Brand X: 211i arrived today

[pat h]

Dan, have you ever tried lift-start TIG on that Thermal Arc 201TS at your workplace? If so, your thoughts?

Not to butt in had the 201 thermal arc the lift arc and high frequency start are way better and I mean way better than my dynasty more like my 150 sth maxstar which miller got right real smooth and stable

[Brand X]

Not to butt in had the 201 thermal arc the lift arc and high frequency start are way better and I mean way better than my dynasty more like my 150 sth maxstar which miller got right real smooth and stable

The 252i is like the Miller Shopmate I had.. Excellent lift-arc.. One thing about the low end of the 252i with a pedal. It will sometimes show 1 amp on meter tailing out.. So the low end is really good, and stable.. I only tested it a few minutes when I first got it, and never even tried the stick mode on it..I am sure it works as good as the rest of the processes.. I have my Esab 2200i ac/dc, if I am going to tig something anyway..
It also has a few neat features with only a button.. Dual schedule with the repeat mode gives you great control when using AC current.. Start on high amps, and fast click the button to lower the amps.. Then push the button to lower, and raise the current to keep it from running away from you . No real programing to get it to work really well..

[Dan]

Dan, have you ever tried lift-start TIG on that Thermal Arc 201TS at your workplace? If so, your thoughts?

The lift arc on the 201 is good . No stickiness to it. The downslope on the 201 is really good. The down slope timer spoils me, I use it all the time. No need to worry about feathering out the pedal, the down slope takes care of it for me.

[N2 Welding]

I was finally able to install the new to me 15' Fusion 250 gun with .030 wire and a knurled roller. I backed off the tension on the 8" roll of wire and I loosened the drive roller tension a lot as well. I played with it a bit and laid down a few beads on some 3" x 1/4" flat bar in both push and pull. I'm liking it a lot already. The 180 gun would have already been sputtering half way through these welds. This could have been attributed to drive role slippage after the gun heated up. I never really looked into why it was doing it.

I noticed when I was changing the .030 V drive Roller to the .030 Knurled Drive roller that there is some slop in the drive wheel. I am able to push the drive roller inwards towards the drive motor past where the wire feed out and inlets aligne with the V groove in the wheel. Now this has me wondering if this is normal if this could mean that there is a bushing missing or some other issue I am not aware of. I'll take a look at the motor parts diagram if I can find it.

All this makes me want to try welding 1/4" plate in butt, corner, lap, T and edge joints in flat horizontal and virtical positions. Once I feel good about my abilities to do that I will try to get a hold of some .035 Dual shield wire so I can get around to some of the projects I have been wanting to do for a while now.

[N2 Welding]

Looking at the parts Diagram there dose not seem to be any parts missing behind the Drive Roller. Does any one know if it's normal for play on the wheel to move past the wire Alignment?

[weldinON]

It's normal for there to be a bit of play there. Haven't seen any adverse affects to feeding because of it

[N2 Welding]

Thank you weldinOn.

I was playing with the machine and measuring wire feed inches per minute running the wire 6 seconds at a time per WTT.com vids and discovered my machine feeds any where from 5 - 15 inch per minute more than what the machine is set at. While doing this i discovered that play in the drive roller can come in handy while rewinding wire if knurled rollers are being used.

[Oscar]

I'd really like to give an inverter Millermatic 211 a try if the arc quality is good and the auto-set is at least in the ball park it could be a real nice unit to have around. If the auto-set does produce at least ball park results I'd use it for the times when I needed to get something welded up quickly.

The auto-set feature is great. It's not only in the ball-park, it has good seats.

[Oldendum]

... tailing out.. So the low end is really good, and stable.. I only tested it a few minutes ...

That what all the girls say about me. Is that good?

[N2 Welding]

That what all the girls say about me. Is that good?

Let me guess they come out sounding like a retard...

[rjacobs]

Got the knurled drive roller for the 252i. I have the tension set just about the first line like everybody says. Im about a full turn from being able to stop the wire with my gloved hand.

The 252i came with the -50f flush nozzle so I didnt order any, although I will order a few for some spares eventually along with some contact tips.

[Dan]

Looking at the parts Diagram there dose not seem to be any parts missing behind the Drive Roller. Does any one know if it's normal for play on the wheel to move past the wire Alignment?

Ideally there should be minimal end play. My 181i, 211i, Migmaster 250 , and Ironman 230 all have very little end play. The level of end play is no where near enough to put the groove in the drive roll out of align with the wire guides. In the drawing of your wire drive, on the left side of the key way, it looks like there may be a snap ring on the drive shaft.

[N2 Welding]

Ideally there should be minimal end play. My 181i, 211i, Migmaster 250 , and Ironman 230 all have very little end play. The level of end play is no where near enough to put the groove in the drive roll out of align with the wire guides. In the drawing of your wire drive, on the left side of the key way, it looks like there may be a snap ring on the drive shaft.

I'll have to put my readers on and have a closer look for a C clip or snap ring groove. I don't recall seeing one.

[N2 Welding]

OK took a closer look at the Drive system and there is no slot for a clip or snap ring behind the drive roll. I believe the fit is snug enough that it stays where it needs to be.