Thanks for the update, I have been wondering how these machines are holding up since you really do not hear all that much about them on the forums.
My how time flies....
Well going on 4 months now, and she’s still running like a champ. I am by no means a heavy user, but I’ve averaged about 10-15 hours per week of actual arc time on the new machine and have had zero hiccups. Stick work fines, As does TIG. I’ve run some E6011 on it, and it works pretty well. It has a stick arc that’s a little on the soft side, so bear that in mind if you intend to do a bunch of stick work and like a stiff arc. This is a TIG machine first however. On the TIG side all functions work well, frequency, pulse, cleaning action, it’s all good. No complaints.
I liked my experience with this machine enough that I went and got the 215 MIG unit too.
Certainly satisfied.
-Mark Smith
Miller Bobcat 250
Vulcan ProTig200
Vulcan MigMax215
Everlast PowerArc 210STL
Hypertherm PowerMax45 Xp
Thanks for the update, I have been wondering how these machines are holding up since you really do not hear all that much about them on the forums.
The Certainly! If anyone has any questions you can ask them here and I’ll do my best to answer. These machines strike a good balance of quality and price, and for folks that are strapped for cash, or those just getting into welding but not comfortable throwing down a pile on a red or blue box, this is a good option. The equipment is good enough that it shouldn’t be outgrown by the majority of home/hobbyist/project weldors, it’s a good option. HF biggest hurdle with these I’m sure was overcoming their reputation for cheap disposable products, in my own opinion I do not feel that either of my two Vulcans fit that description.
I don’t think people talk about them a lot because they’re relatively new on the market, and the stigma of owning a Harbor Freight product. Personally I don’t care.. I can’t see the machine when my hood is down and the weld is going in, when I lift my hood and the product of my effort is good I’m happy. If people want to laugh at my machine, and theirs doesn’t produce a better bead, who really is the one laughing? Me. Why? Because we both put down identical weld beads but his cost per weld is higher because he purchased his machine for $2100 with rebate. I got mine for under a grand. Lol but that’s just me, some folks are more concerned with vanity than I am.
-Mark Smith
Miller Bobcat 250
Vulcan ProTig200
Vulcan MigMax215
Everlast PowerArc 210STL
Hypertherm PowerMax45 Xp
I have both the ProTig 200 and MigMax 215, and although I have not used them much, they seem to be good machine for the price. I don't get that 'cheap Chinese' feel from them. Although I cannot substantiate it, I did hear that HF hired an ex-Lincoln Electric engineer to design them.
My only concern would be how to get them repaired should one of the boards go out, or more accurately, would we be able to get replacement boards so that we can swap them ourselves should something happen outside of the warranty period.
Also, to be taken with a grain of salt, I was talking to one of the cashiers at a HF store and she said they have been selling quite a few of them and only had one come back for DOA.
Getting them repaired after warranty will have the same odds as getting a red or blue machine repaired out of warranty slim to none, exceeds the cost of replacement, I said it before some people spend 1k on a phone that is worthless in a year or two and I got blasted by people,with a three year warranty the pro tig works out to less than a dollar a day if it's junk in 3 years,
Looking into this Tig for a bit now. I am an experienced mig welder and have even done aluminum with a spoolgun with great results. My question is, I plan on using for strictly aluminum anodized tubing and was told I would need a finger button torch for maneuverability. Anybody used this tig for this application with good reults or would I need a higher amperage model tig? Also, anyone rigged up a torch cooler to this machine yet? Thanks
I have been pondering your post for a bit. The ProTig does not have adjustable high frequency start, it has capacitor discharge start at 25amps for some milliseconds. You can adjust balance to help break and lift off the anodize at full 200 amps but IDK. As far as the finger controller SSC controls make a 4 step finger controller that works really good. Since they make the foot control the connector is available if you ask them to build one. Then you can ramp the amps up to full, floor the finger control and it may do what you want.
HTP/usa weld can probably rig you up the dinse connector to water cool a ProTig. It uses the same argon flow thru dinse as Lincoln.
Lastly if you just can't get it to perform the way you want, you have a year satisfaction guaranty to get your money back from Harbor Freight. Just make sure you buy it from Harbor Freight preferably at their store and preserve the reciepts.
Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
FWIW, AvE just bought one of these and featured it in one of his recent videos. I hope he does a tear down video on it like he did for the MigMax machine.
Miller Multimatic 255
I have a Harbor Freight Pro Tig 200. I have a much larger old Hobart Tig welder but it doesn't have a high freq for thin aluminum. If you want to weld 3/16+ alum, it is fine. Not so good for thin stuff.
The Pro Tig 200 works fine. It is sensitive to grounding. Put the ground lead as close to the weld as possible. I saw Chuckee2009's review before I bought it.
My unit sometimes has intermittent starts. The problem on my rig is the stinger. The high freq start will blow right through the insulation of the stinger sometimes. When it doesn't start, watch the starting arc... it will either be very weak or not there at all.
If the cable is on the ground it will sometimes leak off there and the unit will fail to start. I think there are pinholes in the stinger lead insulation.
If I pick the lead off the ground it works. I bought the unit as a return from HF so I got it at a really good price. The failed starts is just a nuisance, but I can live with it until I get a better stinger. It works fine on alum.
I'm welding a gas tank for a boat at the moment out of 1/8" alum. This welder almost pays for itself with just this one gas tank.
I bet you got a sweet deal on that return welder. I found that the tungsten they gave is really crappy, especially if it gets too balled up. I think it is ceriated as they are scared of thoriated. Anyway the thoriated with a pointed tip made the starts work well.
I also found if it hard to start rubbing on the metal first cures it.
Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
AvE is an internet sensation...funny as hell. He protects his real identity pretty fiercely so I am not sure anyone knows who he really is. Seems to have an engineering/manufacturing background. Does a lot of tear downs and other tool reviews.
Miller Multimatic 255
When i grow up i want to be a welder
PRIMEWELD TIG225ACDCP
Millermatic 215
Everlast PowerPlasma 50
oxy/ac
Not enough talent to use any of it very well
Start with a gas lens kit and a portable gas flow checker to confirm flow at the torch. Then reduce gas flow as much as possible. A gas lens does a good job of providing a smooth coverage. The lower amps so you have to floor the pedal to get desired puddle. The synergic function times post flow at the amps set on the panel, which is 7 to 18 seconds.
Here I the deal. At prolonged welding the air cooled torch will need long post-flows.
Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Shovelon gave you good advice and I agree air cooled torches need more gas post flow time. That said I would not be put off by that. I have not had the opportunity to try that Vulcan 200 but from what I've read here, particularly posts from Shovelon, I think that machine would be a good machine to start with. Can't beat the 1 year return policy either.
Ernie F.
I bought the Vulcan ProTig 200 about a year ago. I'm a novice (at best). I've used Oxyacetylene in the past and was, at best mediocre at that. I've learned a lot from both youtube, books and practice. My main use of it is welding up the various turbo components, exhaust manifolds, tubing from the turbo outlet to the intercooler to the throttle body, turbo downpipes, exhaust out the back, etc. I'm using aluminum, stainless and mild steel with this welder. I tried a lot of different tungstens (percentages, pure, different diameters,etc) My gas is 100% argon. I use the FUPA #12 gas lens quite a bit. I have to say, I'm *very* happy with the results of this welder.
And i thanked him for his concise answer.
The reality is for me, anything with synergic post flow ( no post flow control ) is a non starter for me not matter the color.
Some may say I'm just ignorant and you may be right but i just don't see paying more for less.
Lets say you want to water cool the protig200 down the road sometime. How does that synergic post flow not become a serious gas waster then?
I have seen more than one person say" just buy it to learn on and then take it back ". Thats just not cool and only drives up the price on economical welders. Not to mention the implications about your character.
Kind of like the already increase of $100 from the ProTig200 release price of $899.
If you really love the features of the lincoln SW200, by all means skip the lincoln and save yourself a bunch and get the Protig 200 from harbor freight. it appears to be a pretty good 1 to 1 knockoff of the SW200.
The only way i can think of to get around the crazy post flow waste is to figure out a timer circuit that drives a low voltage inline , on the output of the flow meter, solenoid that kills the gas flow or go to a valve torch.
My miller 215 suffers from the same gas wasting synergic post flow.
The reality is that most all, including red and blue, are made from off shore boards. I think the quality between each brand, whatever color it is, is becoming a blurred line.
Blue and Red out of warranty repairs can cost as much as another welder. I think inverter welders have become yet another item in the list of throw away consumer electronics.
Also these orange machines are not going to hold their value in the used market any better than all other colors, excluding red and blue.
Im not here to bash any brand or color. I have zero exposure to the orange machines. The synergic post flow just makes it not for me. Thats all.
Last edited by bevis28; 02-21-2019 at 11:38 AM.
When i grow up i want to be a welder
PRIMEWELD TIG225ACDCP
Millermatic 215
Everlast PowerPlasma 50
oxy/ac
Not enough talent to use any of it very well
Bevis
Did you see the Primeweld 225: https://primeweld.com/products/prime...-year-warranty
Not a lot written about it but there are some utube vids. It appears to have post flow and pre-flow adjustability.
Less money than the HF. I mentioned the HF 1 year return in the context that if something goes wrong with the welder you can get another one and maybe drive to a brick and mortar store to swap it.
Last edited by metalman21; 02-21-2019 at 11:32 AM.
Ernie F.
I certainly agree that if you are ok with the feature set of the HF 200, its a no brainer along with the $119 for a 2 year extended warranty. There are no other brands with brick and mortar locations that can do that.
I absolutely did see that thread about the prime weld 225 and read it completely . I then went to look at availability and came up with zero.
Im also looking at this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza
But there is no availability yet.
I don't think red or blue really care about hobby level welders and thats why the import market won't impact them much.
If i had the cash to blow, i would have already ordered an Invertig221. I think its hard to beat for the money and i have never heard anyone say one bad word about the 221.
But alas, i do not.....
SO I'm still looking at green /yellow/ and other color machines that are not miller or lincoln.
Last edited by bevis28; 02-21-2019 at 11:49 AM.
When i grow up i want to be a welder
PRIMEWELD TIG225ACDCP
Millermatic 215
Everlast PowerPlasma 50
oxy/ac
Not enough talent to use any of it very well
just talked to the people at prime weld. they are in port now and will be available in 7-10 days.
interesting that AHP had a shipment come in yesterday too. i suspect they are on the same boat
Apologies to the OP.
Didn't mean to hijack your thread.
Just responding to metal man.
carry on...
When i grow up i want to be a welder
PRIMEWELD TIG225ACDCP
Millermatic 215
Everlast PowerPlasma 50
oxy/ac
Not enough talent to use any of it very well
Never heard of that one.Im also looking at thishttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza
My understanding is there are more welding machines made in China than you can shake a stick at .
I don't know about the AHP and Primeweld coming off the same boat. I think AHP is in California (same owners as Everlast?) and Primeweld is in NJ?
Ernie F.
Yes primeweld is in NJ. I talked to them on the phone a bit ago. Green and yellow are owned by the same company and are in California. But i suspect
that all these offshore inverters, shy HTP and fronious , are likely made in the same plant to different specs.
There is no warranty info on Primwelds site . I had to email them requesting the warranty so i could read it. Can you say " red flag ?"
Last edited by bevis28; 02-21-2019 at 01:19 PM.
When i grow up i want to be a welder
PRIMEWELD TIG225ACDCP
Millermatic 215
Everlast PowerPlasma 50
oxy/ac
Not enough talent to use any of it very well
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza
If you go to the website for that vendor (WeldPro.com), it looks almost identical to the Primeweld website...interesting.