ReplyCheck out MrPete222 (tubalcain) on Youtube. He's got a lot of basic videos on lathe stuff that may be of help to you. I think one video deals with the cross slide. but it's been a while since I viewed that one.
https://www.youtube.com/user/mrpete222
Solderer
Hi guys,
First timer here. Just picked up a Craftsman lathe, that I THINK is one of the 101 re-branded Atlas lathes? Bought it for dirt cheap, included a table, and a drawer full of different items. The machine works fine, except, the motor doesn't have enough torque to turn the automation that allows it to thread. I have to bump start the lathe (when the threading gears are disengaged) with my hand. Nothing is bent, but nearly every bolt is loose so it jumps around like as if it had a bent pulley. It needs a restoration, which I hope to get to after I use it for a few quickie jobs. So my immediate plans are do clean it, lubricate it and fix anything that needs immediate fixing.
My first question is, can I wash it with degreaser while it's still together? I know wetting the motor and starting it could cause damage, but will I dry out anything I'm unaware of?
My second question is, where should I make sure to lubricate after a wash? I understand wetting the bed with oil, the oil fill on the main bearing is easy to see, two oil screws on the top of the cross slide and the lead screw, but where else? Also, is 20WT oil acceptable on bearings, etc. and grease on essentially anything with teeth?
I'm hoping with everything tight, check on the wiring of the motor and removing all of the old grease, it'll have less resistance and it'll thread. Even if that's not true, it won't hurt it to clean it and lubricate.
Also, I made the stupid mistake of running the tool post too far down the cross slide and it must have fell out of the threads. Is that a hard fix?
Last edited by VandelayIndustries; 08-17-2015 at 09:53 PM.
Moderator
Check out MrPete222 (tubalcain) on Youtube. He's got a lot of basic videos on lathe stuff that may be of help to you. I think one video deals with the cross slide. but it's been a while since I viewed that one.
https://www.youtube.com/user/mrpete222
.
No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth!
Ronald Reagan
WeldingWeb Tradesman
Pull the belt off and test the motor by itself. If it's sluggish I'm thinking bearings. I see what looks like a zirk fitting on the drive end there, maybe, which would indicate that it's not a sealed bearing. I've changed out bearings on many many motors. It's not difficult at all. Mark the end bells so that you can put the motor back together exactly the way it is now then take out all the through bolts and press the bearings out. There will almost certainly be a number on each one. The drive end bearing might be a little bigger. Now call this outfit: http://www.accuratebearing.com Tell her you are a member of Old Woodworking Machinery forum and that you need a couple of bearings. She'll take care of you. They don't make any money off these little orders so don't be a pest and don't give her a bunch of dimensions. She is NOT equipped to sell that way. She needs a number. Now, there's a centrifugal switch in there too that cuts out the capacitor when the motor comes up to speed. Make sure that it is working right and not all gummed up. Clean it. Granger sells all sorts of motor capacitors. Or Eflea. There are no brushes or other contact points in the motor other than the centrifugal switch. If it runs now it is repairable.
Dan
I hope that when i'm dead and gone, people will remember me and think; "Boy, that guy sure owed me a lot of money!"
WeldingWeb Artisan
You should be able to pull the tool post back and carefully restart the thread. If it is to tight loosen the gib screws and readjust later as required.Originally Posted by VandelayIndustries
---Meltedmetal
WeldingWeb Artisan
It is an Atlas. The change gears are a die cast zinc material called Zamac and it will break if you look at it wrong.
I would pull the change gears and was them in mineral spirits then was the rest of the machine with degreaser. After degreasing blow if off with compressed air then oil the way, lead screw and anything that looks precision(cannot believe I am saying that about an Atlas with a straight face).
As far as restoration I would clean it up and use it until you find a V way lathe.......a flat way Atlas is better than no lathe but not by much.
WeldingWeb Craftsman
That's an Atlas lathe, looks like a TH model. Mine is a TH1054 (10 inch swing, 54"bed length). I have had mine for about 20 years now, and it has done almost everything I needed it to. If you are careful, and you learn about "your" lathe's quirks, it will be a good investment.
Solderer
Hey thanks! I just assumed the bearing only needed to be replaced if there was play in the pulley, but that makes sense. When you say they need a number not dimensions, what number? One stamped on the bearing?
WeldingWeb Tradesman
Yes. She'll know the specification just from that number though you may not get the same number back.
I see by closer examination that what I thought might be a zirk fitting is in fact some sort of clamp. Why it's there I don't know.
Dan
I hope that when i'm dead and gone, people will remember me and think; "Boy, that guy sure owed me a lot of money!"
WeldingWeb Artisan
Clean all the grease off the gears on the headstock side of your lathe and re-lubricate with oil instead of grease. Grease is a swarf magnet and will cause premature wear to the machine from the swarf held in suspension by the grease. Buy yourself a quart of way oil, or whatever oil Atlas recommends, and liberally coat all moving parts and the ways.
Lincoln PrecisionTig 275
Miller 251
Miller DialArc 250
Bridgeport mill
Hossfeld bender & dies
Logan shaper
Jet 14 X 40 lathe
South Bend 9" 'C'
Hypertherm 900
Ellis 3000 band saw
21"Royersford Excelsior
Two shops, still too many tools.
WeldingWeb Apprentice
If you can find the manual for the lathe online it will tell you where and with what to lubricate your lathe.
Lincoln 210 MP
Harbor Freight Plasma
WeldingWeb Foreman
Check this out:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222
(I happen to own a Craftsman/Clausing lathe)
Last edited by cornemuse; 08-19-2015 at 10:09 AM. Reason: feng shui
What is the sound of one knee jerking?
Solderer
It is a fitting, not a zirk, but design dot add oil to the bearing. It's not so much a bearing as it is a tiny race/sleeve bearing with a slot for oil to be added, but it doesn't feature any numbers. I've managed to tear it up and had to push it out. Any suggestions on replacing it? I have a couple options from Mc-Mastercar for bronze sleeve bushings, but they're not exact to the measurements I have.
WeldingWeb Tradesman
uh oh. Wow. That's an old motor. I have rebuilt induction repulsion motors from the '30s that had ball bearings. What are the dimensions of the shaft and the "race" or bearing outside diameter? Is it flanged or straight? Most of these old bearings are even fractions of a sort. Nothing to the 10/thousands here.
Dan
I hope that when i'm dead and gone, people will remember me and think; "Boy, that guy sure owed me a lot of money!"
Solderer
The best I could tell is it's a straight .475 ID and .575 OD, but I'm hoping I'm off some how because that's not very common. I have a couple close options from Mc-Mastercarr as they were only a couple bucks I went ahead and ordered them.
WeldingWeb Foreman
Either one of these sites has loads of info also. Each has a sub-forum on Atlas/Craftsman. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/ http://www.machinistweb.com/forum/
Solderer
After you get it all cleaned up I suggest you replace that motor start cap. Probably worth the money for the best startup you can get if it threads from a dead start. By the way...congrats on that purchase regardless of quality. A fine addition. One other thing. It is probably not a good idea to plug that motor. I see it has a mech reversing switch. Might bust a gear since they are pot metal. BTY, "plugging" means reversing that switch without allowing the motor to come to a stop (0 rpm) in case you didn't know. Enjoy!
Last edited by Seaguy; 08-21-2015 at 09:33 AM.
Solderer
Now I don't think it was the bearing all along, but the starter. It still, with the motor simply floating on one bearing won't start on it's own. I'm a little in over my head now and need it to start cutting next week. I'm going to break down and simply replace the motor, about $100 for a new motor, but now my question is replace it with a 1/3-hp motor (which is what it has on it already), or a 1/2-hp motor? There's only about a $15 difference.
Posting Permissions
