Hercules hole saws any good?

[motolife313]

Hole saw won’t cut anymore and I tried to sharpen it with a cutoff wheel and it didn’t help much. Could be the way the metal is shaped. Ends are lower were the hole saw is not touching it’s darn near about to break through but won’t bit anymore metal off

[52 Ford]

I'd take a chance on the Hercules hole saws. I haven't heard much if anything bad about that brand.

[tapwelder]

Is that mild steel?

Fwiw I have used their 12” dry cut saw. It did well on steel, but a new blade died early on stainless. They claim it
Will work on stainless.

[52 Ford]

Is that mild steel?

Fwiw I have used their 12” dry cut saw. It did well on steel, but a new blade died early on stainless. They claim it
Will work on stainless.

Surface speed on dry cut saws is really high. Honestly, I'm surprised they work as well as they do.

[motolife313]

1/16” stainless. 3.5” hole

[tapwelder]

if you spun in it much without progress, then it is hardened.

I had to cut some 6 inch holes in 1/16 stainless. used milwaukee hole saw with a warranty from Home Depot. returned it 3 times before cutting the holes. I did not realize the steel was hardened, blamed the blade and they swapped it.

[rancher76]

if you spun in it much without progress, then it is hardened.

I had to cut some 6 inch holes in 1/16 stainless. used milwaukee hole saw with a warranty from Home Depot. returned it 3 times before cutting the holes. I did not realize the steel was hardened, blamed the blade and they swapped it.

It looks work hardened to me, as well. Zooming in on the picture, I thought I saw some discoloration. At this point, I would try slow rpm, steady pressure, lots of lube. May use up another hole saw or two. Good luck!

[52 Ford]

For best results, pick up a carbide tipped holesaw in the correct diameter. It's going to run you about $30. https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-C...GC7?th=1&psc=1

[whtbaron]

I'd put a small cut off disc in a Dremel and finish marking the circle, the I'd hit it with the plasma using a guide. Got any buddy's with a plasma? The mini cutoff disks would finish it cheaper than junking a new holesaw.

[motolife313]

Ya might be best to just cut it out with mini cutoff wheel I was worried about burning the steel. Figured it would only mess it up in the groove tho where the teeth are contacting. Would like to try a new hole saw first tho and see if it grabs and takes metal out. This hole saw was used before this project, so not the sharpest. I’ll get another pic in the light. My guy be a shadow in there

[John T]

Drill a couple holes in it to get a Jigsaw in there or reciprocating airsaw and finish it off.

[motolife313]

Or maybe break the hardend layer with a mini cut off wheel then proceed

[motolife313]

For best results, pick up a carbide tipped holesaw in the correct diameter. It's going to run you about $30. https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-C...GC7?th=1&psc=1

That’s a good deal. Might pick that up

[John T]

Can't really tell what that is...

Can you get to the bottom side and make a cut?

[tapwelder]

I would try to anneal it.

[motolife313]

I don’t wanna weaken it

[arcflash]

You have a big problem with work hardening. Grinding or plasma cutting is your only solution at this point. Annealing wont work as it is the heat that caused the problem in the first place. Slow speed pulsed on and off with coolant in the future would help. 3-1/2 inch diameter has a pretty high tip speed on the blades even with a slow drill.

[rancher76]

I’m not sure what size you are needing, search Lenox carbide tipped hole saw on Amazon. I have had a 2-3/8 one for probably 15 years, only get it out for special occasions. The one I have looks like a regular hole saw, just has the carbide brazed on the teeth. I use tap magic cutting fluid with it, and run low rpm’s. Are you using a hand drill or a drill press of some type? It’s been my experience that most drill presses run too fast to run hole saws in steel. I’m down in the 100 rpm to 200rpm range when I do it. It’s worked best for me in stainless to always keep it cutting, frequent back outs to clear the chips. Don’t let it stop cutting and build friction. I really think that with the carbide hole saw and patience, you can salvage the part and still have a good bore.

I just realized you had said 3-1/2, here is the hole saw type I have had good results with- https://a.co/d/goCqpEC

[arcflash]

Something else I noticed is the part is formed. It is already work hardened before you started.

[tapwelder]

Weaken is vague. It was probably soft to bending and cutting. It won’t be spaghetti

[whtbaron]

Next hole saw might work better if you can use the same pilot hole and come up from the bottom. Should be almost through by the time you get back into the hardened metal.

[motolife313]

Something else I noticed is the part is formed. It is already work hardened before you started.

Maybe that’s why it doesn’t want cut over there.

[motolife313]

Next hole saw might work better if you can use the same pilot hole and come up from the bottom. Should be almost through by the time you get back into the hardened metal.

It’s already all tack together.

[John T]

Next hole saw might work better if you can use the same pilot hole and come up from the bottom. Should be almost through by the time you get back into the hardened metal.

are you kidding me?

This is getting old.

Can you get to the bottom side and make a cut?

[motolife313]

Nobody is joking princess