New to me 1947 Doall V26 Bandsaw

[psacustomcreations]

Two weeks ago just as the huge snowstorm was hitting the area there was an online auction at an out of business machinery repair site for a large cast surfacing table I was interested in buying to use as a welding table. There was also this Doall saw that I was curious about since I have a cheap and smaller Dayton metal saw. I bid a few times on the table but wasn't paying attention and ended up not winning but it sold for only $105. I put in a bid on this saw at the opening price of $500 not really expecting to win. The storm really did a number on this area and it looks like not many people ended up bidding. I won the saw for $500 and with the fees and rigging, ended up spending $685.

I knew it was big, but when I picked it up yesterday I found out how big it really is. I ended up using round bar as rollers and between that and a come along to stop it from moving too much, I slowly inched it off the trailer.

Once I got it on the ground I started cleaning it up and checking it out before trying to hook it up. I knew it needed 3 phase 220V and I was hoping my VFD would be able to handle it. After hooking the VFD straight to the motor to make sure there were no switches in between I turned the VFD on but it threw a fault code. It looks like the motor may have been wired for 440V. The owner of the location had died and his "friends" had already started stripping the warehouse soI was not able to verify when I picked it up if it was wired for 440V or 220V.

I called Doall today and they were able to email me the manual and parts diagrams. I will take a look at them this weekend and see if I am able to make some headway on it. If nothing else, I will spend some more time cleaning it up and seeing what I need to fix or replace.

Realistically, I will end up putting it up for sale on Craigslist. I don't want to have to buy a rotary phase converter even though I realize now I probably should have bought that instead of the VFD. I run my 2HP Bridgeport off the VFD so I was hoping the VFD would be able to handle this 1-1/2HP motor. Between the power requirements and the size, it is too much saw for my shop.

[forhire]

Does the motor or manual show how to wire for 220V service? Shouldn't be to hard. My Do-All was wired for 440V when I bought it. The motor had to be re-wired as per the HI-LO nameplate on the motor. The control transformer had to have a couple wires swapped. And I think I may have changed a contactor coil... but that was a long time ago. In any case your 2 HP rated VFD should do the 1.5HP motor if you have it wired for the correct voltage. You may have to adjust your ramps if it's kicking a code but the code should lend a clue.

[psacustomcreations]

Does the motor or manual show how to wire for 220V service? Shouldn't be to hard. My Do-All was wired for 440V when I bought it. The motor had to be re-wired as per the HI-LO nameplate on the motor. The control transformer had to have a couple wires swapped. And I think I may have changed a contactor coil... but that was a long time ago. In any case your 2 HP rated VFD should do the 1.5HP motor if you have it wired for the correct voltage. You may have to adjust your ramps if it's kicking a code but the code should lend a clue.

Thanks for the advice.
There is no HI-LO plate that I saw so far on the motor. I am attaching a few pics to show what I am working with. I did a few searches for the motor but haven't found much yet. I will keep looking for info on it. I have a Hitachi WJ-200 VFD I am using. I am obviously not an electrician, so as I understand it I need to remove the start/stop switch so the VFD can function properly. The manual from Doall shows that it was wired for 220V from the factory.

I will spend some time today working on this and cleaning it up more. I know I need to make a few repairs and seeing what else I need to do.

[rhunt]

Nice saw, I see where it originally cam with the blade welder/grinder but was removed at some point. Too bad but still, really nice saw. Should be easy to get back in service looking at your pictures. Bob

[psacustomcreations]

She is alive! Once I started troubleshooting the problem I found out it was the extension cord. I moved the saw and connected it straight to the VFD and she started right up. The default ramp up and down speed is 10 seconds and that seems to be fine

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[forhire]

She is alive! Once I started troubleshooting the problem I found out it was the extension cord. I moved the saw and connected it straight to the VFD and she started right up. The default ramp up and down speed is 10 seconds and that seems to be fine

Congratulations! That saw will serve you well.

[psacustomcreations]

Congratulations! That saw will serve you well.

Thanks. Now comes the tough part, trying to decide whether to keep the Doall and sell the cheap Dayton saw I have or sell the Doall and make a nice profit. If I sell the Doall I figure I should be able to make $1000 off it.

Not trying to suck up but I look at the threads you, Pugs and a few others make in order to learn about the machinery and work you do. I know I will never be as good as you guys but I try to learn a little bit with each thread.

[ford91exploder]

Sell the Dayton saw and keep the DoAll, With the DoAll you will be able to rough out parts for welding and machining things that took hours of machining to hog out you can pre-cut on the DoAll and you will vastly increase your productivity and profitability

[psacustomcreations]

I am going to end up keeping it. Once I squeezed the saw in next to the Bridgeport it looks like it is in a good spot. The Dayton saw is between the two for a size comparison.

[zapster]

We have pretty much the same saw where I am...

Why is there a plate where the on off buttons go?

Ours also has a blade cutter/welder with grindstone where said plate is...

How do you start and stop it?

The off button sticks way out for easy shut off on a panic situation like your arm is getting sawed off...
Ours also has a pulley / cable weight set up for auto feeding of really thick steel....


...zap!

[psacustomcreations]

We have pretty much the same saw where I am...

Why is there a plate where the on off buttons go?

Ours also has a blade cutter/welder with grindstone where said plate is...

How do you start and stop it?

The off button sticks way out for easy shut off on a panic situation like your arm is getting sawed off...
Ours also has a pulley / cable weight set up for auto feeding of really thick steel....


...zap!

The blade welder was removed by one of the previous owners. When they did that they relocated the on/off to the side on the right near the light and chip blower.
I would like to replace the blade welder one of these days.
This one also has the counter weight as a feed mechanism.

In order to start and stop it I control the power from the VFD. That is located behind the saw. Not ideal at all for a panic situation. My goal is to run a remote panel from the VFD with the panic switches. I had plans to do that, a speed control, jog, etc for the mill but never got around to it.

I need to do more research on how to have both the mill and saw connected to the VFD but only send power to the one I am using.

[zapster]

Put the on off in FRONT.

No excuses.


...zap!

[psacustomcreations]

Put the on off in FRONT.

No excuses.


...zap!

Understood.

[zapster]

Good.

That thing ain't no toy like the other one...

Could save a finger.. Hand someday.


...zap!

[psacustomcreations]

I sold the Dayton saw today. I had bought it in an online Government auction for $274 last October and sold it today for $475.