I used the esab 161. Technically it could be a 110 volt welder.
I've heard those things will darn near burn 1/4" rod on 110V, so those 3/16" rods you used shouldn't have been a problem for it. I used to use 3/16" rods with my Multimatic 200, but no matter how far I turned it down, it kept burning holes in 3/4" plate. I finally ended up clamping two 3/16" rods at a time in the stinger so I could get some control. One was a 6010 and the other was a 7018, that way I could put the root and cap in all in one pass.
Dear Lord, I think it's time for bed.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
I can always bring over my Century 90 wire feed if you need a real welder.
12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
Tube channel: https://youtube.com/@VPTfab
Not a whole lot done since Monday, due to work. Disconnected power and raised it a little higher
Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Sitting about 10" off the foundation now.
Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Hey Mike , YOU got it up 10 " !!!
Making progress!!
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
The actual raising doesn't take real long. Climbing around and over the bracing is a pain and will get worse until it's quite a bit higher.
Looking good!
Hopefully it isn't to windy once it is all the way up before the walls get built.
12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
Tube channel: https://youtube.com/@VPTfab
I have some plates with a eye welded to them. I will anchor them to the slab and then tie it down with come alongs. It does take a large amount of cribbing to support everything.
Setting the block walls will probably take more time than it was to raise the building. At least if I were to set the blocks . My grandfather was a stone mason, and his 3 sons (uncles) also took up the trade. I guess I took after the other side of the family, not too sharp with a mortar trowel.
Ernie F.
Sitting above the height for the blocks.
Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
How are you going to handle the utilities? I know you said you disconnected the electric, but how do you plan to reconnect that? And any other possible utilities like gas or water? Just curious. You seem to know what you are doing here...
-Dave
XMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
The existing power comes off the 200 amp main from the house. There is a 125 amp add on panel in the garage. The panel will get lowered so the feeder wires will be long enough. Before the conduit came thru lower and then into the bottom of the panel. It will be changed to come into the back of the panel, above the height of the block. The outlets will be lowered as well as additional 230 volt outlets added. Lighting is pretty good already, so a large junction box will be added in the ceiling to lengthen the wires in the ceiling. A few 110 outlets will also be added to the ceiling for drop lights. There is currently a good size heater , ceiling mounted, running on propane. This will be converted to natural gas, hard piped along the upper wall. I have to find out if I or the gas company has to do the entrance into the building. There is no water to the building.
Thats gonna be a tall man door!
12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
Tube channel: https://youtube.com/@VPTfab
Since it made it to this height relatively easy and I haven't received any nasty feedback from the village, I intend to go higher. 10' high door, 11'6" wall height to the finished ceiling. This would require 5 course of block. I have to lower the electrical anyway so not that much more work. The drawback will be the overly high windows, but I can live with that.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.
Tube channel: https://youtube.com/@VPTfab
I was guessing you might just lower the panel. Another option might be a cutoff box where the old wires can reach and leave the panel in place. Then you only have to stretch the feed wires by adding some between the cutoff box and the existing panel. Would save you from rewiring everything above the panel to lengthen wires. Of course it might make the panel too high to be reasonable, depending on where it ends up.
I was able to do all my gas plumbing in my house build. To my knowledge there is no state law against it, for an owner/occupant, so it might just come down to anything the local guys could be picky about.
-Dave
XMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled