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Thread: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

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    Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Name:  axle pin1.jpg
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Size:  187.3 KB This has been rolling around on the floor of the pickup for about a week. 2" 1/4 wall DOM. The new bushing, or bushing housing, for the axle pivot pin.

    Without unsolicited sage advice, it's a tossup. Whether to run steel on steel, or make a new housing that will fit a new 660 bronze bushing.

    Bushings are available https://agpartsfirstllc.mybigcommerc...-kit-xd719kit/

    So are pins https://agpartsfirstllc.mybigcommerc...-pin-72160081/

    It's a good chance that the housing/tubing that holds the bushing is trashed. The axle slams so hard it makes the entire tractor shudder. It's a forgone conclusion that any trace of a bushing is gone, as well as a good deal of the tube that goes through the axle, which held the bushings.

    By the looks of what's left of the rear pivot bushing on the brace arm, they were all steel backed super thin bushings. The type that do fine, until they don't do fine. When they go, they take the surrounding material with them. As is the case at present. The rear brace will need an entire buildup, and remachine.

    The thick wall on the DOM is suitable for machining the ID to accept a bushing, or simply sizing it for a new pin made from either 1018, or Stress Proof. I'm leaning towards steel on steel.

    I have a line on some 932 bronze for machining a new bushing, but haven't decided whether to utilize it.

    1018 running against the DOM will have a tendency to wear both parts, although it's a long process if kept well greased................which this tractor has always been (the front end has been loose for the 25yrs I've owned it, and grease has kept it going). Stress Proof will wear a bit different, with a tendency to wear the housing first. Although sometimes hard on soft is a good combination, and will outlast like materials running against each other(same Rockwell, or Brinell). And Stress Proof machines like a dream. I believe I'll be using Stress Proof if I can get it here on time.

    Bronze will wear better until it doesn't. Constant pounding takes a toll on bronze, making it deform. I've never taken down a bronze bushed assembly that didn't involve a trashed bushing, and ruined pin. It's simply the nature of the beast.

    I don't do PM on this kind of stuff. Most people don't...........so don't cry about it. It's a common failure on the old row crop tractors. Thin axles that weren't really made for constant pounding, combined with long kingpins that act like levers.........on top of which....the kingpins are perpendicular to the axle, with no caster. I'd wager the newer MFD tractors don't experience this problem as much.....dunno. I don't intend to spend 90K to find out.

    I should note........... Bushed assemblies generally, as in this case, involve a relatively short bushing at either end of the pin. I'd imagine that only 30% of the pin length is supported by the bushings. A steel-on-steel assembly is entirely supported its full length.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Almost forgot.

    Besides allowing for any machining to take a bushing(if need be), the thick wall on the DOM allows me to fiddle with the final diameter to accommodate the new pin diameter.

    The pivot casting that holds all of this mess is slightly wallowed, and will require a slightly oversized pin......greater than 1.5 inches.

    And.......the thick wall will take the heat if I need to pour a ton of filler in to close the gap between the DOM, and the axle tube. The existing bushing housing will have to be cut out of the axle tube.
    Last edited by farmersammm; 08-19-2022 at 01:08 AM.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    The material for the pin is coming from Ebay. Won't be here for a few days. 1144 . I may regret going steel on steel, but it's the fastest, easiest, way to get back up and running.

    Pics later showing the damage. The axle has eaten through the protruding bushing sleeve, and worked its way into the casting that holds the pin. In almost 60yrs, it's covered a lot of ground I guess.

    Due to the delay in getting materials, which is entirely my fault..................it's off to the steel store today to pick up some 3/8 plate for the high cut skids on the Krone mower. The idea is to keep moving ahead with something, while waiting on parts/steel for the tractor. Just keep pluggin' away

    I might be able to stand the bright light enough today to get something done.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    The material for the pin showed up today. That's fine, I guess.

    Looking at the tractor, and looking at what it's used for, I'm wondering if the front wheels are actually right for it. They're narrow 7.5 tires that need to carry a lot of pressure to support the front of the tractor. Consequently, they're a rough ride due to the high inflation pressure. It's tearing up the front end.

    Being as we're getting ready to rebuild the pivot, I'm wondering if it might be a good move to go to a wider tire. Something on the order of at least 10.00 inches.

    This tractor has been retired from field use. It's been relegated to hay harvesting. It doesn't have to follow a furrow anymore, so the narrow wheels are not necessary. The Case is the only tractor left that has to do field work.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    The 5020 and the 4440 both have 11;00x 16's and I like to keep them around 28 lbs so there's a bit of give for the spindles. The 4020 with a straight blade has 10;00x 16's which are adequate, but lack the flotation of the bigger tires. Either way you'll likely have to buy wider wheels and the 11;00's will raise the front of the tractor significantly. Those front wheel assist tractors have their own issues with seals and joints that will crop up a lot more frequently than your front axle pivot.
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Name:  axle pin2.jpg
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Size:  217.4 KB The first part for the lifting fixture got done today, and precious little else Allergies hit like an axe, and Benadryl killed the bulk of the day.

    Name:  axle pin3.jpg
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Size:  253.0 KB The tractor only has one, what I judge to be safe, place to lift the front end. There's drilled/tapped holes in the frame rail at this point. I have no idea what they were originally for, but they seem to be a good place to do the lift.

    Name:  axle pin4.jpg
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Size:  198.7 KB As usual, you build from the equipment out. Fit any precision stuff (the mounting plates I made), then add any material to this area after it's all bolted solid. You cannot, with any great degree of success, make something off the equipment to fit.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

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    Been there... made 2 brackets to jack on close to where you're working, and the 2nd and third fixture was to keep the front wheels from flopping around when I took the linkages apart and hold it level. I think I was changing seals in the hydraulic pump that time...
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
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    Been there... made 2 brackets to jack on close to where you're working, and the 2nd and third fixture was to keep the front wheels from flopping around when I took the linkages apart and hold it level. I think I was changing seals in the hydraulic pump that time...
    I'm hoping, probably with little hope of success, that the telescoping sections of the front axle can be disassembled so that I only have to handle the center tube. The Oliver has a telescoping tube axle on the row crop variant. After almost 60yrs, it's probably rusted solid.

    This would have been the perfect job for the forklift attachment ON THE TRACTOR WITH A BAD ENGINE

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Name:  axle pin5.jpg
Views: 640
Size:  199.6 KB The basic thingy is tacked to the bolted on pieces of plate. This insures that it will all fit correctly when it's removed, welded, and later installed again. Always build from the machine out. If the piece of tubing up against the tractor looks a bit off kilter...........you're not seeing things The tractor frame inclines, so it was necessary to match that incline so that the jack would have a straight lift.

    Next, is the decision as to whether to add another piece for additional lift height.........or just rely on blocks under the jack.

    Name:  axle pin6.jpg
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Size:  208.0 KB Great for height, but doesn't give me room for my safety restraint for the jack.

    Name:  axle pin7.jpg
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Size:  198.9 KB Better, but doesn't give me any leeway if the ground isn't level. It's not altogether impossible that the thing might have to be used in the field one day. The piece of pipe is to hold the jack from kicking out. If you've ever had a jack kick out, you know it's a dangerous thing.

    Name:  axle pin8.jpg
Views: 650
Size:  200.8 KB Probably where I'll settle. I need to trim the pipe a bit(it's a drop off of the drop rack), but I think this is probably the most flexible setup.

    The material sizes were run through BeamBoy to see if they're adequate. I'm building to a 4000# lift capacity(with 2x safety factor) I'd be surprised if the front end of this tractor is 4000#, but it's entirely possible. Unballasted, I believe they weigh in the neighborhood of around 9500#, 30% of which, is on the front end. Lifting further back from the front increases the load on the lifting fixture, so it could be a bit heavier at this point.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    About all that's left is to put a piece of plate under the pipe, and tack the pipe to it. 3/8 plate will take the stress off the center wall of the tubing, and transfer it to the shoulders without crushing the wall.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by farmersammm View Post
    About all that's left is to put a piece of plate under the pipe, and tack the pipe to it. 3/8 plate will take the stress off the center wall of the tubing, and transfer it to the shoulders without crushing the wall.
    I'm unfortunately very familiar with jacks "kicking out"... one put me in an ambulance. I think the weak link in that pile is the dirt. My tire guy likes to drag around a 20"square of 3/8 steel plate that he throws on the ground before he starts pumping the 20 ton jack. It isn't light, but it keeps things straight. Got any lengths of scrap you could tack together to make a solid base that won't sink? I prefer one solid block to anything that will tip, as you will see in the pic above. When the wheels were rolled out, I bolted on the home made 4x4 "jack stand" just for safety. The weight while lifting was borne by 2 20 ton jacks on oak blocks.
    Last edited by whtbaron; 08-31-2022 at 04:31 PM.
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
    I'm unfortunately very familiar with jacks "kicking out"... one put me in an ambulance. I think the weak link in that pile is the dirt. My tire guy likes to drag around a 20"square of 3/8 steel plate that he throws on the ground before he starts pumping the 20 ton jack. It isn't light, but it keeps things straight. Got any lengths of scrap you could tack together to make a solid base that won't sink? I prefer one solid block to anything that will tip, as you will see in the pic above. When the wheels were rolled out, I bolted on the home made 4x4 "jack stand" just for safety. The weight while lifting was borne by 2 20 ton jacks on oak blocks.
    I like cribbing blocks made from alternating wood 4x4s with a layer of plywood between them and lots of good wood screws. Pretty much how I jacked the D10 Cat when I did the tracks last year. Used a good chunk of 1/2" plate on the top. The safest way to jack stuff is to have the jack at the top of the pile.
    I have built cradles for my 10 ton floor jack to remove MFWD axles from many Red and Green tractors. Jack the wheels off the floor, remove wheels and set the frame on 10 ton jack stands or bolt a splitting cradle to the frame.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by 12V71 View Post
    I like cribbing blocks made from alternating wood 4x4s with a layer of plywood between them and lots of good wood screws. Pretty much how I jacked the D10 Cat when I did the tracks last year. Used a good chunk of 1/2" plate on the top. The safest way to jack stuff is to have the jack at the top of the pile.
    I have built cradles for my 10 ton floor jack to remove MFWD axles from many Red and Green tractors. Jack the wheels off the floor, remove wheels and set the frame on 10 ton jack stands or bolt a splitting cradle to the frame.
    Ive done lots of rigging, and Iíve lifted and hoisted a lot of heavy things. One thing I know is that there is no substitute for good cribbing. I keep a pallet of 6x6 hardwood, 48Ē long. Layers in alternate directions and shim it level as you go, and sleep like a baby. Iíve seen some splitting stands that looked stout enough, but if I were doing it Iíd crib it too. @farmersammm, please donít put that jack in the dirt. get Something under it to spread that load.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    I reckon you should fix the bad engine on the tractor first

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Name:  axle pin9.jpg
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    Name:  axle pin10.jpg
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Size:  203.0 KB Attached to the frame(luckily it fit as it should), and lifted. You can see why I like something to restrain the jack. There isn't a level piece of ground in the entire shop. And stuff will shift under load.

    Name:  axle pin11.jpg
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Size:  214.6 KB Pull the jack, and let it sit on stands. I do have steel plates that I use when it's going to be sitting for any time at all where there's the possibility of rain......or the ground is somewhat soft from rain. This ground is so packed, it's like concrete when it's dry. She'll come off the jack stands in the morning when I need to bring hay up from the field. We have to put a bunch of bales out to last them while the front end is being worked on.

    Name:  axle pin12.jpg
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    I guess it's about time ain't it

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Woznme View Post
    I reckon you should fix the bad engine on the tractor first
    This is the last man standing.........it still runs

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    I believe this is the first time the entire front end has been off the ground in near 25yrs. I knew it was getting loose over the years, but I had no idea it had progressed as far as it has, until it started slamming badly.

    I believe the pin boss is entirely gone, along with any bushings that might have been in there. I'll be interested to see what damage the bolster casting has suffered. It's the only area I'm really concerned about. The axle itself is a plug and chug job.

    The axle stays are also shot(the bar that comes back from the ends of the axle, and is tied to the underside of the frame under the engine) This will be a PITA. All threaded areas are completely ruined. It's gonna be a matter of cutting that stuff off, making new ones,, and welding them back in the proper position. The casting under the engine is also worn badly.

    These were all steel castings on these tractors, so thankfully they're repairable.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    You got off easy. When I did the bushings on the 4440 it was because the casting holding the axle was cracked. It also forms part of the steering pump so it was losing trans-hydraulic under pressure. Had to replace the whole casting with a good used one...
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
    You got off easy. When I did the bushings on the 4440 it was because the casting holding the axle was cracked. It also forms part of the steering pump so it was losing trans-hydraulic under pressure. Had to replace the whole casting with a good used one...
    The bolster casting? Seen that once before on a MFWD 4450.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Yea... it got bounced around a little too hard on some dry plowing. Tech's I talked to said it usually happens with front end loader machines.
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Name:  olive oyl.jpg
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    After a lengthy separation, lasting 4 years, there's been a reconciliation with my oldest parts dealer. The love affair is back on track.

    They sent me everything I needed to repair the PTO on this tractor, with the understanding that I'd return what was not needed. (It needed some actuating levers and lever pins, and a few friction discs..........ultimately the real problem was a cable that interfered with the operating lever in the cab)

    All these years, they never credited me for the returns, and the bill kept coming.............which I promptly threw in the trash. Interest was reaching the stratosphere by this year. Late charge + interest..................

    FINALLY, I get a letter showing the proper credit, and the actual amount owed.

    Promptly called, and they offered to delete all late charges/interest if I'd pay what's owed. This was after I'd thanked them for reconciling the bill, and told them I'd pay the correct bill. I was thinking I'd still be on the line for the interest, and late fees.

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Name:  axle pin13.jpg
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Size:  203.5 KB Put together an attachment for the work dolly. Something to handle the axle with as little hassle as possible.

    Used the cradles from the pipe stands, which are adjustable. The arms that the pipe stand cradles are attached to, freely slide in/out. And the caddy lifts/lowers/tilts/rolls. Not much this thing can't do. This will be the 3rd set of different attachments for the thing..........MONDO handy. Can't remember how long ago I built it(shrug). I leave all the different attachments on the thing all the time........keeps me from losing track of them.

    Other than this.........the weekend completely got away from us. I was planning to have the axle off the tractor by now.

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  32. #23
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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    I should have been in the combine wrenching on Sunday too, but the oldest grandson wanted me to take him fishing. He turns 18 next year so the days of hanging with grandpa are probably limited... gotta have priorities. Didn't catch any fish but we did a helluva job of weeding the lake...
    The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    Name:  axle pin14.jpg
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Size:  200.1 KB NURSE....................bring me the hot wrench......QUICK!!

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Size:  197.8 KB Could beat on it all day with the 3/4, or go up to the 1" ..............but that's sorta stupid.

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Size:  235.5 KB Hate to ruin the paint on the ol' gal(sigh).

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    Re: Oliver 1850 Axle Pin Replacement

    First off........... Didn't take pics, but the large nut, and thread, are completely ruined. I'd imagine the constant slamming dislodged the nut over time, and ruined the threads.

    Name:  axle pin17.jpg
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Size:  200.0 KB The easy part

    I feared the worst, and it came true.........................

    Name:  axle pin18.jpg
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Size:  220.6 KB Pin partially in bore

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Size:  213.1 KB Pin fully in bore. The bore's not only severely worn, it's worn to a taper(or the pin is......but it's still worn). I prayed the bolster would be ok.........but it ain't.

    This is one of those decision trees I guess. Pull the bolster........which partially supports the steering shaft, and build the bore up, and try to return it to spec. Or do it on the tractor, using a cone stone to get it close enough where there's no play. I haven't' even tried to see if the grinder has enough clearance to fit in the space.

    Name:  axle pin20.jpg
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Size:  233.6 KB Rear of the axle pin boss is extremely wallowed.

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Size:  218.7 KB Front of the pin boss is fairly decent.....even has a smidge of the bushing left.

    The axle is no biggy...........just cut the boss out, and replace it with the DOM I have on hand.

    The bolster is the heart breaker. It was too late in the day to come up with a plan of attack. Take a look at it in the morning, and see what's possible.

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