The Official Craigslist Score Thread!

[TraditionalToolworks]

Wasn't a steal, but at 1200$ was a pretty good price.

Yes, a decent price for that lathe.

If it was me, I would get that collet wheel and chuck off the ways and try to take clean it up and keep all metal tooling off the ways. But not trying to tell you what to do.

Are there flat belts or v-belts in the headstock? It has the newer style toggle clutch, could have hardened ways also...and why I asked about the belt type. Looks like it has the threaded spindle. I'd say that's a nice score, taper attachment, steady, Jacobs chuck, etc...no toolpost, but maybe that's a rocker style in the tray...

Do you see scraping on the ways? Looks like it up near the headstock. Either the ways are scraped or ground. If it's a hardened bed they're ground.

Nice score!

[M J D]

I don't believe it's hardened, no letter H in the serial #. There is a lantern type toolpost and quite a few Armstrong holders. It has a twin V belt drive from motor to jackshaft, and then the flat belt drive with 4 steps. There are quite a few broken oil cups that need to be replaced. It still uses the threaded spindle.

[machinisttx]

That wasn't a bad price at all considering it has a taper attachment and the collet attachment.

[N2 Welding]

Got my Gun Master 250 mig gun in today for the Mig Master 250 and gave it a whirl. All I can say is WOW what a machine for 75 Buckeroos!

[M J D]

That wasn't a bad price at all considering it has a taper attachment and the collet attachment.

The collet attachment is missing, I just have the drawbar.

[TraditionalToolworks]

The collet attachment is missing, I just have the drawbar.

That's all you need, along with a sleeve typically. Most South Bend lathes use a sleeve for the collets at the nose, but the collets screw into the tube, AFAIK. You tighten them with the hand wheel.

There are several designations for a hardened bed. But you're probably right as it has the flat belts and threaded spindle. The most desirable models are the ones with D1-4 spindle nose, toggle clutch, v-belts on the spindle and hardened/ground bed.

The others are still good, and in fact, a scraped bed is easier to restore for most people as you can learn to scrape the ways. Ground beds need to be re-ground when they go bad...this is to say that a lot of people prefer a scraped bed so they can more easily restore it themselves.

Still, a very nice score.

[M J D]

That's all you need, along with a sleeve typically. Most South Bend lathes use a sleeve for the collets at the nose, but the collets screw into the tube, AFAIK. You tighten them with the hand wheel.

There are several designations for a hardened bed. But you're probably right as it has the flat belts and threaded spindle. The most desirable models are the ones with D1-4 spindle nose, toggle clutch, v-belts on the spindle and hardened/ground bed.

The others are still good, and in fact, a scraped bed is easier to restore for most people as you can learn to scrape the ways. Ground beds need to be re-ground when they go bad...this is to say that a lot of people prefer a scraped bed so they can more easily restore it themselves.

Still, a very nice score.

Please elaborate on the collets. Isn't the spindle a Morse taper, 4 maybe? So the collet goes directly in spindle and drawbar tightens it? I thought I'm missing something , since I have a hook spanner as well. Maybe that's for something entirely different. I haven't found a lot of info on the collet deal, other than another style using a large lever.

[farmersamm]

Picked up this south bend 13". Other than being filthy it appears to have very little wear. It came with a 3 and a 4 jaw 8" chuck, along with some other tooling. Bd1 was nice enough to take a quick look at it and put a deposit down on it for me. Ended up being about a 3 hour drive to pick up. Wasn't a steal, but at 1200$ was a pretty good price. From what I found it appears to be somewhere around 1959-1961 manufactured date.Attachment 1684295

Looks good. But then.......I think ANYTHING looks good Then I make the fatal mistake of doing a total teardown Then the nitpicking starts, and the wallet starts to drain Oh.......and don't forget the price of blood pressure meds........the fear of being ejected from the house cause you got lathe parts in the kitchen/livingroom/bathroom

[farmersamm]

Please elaborate on the collets. Isn't the spindle a Morse taper, 4 maybe? So the collet goes directly in spindle and drawbar tightens it? I thought I'm missing something , since I have a hook spanner as well. Maybe that's for something entirely different. I haven't found a lot of info on the collet deal, other than another style using a large lever.

http://www.kanabco.com/vms/lathe_col...collet_02.html

See following post with Ebay link, this appears to be the right setup

[farmersamm]

The entire set I guess. Not familiar with Southbend.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/southbend-l...gAAOSwIk9adzLa

[farmersamm]

And the money meter starts ticking

[farmersamm]

Hell, for most work I'd think a good 4 jaw would be accurate enough. Little longer to set up, but............. Hell, I'm no machinist, and generally find a way to do stuff with a minimum of goodies.

[Hobbytime]

Got my Gun Master 250 mig gun in today for the Mig Master 250 and gave it a whirl. All I can say is WOW what a machine for 75 Buckeroos!

sweet deal on that, even if it was a nogo for $75.00, it probably has that in scrap and parts, but working is always better..

[N2 Welding]

sweet deal on that, even if it was a nogo for $75.00, it probably has that in scrap and parts, but working is always better..

Yeah I was thinking the same thing when deciding to get it or not. I got to use it for a minute last night for the first time. Was experiencing drive roll slipping but otherwise it welds beautifully Still have minor bugs to work out with wire feeding, it could be many things or combination of things causing the slipping.

[M J D]

Hell, for most work I'd think a good 4 jaw would be accurate enough. Little longer to set up, but............. Hell, I'm no machinist, and generally find a way to do stuff with a minimum of goodies.

Those links appear to be what's needed. If I was doing multiple pieces it might be worth having. Otherwise I'm in the same situation as you, the 3 and 4 jaw chucks will do almost everything. I may look into getting a face plate that is threaded to match the, I believe, 2-1/4" x8 tpi spindle.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Please elaborate on the collets. Isn't the spindle a Morse taper, 4 maybe? So the collet goes directly in spindle and drawbar tightens it? I thought I'm missing something , since I have a hook spanner as well. Maybe that's for something entirely different. I haven't found a lot of info on the collet deal, other than another style using a large lever.

MJD,

You have the tube, that's the most needed piece. There is a sleeve, they are typically not cheap to buy, but it won't break the bank (search on ebay). The taper inside the spindle is typically like a Morse taper, but it's not the same and the diameters are different on the sleeve that goes in the headstock than a standard Morse taper. I'm going off memory a bit here, but most of the SB lathes work this way. (hey, a lathe pun!).

You insert the sleeve into the headstock spindle, and now you have the inside of your sleeve which matches up to your collet taper, 2A on the 13 is what it should be I believe.

EDIT: I should add, the tube screws onto the collet, the collet is inserted into the sleeve, but the threads on the collet will stick out the end of the sleeve into the spindle. The tube threads onto the collet and as you tighten the handwheel it pulls the collet into the sleeve and tightens up the collet. You adjust the hand wheel for the collet tightness. I hope that makes sense to you. I should also add, there are a difference in collets. The Hardinge collets will spring open as you loosen them, that's a huge advantage over ones that stay collapsed...so the Hardinge are the most desirable if you go shopping on ebay for used ones. Don't buy old beat up and mangled collets though, try to get decent ones. Also, there's another style of collet closer that has a lever on it, these are more desirable as you can adjust the lever for your work and open/close the collet with the lever. The handwheel is not as convenient, but it can be easier to adjust as you only need to screw the tube onto the collet. Depends on what type of work you're doing. The lever is faster for duplicating work.

In a 9A it uses a 3C, and in a heavy 10L (large spindle) it uses either a 5C for large spindle or the smaller 10R spindle which is also 2A. The large spindle with the 5C are the most desirable. I am not sure if the 13 used 5C collets or not, I'm not too familiar with that model. I own a 9A and a 10L (the 10L is in pieces).

I wouldn't get too carried away with taking everything apart and repainting, because once you do that you will be in for a long refurbishing process. This is to say, it takes a lot of work to take an entire lathe apart, strip the parts, repaint, put everything back together cleanly and lube everything up properly...just clean it up, get all that metal off your ways, and get it spinning and making chips. After you have it running and making chips, then evaluate it and decide if you want to take on that big of a project or not.

When I bought my heavy 10 I knew I would take my time and clean and paint everything, so I took the major pieces apart for easier storage, but you have to be really careful doing this as you can easily loose parts. Thats why I tried to keep as many large pieces together.

Anyway, long story short, don't try and start taking anything apart until you understand the lathe better.

Use the rocker style tool post to start, but the first thing you should consider on this lathe is a quick change tool post, like an Aloris style. I prefer the genuine Aloris, but you can pick up a Phase II for less, they work ok, just don't feel like an Aloris.

HTH,

[M J D]

No plans on doing the refurb thing. I have quite a few lantern post holders so for now they will be fine. That makes sense on the collets. There are some broken oil cups that I believe happened when it was in storage. I think McMaster Carr has those. Phase convertor should be here tomorrow along with some lathe bits . Hopefully sometime tomorrow or Saturday I can start turning something on this machine. I looked at a few things regarding the collets, and I believe a heavy 10 and a 13 use 5C collets, since they have the larger spindle bore. Thanks for the info, Traditional.

[Hobbytime]

Yeah I was thinking the same thing when deciding to get it or not. I got to use it for a minute last night for the first time. Was experiencing drive roll slipping but otherwise it welds beautifully Still have minor bugs to work out with wire feeding, it could be many things or combination of things causing the slipping.

are you using flux core?

[arcflash]

Nice looking lathe, not a bad price.

[Bruiser]

4'x8' 1/2" top with 4"x4" square tubing legs. $325

[N2 Welding]

are you using flux core?

No solid core ER70S6 . The machine had a mig gun liner in place of a factory guide tube. I am working on getting all the bugs eliminated

[machinisttx]

No plans on doing the refurb thing. I have quite a few lantern post holders so for now they will be fine. That makes sense on the collets. There are some broken oil cups that I believe happened when it was in storage. I think McMaster Carr has those. Phase convertor should be here tomorrow along with some lathe bits . Hopefully sometime tomorrow or Saturday I can start turning something on this machine. I looked at a few things regarding the collets, and I believe a heavy 10 and a 13 use 5C collets, since they have the larger spindle bore. Thanks for the info, Traditional.

The Heavy 10 uses 5C collets with both the handwheel and lever style attachments. Mine's got a 3ph motor on it. Was going to build a rotary phase converter, then found out I could get a VFD for around $100, so that's the way I went. The variable speed is a nice feature. I can't tell you much about the 13" other than there were several variations.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Please elaborate on the collets.

Out of interest I was looking to find out if the 13" could take 5C collets. I have seen people saying it is possible with the large spindle, otherwise it will only accept 2A I believe. Heavy 10R was interchangeable with 13 and Heavy 10L was interchangeable with 16 per the brochure from 1948, see page 23.

http://www.wswells.com/data/catalog/1948-cat-100-G.pdf

Here's '67, which is like your lathe and it does say it will take up to 1". That won't take a 5C I don't think, it's too small. So like the Japanese say, "Maybe I think so".

http://www.wswells.com/data/catalog/...mage_0001.html

You can decode your serial number and/or catalog number at the following link. That will help you tell if you had a ground bed, regular/large spindle lathe or if it's a toolroom. Toolroom lathes came with taper attachment, collet rack, collets, hand wheel, possibly a couple other things.

http://www.wswells.com/sn/sn_index.html

It seems there could be some 13s with a large spindle. What does yours measure?

[M J D]

Mine has what I believe is 1-3/8" possibly larger. I just did a rough measure of the drawbar.

[TraditionalToolworks]

Mine has what I believe is 1-3/8" possibly larger. I just did a rough measure of the drawbar.

Ah, if it's 1-3/8" that should fit the 5C with the proper sleeve.