L-Tec PCM-VPi but it is said

[N2 Welding]

Ok Cleaned out the water separator and was able to adjust the flow psi to 75 psi. Cut up two parts today. Free hand cutting is not easy but using a crutch like a straight edge gives good enough for me quality cuts. A lot better than I can do with oxy acetylene.

[Rondo]

Looks good from here !

[N2 Welding]

Thanks I did not show the free hand cuts without any crutch. The free hand cuts are still ugly. I think I need to make a cutting table now. The hole is drilled out not plasma cut

[N2 Welding]

Here is what the free hand cuts look like

[Jawslandshark]

Free hand cuts are always difficult in my opinion. I got pretty decent at it before I had a cnc plasma table. I have actually improved some from learning how to make good cuts on the plasma table. Steady motion, piercing, knowing how to take corners, speed, lead in/lead outs and standoff all still are valid with hand cutting to make it nice. Don't ever drink and plasma cut, it really gets ugly then.

[N2 Welding]

Free hand cuts are always difficult in my opinion. Don't ever drink and plasma cut, it really gets ugly then.

LOL that's it. It's gotta be. I'm always indulging is some form of relaxer usually the liquid form. Yes I was drinking when I cut those as well as squatting and trying to steady my self with one knee on the ground and the other as a prop for my stabililzing arm. I am having fun learning that is for sure.

[Brand X]

Use the trigger lock.. It will loosen your grip on the torch,and make things flow better. You can use it on very small cuts too..The cnc cutter does help you understand what it takes for a great cut.

PS- i would guess too much coffee, and not enough allky with your cuts..

[N2 Welding]

Use the trigger lock.. It will loosen your grip on the torch,and make things flow better. You can use it on very small cuts too..The cnc cutter does help you understand what it takes for a great cut.

PS- i would guess too much coffee, and not enough allky with your cuts..

I will try the trigger lock. I have been scared since it is HF that the machine will do all kinds of stuff if I don't get the arc to start and stay lit on the initiation of the cut.

Well I don't drink coffee so Hmm...

[Brand X]

Just press the button again....

[N2 Welding]

Made some more cuts yesterday on 3/16" 2.5x2.5 tubing and was very impressed with the cut quality. I am getting better and stocking up on consumables. Sticking with Original ESAB Electrodes and Nozzles.

So I have been having moisture in the air lately and noticed it on both the water trap on my compressor and at the plasma machine. Started looking online for the Motor Guard filters every one raves about. Would the 1/4" NPT Motor Guard M-45 Kit be sufficient for this plasma cutter or do I need 1/2" NPT Motor Guard M-100 kit?

Also I know if I add too many things inline before the cutter I cut down on the air to the machine. Should I also add a Desiccant Bead Drier in line or is that going to be over kill for the little bit of cutting I will be doing?

Here are the Motor Guard M-45 and M-100 Kits I am looking at.

NPT 1/4" M-45 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=AUEUXQQV6YS3R

NPT 1/2" M-100 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[Ron Ohler]

It is the same as the ESAB 625. Nothing changed forever on these. They were very popular and pretty durable too. The torch is the PT31 as stated above and it and the consumables are very inexpensive on E-Bay. As any inverter it could last 1 day or another 10 years. If I remember correctly from my distributor days selling a Lot of VPI's the torch system is designed for Drag Cutting. There are a crap load of these VPI's still on the job. Just remember you can buy a New 40 amp 115/230v Thermal Dynamics with a 4 year warranty for under 1K. Just mentioned it as a price measuring tool.

Hi, I bought one of these used on Ebay near 20 years ago. UPS dropped it in shipping and broke the case. A replacement case through the dealership was as much as I bought it for - $400. UPS paid me the money. I used it for 6 months. It quit working. I called the stealership for help and was told $1200 for a replacement circuit board. $700 for a rebuilt board. I decided to troubleshoot myself.

I found a bad component. It looked like a T-03 transistor but the circuit board symbol was a back to back diode. The part number on the component would not come up in searches. I noticed many IC's had the name San Rex on them. I googled San Rex. They are a power supply manufacturer. I called them in New York. I was routed to a gent named Charles Dunst who said he could help me. he said it was a common part in Japan but search engines don't have access to Japan from the USA. It is internally a back to back diode and could be replaced with 2 diodes. He sent me the component with instructions to call when I got it installed. It worked. I called him. We got talking. They made the L-Tech inverter machines, Some machines for Esab, Lincon, Hobart. He said - if it has a 2pc clamshell case - we probably made it. I don't think this applies to the Powercon products. I mentioned my broken case. He called me back. We still have some - but Esab yellow. I can sell them as the machine is out of production. My machine is now yellow with green front and back. I've talked with him several times since. Charles was always helpful. I wouldn't be surprised if he is retired now.

A big issue with the inverter is contamination with metal oxide and grit. The cooling fan sucks the stuff inside where it shorts the sensitive circuitry. I've had to clean my machine a few times with compressed air and electrical cleaner before I became very careful about where grinding and cutting sparks are directed and keep the machine up off the floor.

I've not used my machine for several years. I lost most of my business to a $1M fire. If I recall - Charles indicated that the air pressure should be around 60-65 psi. Much higher blows out the arc. Water is a royal pain. I actually know a guy who uses tanks of nitrogen instead of air. That is costly - but so are consumables....I ran my machine 100ft from the air compressor. I ran 3/8" id plastic line overhead - lying on boards to keep it flat without dips in it from the compressor to the cutter. I did this hoping to keep it warmer - reducing condensation. I found that simply plugging a bare fitting into the air line and letting the air flow freely would not just blow out water but also allow the compressor to run for a while - warming the air. Doing this greatly reduced water in the line. I had tried fitting a settlement tank right before the cutter for a while but eventually gave up on that.

There are good quality consumables made by American Torch tip. I've bought the made in China made tips. Definitely not the same quality, life span or cutting results. I used those on 16g or thinner. Use the better ones for more discerning cuts. You will have the option of 30 or 50 amp nozzles. The difference is the orifice size. 30 amp burn out faster at higher amperage but give better results for low current use. I tend to just use 50 amp units.

[ttman4]

Old thread but............
I have a few questions about my L-Tec VCM VPI Plasma.

How do I tell what torch I have? Near as I can tell searching the net & on here I have a PT-31XLPC or maybe a PT-31XL.

This machine been sitting for years. My son that we lost recently had it but never used it. I got it back & trying to figure it out as well as what/where to buy consumables.
Currently has a long extended tip on torch. I have no consumables at all & need to figure out what to orders.
When I use this torch I have to keep tip contact on my metal to keep arc.

I have a Hypertherm 800 that I run 900 consumables on & I don't have to keep tip contact with metal when cutting with extended tip or use drag tip.

What info can/should I post to get some info.?

TIA, James

[Rondo]

Tons of low cost PT31 consumables on e-bay.

[N2 Welding]

Old thread but............
I have a few questions about my L-Tec VCM VPI Plasma.

How do I tell what torch I have? Near as I can tell searching the net & on here I have a PT-31XLPC or maybe a PT-31XL.

This machine been sitting for years. My son that we lost recently had it but never used it. I got it back & trying to figure it out as well as what/where to buy consumables.
Currently has a long extended tip on torch. I have no consumables at all & need to figure out what to orders.
When I use this torch I have to keep tip contact on my metal to keep arc.

I have a Hypertherm 800 that I run 900 consumables on & I don't have to keep tip contact with metal when cutting with extended tip or use drag tip.

What info can/should I post to get some info.?

TIA, James

I’m sure someone can identify your torch if you are able to post a few pics of the torch and consumables in it. I have a couple brand new tips and electrodes etc that I could sell at a discount “ factory ESAB consumables “ if you are interested.

[Oldiron2]

Old thread but............
I have a few questions about my L-Tec VCM VPI Plasma.

How do I tell what torch I have? Near as I can tell searching the net & on here I have a PT-31XLPC or maybe a PT-31XL.

This machine been sitting for years. My son that we lost recently had it but never used it. I got it back & trying to figure it out as well as what/where to buy consumables.
Currently has a long extended tip on torch. I have no consumables at all & need to figure out what to orders.
When I use this torch I have to keep tip contact on my metal to keep arc.

I have a Hypertherm 800 that I run 900 consumables on & I don't have to keep tip contact with metal when cutting with extended tip or use drag tip.

What info can/should I post to get some info.?

TIA, James

If you go back through this thread, you will find N2-Welding has posted diagrams w/ part numbers showing the torch and its various components, all available from multiple places. Do a search using art numbers and perhaps add a short item name.
If the torch won't hold an open arc, examine the electrode; it might be worn too short; I used to know such measurements, but have forgotten. The electrode center is a core w/ Halfnium to allow ionization more easily. FWIW, consumables last much longer if using really dry air; I run my plasma air through a desiccant tank, or for larger jobs, use a refrigerated dryer.

Here is a site where the factory manual (after the ESAB name change) can be downloaded:

https://manualzz.com/doc/22486168/es...oubleshooting-...

[ttman4]

If you go back through this thread, you will find N2-Welding has posted diagrams w/ part numbers showing the torch and its various components, all available from multiple places. Do a search using art numbers and perhaps add a short item name.
If the torch won't hold an open arc, examine the electrode; it might be worn too short; I used to know such measurements, but have forgotten. The electrode center is a core w/ Halfnium to allow ionization more easily. FWIW, consumables last much longer if using really dry air; I run my plasma air through a desiccant tank, or for larger jobs, use a refrigerated dryer.

Here is a site where the factory manual (after the ESAB name change) can be downloaded:

https://manualzz.com/doc/22486168/es...oubleshooting-...

Thanks, Im going to go back thru this thread & read again everything when I get some time. Trying to get my shop built currently & it's killing me timewise!

[ttman4]

I’m sure someone can identify your torch if you are able to post a few pics of the torch and consumables in it. I have a couple brand new tips and electrodes etc that I could sell at a discount “ factory ESAB consumables “ if you are interested.

Thanks N2, I may take you up on that but first I'm trying to figure out how to post 3-4 pics I took of my torch. How I post pics?

And Rondo yes there are tons & tons of consumables on the net AND EBay, but I need to figure out which/what best to buy as well as what for sure torch I have.

Nother question: Only plasma I've ever run is my Hypertherm 800 that I run 900 consumables on & I don't have to keep tip contact with metal when cutting with extended tip only when I use drag tip. This L-Tec machine I have to make and keep tip contact with metal I'm cutting to strike and keep an arc going. Raise torch up a little & arc stops, air keeps going. Tip seems to be "using up" more than it should no more than I've used it.

And speaking of air It has an air filter/separator/drain as well as a MotorGuard Toiletpaper filter I added. My Hypertherm Plasma also has had a MotoirGuard for yrs.

OLDIRON2 i'M GOING TO GO BACK & LOOK SOON i GET BIT OF TIME.....16 HR DAYS.....

[N2 Welding]

Pics of the consumables I have left. I sold this cutter after getting the Cutmaster 60i.