Weldanpower AC/DC Tune Up and "Restoration"

[njs552]

I just purchased a Weldanpower AC/DC with the Briggs engine for $200 off CL. I don't think this has the CV tap option but the control plate is faded in just the wrong spots so I can't really tell. I think it is in pretty good condition considering. They story I got from the guys who had it was it was on a service truck before they bought it and they just used it around their place for odd jobs.

The engine sounds strong, and it welds good. Burned 1/8 6010 and 7018 nicely, and everything seemed good except the idle control - which I knew about before hand. For some reason the idle control solenoid is not working. We had to manually push the throttle to high idle it when I was testing it. Upon further inspection a piece of the solenoid might be missing. I still need to do some more research and troubleshooting. Have not tested or measured AC power output yet.

Code: 8705 and SN: A-995212. If I am interpreting that right this is a 1982 unit.

My plan is to fix it up a little, repaint as many parts as I can, and then put it on trailer. Then maybe I can get a small mobile welding side business going.

I am probably going to need some help from you guys since I don't have much experience with small engines or engine drive welders.

This is on my to-do list so far:
-Fix idle solenoid issue
-new battery
-change oil, air filter, spark plug, plug wire
-add a fuel filter(unless I just missed seeing one before) and clean out fuel tank
-adjust and/or rebuild carb
-repaint as much as I can
-new decals and plates if I can get them

[njs552]

Does anyone know what the OCV is at low idle on this welder? I meaured 55v OCV and 76vAC on the plugs at low idle. Does that sound right? I know high idle is 80v max.

Also, what is the best way to fix all the slop in the idle/throttle control linkages? The holes are all wallowed out, so I was thinking of welding and re drilling them.


Idle problems:
While the switch is in the 'auto' position output is 12v from idler board. When the switch is in the 'high' idle position there is no output.

When I hook the solenoid up to the idler board it doesnt do anything. It is almost like the output from the idler board is not strong enough.

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[Pipeliner]

Does anyone know what the OCV is at low idle on this welder? I meaured 55v OCV and 76vAC on the plugs at low idle. Does that sound right? I know high idle is 80v max.

Also, what is the best way to fix all the slop in the idle/throttle control linkages? The holes are all wallowed out, so I was thinking of welding and re drilling them.


Idle problems:
While the switch is in the 'auto' position output is 12v from idler board. When the switch is in the 'high' idle position there is no output.

When I hook the solenoid up to the idler board it doesnt do anything. It is almost like the output from the idler board is not strong enough.

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Off the top of my head real quick, yes the OCV at idle sounds correct.

If I remember correctly the holes aren't necessarily sloppy, there is a plastic bushing that goes in the hole, then the rod.

[duaneb55]

If you don't already have it, you can download the unit Operator's Manual here:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...oln3/im308.pdf


The reason the low idle OCV isn't listed on the faceplate or in the manual is because this value is irrelevant. You're not going to be using the machine for anything at low idle other than saving a little gas and taking it easy on your ears. That being said, the low idle speed spec is 1850RPM +/- 50RPM.

High idle no-load speed is 3750RPM and if a handheld tachometer is not available to check this, a digital meter device called Kill-A-Watt can be used to measure the frequency at one of the 120VAC outlets which should be between 62-62.5Hz with no load. The Kill-A-Watt can be purchased at any Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight or many online sources for under $20.


On the idler issue, check the resistance across the idler coil to check for an open winding. I forget the exact spec resistance but an OL reading would indicate a failed coil.

[njs552]

Off the top of my head real quick, yes the OCV at idle sounds correct.

If I remember correctly the holes aren't necessarily sloppy, there is a plastic bushing that goes in the hole, then the rod.

Thanks Pipeliner! You are spot on. There is a brass bushing on the carb throttle linkage, but they are missing in the other linkage.

I will look into getting something to replace them.





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[njs552]

If you don't already have it, you can download the unit Operator's Manual here:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...oln3/im308.pdf


The reason the low idle OCV isn't listed on the faceplate or in the manual is because this value is irrelevant. You're not going to be using the machine for anything at low idle other than saving a little gas and taking it easy on your ears. That being said, the low idle speed spec is 1850RPM +/- 50RPM.

High idle no-load speed is 3750RPM and if a handheld tachometer is not available to check this, a digital meter device called Kill-A-Watt can be used to measure the frequency at one of the 120VAC outlets which should be between 62-62.5Hz with no load. The Kill-A-Watt can be purchased at any Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight or many online sources for under $20.


On the idler issue, check the resistance across the idler coil to check for an open winding. I forget the exact spec resistance but an OL reading would indicate a failed coil.

Thanks duane!

I did lookup the manual for the welder and the Briggs engine. Great info in there. But thanks for the link.

I will pickup one of the Kill-A-Watt meters. That is a great idea.

The solenoid coil meaures 18 ohms. When I apply 12v from the battery directly to it, it seems to work just fine. Just when I hook it up to the idle board it is not nearly as strong.



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[Pipeliner]

There is a brass bushing on the carb throttle linkage....

I think they're just yellow(ed) plastic.

[njs552]

I think they're just yellow(ed) plastic.

I just took a little closer and you're right. Thanks!

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[Pipeliner]

Mine is a bit older than yours. Here's a little motivation and an idea of what can be done. Mine looked like yours, however it had not ran in many years. I wasn't sure it would be worth the effort to fool with, but in the end it turned out to be a great little welder.

[njs552]

Mine is a bit older than yours. Here's a little motivation and an idea of what can be done. Mine looked like yours, however it had not ran in many years. I wasn't sure it would be worth the effort to fool with, but in the end it turned out to be a great little welder.

Wow! You did an excellent job pipeliner! I can only hope mine turns out half as good as yours has. I wondered where the battery went. I guess I am missing that whole box.

Where did you get the warning labels and decals?

What color and type of paint is that? I picked up a couple cans from home depot, but they don't really match either of the idealarcs I compared them too. One is pretty close to the good paint on the Weldanpower though.

Rustoleum "Regal Red" (Left) and "Sunrise Red" (Right) on the right. Of those two Regal Red seems to be a better match.

[Pipeliner]

Seymour MRO Safety Red. It was advertised on the can as 4 in 1 (compared to regular spray cans I guess). I'm not sure I squeezed 4 out of 1, but definitely more than 2 1/2. It takes forever to dry so if patience isn't one of your strengths I'd try something else. Otherwise it's good stuff. I'm not sure how close it is to original, but I was just going for 'red' considering how bad it looked before.

The labels came from Welder Parts and Service. I think I got the Lincoln decals from PL Welder. There's a tiny number on the bottom corner of each label. Look them up using those numbers.

My thoughts on your battery tray are: yes, it's all missing plus a few inches of the frame rails. I'd imagine it was formerly on a service truck, had to fit in a smaller footprint so they chopped it and probably wired it direct off the truck.

[duaneb55]

njs552,

In the absence of a tachometer, one can use the frequency function of the Kill-A-Watt to set RPM. The only thing one needs to know is if the generator is a 2-pole or 4-pole. 2-pole units run at 3600PRM (yours) and 4-pole obviously half that at 1800RPM.

To calculate RPM based on AC frequency:
2-pole, RPM = (Hz x 120) / 2
4-pole, RPM = (Hz x 120) / 4


However, the Kill-A-Watt will only read down to mid 40Hz and will then cut out which means it won't work for setting your low idle speed of 1850RPM +/-50.

[njs552]

Seymour MRO Safety Red. It was advertised on the can as 4 in 1 (compared to regular spray cans I guess). I'm not sure I squeezed 4 out of 1, but definitely more than 2 1/2. It takes forever to dry so if patience isn't one of your strengths I'd try something else. Otherwise it's good stuff. I'm not sure how close it is to original, but I was just going for 'red' considering how bad it looked before.

The labels came from Welder Parts and Service. I think I got the Lincoln decals from PL Welder. There's a tiny number on the bottom corner of each label. Look them up using those numbers.

My thoughts on your battery tray are: yes, it's all missing plus a few inches of the frame rails. I'd imagine it was formerly on a service truck, had to fit in a smaller footprint so they chopped it and probably wired it direct off the truck.

That's interesting. Last night I ran across a thread where someone said the Rustoleum Safety Red was pretty close. Maybe I ought to find a can of that somewhere or the Seymour MRO Safety Red. Patience isn't exactly one of my strong suits... but on the other hand yours looks pretty darn nice so I might have to just slow myself down a little when it comes time to paint.

Do you have a thread on your restoration? Did you separate the engine and take everything apart to paint?

njs552,

In the absence of a tachometer, one can use the frequency function of the Kill-A-Watt to set RPM. The only thing one needs to know is if the generator is a 2-pole or 4-pole. 2-pole units run at 3600PRM (yours) and 4-pole obviously half that at 1800RPM.

To calculate RPM based on AC frequency:
2-pole, RPM = (Hz x 120) / 2
4-pole, RPM = (Hz x 120) / 4


However, the Kill-A-Watt will only read down to mid 40Hz and will then cut out which means it won't work for setting your low idle speed of 1850RPM +/-50.

Thanks for the info. I knew there would be a logical way to go about figuring that out.

I figure I might as well get a tachometer so I can set low idle and confirm the high idle once I get the solenoid working.

I'm thinking about picking one of these up: http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...ter-66632.html

[spitfireflyr]

Are you running it with the battery connected? I know on riding mowers with electric clutches, blade won't engage without the battery. Not enough current from the on board charger. Just a thought.

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[Pipeliner]

Are you running it with the battery connected? I know on riding mowers with electric clutches, blade won't engage without the battery. Not enough current from the on board charger. Just a thought.

Spitfireflyr makes a good point. I know if you remove the ammeter from the circuit the auto idle function won't work on a Weldanpower. And I've got an older Miller Trailblazer the auto idle won't work without a battery connected. Before you go tearing into too much try it with a battery.

One other thing, my switches were stiff and dirty. When I'd flip the auto idle switch it would do all sorts of crazy things at random. I used contact cleaner and worked the switches and it fixed the problem. But try leaving the battery on it first.

[njs552]

Are you running it with the battery connected? I know on riding mowers with electric clutches, blade won't engage without the battery. Not enough current from the on board charger. Just a thought.

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Spitfireflyr makes a good point. I know if you remove the ammeter from the circuit the auto idle function won't work on a Weldanpower. And I've got an older Miller Trailblazer the auto idle won't work without a battery connected. Before you go tearing into too much try it with a battery.

One other thing, my switches were stiff and dirty. When I'd flip the auto idle switch it would do all sorts of crazy things at random. I used contact cleaner and worked the switches and it fixed the problem. But try leaving the battery on it first.

Yes I do have a battery on it. Threw an old optima blue top on it for now.

So if the ammeter and/or charging circuit isnt working that would cause the auto idle circuit to not work also?

I dont think the ammeter is functioning the needle is broken off part way and it just reads in the middle all the time.

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[Pipeliner]

So if the ammeter and/or charging circuit isnt working that would cause the auto idle circuit to not work also?

I can't remember if I had the old one completely out or if I had the new one hooked up backwards, but no, the auto idle wouldn't work.

[njs552]

Well somebody has been in here before I think. Two QDs on the leads to the transformer and some other splices.

In other news there is some gas in the oil. I will have to flush the oil a couple times and get that cleaned up.







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[njs552]

I disconnected the solenoid wires and meaured the idler board outputs (214 and 215). With the engine running, switch in auto idle, I am continually getting 12v 10sec or so after startup. If i flip the switch to high idle I get nothing on 214 and 215.

That doesnt sound right to me. I think the 12v should be applied when the switch is flipped to the high position instead of the other way around.

Anyone know whats going on here?

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[Pipeliner]

I think that sounds right actually. You're energizing the magnet to pull the idler paddle to it; reducing it to low idle. Then when you flip the switch to high idle or strike an arc or use grinder it releases magnet and the paddle releases moving throttle to fast.

[duaneb55]

It's working right. The idler coil is energized to bring the engine to low idle and de-energized for high idle (weld/power) speed.

With the idler switch in AUTO, the board gets 12VDC(+) on wire #213 which passes thru diode D1 on the board to wire #214. Wire #214 supplies 12VDC(+) to the idler solenoid and after the preset delay time of approximately 10-12 seconds with no weld or auxiliary power load, wire #215 goes to ground which provides 12VDC(-) to the idler solenoid to energize it and bring the engine to low idle.

[njs552]

Thanks. That makes sense - however something must be up with the throttle linkages because it works exactly backwards of that.

When I pull the idler paddle towards the solenoid (like it should do for low idle) the engine throttles up. When I let the idler paddle move away from the solenoid, the engine idles down.

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[njs552]

Heres a video.



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[ok_state_sticks]

Hey good luck on your restoration. These are good units and I did a restoration on mine not to long ago. If red isn't your style you can always think a bit more abstract like I did for my weldanpower

[ok_state_sticks]

Also if you need parts for the engine they are readily available for this unit if you download a parts manual off the briggs website.