I've seen the krylon at hardware stores but I'm sure that's hit and miss. They don't usually carry things that don't move well. Check with some auto body shops and see if there is a local paint store that mainlines in the auto body side of the fence.

So anyway, think auto body more than welding. It's more popular in that arena than GP welding. If you are using solid wire and gas (gmaw) get ready to be disappointed.

 

I'm welding a set of subframe connectors on a car and want to spray the area to avoid corrosion of the bare metal later. Was recommended on the site that showed the connectors.

I'm using solid wire and C25... Why the potential disappointment?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Rob

 

Re: Weld Through Primer ~ All Thur The Process ?




Hey Crackedback

Let me ask you your opinion on this welding situation please.

Lets say I'm welding a butt joint on 18 gauage sheet metal.

I gap the joint to about 1/16th or whatever your comfortable welding.

QUESTION(S) PLEASE;

1. Do I spray the joint with Weld-Thru before I begin the butt weld?
2. If indeed I spray and now tack here and there not to WARP the s/metal. I grind down the tacks and wire brush the joint.
Do I have to spray again and again after each stich weld ?
3. Or do I just gap the butt weld without any Weld-Thru Spray and complete the weld and NOW spray with Weld-Thru ?

Thanks guys
GOD BLESS

QUOTE: It's not how long one lives that counts; BUT HOW YOU SERVE OTHERS THAT REALLY COUNTS.

 

Primer does not protect against rust. Primer then paint, but don't leave the primer on by itself.

 

Of course everything is subject to every individuals perception but,,,,,, ...

Most any decent primer isn't really gonna be an easy weld thru. Most of the affordable off the shelf weld thru's are a blend of weld thru (heavy etch & heavy zinc) and a so-so primer. The really good weld thru's run about 30 bucks for the tall rattle can.

Most weld throughs work pretty well if you're running stick which has the necessary arc force to blow it out of there. That may not be what you want for your application. Maybe if you're doing 3/16ths or 1/4 where you can crank it up, not sure.

If you aren't doing a lot what I do for long waiting periods on hit and run projects is a light primer, then go back in with a small brush, like a tooth brush, acetone and just clean that little swath you want to weld.

Here's a semi interesting read.

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-1351.html

 

I found some of the U-pol for $16 a can.

Thanks for the heads up on the stuff. Glad i didn't spend $30 on the 3M stuff.

 

I found some of the U-pol for $16 a can.

Thanks for the heads up on the stuff. Glad i didn't spend $30 on the 3M stuff.

Good deal . That's a heck of a price. Now where to hide the can so you don't find the lil woman using it on some do-dad artsy project!!!

 

Make sure to post a follow-up as a product evaluation for the rest of us!!

 

Does it work well with TIG welding? (weld-through primers in general), I've used it with MIG with good success. The clean weld TIG thing always made me shy-away from using it.

 

eastwood has it

 

I know that Eastwood has it.



Hi EdMac

I know that Eastwood carrys the Weld-Thru II No.05917.

What I wanted to know is:

Just how does one use it if your doing a SHEET METAL BUTT JOINT.

Thanks anyway.
GOD BLESS

QUOTE: The more I deal with some people the more I love my pets . . . :laugh:

 

Weld thru primer is applied to pre-primed plate.
Pre primed plate is the best if you are working outdoors.
Pre primed plate is used in the boatbuilding industry. It is very labor saving because when the boat hull is ready for sandblasting only the welded areas need blasting.
The pre primed plate is well worth the extra cost.
Just cleaning up all the sand is a real chore.

TIG is not suited for welding thru primer. The burning gases can cause the arc to wander.