Here is what I purchased for my home shop. I love it for storing metric on one side and SAE on the other. Works very well. At work we use Fastenal on our shop floor. They supply and manage the bins/stock and reorder for us. Might be too much for a small shop but maybe give them a call and see what they can do.

http://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage/part-storage/74-bin-mobile-double-sided-floor-rack-62269.html
On Mothers Day you can use the 25% coupon and get it for under 100 bucks.

 

Thats not super flimsy?

 

http://www.qualitynutandbolt.org/4.html these guys have worked for us 5, 10 lb packaging

 

This is what I did...I don't keep "bulk" so to speak, but I don't throw anything away. This allows me to keep some resemblance of order in my mess. It's an old map file from work. Not sure it will be feasible for you, but it might spark some ideas.

 

Lanse, you might browse this site: http://www.asmc.net/

"Alex71" used to post good deals for fasteners on Practical Machinist. Looks like he's built up a full-time business but still worth a look see. Looks like he started out like you, just needed a good assortment of stuff on hand for his own projects: http://www.asmc.net/about-us/

And don't forget the bolt holes:

 

I only have on hand what I have collected over the years. I base my projects on what I have. Special order what you need.

It matters little what you have on hand as something odd always comes up. That happens with everything and I don't know a way around it.

Taps and reamers come quickly to mind as things I have too many off but still don't have them all.

 

Bowman.

 

Nuts..
Bolts..
Allen screws...
Set screws...
Shoulder bolts....
Threaded rod..
Washers..
Lock Washers..
Standards from 00-20 to 1"
Metric..All sizes...
Black oxide finish..
Galvy finish..
Stainless...

They are all in there somewhere.



...zap!

 

Because of the absurd, out-of-control, predatory legal system we have in this country, you might want to know that there might be a related liability issue.

Many decades ago I went through an outboard motor service school, and the instructor referred to this in one lecture. "You know those cans of odd fasteners that you've saved new, or stripped off of boneyard motors?", he asked us. Yeah, we all had them. "Well, throw them out, or take them home for your own use," he continued. "Never put them on a customer motor. There's always a chance your customer, through no fault of yours, and having neglected maintenance, and using a tank of two year old pre-mix that he hasn't shaken up, will have a engine failure after which he drifts on to the rocks, falls out of the boat, and drowns. His widow's lawyer will learn that you worked on his engine that failed. If he finds that you put any non-factory parts, even perfectly good fasteners, on the engine, he will have you by the short curlies. 'Are YOU a manufacturer?," he will ask; 'Do YOU know more than the manufacturer of the engine that failed?!! What else did YOU do to the engine that failed??!!'"
Your best defense in court will be an invoice with part numbers, including every fastener, every sealant, every lubricant. YOU know that you can buy NON-factory-labeled fasteners and sealants, and so forth that will work perfectly well and are far cheaper than ordering this stuff from the factory. But it could end up costing you dearly if a lawyer gets his hooks into you. That was one lecture that I've never forgotten.

Our legal system stinks, but it is the reality we all have to cover our fannies against. And I almost hate to say so, but in some respects it does have the good effect of making us think about how we do things. The state of the fastener industry is something of a scandal, with crappy foreign-made fasteners being sold all over, sometimes even by formerly trustworthy American companies even though they are trying to deal with it. This is an awful problem for the aircraft industry, for one, and in my town Boeing has to be very vigilant about non-spec fasteners getting into their jetliners. Letting Harbor Freight alone, fasteners from ANY ordinary hardware store are suspect. A bolt from Lowes or Home Depot purporting to be "Grade 8" has the right head markings, but that DOES NOT mean that it's a real Grade 8. Who knows what the QC was in the Chinese factory, who knows how well the metallurgy or the thread-rolling or the heat-treat was done? When these hardware store "Grade 8" bolts have been tested, they are all over the place, sometimes way-soft, sometimes extra-strong but brittle.

I don't know anybody's particular business situation here, but thought I should mention this as a factor someone here might need to consider. Probably anybody here can make good judgements on which applications will be fine with any old fastener, which projects should get trustworthy fasteners, and which might need a paper trail as with marine and aircraft work. In this town, Seattle, the problem of cheapo fasteners even makes the evening news occasionally, so blue-collar guys here tend to be a little more aware of it.

And of course then there's the subject of bearings. And auto/truck parts like U-joints (ask your local machine shop owner about the quality of parts he has to work with nowdays, and then stand well back!). And on and on it goes.

 

If this subject is of interest, here's a good book by Carroll Smith, an engineer and career auto racing builder/tuner/mechanic. This was written before the cheapo foreign fasteners had become as ubiquitous as they are now, but you might still find it an interesting and worthwhile reference book to own. And if you are a motorsport racer or rodder at all, Carroll Smith has done several other good books.

http://www.amazon.com/Fasteners-Plumbing-Handbook-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0879384069

The engine builders here, pro or amateur, will surely all know about rod-bolts, studs, and other fasteners made by A.R.P., and if anyone has a particular fastener situation that's critical, if ARP happens to have it, you couldn't do much better. Military and aircraft-grade A.N.-numbered fasteners used to be a safe bet, but as Boeing and others know, there are a lot of fakes, so check out your source.

 

. . . (probably 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4") . . .

You left out the popular 5/16" and 7/16" diameters and unless you use a lot of 5/8" and 3/4" you might want to think about reserving those (or at least 3/4") as you grow or purchase as needed based on specific project needs.

I would recommend 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16" & 1/2" for starters with lock nuts, standard nuts, lock washers and flat washers (I prefer SAE over USS) of each size.

You may find your needs differ but for lengths I would suggest the following - again for starters"
1/4" - 1/2", 3/4" 1", 1-1/4" 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3"
5/16" - 3/4", 1", 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3"
3/8" - Same as 5/16"
7/16"- 1", 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3"
1/2" - Same as 7/16"

If short on storage capacity or budget keep in mind that 1-1/4" long bolts are typically threaded all the way to the head and can be cut down if shorter lengths are required. However, if you found yourself cutting down on a regular basis you should increase your shorter size inventory.

And then there's matter of coarse and fine thread but I would put in a coarse thread selection first and build as needed.

 

This list is pretty close to what I keep on hand.

 

I forgot to add that whoever you decide to purchase your bulk fasteners from, request country of origin and proof test documentation before purchasing.

I used to purchase all my fasteners (as well as other products) from Mechanic's Choice back when all the counterfeit hardware was rushing onto the scene and tank turrets were falling off due to failed fasteners. It was interesting to see how easily the competitors fasteners failed the torque strain test for a particular grade and the MC products would pass with flying colors. All their fasteners were certified manufactured in the US with some SS in Canada.

That was some 25+ years ago and I don't know how it is with them today but the point is if a supplier won't/can't provide these basic documents then move on to the next one.

 

I would get the assortment with the 40 or 60 hole bin. There are numerous sellers on eBay. Once you know what you are using the most of, but in bulk. TSC and many hardware stores will sell boxes at a reduced price.

 

@ Lanse - try The Nutty Company. Fastener Assortment Kits, Made in USA.

 

Here it's called TSC, in the USA it's TSC the tractor supply company


They sell UNC fasteners by the pound in all the common sizes you mentioned and they keep a pretty good inventory
They go on sale every other month

it's pretty easy to pick up a few of these, a few of those, a few of those and build it up over time.



They also sell those wall unit boxes,



Although I don't like those wall shelves.
Wall space is pretty precious
It's too easy to throw odd crap in the wrong hole, especially if it's not you keeping it clean.

I hate the dust that lies in open shelves, it sticks to oil, then attracts moisture, then rust.



I use file cabinets I buy surplus, craigs list etc.
I keep screws in plastic peanut butter jars, standardized lids, full openings, plastic no glass, continuous supply
One size per jar, nuts in a separate jar, flat washers separate, lock washer separate


I don't use 7/16 or 5/16 it's too easy to go to up one size

I don't stock much in the big stuff like 3/4" just a few, no need to carry a fifty pound box of each size, draw, calculate, order= build what you need
Just keep a few around to cover necessities and late night engineering.

 

As The Count said..

TSC is one of the cheapest places on the planet to get bulk nuts and bolts. General use stuff anyways. I have a couple old indexes I use for bolts and stuff.

IMHO of course

 

I would go in the smaller sizes get a good range on lengths one those 1/4,5/16,3/8,7/16,and 1/2, any larger than those you can always purchase when needed and buy extras of those at the same time. At first order the nuts and washers would be to order half of the bolts order of a give size( you order 400 1/4 bolt of varying lengths order only 200 nuts washers and lock washers. After a little while you will see what you use the most of and add those to your list to get.

Most suppliers of fasteners will give you a discount if they see you buying on a regular bases or a larger order. With larger type of orders like for stocking for your supplies. Some use to supply a bin cabinet for those who use their products. I would ask at the time of the order if they still do that or not has a freebie.

 

Tsc and other purveyors of bulk fasteners typically sell grade 2. Alright for fence building, but I ain't putting it in anything moving down the highway. Grade 5 is a decent compromise and will cover 90% of your needs. Grade 8 has its place, but unless you have regular call for it, probably not worth stocking.

Duane said it well! Still lots of questionable hardware on the market so be sure you get documentation.

Fastenal, KAR Products, Tifco, and several others are a phone call away. Good bolts cost money son so just get your billfold out and start counting out hundreds unless you want to step up to AN Grade close tolerance aircraft and then make it thousands.

Get a decent bin system, having inventory is meaningless if you cannot readily access it. Charge for every bolt, washer, and nut unless you like giving money away.

 

Tsc and other purveyors of bulk fasteners typically sell grade 2. Alright for fence building, but I ain't putting it in anything moving down the highway. Grade 5 is a decent compromise and will cover 90% of your needs. Grade 8 has its place, but unless you have regular call for it, probably not worth stocking.

.

The stuff I get is galvanized green, so it sticks out vs all the other fasteners you have.

It's all grade 5, it's marked grade 5, it acts like grade 5

You can get traceable paperwork to the manufacturer if it's important to you .



Carriage bolts are grade 2, but that's the spec for carriage bolts.


They sell Grade 8 and metric stuff too, but it's one at a time, packaged and pricey.

 

Tsc and other purveyors of bulk fasteners typically sell grade 2. Alright for fence building, but I ain't putting it in anything moving down the highway. Grade 5 is a decent compromise and will cover 90% of your needs. Grade 8 has its place, but unless you have regular call for it, probably not worth stocking.

Duane said it well! Still lots of questionable hardware on the market so be sure you get documentation.

Fastenal, KAR Products, Tifco, and several others are a phone call away. Good bolts cost money son so just get your billfold out and start counting out hundreds unless you want to step up to AN Grade close tolerance aircraft and then make it thousands.

Get a decent bin system, having inventory is meaningless if you cannot readily access it. Charge for every bolt, washer, and nut unless you like giving money away.

 

Tsc and other purveyors of bulk fasteners typically sell grade 2. Alright for fence building, but I ain't putting it in anything moving down the highway. Grade 5 is a decent compromise and will cover 90% of your needs. Grade 8 has its place, but unless you have regular call for it, probably not worth stocking.

I almost never buy butter bolts from box stores. Everything I buy is grade 5 or grade 8 typically.

 

It's hard to beat McMaster Carr. I can get most hardware in a day or so. Try to plan ahead just a little. They also have certified fasteners for more critical things.

I have more than dozen plastic boxes with the smaller grade 8 bolts from 1/4 to 1/2 inch both NC and SAE. I also have several plastic boxes with number screws. I have very little grade 5 stuff. It's usually left over and came with a project.

Metric is pretty slim. I usually plan ahead and order it.

I hate going to the hardware store as you noted.

Fastenall has a fastener program where they come by periodically or even self ordering to service a fastener cabinet. In fact I think they even supply the cabinet as it self orders as you use fasteners. It can be as big as you want.

 

It's hard to beat McMaster Carr.

I'm a fan of McMaster.com too. They don't show you the freight cost until you check out, though. A bit of a buzz kill.

 

I use lawson bolts they can supply the bins that stack on top of each other and are designed for all the different bolts and they come to the shop once a month and restock works for me

 

I don't buy one or two of anything, I buy by the hand full and/or pound or box. If you're at a hardware store, buy a hand full of something you don't need, it'll save a trip when you do need 'em.

 

TSC carries a good selection of grade 5 and 8 nuts and bolts.

 

We carry sae bolts 1/4-1" dia up to 6"long by 1/2" lengths most are grade 5 with some grade eight. Also have metric from m4 to m20 up to 120mm grade 8.8. Most come from Fastenal although fleet farm sells bulk grade 5 and 8. Have got 3-72 hole Fastenal bins.

 

Almost all my bolts and misc fasteners come from L&M fleet.
Welding rods and mig wire too

 

We get everything from Imperial supplies. When we switched from bowman they came in and but a barcode label on everything and gave us a scanner to reorder. Scan the barcode or enter a number from the catalogue and its ordered

 

I can't afford to drive 12 miles to the hardware store for a bolt or nut when I'm doing projects only to find out that they ran out of it a week ago. There is a Fastenal store almost next to our Lowe's where I can get anything I need more reasonably.