Pict #1 looks like you are favoring one side over the other. The "upper" side in that pict looks like it's got a lot of cold lap while the other side ( "bottom") doesn't. My 1st guess is you are right handed and your stinger isn't pointed straight into the weld. As you go you long arc on the left side flattening the bead, and short arc the right where the rod is closer to the plates so it's welding cold.

I'd say your amps are too low at 95-100 myself. I'd go higher. I'd say you haven't yet learned to read the puddle. My stringers are run exactly the same way I do weaves, only my motions are very tiny, maybe 1/16" total side to side vs a weave that would be wider.

 

Thanks for the reply,

I've noticed my self getting off-center with the electrode before; I seem to do it without noticing. I'll work on keeping my weaving consistent across the joint.
I can read the puddle fine in other positions, but vertical i can't quite get that sucker under control yet. It seems the slag hides the puddle.

When you say your stringers are run like a very small weave, how long are you holding the sides? Or is it more of a steady wiggle back and forth?

 

I too think you’re to cold. You want 7018 to flow!

 

Now thats what I'm going for, consistent small ripples. What amperage was that run at?

 

When you're welding with 7018, you need to use less amperage when welding in the vertical position than you would use in the 1, 2, and 4 positions. Personally, I like 1/8" lo-hy at 105-110 in the vertical. For overhead and in-position welding, 125-140 is typical.

Yes, when you're welding on a flat plate, it's normal for the beads to rope up in the vertical, especially when you're learning. There's just nothing there to hold the weld.

You can make 100 amps work when you're in the vertical position; if your machine has an arc force control, try turning it up a little to help keep from sticking the rod.

You want to be careful with how much manipulation of the rod you use; if and when you start doing coded work, there are often limitations on how wide you can weave the bead. Depending on the application, they may require stringer beads only, which are normally defined as 2-2.5x the electrode diameter. Other times they won't care, but sometimes they do. Just be aware.

 

Thanks for the reply,

I've been hearing that about many codes requiring stringers, which is why I'm trying to get them down. If 2x electrode diameter is allowed that makes it a bit easier.

 

on plate 1/2" and up i run 1/8" 7018 at about 120 amps in the vertical position. flat welding i usually run about 150 amps. i like that s#it to burn in there good and hot.

 

Depending on thickness of material, I usually have my students put there roots in at about 110-112, hot pass, 112-115, from there on out, 117-120, 125 If you can handle it. I usually run my rods Hot n fast ( LIke my women).. Anything under 110 in my eyes is too cold for 1/8 7018 rods. So turn the heat up, hold the edges and watch the puddle flow. You want a nice smooth look when you're done. No butt cheeks or cleveage looking welds. lol

About the stringer vs weave, I have my students weave their welds all the way out. That's on 1nch testing plate. Some places will want you to run stringers, some will want you to weave, so get good at both..

 

I'd agree you're a little cold. I worked with a guy once that did vertical up at 100 amps but I tried it and it was really hard to keep an arc. He used a definite longer pause on the sides and had a very noticeable ladder steps like bead. There's more than 1 way to do vertical though. Another techinique is to use more amps and shorter pauses and a 3rd technique is to always keep the rod moving side to side. I think the technique in your 2nd pic (keep moving) would work better with more amps.

 

I run about 115 to 130 on vertical with 1/8th in rod and about 95 for 3/32

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