x 5' * 20lbs * $0.50 = $600. So that's right in line with what lik2waterski said. I'm near Dallas, Tx so probably not too much price difference up in okc.

    Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1
    MM210
    MM Vintage
    ESAB miniarc161lts
    Lincoln AC225
    Victor O/A, Smith AW1A
    Cutmaster 81
    IR 2475N7.5FP
    Rage3
    Jancy USA101
    9" SB
    AEAD-200LE

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    2,069
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    jbyrd, I think the boys are getting a bit carried away with this. Just have a look at the $ of 2x6 tube and, once someone resuscitates you, you can save the $ and be happy with less. Unless you are building a bulldozer on the thing, 3/8 x 2" is probably plenty of the top frame. You don't need to go nuts welding the top top the top frame either. My top sections are 1" x 9 1/4" x 48" and I just did a 3/4" weld at each end. Enough to hold it in place and not so much to cause a warp. If you do a solid plate top, 4 1" welds will probably be tons. My four table legs are 1/4" x 3.5" x 3.5" angle, no braces, just welded to the top frame. Top frame is 1/4" x 3" x 3" angle. Three lengths, lengthwise and one length at each end. I think I made the top frame 40" x 8'.
    I got my materials for robbery cheap. They were off the books fook-ups Big outfit messed up the measurements and didn't realize until after my supplier had cut all 40+ of the 1" plates. They paid for them, then reordered the right size and paid again...... must be nice to be dumb and rich...... My supplier just wanted someone to get them out of his way. My top plates were $20/ pc!!! Uh, yes please!!!!!!! Glad to help them out!!!!!
    200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    155
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Need input on my welding table design

    I use my 4'x8' table for building fence but to be honest with you a seperate fence jig is a much more capable set up also your table top will require much less grinding of spatter and tacks. I made a jig with 3" legs, 3" rails and crossbars, then bolted different picket spacers to the top. I evenly spaced bars for where the rails of the fence would land and also the picket jigs. welded stops on one end so that the rails would be evenly spaced every single panel.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Page generated in 1,638,901,108.29783 seconds with 13 queries