What are larger drill presses used for?

[Lanse]

So what exactly can a big drill press like this do that a much smaller floor model could not? What is something like this typically used for?

Background:
> Replacing $300 beater soon
>Looking at $600-$1000 models
>This is $1,850 and gear driven, could swing the upcharge if I thought I'd use its potential added capabilities someday, since I dont wanna buy another drill press ever if I can avoid it

I generally use a lot of hole saws in mild steel (3/4-2.5" holes, and twist bits (up to 1.5"), wouldnt mind having a little extra power behind things. I'm tired of going super slow through holes, and stalling my current press out using hole saws unless I use SUPER light pressure. I'd like to use my mag drill's annular cutters as well if possible

[DSW]

Look at the drill speeds. Many smaller drill presses run quite fast as they are designed for wood. Often they are just taller versions of bench top models. Same head but on a taller shaft so you can use them as free standing vs on a bench. Bigger beefier ones are often designed for metal and run at really slow speeds for bigger bits.

[WyoRoy]

Spending that amount...look for power feed.

[turbocobra]

Turning large drill bits, annular cutters, hole saws, countersink bits require much more torque and rigidity, the more industrial type machines will be better equiped for drilling larger diameter holes in thick steel. That grizzly unit like a lot like the l the baliegh industrial gear drive drill press

[Dualie]

Bigger drills are for bigger drill bits. Low RPM and industrial usage designed with beefier parts and bearings.

[M J D]

I would look into an Ellis 9400 if set on buying new

[Iain P]

Do it! A gear head drill or an old camel back drill press is the only way to go for big holes. For one thing the column is large enough and the table support is beefy enough that it won't flex when putting a lot of pressure on large twist bits, and you can put as much down pressure as you want on them since it won't stall out (it might break the bit but it won't stall).

[Chris T.]

Not only will a larger drill press allow you to use all the tools mentioned above but I like the ability to power tap which the more rigid machines allow you to do. We have a round column mill drill at work that is pretty much that drill with an x-y table. While not the best milling machine, it's awesome for turning drills and taps that our belt drive Bridgeport will not think of doing. It also appears that machine has a face mounted depth stop which on our mill drill contains a limit switch that reverses the spindle when the set depth is reached.

[Meltedmetal]

Check the throat depth as well. A press that is 7" post to center can't reach the center of a 16" square. Just depends what you plan to do.

[7A749]

Personally, I would skip the drill press deal and go straight to a mill. You can get into a decent used Bridgeport or quality clone for what you're looking to spend on a good drill press. Sure, you'll have some increased weight and size, but what you can do with a mill is almost limitless, and second in versatility only to a lathe.

Most are three phase, but a $75 static phase converter from WNY Converters and five minute installation, you're in business. I've owned big drill presses, and after buying my mill 15 years ago, they just sat and collected dust.

All the tooling on a mill is standardized to its spindle taper and combinations infinite. You can use annular cutters, drills and hole saws with ease and repeatibility. Then switch to an end mill and put slots, pockets, steps into the workpiece. Key way cutters, dovetail mills, ball end mills, shell mills create an array of operations, all under the umbrella of one machine.

Seriously Lanse, I would look into it. Since you're at a point where this has become a means of income for you, skip screwing around and get a machine that will serve you for years to come, and hold its value well. I paid a grand for my Wells Index in 2000. I could sell it for more than I paid for it today, and sell the extra tooling I have accumulated for it separately and make a nice profit. I've seen as well as bought Bridgeports for under $1500 in good condition, one for $600 and it was ready to go to work. Putting a cross slide table on a drill press works, but it's not very rigid and the extra expense easily justifies spending a little more for a real mill.

If you need to turn really big drills, that's another story, but I've tapped 3/4"-10 on mine with no problem and cut some pretty big holes with cutters and even bits.

That's what I would do anyways.

IMHO of course

[CEP]

Personally, I would skip the drill press deal and go straight to a mill.

Me too. Actually the mill is the cheap part, it’s all the crap you have to have that costs so much!

[doojus]

Personally, I would skip the drill press deal and go straight to a mill.

Came here to post this.

[vwguy3]

[QUOTE=7A749;5955241]I would skip the drill press deal and go straight to a mill. [QUOTE]

I'll join the dog pile

[Oldendum]

On smaller knee mills, watch out for the drilling capacity, especially with power feed. Bridgeport Series 1 is only rated for 3/4" in mild steel. That's why they make the big radial drills for drilling 1" and up.

[johnrbauer]

If you don't want to go with Bridgeport mill get a radial arm drill takes up a little more room but you could do some serious drilling then I would love to have one.

[7A749]

On smaller knee mills, watch out for the drilling capacity, especially with power feed. Bridgeport Series 1 is only rated for 3/4" in mild steel. That's why they make the big radial drills for drilling 1" and up.

Somehow, I don't see Lanse putting a radial under his carport

Last I knew, he had a basic cement pad with a steel prefab carport very similar to mine.

Gonna need some serious footing for a big drill. I wouldn't roll one into my carport

[vwguy3]

On smaller knee mills, watch out for the drilling capacity, especially with power feed. Bridgeport Series 1 is only rated for 3/4" in mild steel. That's why they make the big radial drills for drilling 1" and up.

Boring head

Obviously any machine has it's limitations so we may be throwing out ideas based on OUR needs and not what Lanse will be doing.

[Oldendum]

Mo bigga, mo betta.

[7A749]

I want one!

A local press repair place had a nice older Giddings & Lewis boring mill they ended up selling for like $3500.

It was a good sized machine, I would have bought it in a second if I had a place to put it.

[Econdron]

I've got a large knee type mill, and a "large" drill press. Drill press is much faster to configure for large or odd shaped parts without messing up the setup on the mill. Personally, I think they both have a place in any shop. If it's a hobby shop, or "work after real job" kind of shop, go straight to the mill. But if time is a factor, get both. Bench top drill presses are great for wood. That's it.

Personally, I don't like any thing Grizzly. Keep an eye out on Craigslist for an older, good drill press. Variable speed drive is also a huge plus!

CEP, how much Chinese equipment can you shove in one corner??

[Oldendum]

I think Carlton and American Pacemaker were the Cadillacs of radial drills. Something about the quill/bearing setup that made them better for boring/tapping than some others.

[CEP]

CEP, how much Chinese equipment can you shove in one corner??

Oh I got more, just not in that corner is all.

[DSW]

Mo bigga, mo betta.

Man what's that a 6" twist drill?

[Oldendum]

Man what's that a 6" twist drill?

Per the caption, 5". 50 H.P. motor. Enough to put a twist in your knickers.

[Lis2323]

Lanse, whatever you do, don't get rid of your old drill press. It'll be worth more to you to have around than whatever money you could get for it.
Trust me.