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Thread: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

  1. #51
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Just ordered my mm211 and spoolmate 150 from welder supply. It was $400 cheaper there than my local welding shop. Couldn't pass it up.

  2. #52
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    I got my 211 at the first of the month from Cyberweld. Got the free helmet (the kid can use the old HF one). Just converted my garage to the 6-50 and I'm going to order that extension cord. Finally got rid of the 20cf bottle I had for my little Lincoln,too.

  3. #53
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    yea buddy...

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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    The center screw on the sheet metal cover doesn't look like it is fully seated.

    If you have C25 shielding gas, I am definitely interested in feedback on the arc characteristics and spatter level with an .030 wire on 1/8"- 1/4" mild steel.
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  5. #55
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan View Post
    The center screw on the sheet metal cover doesn't look like it is fully seated.

    If you have C25 shielding gas, I am definitely interested in feedback on the arc characteristics and spatter level with an .030 wire on 1/8"- 1/4" mild steel.
    Man you have a good eye! I'll tighten it up tomorrow for sure. Yea I do have C25, was playing around with it, mainly to check the behavior of the auto set. But this was using cheap Radnor wire in 0.035" size. Later this week I'll swap in the roll of 0.030" Hobart wire that it came with and blast onto some 1/8" or 3/16" mild steel.
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  6. #56
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    I finally got my 211 unpacked today but there is a problem................................it doesn't fit on the cart from my 135. It is a tad deeper and a tad wider (I added 1" tube to hang cables so it would have been wider originally), and the 211 needs to sit about a 5 gallon bucket higher than the 135 did. Bending over to adjust the 135 was a pain.

    She (I did it and I hate when people call an inanimate object he or she ) looks good with old blue in the background.




    I am thinking of a whole new cart:
    Drawers under welder for spoolgun and other misc stuff since the extra height doesn't take up any more space in the garage.
    A shelf over the welder so the top doesn't get messed up since I always put crap on top of the 135, but stuff fell off due to the handle sticking up.
    Roll bars/frame work front and back to grab the cart by and to help protect the machine and regulator.
    Frame a bit wider (15") and back wheels possibly in a touch to set them flush.
    The bottle might sit just over the axle.
    I haven't decided how low to make the bottom drawer, but I like enough clearance to push it over the back grass to get to the back driveway and garages.
    The POS harbor freight pink tires have to go as they go flat all of the time, but the size is nice and the front casters work great.
    The chain for the bottle does not always stay hooked, so it needs an upgrade. I only use the 80 cf bottle for this machine and thought about another for argon. I have a 248 cf on the 330 abp, but it is a major pain for me to move. The cost to fill the 248 is much better and I need the volume/savings with how quick TIG eats gas.


    I didn't run any beads yet. The 150 15' mig gun should be here tomorrow and I need to put my ground hog clamp on this machine. I did plug in the spool gun and jog the motor and played with the autoset. The fan came on but at a slow speed. It was pretty quiet. When you switch the machine off, it sounds like the fan goes to full speed for a second or two.

    The power switch on the back of the machine is such a joke. The 15 year old Millermatic 135 has the switch on the front.

    I thought about making a new thread out of this post to get more ideas for a cart, but I think it is probably better to just search and browse the other cart threads and pick the ideas I like best. The 211 isn't unique when it comes to a cart, but such an awesome machine deserves a nice cart.

    It was very nice to be able to carry this machine 150 feet without my back killing me. It is easier to carry than a bag of dog food.
    Miller 330abp
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    Miller 135
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    CNC plasma table (build in progress)
    Femi 120abs portable band saw
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  7. #57
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan View Post
    If you have C25 shielding gas, I am definitely interested in feedback on the arc characteristics and spatter level with an .030 wire on 1/8"- 1/4" mild steel.
    I mentioned this in an earlier post on page 1:
    The performance surprises me every time...this thing is a BEAST for it's size. It can spray 0.030 wire no problem - that's right, spray (I haven't tried this on 0.035 wire yet). It's nuts. Max the voltage, put the wire speed on 80, and run an argon-rich mix (I have a C25 tank Y'd together with a straight argon tank). It has ~25v at 230 amps...the Hobart or the old 211 doesn't even come close to that. It literally chews through 3/8 plate if you're not careful haha. It's also dead silent most of the time due to the Fan on Demand. Short arc characteristics are much more controllable than my old Hobart due in part to the smooth start start feature, infinite voltage control, and gas preflow, but likely also due to some black magic behind the panels as well. This is especially true for thinner material. The Advanced Autoset feature is surprisingly dead-on, a little hot (e.g. 1/8 settings would be better for most 3/16 welding), but voltage/wire ratios are perfect.

    I pretty much only use Lincoln L56 0.030 wire...sometimes 0.025 or 0.035 L56...but primarily 0.030. I also find myself welding 1/8-1/4" the most, so I feel like I can speak to your question. It is awesome on 0.030 L56. I have not tried any other brands/types of wire on this machine. Much like my old Hobart 210MVP, if the area is cleaned to shiny bright metal and you have a good ground, there is no spatter on 1/8". No spatter meaning "zero" (assuming your settings, torch angle, and travel speed are in check). If there's some mill scale, there will be some spatter, but it's manageable. Going up to 3/16-1/4" material, there is virtually no spatter if the conditions are ideal (shiny bright metal, good ground, proper settings, torch angle, travel speed, etc.), but it's hard to avoid. It is better in this department than the trusty Hobart 210MVP...it's like the super fine "misty" spatter. I believe it's from the wire being on the upper end of its comfortable current capacity and the short arcs don't play too nice here. Can 0.030 wire handle 170-190 amps? Sure, but you have to be mindful that you're pushing it. 0.035 wire might be a little better at handling the required current for 3/16-1/4", but at the expense of the "do almost everything" qualities of 0.030. It is certainly far from unstable and I am happy with the qualities of the weld. To put it simply: I'll be buying another spool of the 0.030 L56

    I hope this helps answer your question.
    ------
    A little update on performance/usability - unless I'm doing spray, I still find myself using Autoset pretty much all the time. It's just fast and dead nuts on the voltages and wire feed speeds. I also want to retract my statement regarding the auto settings being a little hot...I think they're perfect after a little more testing. It is nice going full manual when the time calls for it though. Loving this machine.
    Last edited by DerekV; 10-13-2015 at 09:24 AM. Reason: Always forgetting things
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  8. #58
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by CGT80 View Post
    I finally got my 211 unpacked today but there is a problem................................it doesn't fit on the cart from my 135. It is a tad deeper and a tad wider (I added 1" tube to hang cables so it would have been wider originally), and the 211 needs to sit about a 5 gallon bucket higher than the 135 did. Bending over to adjust the 135 was a pain.

    She (I did it and I hate when people call an inanimate object he or she ) looks good with old blue in the background.




    I am thinking of a whole new cart:
    Drawers under welder for spoolgun and other misc stuff since the extra height doesn't take up any more space in the garage.
    A shelf over the welder so the top doesn't get messed up since I always put crap on top of the 135, but stuff fell off due to the handle sticking up.
    Roll bars/frame work front and back to grab the cart by and to help protect the machine and regulator.
    Frame a bit wider (15") and back wheels possibly in a touch to set them flush.
    The bottle might sit just over the axle.
    I haven't decided how low to make the bottom drawer, but I like enough clearance to push it over the back grass to get to the back driveway and garages.
    The POS harbor freight pink tires have to go as they go flat all of the time, but the size is nice and the front casters work great.
    The chain for the bottle does not always stay hooked, so it needs an upgrade. I only use the 80 cf bottle for this machine and thought about another for argon. I have a 248 cf on the 330 abp, but it is a major pain for me to move. The cost to fill the 248 is much better and I need the volume/savings with how quick TIG eats gas.


    I didn't run any beads yet. The 150 15' mig gun should be here tomorrow and I need to put my ground hog clamp on this machine. I did plug in the spool gun and jog the motor and played with the autoset. The fan came on but at a slow speed. It was pretty quiet. When you switch the machine off, it sounds like the fan goes to full speed for a second or two.

    The power switch on the back of the machine is such a joke. The 15 year old Millermatic 135 has the switch on the front.

    I thought about making a new thread out of this post to get more ideas for a cart, but I think it is probably better to just search and browse the other cart threads and pick the ideas I like best. The 211 isn't unique when it comes to a cart, but such an awesome machine deserves a nice cart.

    It was very nice to be able to carry this machine 150 feet without my back killing me. It is easier to carry than a bag of dog food.
    I had that same cart and had the same problem...it's supposed to be the same foot print as the old 211 and HH210MVP (just shorter) and it's definitely longer by a half inch. I massaged the old cart to get it to work with the new 211 and also realized that it was far too low. Combining all that, the cheap construction, and the desire for having two bottles on the cart pushed me over the edge to build a new cart. The design I went with brought everything to a comfortable height, provided the perfect amount of storage, and kept the foot print small. In case you're wondering, the machine is secured by tie downs so it doesn't fall off/tip over when your pushing the cart around. I left a ~1.5" gap on the top of the side "walls" of the storage section to run the tie downs through. Cover even fits over them...stealth mode IIRC the dimensions I settled on were 20.5" L x12.5" W...15" W might be a little big.

    Yeah the switch in the back takes some getting used to. Carrying it around comfortably shouldn't though
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  9. #59
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan View Post
    The center screw on the sheet metal cover doesn't look like it is fully seated.

    If you have C25 shielding gas, I am definitely interested in feedback on the arc characteristics and spatter level with an .030 wire on 1/8"- 1/4" mild steel.

    Welded up some 3/16" flat bar stock. No prep, just a down-n-dirty weld. The pieces were slightly warm after just being plasma cut. Those "dark spots" on top of the bead are actually shiny spots where the brown silicon islands chipped themselves off.

    Auto-Set for 3/16"
    Hobart 0.030" ER70S-6
    20 CFH C25
    I'd say stick-out was closer to 1/2" than the 3/8" I was aiming for

    Most important thing to know is that I'm no pro, just a hobbyist, and it shows






    Macro-etch of the beads after slicing it up and polishing with 3M maroon Scotch-Brite Pad. You can tell I was about 10 degrees off from the ideal 45 degree gun angle. Guess i didn't want to melt too much off the top edge of the lap joint. Had I been spot-on, I could have gotten right into the heart of the root.




    Hardly any spatter worth mentioning, only very tiny spatter BBs. Overall, I'm very happy with this machine.
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  10. #60
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
    Welded up some 3/16" flat bar stock. No prep, just a down-n-dirty weld. The pieces were slightly warm after just being plasma cut. Those "dark spots" on top of the bead are actually shiny spots where the brown silicon islands chipped themselves off.

    Auto-Set for 3/16"
    Hobart 0.030" ER70S-6
    20 CFH C25
    I'd say stick-out was closer to 1/2" than the 3/8" I was aiming for

    Most important thing to know is that I'm no pro, just a hobbyist, and it shows






    Macro-etch of the beads after slicing it up and polishing with 3M maroon Scotch-Brite Pad. You can tell I was about 10 degrees off from the ideal 45 degree gun angle. Guess i didn't want to melt too much off the top edge of the lap joint. Had I been spot-on, I could have gotten right into the heart of the root.




    Hardly any spatter worth mentioning, only very tiny spatter BBs. Overall, I'm very happy with this machine.
    Nice!!!
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  11. #61
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    I have some MIG consumables for sale in the classifieds forum. The liners and tips would fit your 211.

    Would prefer to sell as a lot, but if it goes no where I could split off the tips and liners for you. Also have several 33lb spools of L56, but I don't think they fit.

  12. #62
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekV View Post
    I had that same cart and had the same problem...it's supposed to be the same foot print as the old 211 and HH210MVP (just shorter) and it's definitely longer by a half inch. I massaged the old cart to get it to work with the new 211 and also realized that it was far too low. Combining all that, the cheap construction, and the desire for having two bottles on the cart pushed me over the edge to build a new cart. The design I went with brought everything to a comfortable height, provided the perfect amount of storage, and kept the foot print small. In case you're wondering, the machine is secured by tie downs so it doesn't fall off/tip over when your pushing the cart around. I left a ~1.5" gap on the top of the side "walls" of the storage section to run the tie downs through. Cover even fits over them...stealth mode IIRC the dimensions I settled on were 20.5" L x12.5" W...15" W might be a little big.

    Yeah the switch in the back takes some getting used to. Carrying it around comfortably shouldn't though
    Your hand cart idea looks good and gave you a jump start on building a custom cart. The only spot for my welder is deep, but narrow. I wanted drawers under mine and thought about building them, but then saw that someone used a little filing cabinet and others used tool boxes such as the side boxes for carts. I fount the perfect size filing cabinet for under $200 shipped. I will build a 1" square tube frame around it and will be able to set two 80cf bottles on the back. I still need to decide on a color for the cart. The cabinet is light gray and I don't really like the look of miller blue carts and red and black are over done. Maybe silver would look good for the cabinet and frame. Anyways, thanks for the link and ideas.

    For now, I am using the old cart. The 211 welds great and autoset is just fine with 0.035" wire and C25. Splatter is very low.........even lower than the same wire in a Miller 252. The autoset is easy to switch between settings and I don't have to remember the numbers for the manual settings which are a waste since they are not even in volts and inches. I'm sure I will use manual for some projects to tweak the bead, but autoset is the next best thing to having your own presets to choose ( I saw a big lincoln mig that had that option).

    Oscar, what did you use to etch your welds. That looks good and I need to try that to see how I am really doing.
    Miller 330abp
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  13. #63
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by redneckdan View Post
    I have some MIG consumables for sale in the classifieds forum. The liners and tips would fit your 211.

    Would prefer to sell as a lot, but if it goes no where I could split off the tips and liners for you. Also have several 33lb spools of L56, but I don't think they fit.
    33lb spools will not fit the 211 inverter. I had to use wire that only comes in 33lbs and bigger, so I spooled about 13 pounds of 0.035" onto an 8" plastic spool. That was not fun and I should have used the lathe to wind it. It is working, but sometimes the wire gets hung up a bit due to the wraps not being as tight and uniform as a factory spool. My project needed the look and corrosion resistance of the wire, but the parts are not structural and are only for looks so a slow feed here and there isn't a big deal and when it does slow down, it doesn't do much to that part of the bead. I have to grind the welds anyway for the right look. The big spools are wider than the 8" as well. I was going to cut the outer part off the spool since it was 2/3rd's used, but it didn't pan out. I also wasn't ready to drill a hole in the back of a new machine to use the roll external of the machine, but that may be the route I go, if I have to use much of this wire in the future.

    L56 did weld nicely for me and I think I will stick to that product for general use.
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  14. #64
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by CGT80 View Post
    Oscar, what did you use to etch your welds. That looks good and I need to try that to see how I am really doing.
    Naval Jelly rust remover.
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Anybody using the M15 gun? How does the front end compare to the included M10 (body size/length/etc.)? They look to be the exact same...which if that's the case, I might not even bother with the M15. Really not thrilled with the M10.

    I'm actually considering a 12ft M25 with a 0.030/0.035 liner (for almost everything) and getting a 0.025 liner for the M10 (for the small stuff).

    And can anyone comment on the HTP replacements? Mainly the back end connection? I've been reading that it's a "Binzel" style and I'm wondering how it's any different physically and better/worse performance-wise.

    Thanks in advance.
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekV View Post
    Anybody using the M15 gun? How does the front end compare to the included M10 (body size/length/etc.)? They look to be the exact same...which if that's the case, I might not even bother with the M15. Really not thrilled with the M10.

    I'm actually considering a 12ft M25 with a 0.030/0.035 liner (for almost everything) and getting a 0.025 liner for the M10 (for the small stuff).

    And can anyone comment on the HTP replacements? Mainly the back end connection? I've been reading that it's a "Binzel" style and I'm wondering how it's any different physically and better/worse performance-wise.

    Thanks in advance.
    I'm assuming you mean the M-150 and M-100 guns...........that is what cyberweld lists. I think miller added a zero on the recent guns as my old Miller 135 has an M-10 gun. The 211 inverter came with an M-100 and I bought an M-150 15'. They are identical but the stock gun doesn't have the model printed on the cable and the M-150 has that number printed on the cable. I have not bothered using the short, stock gun. I like the size of the 100/150 guns.
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekV View Post
    Anybody using the M15 gun? How does the front end compare to the included M10 (body size/length/etc.)? They look to be the exact same...which if that's the case, I might not even bother with the M15. Really not thrilled with the M10.

    I'm actually considering a 12ft M25 with a 0.030/0.035 liner (for almost everything) and getting a 0.025 liner for the M10 (for the small stuff).

    And can anyone comment on the HTP replacements? Mainly the back end connection? I've been reading that it's a "Binzel" style and I'm wondering how it's any different physically and better/worse performance-wise.

    Thanks in advance.
    Derek,

    The HTP equivalent to the M-25 has the standard Miller power pin on the back end. The gun liner is the portion of the gun that is a Binzel "style". The gun uses standard Miller contact tips and nozzles.

    Before purchasing a Miller M-25 gun make certain the access hole in the face of the machine is large enough to allow the power pin to fully seat into the socket on the wire drive.
    ESAB Migmaster 250
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Thanks Dan, very much appreciated. Please forgive me, but what is this "power pin" you speak of?

    Is it what I have circled?
    Name:  M25 connection.jpg
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by CGT80 View Post
    I got the 211 and 150 spoolmate, but Cyberweld seemed to forget my m150 15' mig gun and plasma consumables. The email listed them with a tracking number and I got the box with that number, but maybe they packed the stuff in another wrapper and didn't get it in the bigger box. Some of the other items were wrapped in smaller boxes and inside the large box. I didn't pull the welder out of it's box yet and check inside the machine, but it appeared sealed when I opened it. I pulled my hip joint out of place and had to see my chiro. so there was no way I was lifting that machine out of the box, no matter how light. The spool gun feels nice in the hand though.

    I will ask Cyber weld what is up in the morning.
    Hey guys, its been a while since I last checked the forum, work and newborn got me busy. I received the 211 from Cyberweld and all the accessories I ordered. The only mistake is that they shipped the M-150 short version not the 15" I ordered. Called them and they shipped me a new one right away. All items received. No issues with Cyberweld. Great Customer Service in fact.
    I set-up the 211 on a HF Cart, Does not fit. Since I don't have time to make a cart, im considering ordering the Miller cart that fits this machine. As it sits right now, its just on the shelf in my garage and I just don't like it there. Are there any other carts that are better than the Miller or HF that the 211 fits on?

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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    I too have the HF cart. It fit my old 211, but not this new one. I was just going to add a wood base to adapt it to fit my HF cart until i have time to make one. i have read the miller cart is near the same level as the HF cart, only at 5 times the price. i say adapt it somehow and make a proper cart.

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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekV View Post
    Thanks Dan, very much appreciated. Please forgive me, but what is this "power pin" you speak of?

    Is it what I have circled?
    Name:  M25 connection.jpg
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    Derek,

    The power pin is the cylindrical portion with the O-rings, that inserts into the socket of the wire drive. The portion you circled is the liner retaining nut/ wire guide.
    ESAB Migmaster 250
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  22. #72
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan View Post
    Derek,

    The power pin is the cylindrical portion with the O-rings, that inserts into the socket of the wire drive. The portion you circled is the liner retaining nut/ wire guide.
    Thanks again Dan
    Millermatic 211 w/Spoolmate 150
    Hypertherm PMX45XP

    Wishlist:
    HTP Invertig 221

  23. #73
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    Sep 2015
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

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    I set up my 211 and here is the first weld I did with it. What am I doing wrong? Doesn't look right. I was told travel speed but what about it ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  24. #74
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    So I've been wanting to do this for awhile and I managed to find some time the other day. I wanted to get a good idea of what I can do with this machine with my current equipment and 0.030 wire. To be honest, I surprised myself.

    Room temperature (no preheat whatsoever) 3/8" mild steel lap joint, mill scale flap disk'd off, and clamped to a random 5"x5"x9" aluminum block I have (to prevent warping and to suck out as much hear as possible in order to showcase this 211's power). Single pass, 0.030 L56, voltage maxed, WFS="85", straight argon tank @ 15 CFH, C25 tank @ 13 CFH (combined ~92/8 ArCO2 mix @ 28 CFH). No spatter, no weave, straight push right to left.

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    Spray transfer
    Millermatic 211 w/Spoolmate 150
    Hypertherm PMX45XP

    Wishlist:
    HTP Invertig 221

  25. #75
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    Feb 2015
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    Re: Buying a Miller 211. What else to get?

    Quote Originally Posted by tacorican View Post
    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445977554.219465.jpg
Views: 577
Size:  37.0 KB

    I set up my 211 and here is the first weld I did with it. What am I doing wrong? Doesn't look right. I was told travel speed but what about it ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Looks a little fast from the middle-on (going from left to right). It gets thin on the toes and has a wire-y high crown in the middle, so yeah just a little fast.

    What were your settings, wire, gas type, and gas flow? Pushing or pulling the puddle?
    Millermatic 211 w/Spoolmate 150
    Hypertherm PMX45XP

    Wishlist:
    HTP Invertig 221

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