Table Saw Score

[whtbaron]

Yep, I was looking at that, and this one can swivel 90 degrees front and back. The only limitation to how far you can get into the sheet is the depth of the throat, which is why I was thinking about moving the wooden stop closer to the inside limit of the blade movement. As Ezduzit says, there are some jobs where you need to get a way out into the sheet, like ripping a 4x8 into 2 4x4 squares when that throat will be a limiting factor. I'll have to do some measuring, it might actually be possible to get into it by 2' from either side if it's set up right.

[ezduzit]

The radial arm saw is very awkward at ripping, something the table saw does very well.

[whtbaron]

Yea...only 20" of travel... too bad they didn't make that arm 4" longer. Most of my work will be shorter cuts anyway.

[DSW]

Most will usually allow you to get 24" for rips. Like you say you may have to change the table back stop. I wish I hadn't just sold my one radial arm saw. The table showed very clearly how you could change the back stop.

I'll agree it's awkward to rip with one. Not my 1st choice to do that. But it is possible if you don't have a table saw.

I always found them great with dado cutters. If you need to do lap joints, dados for shelves, it's a whole lot easier than using a router or saw cuts and chisels. You can make some really rigid framing by half lapping boards and diagonals. I used one radial arm saw to do inletted 2x4 diagonal bracing for one job. The framer was old school. He'd lay out the studs and mark the angles, then I'd blast out the material with the dado cutter on the radial arm saw. When done all the joints were cabinet grade tight where you had to drive the diagonals in with a mallet, but it's one of the stoutest walls I've ever seen.

[ezduzit]

Yeah, there is one fence position which allows the blade to live behind the fence until you are ready to make the crosscut. Then there is a rearward position that allows ripping to the center of a 48" panel.

[walker]

They also like to bite on heavy cuts and the head walks forward, making them great finger choppers. Always be aware of where your hands are.

[Norcal01]

You see 220V on cheap ChiCom or Euro trash, everyone who builds decent stuff at least bothers to send equipment intended for the market and 220 has not been used in the USA in around 70 years, sorry I just have a bad attitude because of dealing with equipment that cannot handle the voltages supplied by US power companies, the radial arm saw will do just fine on 240 volts, & was a great deal.


Be real careful when using a RAS, ripping can be real dangerous, still makes me shudder that I used a dado blade in a RAS to dado the edge of a redwood 2X4, been 35+ years since, but it's a great lesson on what not to do. BTW, still have all my fingers, that stunt could have cost me them.

[Willie B]

Through manufacturing organizations they agree to a tolerance of 10%+ or-. 10% of 220 is 22 volts. I'm not clear how limited Chinese motors are in voltage ranges. Some loss will occur in the journey from transformer to saw. Use a long cord if too high.

[whtbaron]

Since I live in a rural area I decided to check my voltages just to see how far it's off. One cheapy meter said 220, the other read 240 (both cheap, same make....gotta quit buying that ****) so if they are both out by 10% that "probably" puts me close to 230. Most of my building grounds are getting over 30 yrs old and I'm thinking it's time to put some new ones in because of the rust coatings they get on them. I know one is poor because I can drop the welder ground on the angle iron at the door and get sparks so it will be done for sure, and I'm thinking the 2 houses, the heated shop and maybe even the yard pole will get new ones too. It must be having an effect on my hydro bill.

[WyoRoy]

whtbaron, can you swivel the workhead/motor around so the blade faces outward to gain the needed extension to cut to the middle of a 4' X 8' piece of sheeting? You will have to replace/add to the present table as I don't see enough depth on the one you have now, but by placing the blade to the outside of the table and feeding the sheeting instead of using the radial arm to feed you should be able to get your needed width. Remember not to climb cut just like on an older non-ballscrew equipped milling machine...for the same reason. While radial arm saws are becoming the high button shoes of woodworking due to power miter saws, some with radial action themselves, I find there isn't a better tool to use than a radial arm equipped with an accessory power planer head for doing rough leveling on solid casework tops.............

[whtbaron]

It can swivel off to the side but for the rare times that I will be ripping large sheets, I'm beginning to think my old Skil saw would probably be less hassle. In fact, this has me thinking about another project. Maybe a sawhorse the holds an entire sheet at the corners with a saw on a track that could be moved anywhere within the boundaries of the "sawhorse".

[Boostinjdm]

It can swivel off to the side but for the rare times that I will be ripping large sheets, I'm beginning to think my old Skil saw would probably be less hassle. In fact, this has me thinking about another project. Maybe a sawhorse the holds an entire sheet at the corners with a saw on a track that could be moved anywhere within the boundaries of the "sawhorse".

Much more simple to memorize you blade offset and just use an 8' straight edge clamped at each end. I piece of 1/4" x 3" aluminum makes a great straight edge.

If you do a lot of ripping, used table saws are cheap. I see them all the time for $50. I actually paid $40 for mine.

[Willie B]

There are straight edges that clamp quickly to sheet goods so you can make a clean cut with a circular saw. Those I've seen are 53" down or 104" down.

[DSW]

If you rip a lot of sheets, a Festool track saw is well worth your money. I've come really close a couple of times to investing in one, and if I ever get a job that requires a lot of exact cuts on sheet goods, that's the way I'll go. I've used a friends on occasion and there is just no comparision to just about anything else as far as precision and accuracy until you get up to industrial table saws with in and out feed tables.


I make do with one of those 54" clamp guides and a 9' straight edge and some clamps with my good trim saw. On occasion I've ripped my own guide from finish ply etc. The nice thing about doing that is that you cut right thru the base ply with the saw once you glue and screw down your guide strip, and the edge of your guide is your exact cut edge. Just remember that your saw cut is always on the side that shows, so you have to figure in the saw kerf to the measurement if you cut material to the off side of your guide for what ever reason. Other wise if your "good" piece is under the guide, you line up the edge of the guide with the measurements, clamp it down and make your cut.

[WyoRoy]

If you rip a lot of sheets, a Festool track saw is well worth your money. I've come really close a couple of times to investing in one, and if I ever get a job that requires a lot of exact cuts on sheet goods, that's the way I'll go. I've used a friends on occasion and there is just no comparision to just about anything else as far as precision and accuracy until you get up to industrial table saws with in and out feed tables.


I make do with one of those 54" clamp guides and a 9' straight edge and some clamps with my good trim saw. On occasion I've ripped my own guide from finish ply etc. The nice thing about doing that is that you cut right thru the base ply with the saw once you glue and screw down your guide strip, and the edge of your guide is your exact cut edge. Just remember that your saw cut is always on the side that shows, so you have to figure in the saw kerf to the measurement if you cut material to the off side of your guide for what ever reason. Other wise if your "good" piece is under the guide, you line up the edge of the guide with the measurements, clamp it down and make your cut.

I've looked at those track saws by Festool and several other manufacturers. Unfortunately, as a hobbyist, I'm like you and waiting for the day, if it ever comes, when it would be worth spending that amount of money for one. My Craftsman radial arm saw sits forlorn and none too loved up in the attic of the shop because I use my Unisaw and/or a sliding compound miter saw instead. I'd sell it, but they don't bring much on the used market these days PLUS I might come up with a dire need for it some day...doubtful, but every other time I've sold or given a tool away the dire needs have always come jumping out of the woodwork. Lo-buck to hi-buck the best saw for sheet goods I ever used was when I was working for a remodel carpenter down in Wichita, KS in my 20s who had an old store front shop with a (I believe...that's a lotta years back) Stanley (might have been a Craftsman too) table top saw mounted flush with an 8' outfeed table and a 4' side table on each side of the saw all topped with a short knap outdoor carpet to keep the sheet good looking their best. Unless I hit the lottery...gotta buy some tickets one of these days...Festool or maybe a Milwaukee panel saw will have to take a backseat to a clamp on straight edge.

BTW, I use one of those straight edge/clamps for crosscut, but does any company manufacture a model that will clamp lengthwise on a 4' X 8' for rip cuts? I know about...and bought before tossing... the 2-piece 8' guides that use two c-clamps.

EDIT: Never mind on the 8'+ clamp on guide. Just found them on Amazon and they're almost half the price of a Makita track saw. May be time to mill up a saw plate and rollers to use on an aluminum guide like Boostinjdm posted.

[ezduzit]

Found my Festool track saw on c/l for $350. It has revolutionized my shop.

[whtbaron]

I like the riving knife on the Festool... that looks like a great addition for cutting sheets. Still looking on pondering, and it is raining today.... too bad I need to see the accountants first...

[ezduzit]

The Festool system is worth far more than its outrageous price.

[Farmerboy]

Yea...only 20" of travel... too bad they didn't make that arm 4" longer. Most of my work will be shorter cuts anyway.

If it was 24 you would say why not 28"

the saw head should turn so the blade is 24" from the fence or there is a place to slide a 4" section on the table to move the fence back so one can rip a 48 sheet of ply wood, (that setting not for cross cutting)

[DSW]

The Festool system is worth far more than its outrageous price.

Only real down side I saw to the Festool saws was it took an "odd" blade. Once the woodworking store in my area closed that sold Festool, if I needed a blade on short notice, I was out of luck.

For years I ran one of those upright panel saws. If they were in good shape they were great. I'd love to get one one of these days for the shop if I locate a used one some where. I missed out on several years ago when I lived in an apartment when one of the big lumber chains in our area closed up all their locations and sold off their saws. The 16" radial arm they had would have been nice as well. It would cut almost 18" straight out.

[ezduzit]

Since I got the Festool I haven't used my vertical panel saw. And it is unbeatable for straightening an edge on rough lumber. No need to clamp.