Life of a 69 redface

[BYW200]

I'm not shure if this will help out on your wiring but it's what i have.

[kuzineddie]

Although it doesn't follow any standard wiring logic, the Cable's remote is pretty straight forward and presuming you're using their pigtail, the black and green wires just go to either side of the auxiliary power outlet and the white wire (from connector ground terminal) goes to the remote side of REMOTE/LOCAL selector switch. The blue wire from the main shunt coils goes to the center terminal of the LOCAL/REMOTE switch and a new wire runs from the panel rheostat where the blue wire was to the local side of the LOCAL/REMOTE switch.

I will try to verify this tomorrow if I can find some time. I appreciate you time and assistance!

[duaneb55]

From your photos I see you're using an isolated ground auxiliary power receptacle which I presume is also serving for your remote.

Where is the white wire coming from that is connected to the top (local) terminal of the REMOTE/LOCAL switch shown in post #41?

[kuzineddie]

From your photos I see you're using an isolated ground auxiliary power receptacle which I presume is also serving for your remote.

Where is the white wire coming from that is connected to the top (local) terminal of the REMOTE/LOCAL switch shown in post #41?

The white wire is connected to ground side on the receptacle

[kuzineddie]

I'm not shure if this will help out on your wiring but it's what i have.

The remote setup changes things somewhat. I decided to use the receptacle instead of the pigtail after I ordered and received the pigtail! Lol

[duaneb55]

Using the receptacle makes perfect sense and using the pigtail just leaves the panel receptacle available when a remote is used if that's what one wants or feels they need.


You have the black(?) wire from the panel rheostat and white wire for the remote reversed on your REMOTE/LOCAL switch. Could verify by switching to REMOTE and it should weld.

[kuzineddie]

Using the receptacle makes perfect sense and using the pigtail just leaves the panel receptacle available when a remote is used if that's what one wants or feels they need.


You have the black(?) wire from the panel rheostat and white wire for the remote reversed on your REMOTE/LOCAL switch. Could verify by switching to REMOTE and it should weld.

Thanks Duane! I will try to reverse the wires tomorrow and give it a try. No shop time today. I will let you know how it turns out. I will work on points and possible mag replacement too!

[kuzineddie]

Well I swapped the two wires and fired her up, held my breath and............she welds!!!!!!!!!! You are the man Duane Thanks so much!

No time to work on the magneto until Thursday looks like. A little closer

[kuzineddie]

I pulled the FM magneto from the parts machine tonight. It needs rotor, points and rotor cap at minimum.

I removed the FM magneto to get a good check on the points gap. The gap was at .027 with a bad rotor. The rotor cap looked good. I thought I had replaced the points and rotor but I guess not, it's only been 3 yrs ago???.

So here is my plan, buy a new rotor and points tomorrow and install best parts on the parts machine magneto. This would minimize chance of wrong degreed impulse coupler concern and allow for proper setting of points.

What will be the difference of .015, .020 & .027 points gap with regards to not being able to set the timing as discussed earlier. Trying to understand so I can pass this info on to Jr!

.020 is what I need correct?

[duaneb55]

.015" on the mag points for the Continental. The .020" I told you earlier would be for the distributor ignition.

Sorry for the bad info.

[kuzineddie]

Machine update: I received the new mag parts and installed in the spare mag and was able to get the timing issue resolved, all seems good there.

I also ordered new brushes from Stumpf's and decided to tackle that job today.

PROBLEM!

I first seated each set of armature brushes with 320 grit paper. I pulled the plugs and then rotated the machine by hand until the the brushes were in contact for about three revolutions. I cleaned the sand paper after each contact revolution. I then moved to 1000 grit and repeated the process. All brushes were then sprayed with electric contact cleaner and wiped clean and then reinstalled. Then followed up with exciter armature brushes in same fashion.

After the brushes were reinstalled, I cranked the machine to check for brush arcing and voltage. There was no arcing and no voltage! No voltage at lead lugs or receptacle. I rechecked all connections with no problems noted that I could see. Frustration and real job required that I turn the lights out and return another day.

Any ideas on what the problem may be? I had voltage before the brush change.

[Adam Arc]

No volts at the outlet, start at the exciter brushes for output then follow from there. No exciter volts no welding


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[duaneb55]

Can't think of why it would need it seeing as it was welding less than 2 weeks ago but try flashing it by applying 12VDC to the exciter brush leads for a couple seconds. Lift and insulate one of the exciter brushes from the armature before flashing. Apply (+) to the right brush and (-) to the left.


I just fired up a short hood yesterday that's been apart for several months including the exciter coils removed and the exciter woke right up without flashing so I don't know why yours would need it but if you don't have any voltage at the exciter brushes then that would be the next step. Either that or checking for proper exciter coil resistance with the coil leads disconnected from the holder lead posts.

If you get voltage at the exciter brushes but nothing at the DC power receptacle then you've got an open in the series coils circuit (black and red wires).

[BYW200]

Hello kuzineddie, How is the Redface coming along?

[kuzineddie]

Hello kuzineddie, How is the Redface coming along?

I haven't had a chance to work on it much lately with work,other projects and family time. I did get it welding again though. After flashing the field and no luck, I put the commutator stone(white) on the exciter armature and it came back to life! I'm not sure if my brush seating method left a film on the brushes or the armature. I used a red/brown stone that was given to originally during the brush seating so ???????.

I still need to refit the doors, paint a few more parts and reinstall the air breather. I'm close though. I will try to update within the next few weeks. Thanks for asking!

[72domoco]

Looks AWESOME!!! This is exactly what I want to do!

[kuzineddie]

Finally had some time to fit the doors back on to the machine. Just a little more tweaking and they are done! My son put about 45 minutes on it today and he could not believe how nice it laid down 7018, he's only 13 yrs old!

[7A749]

It looks awesome and I'm glad to hear it's working good too!!

[kuzineddie]

It looks awesome and I'm glad to hear it's working good too!!

Thanks Steve! It seems to have been worth the effort

[Brob3R]

kuzineddie awesome build man! Where did you get the steal braided line for the oil filter and oil pressure gauge?

[kuzineddie]

Thank you brob3r! The lines were purchased off the shelf from a local business. If you can't find them, PM me and I will check & see if they will ship.

[Ea$y Money]

The initial plan was to get the machine to run again so I could see what repairs would be needed. The fuel system was a major one!

Working on an SA 250 and I would love to hear more about how you did the fuel tank. I thought about finding someone to steam clean it... not sure anyone still does that anymore. I have more time than money and don't mind putting some elbow grease into it. Awesome job!

[kuzineddie]

Thanks Easy! Here is a thread on the tank. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...sa200-gas-tank