How to Properly Crimp 1/0 ultra flex cable ?

[Jonath108]

Hi everyone,
Very disappointed with my Temco Hammer crimper. Does not make a tight crimp no matter how many times I hit it with my 3 lb drilling hammer.
What’s the secret to a Quality Crimp on this ultra fine stranded welding cable ?
Thanks in advance

[12V71]

Hi everyone,
Very disappointed with my Temco Hammer crimper. Does not make a tight crimp no matter how many times I hit it with my 3 lb drilling hammer.
What’s the secret to a Quality Crimp on this ultra fine stranded welding cable ?
Thanks in advance

A bigger hammer... I have a very similar crimper on every truck for field repairs and have had no issues. In the shop I use one in the 55 ton hydraulic press. I also like to use the Tweco lugs with the extended barrel with room for two crimps.
Are you having pull outs or does it just not "look right"? On real fine stranded stuff sometimes a lug one size smaller will work better.

[Jonath108]

A bigger hammer... I have a very similar crimper on every truck for field repairs and have had no issues. In the shop I use one in the 55 ton hydraulic press. I also like to use the Tweco lugs with the extended barrel with room for two crimps.
Are you having pull outs or does it just not "look right"? On real fine stranded stuff sometimes a lug one size smaller will work better.

Thank you,
I am able to pull the cable out with not much force. I am using long barrel 1/0-2/0 copper lugs. I do put double crimps as well.
I do not have much room when I push the bare multi stranded wire into the lug. I am also getting grooves at the underside of the lug from the Temco hammer crimp tool. I am not sure if that is also a problem.

[smithdoor]

I do not crimp.
I only solder for good condition at ampage.

Dave

Hi everyone,
Very disappointed with my Temco Hammer crimper. Does not make a tight crimp no matter how many times I hit it with my 3 lb drilling hammer.
What’s the secret to a Quality Crimp on this ultra fine stranded welding cable ?
Thanks in advance

[12V71]

Thank you,
I am able to pull the cable out with not much force. I am using long barrel 1/0-2/0 copper lugs. I do put double crimps as well.
I do not have much room when I push the bare multi stranded wire into the lug. I am also getting grooves at the underside of the lug from the Temco hammer crimp tool. I am not sure if that is also a problem.

You're going to get grooves... hit it hard, then hit it harder. I've been using that style crimper for 40 years, there is no "overdoing it".

[Jonath108]

Thank you
I will beat the heck out of it.!

[smithdoor]

Very good luck

Dave

You're going to get grooves... hit it hard, then hit it harder. I've been using that style crimper for 40 years, there is no "overdoing it".

[Jonath108]

Very good luck

Dave

Thank You !

[danielplace]

Your barrel is too big.

Fine strand wire is more compact than the wire those were made to fit .

Cut some strands off and put them in with the end to tighten it up in there before you crimp it. The barrel needs to be snug on the strands before you crimp. Go down one size and it may fit properly.

Many electrical supply houses rent real press tools. Swing in and ask if you could make a couple crimps with one. No comparison in results but the wire still has to fit the barrel snug first. Sloppy wire fit makes for a sloppy crimp.

[M J D]

I would try and jam some copper shim material in there. A piece cut out of copper tubing works well. You want the absolute tightest fit possible before crimping. Tinning the end with solder may help but I'm not a fan of solder as I've seen connections get hot and fail but thats mainly a battery cable thing.

[smithdoor]

One advantage of soldering is you reuse the lug.
But after using solder I no longer need to replace any lugs.

One problems I had was employees will do a renumbered on anything this includes crimp lugs.
In most shops have a torch handy so take a minute to solder.

Dave

FYI To big of lug just add more solder will do.

Your barrel is too big.

Fine strand wire is more compact than the wire those were made to fit .

Cut some strands off and put them in with the end to tighten it up in there before you crimp it. The barrel needs to be snug on the strands before you crimp. Go down one size and it may fit properly.

Many electrical supply houses rent real press tools. Swing in and ask if you could make a couple crimps with one. No comparison in results but the wire still has to fit the barrel snug first. Sloppy wire fit makes for a sloppy crimp.

[Jonath108]

Your barrel is too big.

Fine strand wire is more compact than the wire those were made to fit .

Cut some strands off and put them in with the end to tighten it up in there before you crimp it. The barrel needs to be snug on the strands before you crimp. Go down one size and it may fit properly.

Many electrical supply houses rent real press tools. Swing in and ask if you could make a couple crimps with one. No comparison in results but the wire still has to fit the barrel snug first. Sloppy wire fit makes for a sloppy crimp.

Thank you

[Jonath108]

One advantage of soldering is you reuse the lug.
But after using solder I no longer need to replace any lugs.

One problems I had was employees will do a renumbered on anything this includes crimp lugs.
In most shops have a torch handy so take a minute to solder.

Dave

FYI To big of lug just add more solder will do.

Thank You

[Welder Dave]

I would try and jam some copper shim material in there. A piece cut out of copper tubing works well. You want the absolute tightest fit possible before crimping. Tinning the end with solder may help but I'm not a fan of solder as I've seen connections get hot and fail but thats mainly a battery cable thing.

Several stingers and ground clamps come with a piece of thin shim stock to wrap around the cable to make it fit tighter. A good crimp or tight bolt is usually all you need. Soldering isn't common on simple connections.

[M J D]

Several stingers and ground clamps come with a piece of thin shim stock to wrap around the cable to make it fit tighter. A good crimp or tight bolt is usually all you need. Soldering isn't common on simple connections.

I'm well aware of that, he's using crimp on lugs. Some of the lugs are sized for more than 1 size cable. If they don't fit fairly snug in the crimp on lug they won't crimp properly and hold securely. In this case the shim would take up some of the space, allowing a proper crimp.

[mla2ofus]

I agree with smithdoor. I solder all mine with acid core solder then soak it in strong baking soda water to neutralize any acid that worked up in the strands.

[Xsbank]

Crimping is way better than soldering, the crimp (ahem) welds the cable strands into one lump on the lug. Soldering, you are gluing the cable in place with acid, two kinds of metal, one of which can fracture.

[smithdoor]

You may want think about using elevators. The cables are lead connections.
Remember you smart phones use solder.

If like smashing things use crimp type using a hammer.

Dave

Crimping is way better than soldering, the crimp (ahem) welds the cable strands into one lump on the lug. Soldering, you are gluing the cable in place with acid, two kinds of metal, one of which can fracture.

[Jonath108]

Thanks for all of your advice !

[smithdoor]

One I found to handy is box of brass 1/2" NC nuts. If lose one it a pain to find one.
But looking for box on internet can save day.
I even have brass All-thread for new studs.
My shop was over 30 minutes from closest hardware store, it saved a few long trip to have few replacement parts in shop.

Dave

Thanks for all of your advice !

[Welder Dave]

I'm well aware of that, he's using crimp on lugs. Some of the lugs are sized for more than 1 size cable. If they don't fit fairly snug in the crimp on lug they won't crimp properly and hold securely. In this case the shim would take up some of the space, allowing a proper crimp.

I was agreeing with you. I think it's also important to only strip the insulator back till it fits up against the lug. Have seen a lot of cables showing the exposed copper and it can/will cause premature failure.

[M J D]

I was agreeing with you. I think it's also important to only strip the insulator back till it fits up against the lug. Have seen a lot of cables showing the exposed copper and it can/will cause premature failure.

That about stripping only enough and adding a section of good heat shrink tubing over the stem of the lug is also a good idea.

[albrightree]

maybe go down on lug size and try something like a #0 to #1 crimp lug to see if its a better fit. The wire should be a little snug going in.

[Jonath108]

One I found to handy is box of brass 1/2" NC nuts. If lose one it a pain to find one.
But looking for box on internet can save day.
I even have brass All-thread for new studs.
My shop was over 30 minutes from closest hardware store, it saved a few long trip to have few replacement parts in shop.

Dave

can you explain how you use 1/2” NC brass bolts ? I am sure the studs are just steel as well as the washer and nut.
thanks

[smithdoor]

It is stud size on most welders.
The nut holds the copper connector you just solder to cable.

Most studs use 1/2" brass .

The low cost welders will almost any size as found out.
After I retired and sold my business I purchased a small welder from Harbor Frieght it used monkey threads aka metric.

Dave

FYI if the monkey threads fail or nut runs away I plan to real American threads 1/2" NC like all American welders use.

can you explain how you use 1/2” NC brass bolts ? I am sure the studs are just steel as well as the washer and nut.
thanks