Sounds like the same problem I had with mine.
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?408991-The-Invertec-v-350pro-has-landed&highlight=

 

Exactly!! i read every post you had on there last night! Did you ever some to a fixit conclusion or did you just junk it?

 

I actually sold it to a friend for $200.
Your not in Alaska are you?

If you noticed in the thread, there was links to supposed videos.
They were on my yt channel, and I deleted them.
I can upload them again if you want to see the exact error codes I was getting.

My best advice is to call Lincoln tech support.
Ask for Kevin.
He'll walk you thru pulling the cover, and testing voltages.

John

 

Look over the pcb the caps are mounted on. get out a mag glass and look real close.
Also wiggle the blue boxes on the pcb. If any of them move you will need to solder them back on the pcb. I had one machine the the blue box( capacitor) near the middle of the pcb was loose.
It caused imbalance problems and several codes.
The control pcb has a computer on it and if you have the right cords you can connect a lap top to it and use the Lincoln powerwave manager software to look inside.
One thing, has this unit been setting unused for a long time. If so, turn the power on and let it set. do not turn output on. Let the big capacitors warm up and get reconditioned. This might fix it. If this does but it doesn't hold , then replace the big caps.

 

Great info!! Ill look at thouse today when i get home!! And yes its say for atleast a year or so. It was his dads machine and after his buisness went under he got ahold of it after his dad died.

I also found the testing procedures for the machine!! woot woot!! Huge thanks for John and his previous thread! someone posted a picture of a diagram and that page had all the specs for it!

 

Is it going to make much of a difference weather or not I use a digital multimeter or and analoge? The charts say analoge. My first ready on the PCB is 557ohms... "Normal reading" should be 1000ohms+ starting off bad?.... And I'm suppose to get less than 100ohms switching + and he - and I'm getting around 221ohms.

Goin through them all there all about in that same location..

Advice? Blue boxes seem slightly wiggly but nothing major I would thing. Going to pull it out and check the back side.

 

What am i looking for where the Caps mount up to the PCB?

 

The one that caused me a problem is the one in your picture with the number sticker on it.
Look real close at the solder pad, look for cracks or a circle. If they move at all try re-soldering anyway. Then seal around them with at little clear lacquer.
Meters can make a difference. depends on what you are measuring. If it is straight resistance should read the same. if looking at a diode they will read different. Testing a diode with a digital meter you should use the the diode test function in the meter. Less than 100 and more than 1000 looks like an analog meter diode test. digital meter will read 0.4 (.01 to .07) and 1.5 to OL.
A weld diode will read 0.1 and small pcb mounted diode will read .3 to .7 in circuit.
Some of those tests have a parallel diode and resister.

 

This is the test im trying to do... Testing the resistance in the main Board. all i have currently is a normal multimeter.

 

So this is what im getting on both +204 -205 and +205 -204. This is on 2000k ohms setting on my meter.. Is this right or is this PCB fried? Put it back togeather to let her run for a while maybe 5-10min was doing good caps were getting up to about 196volts in each then started to throw codes agin... 33 37 43.

 

Here are some pics you might like of a Subaru I lifted years ago

 

that looks awesome!! love thouse bumpers! when i get this welder fixed ill post up some of my vehicals ive been lifting

Here are some pics you might like of a Subaru I lifted years ago
View attachment 1044671 View attachment 1044681 View attachment 1044691 View attachment 1044701 View attachment 1044721

 

Here's the video.
Sorry for the wait.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG6N0dd6_Tg

 

Exact same thing!! Just talked to Kevin were running through some diagnostics currently... not seeming prommising.. bluh...

 

Okay after talking to the non Kevin guy.. he had me go buy a Hz meter... then i call back to run the test on the board and there closed... East coast people... lol

Just got off the phone with Kevin this morning and he ran me through a diffrent test, im not getting the correct voltage from the input rectifier! Looking up parts price now.. lets home its cheap, would be nice to start welding this week!!!!


John is that one of the things that you came up to be bad?

 

Yes,
My input rectifier tested bad. 240vac going in, 50vdc coming out. It's supposed to be 350vdc coming out.
I was only getting 50vdc at cables 207 and 209 if I remember right.

 

The input rectifier isnt showing up on the catalog... wohoo.. atleast not for my model... any ideas?

 

When the board doesn't get 350vdc, it goes in to shutdown mode, which is err33, and then your other 3 codes, are direct response to shutdown mode.

When you power your machine on, the DC voltage coming from the input rectifier starts to fill the caps, and being there's not enough of the needed volts , it goes into shutdown.

Is that what you got from Kevin?

 

Yeah Kevin had me test that and said it should be 350vdc.. but only getting 220vdc... I gotta say Kevin is the best! Hes a genius! The other guy not so much... cost me 35$ for a new meter... lol

 

Hey john, i scraped off all the sylicone on the Rectofier and looked the part number up, looks like this is a very very common part! i can get it on amazon for 55$ and ebay for 45$ brand new.

 

Do you have the link ?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MODULE-...CTIFIER-MODULE-ORIGINAL-/261673493307?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cecf4a33b

This one is the cheapest and the fastest shipped

 

I'd buy one man.
$70 is peanut shells.

I'd try it.

 

Thats what im thinking! I already spent a lot getting no where 70$ aint nothing now lol. Thanks for your help John! Ill let you guy know how it goes!!

 

Got the new one in and was doing fine and welding good then it started throwing codes agin... FML.... Called them back and they said i should have replaced the little red cap looking things too (MOV's).. possibly caused it to go out... and thus taking out the switch board... Possibly...

 

Starting to not make sence... I dont see how if the MOV was bad how it could cause the recatfier to go bad that far.. only reason why the MOV is there is to prevent surges to the welder right?

 

If what i watched about checking Diods is correct. which ever leadeds you check, +- should show nothing and -+ should show something then its good... I think my old rectifier is good for some reason.. I think im going to call them back tomorrow and see whats the crap.... Theres gotta be something else why im not getting enough voltage.....

 

talked to Kevin agin this morning.. main board is a gonner.. ohms are reading low on one of the switch board test... well thats $2k for that.. looks like im getting a new macnine.. Looking at the POWER MIG® 350MP MIG Welder, seems like a pretty good multi purpose welder..

Anyone wanna buy this set up from me

Oh and Kevin is the best tech they have! ive talked to sevral of the other ones thye had and they were no help.. Kevin is the best!! His service has convinced me to stay with Lincoln!

 

oooooook... I kinda had a dream last night about this welder... true alway is good to sleep on a good problem.. found out my house wont power the new welder so that outa the quistion right now..

BUT!
When i was on the phone with Kevin, i was testing the Rectifier he said i should get 330-340vdc with thouse main wire off of the board. i was only getting 220vdc.

Now when i was only getting 220 with the wires off i was so stummped as why id only be missing 110vdc so then is when i woke up this morning i tested each outgoing terminal on the rectafier. boom each one was putting out about 113VDC times 3 being the amount that Kevin said that the rectifier should be putting out. He must have missunderstood the diagrams?? but this tells me its good? am i right?? Im going to go buy a analog meter today to test the main switch board the way the manual said to.. i think my auto dial on the digital ohms meter was messing me up a lot.

NO IDEA WHATS UP WITH THE UPSIdE DOWN PHOTOS... AND theres an exstra too..

 

Boy I REALLY WANT ONE OF THESE NEW INVERTER COMPUTERIZED WELDERS!!

 

(sorry for your troubles, but this bears out what I've always said about this modern crap)

 

Yeah dont feel great about this modern crap either lol....


I have it down below on the main green ground below. Yes i get 220AC 110 from each main wire coming from the main switch.

Doing the Diode test on the rectafier, showed good. once way was around .3 and the other was OL on all of them.

I went down and got an analog meter last night and started testing it. First one is supose to be 1000ohms+ my meter came out to be about 4000ohm. But then i did the reverce test and suppose to be less than 100 ohms and i shot up to 10,000 and keeps climbing slowly... Granted all of my PCB connection test show the same thing. And yes i zeroed the meter. lol.. i think shes toast.

were is the other meter probe touching? On the side with the red MOVs you should measure terminal to terminal 220vac to 245vac. Your line voltage at the wall. If you are connected to single phase power the one set will measure about half. Change meter to DC and measure the three terminals on the other side. With nothing else connected to the diodes, 230vac in will measure about 225vdc out. two terminals will read zero because they are connected together. See the diagram on the side of the diode block. Now if you reconnect all the wires in the right places. With reconnect switch in 230 volts. The two DC terminals (wires 209 and 207) should read Line voltage times 1.414 (230vac x 1.414) = 325.22vdc each of the 4 caps should read 1/2 or 162.61vdc. if caps read 81.25 the reconnect is still in 460v.
Your meter has a diode test function. use it not the straight ohm. Your meter display should read 0.00 and a diode symbol should display. when reading a diode it will read 0.200 to 0.700,
0.300 to 0.400 most of the time. reverse leads and it will read 1.4 to OL. The weld diodes will test 0.100. diodes are many parallel diodes.
If even just an ohm test and all the wires removed from the switch pcb. and you get a zero ohm reading. You have a shorted pcb. In ohms a meter uses low voltage for testing. The diode test function uses a higher voltage and turns the diodes on. 0.400 in diode could also read 20,000 ohms in ohms. using a digital meter. Both would be a good reading.
Old analog meters used high test voltage and none were the same. That's why the test chart is set up the way it is.

Thats my plan i got the hole set up on CL now for 800$. the LN25 has been rebuild with after market motor and a little box of gooddies with it.. Looks like i gotta find a new place that i can run a new machine with that 80amp breaker... lol

I wish you the best of luck with this. If nothing else, you aren't completely out of luck. A good used LN 25 will bring $450-800, some times more, depending on condition, age and where you are located. 50' of leads has a value as well. If you paid $700 for the whole thing, you may be able to at least get most if not all your money back if you choose to part it all out. You may even manage to clear a small profit. Dump the power source " as is, for parts" on CL/ebay for $300-350 and see if anyone bites, and then sell the LN 25 cleaned up well for $650-700 reasonably easy.


The LN 25 and 50' of leads has a decent value on it's own, so you may not want to sell them right away. All you really need is a CV capable power source to run that VS style feeder. Since it's a VS style feeder, brand won't matter as much like it can with shop style feeders, Miller or Lincoln would work.

 

were is the other meter probe touching? On the side with the red MOVs you should measure terminal to terminal 220vac to 245vac. Your line voltage at the wall. If you are connected to single phase power the one set will measure about half. Change meter to DC and measure the three terminals on the other side. With nothing else connected to the diodes, 230vac in will measure about 225vdc out. two terminals will read zero because they are connected together. See the diagram on the side of the diode block. Now if you reconnect all the wires in the right places. With reconnect switch in 230 volts. The two DC terminals (wires 209 and 207) should read Line voltage times 1.414 (230vac x 1.414) = 325.22vdc each of the 4 caps should read 1/2 or 162.61vdc. if caps read 81.25 the reconnect is still in 460v.
Your meter has a diode test function. use it not the straight ohm. Your meter display should read 0.00 and a diode symbol should display. when reading a diode it will read 0.200 to 0.700,
0.300 to 0.400 most of the time. reverse leads and it will read 1.4 to OL. The weld diodes will test 0.100. diodes are many parallel diodes.
If even just an ohm test and all the wires removed from the switch pcb. and you get a zero ohm reading. You have a shorted pcb. In ohms a meter uses low voltage for testing. The diode test function uses a higher voltage and turns the diodes on. 0.400 in diode could also read 20,000 ohms in ohms. using a digital meter. Both would be a good reading.
Old analog meters used high test voltage and none were the same. That's why the test chart is set up the way it is.

 

If you look at both your meters they both have a diode test setting.
Looks like an arrow pointing at a wall.