Line Boring Machine

[CAVEMANN]

That is what mine is but older. It's a Climax BB-1149. Too large for many things but I built another using 1.250" shafting and it works well also with manual feed.

Attachment 1691945

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That looks almost identical to what we had, but we had 2 shafts, one was about 2" and the other was like 1" or 1.250", it was a good machine, I don't know why they don't include split cones with the machines.

Slob, in my experience you could probably get by with a lot less weld on the brackets, I never used more than a goo tack and never had a problem.

[Slob]

That looks almost identical to what we had, but we had 2 shafts, one was about 2" and the other was like 1" or 1.250", it was a good machine, I don't know why they don't include split cones with the machines.

Slob, in my experience you could probably get by with a lot less weld on the brackets, I never used more than a goo tack and never had a problem.

I usually use four good tacks per bearing support. Nothing additional needed and they remove easily. I don't have the adapter collets to drive 1.250", or 1.750" bars but Climax will supply them if needed/wanted. 2.250" is standard for this and it's newer replacement. The cost was so great to drive the smaller bar, (1.250") I just built a whole different machine for about the same money. The hydraulic drive is nice and very controllable.

The photos of the welded brackets were not mine but you are correct in way too much for what is required.

[CAVEMANN]

Yeah I really liked the hydraulic drive, you could slow it down to a snails pace if needed.

[Slob]

Yeah I really liked the hydraulic drive, you could slow it down to a snails pace if needed.

Sure saves tool bits in the initial plunge cuts going slow.

[gtermini]

That's some serious toy money you got tied up there. Damn good side work ability (job security) to have though. All the line bore guys in this neck of the woods are booked out 6 months most of the time.

I've got a homebuilt 1.250 bar set up, but would like to go bigger. Climax has gotten proud of there bars. Quote was over $80k for a new BB500 decked out, and that was picked up from the factory 20 miles away. They pay people to hound the internet and auctions to buy all their used bars and equipment up so they can sell them at outrageous used prices or destroy them to sell new ones.

[ExpatWelder]

Wish i could have learned this earlier in life ...Never too late to learn Bro!


That would give you a real close center on the original hole +,- .001 ...Not sure about using the tapered setup as the holes tend to bell mouth and do it unevenly
But i guess for heavy equipment it would get you in the ballpark.........You are correct, the cones will get you within .020 or so, then use an indicator to dial it in to .001 or so....



Where is Expat he did a lot of line boring stuff

..........Here, just not very active on here anymore

[ExpatWelder]

Yeah I really liked the hydraulic drive, you could slow it down to a snails pace if needed.

If you ever use a servo motor RDU--(rotational drive unit), You will never want to go back to a hydraulic one. Right or left rotation, 0 to 300 RPM, absolutely SILENT, and so much torque that you can break a half inch tool with ZERO effort.........you will never stop the bar! I actually demoed the one of the first Climax servos quite a few years ago and have since bought 2 of them......close to 30K each.

[Virgil5]

Is silent really much of a consideration in a boring bar setup for this market?

[Todd496]

Hey Slob, when you put a cutter in your boring bar is it centered? Is the tool off set? I Broached them and when cutter is set it’s above center. It cuts but doesn’t roll very nice chips out.

[killdozerd11]

Glad to hear from you ...Long time no see you anymore

[Slob]

Hey Slob, when you put a cutter in your boring bar is it centered? Is the tool off set? I Broached them and when cutter is set it’s above center. It cuts but doesn’t roll very nice chips out.

The bars I'd purchased are centered and like you, don't care for it but grind your tool bits at 1/2 height. The bars I've had made are offset so the tool point is centered with a positive rake. It rolls chips nicely. Have two sets of grinds, one set left, one set right. You never know when one direction is better than the other.

I'm needing to build a facing head and work on that from time to time.

[CAVEMANN]

If you ever use a servo motor RDU--(rotational drive unit), You will never want to go back to a hydraulic one. Right or left rotation, 0 to 300 RPM, absolutely SILENT, and so much torque that you can break a half inch tool with ZERO effort.........you will never stop the bar! I actually demoed the one of the first Climax servos quite a few years ago and have since bought 2 of them......close to 30K each.

Will never happen! I've been retired for nearly 6 years now, I go out and tinker in my garage, it usually doesn't last too long tho, an hour or 2 a day when and if my back feels like it.

[ExpatWelder]

Is silent really much of a consideration in a boring bar setup for this market?

To me it's a huge concern! cut 8 or 10 holes with one of those screaming Milwaukee RDU's and you will yearn for silence. You can also "hear your cut" much better the quieter it is..........I can't quite figure out how to say that any other way, but a machinist will understand.

[ExpatWelder]

Glad to hear from you ...Long time no see you anymore

Ya, ..it's been a very busy last couple of years, but still hanging in Ghana. Looking for a change of scenery soon........the new and the fun has worn off. I'm thinking maybe a 1 or 2 year fishing trip then look for something else.

[Slob]

To me it's a huge concern! cut 8 or 10 holes with one of those screaming Milwaukee RDU's and you will yearn for silence. You can also "hear your cut" much better the quieter it is..........I can't quite figure out how to say that any other way, but a machinist will understand.

Yes, silence is golden with this type of job. The hydraulic unit is very quiet but it's a bit distant and powered by a generator that is about 25 feet distant.Typically you are standing right on top of the cutter in action to keep it lubricated and cooled so the screaming drive motor, (RDU) is unpleasant to be around. I too like hearing the tool bit do it's job and you can tell how it's performing by the sound.

[gtermini]

Hey Slob, when you put a cutter in your boring bar is it centered? Is the tool off set? I Broached them and when cutter is set it’s above center. It cuts but doesn’t roll very nice chips out.

When I built my 1 1/4 bars, I set them up for 5/16 tool bits. The holes are offset 5/32 to centerline cut without grinding half the bit away. The holes are also tapped 3/8-24NF before broaching for a short backup grub screw to advance the bit with some control.

[Slob]

When I built my 1 1/4 bars, I set them up for 5/16 tool bits. The holes are offset 5/32 to centerline cut without grinding half the bit away. The holes are also tapped 3/8-24NF before broaching for a short backup grub screw to advance the bit with some control.

Same with mine on the smaller bars. Makes it a lot easier to adjust the tool bit with the "grub" screw. I assume you lock the tool bit with an allen head set screw in the side?

[Virgil5]

When you've been listening to a whistle for 50 years and learned to hear what you can around the whistle a lot of annoying to other people noises don't bother you. For me "hearing" the cut generally involves a rod in contact with the object being cut to sense the vibrations. Ya learn to work with what you got left.

[Slob]

When you've been listening to a whistle for 50 years and learned to hear what you can around the whistle a lot of annoying to other people noises don't bother you. For me "hearing" the cut generally involves a rod in contact with the object being cut to sense the vibrations. Ya learn to work with what you got left.

Yup. It's the same thing with a door buzzer in a car. They can go for hours and I don't even hear them but somebody else it just drives them ape****.

[Virgil5]

Yup. It's the same thing with a door buzzer in a car. They can go for hours and I don't even hear them but somebody else it just drives them ape****.

Unfortunately I can hear that sumbeach in my Explorer, and I am told by a couple mechanics the computer won't let it be killed.

[Todd496]

Thanks I didn't even know you could broach a hole off center. I think I am going to build another boring bar and off se them. Thank you for the pictures and education.

Hey Killdozer if a dumb Lithuania like me can line bore any one can! There has been a learning curve although its not rocket science. I have just been doing small bores. MR. Slob has a much bigger setup and does a little more difficult projects.

[Virgil5]

Just 1 little thing I'll mention without mentioning how I learned it.

If you drill and broach the bar off center, add a reinforcing blister to the bar on the weak side. That will generally save a fractured bar at the worst possible moment.

Slob's results may vary from yours. Mine may vary from yours.

[killdozerd11]

That's why i have been a member here for a long time .... i come here to the forum and read stuff

Learn things from the folks who do interesting things.. That i don't know how to do

Some folks have interesting projects That i learn from

[bent]

Unfortunately I can hear that sumbeach in my Explorer, and I am told by a couple mechanics the computer won't let it be killed.

If its like GM, the forkin thing actually works through the speakers for the radio.

[Virgil5]

Might seem a silly thought, has anyone ever set up a bar with the cutters 180° opposed?

Seems like it might reduce torquing of the bar and make for a smoother cut.

Then again, I could be totally wrong.