Building a car hauler. Have a couple questions.

[Jeff000]

I know this is to post my project, but it's just getting started and still have questions.
I bought plans for a "lightweight car hauler" from a farm supply place here. They call for 2x5x3/16 for the tongue, 2x4x1/8 for the main frame, and 2x3x1/8 for the cross bracing.

I'll start by saying I am an Industrial Electrician by trade, was a welder for a year, but 12 years ago now. I only plan on tacking the important bits and then getting a b pressure buddy to weld it out. I am confident in my welds for cross bracing and fenders, etc. (I was recently able to pass a CWB weld test, was slow in the field and working with a welder that let me weld up a coupon too)

My question are more on trailer design and slight modification.
First off the prints say to just butt up the square tubing to one another, but wouldn't cutting at a 45 be best, and then I wouldn't have to worry about capping it off?

I want to add something around the edge for straps, originally thinking of using some c channel for stake pockets, and then using flat iron on the outside of them all the way around, but that isn't exactly keeping with the lightweight. Any ideas?

I will be using this trailer primarily to pull my Jeep XJ around, so was thinking that doing something for easy strapping would be nice, was thinking some way to put a strap around the tires instead of strapping my axles, advice? ideas?

Being that I will be driving my jeep onto this trailer and it'll be in some not great areas I was thinking of protecting the tail lights somewhat, I was thinking just inset them into the tubing at the rear, but thinking that I would lose my sealed tubing and might compromise strength in that part. Is there a standard way to protect tail lights on a trailer without looking stupid?

Edit, one last thing, the design calls for bolting through the tubing to attach the safety chains. Is there a better way to do attach them? preferably that allows me to retain a sealed tube?

Thanks.
PS, cost of building is far cheaper than buying up here in Canada, mostly because I got a really great deal on axles.

[CEP]

Generally it is always best to bevel material before welding.
How about inserting your lights inside a piece of pipe. Welded to the tubing?

[leightrepairs]

They make straps that go over the wheels, try ETrailers.com

Mike

[welderj]

1/8" tube will be a rust through problem where you live. I would strongly suggeat 3/16" for everything, you won't be sorry. Make your rear tube 2x4x3/16" and put rubber mount lights in it like this.



Butt the tubes and in most cases leave the ends open. That doesn't look as nice as capped, but won't rust out as fast because they will dry out rather than hold moisture inside. If you do cap them, drill drain and vent holes to allow them to breath so they stay dry. It's very dificult to get tubes sealed good enough to prevent comdensation inside. Often times they will get enough water inside so that they will freeze and blow up the tube.

Jon

[Jeff000]

Generally it is always best to bevel material before welding.
How about inserting your lights inside a piece of pipe. Welded to the tubing?

I'll bevel all the welding edges for sure.
I was meaning more is it better to keep the ends of the tubing square and just butt them up, or 45 the end of the tubing so it makes a seamless sealed corner.

They make straps that go over the wheels, try ETrailers.com

Mike

Ya that is what I was thinking, more just not sure how to secure the ends, could I just weld something onto the 2x3 cross bars to hook the straps to, use a small access hole in my decking. Or should I use 2x4 for those cross bars?

1/8" tube will be a rust through problem where you live. I would strongly suggeat 3/16" for everything, you won't be sorry. Make your rear tube 2x4x3/16" and put rubber mount lights in it like this.

Butt the tubes and in most cases leave the ends open. That doesn't look as nice as capped, but won't rust out as fast because they will dry out rather than hold moisture inside. If you do cap them, drill drain and vent holes to allow them to breath so they stay dry. It's very dificult to get tubes sealed good enough to prevent comdensation inside. Often times they will get enough water inside so that they will freeze and blow up the tube.

Jon

Going all 3/16 will add a fair amount of weight, 200lbs or so. Might not seem like a lot. But will be towing with a SUV rated for 8800lbs. 3896lbs wet is my Jeep. Was trying to keep the trailer under 1400 lbs. I don't really notice a rust problem on my crappy tire special utility trailer, and it's 10 years old.

I was thinking sealed up would prevent rust the best, but now that you mention water blowing the tubs up I do recall seeing lots of trailers with rounded out square tubing parts. drain holes would be easy enough as capped looks way better.

On the topic of rust, should I spray the welds with cold galvanizing spray? Or just use some etching primer on the whole thing before paint?

[CEP]

45 the end of the tubing so it makes a seamless sealed corner.

It’s more work, but I like the looks of it. Looks professional!

[Bls repair]

Some tube has rounded corners. If you but up to it you may have to cope the cut to get a tight fit.

[KD Welding]

I would build the whole thing in channel if it were me. I see way to many tube chassis trailers that crack. Channel allows for twist and flex and won't trap moisture. Just another option. They're certainly a lot of tube trailers out there but I think you will find less issues overtime. Good luck with the project. One last thing to consider. I own and work for myself as a weldor. When I needed to get a good heavy duty trailer I couldn't build one for even close to what I was able to buy a super rugged one for that needed a face lift. So if your building it just cause you need it you might want to shop around. Specially as some states the trailer needed to be taken to a dot inspection station before they will issue you a vin. If you doing it because you need one and want to have fun with a project, than have a good time. Sounds to me like you know your limitations.

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[welderj]

I was thinking sealed up would prevent rust the best, but now that you mention water blowing the tubs up I do recall seeing lots of trailers with rounded out square tubing parts. drain holes would be easy enough as capped looks way better.

You need both drain holes on the bottom and vent holes on top to work well. Just small 1/4" holes are enough.

[Meltedmetal]

Princess Auto has these tie down systems.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/searc...=1&Ntt=e+track
http://www.princessauto.com/en/searc...tt=tire+straps

[cd19]

I'd find plans using channel, cheaper and nothing to trap rust. Channel will let the trailer flex where tubing is almost too rigid. Tubing has it's place but the love fest for it on this forum is excessive.

[Jeff000]

I'd find plans using channel, cheaper and nothing to trap rust. Channel will let the trailer flex where tubing is almost too rigid. Tubing has it's place but the love fest for it on this forum is excessive.

I would build the whole thing in channel if it were me. I see way to many tube chassis trailers that crack. Channel allows for twist and flex and won't trap moisture. Just another option. They're certainly a lot of tube trailers out there but I think you will find less issues overtime. Good luck with the project. One last thing to consider. I own and work for myself as a weldor. When I needed to get a good heavy duty trailer I couldn't build one for even close to what I was able to buy a super rugged one for that needed a face lift. So if your building it just cause you need it you might want to shop around. Specially as some states the trailer needed to be taken to a dot inspection station before they will issue you a vin. If you doing it because you need one and want to have fun with a project, than have a good time. Sounds to me like you know your limitations.

Trailers out of the states are so cheap. Up here finding a trailer that suits my needs is 2500 bucks used, and it'll need work to be what I want. I'll be into the axles for 200 bucks, and 500 into steel, then a couple hundred into consumables and 100 in misc. So calling it 1000 bucks, then 400 for a vin, which is a rip off. And then 100 bucks for something that I am sure I missed.

I also enjoy the project of it. I had thought about buying 3 trailers in the states when I go for a trip down there in october and selling 2 of them to make the 3rd one free for me, but it's just too much hassle and the extra fuel on the motorhome just doesn't make it worth it, but mostly I don't have the capital to fund the 3 trailers, lol.

I looked into building a heavy duty trailer, and it seems like they are cheaper to buy than build.


Now the idea of using C channel was one that I originally thought might be easier, but I can't find plans that shows a build with weight in mind. Everything was 6x10.5 construction, which adds a couple hundred lbs even if I went with 3/16 tube. But I feel like the plans I am seeing are all way over engineered or simply designed for much harder use than I plan on. If I used 5x6.7 I figure the weight would be about the same, steel costs would be lower though, and should be plenty strong. Just wish I could find definitive information on smaller channel strength for a trailer.

You need both drain holes on the bottom and vent holes on top to work well. Just small 1/4" holes are enough.

That makes sense.

Princess Auto has these tie down systems.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/searc...=1&Ntt=e+track
http://www.princessauto.com/en/searc...tt=tire+straps

That looks really great, I didn't know you could put e track on the deck, only ever seen it on walls. Would certainly make the trailer much more versatile.

[welderj]

I haven't seen anything on size and design on this trailer yet so there is no way to give any advice on that regard. Give some idea on what you have in mind and it would be easier to help.

[Jeff000]

I haven't seen anything on size and design on this trailer yet so there is no way to give any advice on that regard. Give some idea on what you have in mind and it would be easier to help.

16' deck. 2 x 3500lb axles. electric brakes. I'll be using 2x12 rough cut lumber for the deck instead of steel, and making a full deck, but just the only picture I could find.

[DC_Diego]

It’s more work, but I like the looks of it. Looks professional!

This always look professional and clean!!

[welderj]

That type trailer begs for channel frame. 4 or 5" main rails and 3" cross members.

[KD Welding]

I'm assuming the axles must be used for that price plus electric brakes. No price for lights, wiring, tire and rims,jack,paint anchor screws for decking, fenders,coupler, spare tire. My list to add to yours is over a grand. By no means am I discouraging the project but before your finished you will be near 3000.00 total. Not including your time. Trust me the numbers always look cheap and simple. Total everything up at the end the number will be very different.

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[Jeff000]

I'm assuming the axles must be used for that price plus electric brakes. No price for lights, wiring, tire and rims,jack,paint anchor screws for decking, fenders,coupler, spare tire. My list to add to yours is over a grand. By no means am I discouraging the project but before your finished you will be near 3000.00 total. Not including your time. Trust me the numbers always look cheap and simple. Total everything up at the end the number will be very different.

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Used axles, with tires and wheels with spare tire.
Wiring I have in the garage already. Lights aren't expensive. Decking I can get from work for free. Bolting the decking down with bolts I already have, if I use channel I even have the square washers that are thicker on on side to keep the nut flush. Fenders I'd like to make so should be not very expensive.

Literally the cheapest car hauler I can find around here is $3000 and weighs 700lbs more than I want my trailer to weigh. I can find a couple that are about right as far as weight, but 3800+.
None are dovetailed, or have securement that I am looking for.
If I look in the states I can find a nice trailer for $1600.

[Jeff000]

That type trailer begs for channel frame. 4 or 5" main rails and 3" cross members.

What weight 4 or 5" channel though?

[DSW]

Used axles, with tires and wheels with spare tire.
Wiring I have in the garage already. Lights aren't expensive. Decking I can get from work for free. Bolting the decking down with bolts I already have, if I use channel I even have the square washers that are thicker on on side to keep the nut flush. Fenders I'd like to make so should be not very expensive.

I'm with KD in that I think you are leaving a lot out when figuring price.

If used axles, what is the condition? At a minimum I'd be figuring new bearings and a complete rebuild on the brakes. If they have sat for a while, you may find the brakes are frozen and shot and the spindles junk. Do the axles come with springs, hangers, hardware? Condition? Here in the states, you'd also have to add the battery, electric break away gear to activate the brakes and so on. That with jack and coupler will add a couple hundred easy. You say "lights are cheap", but I bet you have at least $50 in lights minimum and more if you opt to go LED.

It all adds up really fast...

[Jeff000]

I'm with KD in that I think you are leaving a lot out when figuring price.

If used axles, what is the condition? At a minimum I'd be figuring new bearings and a complete rebuild on the brakes. If they have sat for a while, you may find the brakes are frozen and shot and the spindles junk. Do the axles come with springs, hangers, hardware? Condition? Here in the states, you'd also have to add the battery, electric break away gear to activate the brakes and so on. That with jack and coupler will add a couple hundred easy. You say "lights are cheap", but I bet you have at least $50 in lights minimum and more if you opt to go LED.

It all adds up really fast...

The axles and all related parts are from a 3 year old trailer, that has had light duty until it was rear ended a month ago. Axles are straight still. And undamaged. Reason for the deal on them is because it's a good friend and he wants to borrow it for his jeep every now and then. I could probably salvage some lights and other stuff from his trailer. The fenders are messed up from the dill hole that towed the trailer used a chain to tie down over the fenders.
The coupler and jack are under 100 each. I think the jack might still be good on the trailer too.

[welderj]

If your going to be borrowing it out you should go heavier, so the lightest 5" will work good. Borrowed trailers need to be tougher than owners trailers usually. And don't let the price people scare you away, there is a lot to be said about doing it yourself even if it costs a little more.

For fenders 10" mc channel works real well and is strong enough that most folks cant destroy it. But with those you need to make sure you support them propperly or the weight will rip them off just from the bouncing.

Jon