Did you turn the switch on the upper right to make the electrode hot? The display will change color
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Hello,
I bought a Lincoln MP210 about a year ago so that I could do some MIG welding. I'm only a hobbyist when it comes to welding, but in the past year I can't say I have any complaints about the machine.
The other day I thought I'd give stick welding a shot so I set everything up per a video produced by Lincoln. I sat down to practice "striking a match" to see if I could get an arc going, but got nothing at all when I touched electrode (Hobart E7018(-1) 3/32) to metal.
No sputter, no spark, nothing.... I might as well be dragging a wet piece of wood across the metal (yes, I did make sure that the 'Output' was turned on)
Since I'm only hobbyist I might be overlooking something insanely simple and would appreciate if one of you with more knowledge in the field could point me in the right direction. Thanks
Did you turn the switch on the upper right to make the electrode hot? The display will change color
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Steve
Miller Dialarc 250 (1990)
Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)
Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)
Lincoln MP210 (2015)
Victor and MECO torches
Make sure you are properly grounded. Make sure you are not just dragging flux across. You can try removing flux from the electrode with a file so you see bare metal and strike with bare metal. What type of metal and thickness are you using and what amperage are you using. 7018 requires high amperage compared to 6011 or 6013. Are you using A.C. or D.C.? Some 7018 rods won’t run on A.C.
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Thanks, I think it was a combination of the ground and my technique ( or lack of technique ). At any rate, I successfully managed to weld the electrode to a piece of metal, not exactly the outcome I was looking for, but at least I did get an outcome.
Stick welding always looked like a challenge to me so this should be fun.
One of the easiest rods to use is 6013. You should try that when you are first learning and practice running beads in the center of an angle iron. Then work on laying beads on the flat portion of the angle iron. Make sure your metal is clean. 7018 requires very clean metal, 6013 can be used on dirty metal, but you still use need to have nice clean metal with no mill scale when learning so that dirty metal is not making it harder to learn.
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Did you knock excess flux off the end of the rod? Make sure you can see the steel on the end of the rod. The Hobart rods are pretty good and I haven't seen the end covered with flux before. Just a suggestion.
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I'd recommend learning with 7014 rods. The easiest rod to learn with. Much easier than the 60xx rods.
7018 rods that have been out of the box and absorbed humidity/water would not be a good beginner rod; too hard to start.
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7018 forms a insulating melted slag on end of rod. you have to tap start the rod not scratch start.
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one reason 6013/7014/7024 rutile coated rods are popular is flux in conductive and they can be scratch started
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other important thing is setting rod to correct amperage. usually on welding rod container. that and electrode holder is connected to positive side and ground to negative side
You've said that before, but I've never found the flux to be conductive on those rods.
I've leaned the rods against steel many times getting them into tight spots, not one has made an arc through the side of the rod.
I've not experienced everything in welding of course, but this is my experience.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
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Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
I replaced the ground clamp on my my 210mp , and it helped alot on all processes. Only one side of the original clamp has copper/bronze on it. When it got dirty it would weld terrible, and you could see some arcing when it wasn't making a good connection. I still try and grind a spot to put the ground clamp, these machines seem to need a really good ground. I got a Lenco 200 amp bronze from Mcmaster-Carr, and it has helped alot.
Just don't try running 6011 it will drive you crazy. 6013, and 7014 are great choices to learn with on the 210MP. With 7018 you might have to scratch the rod almost perpendicular to the work, they sometimes have a lot of flux on the end. Maybe even poke it straight down into the work, and when it arcs and sticks you can break it free from the work, and the flux will have broken off the tip making it easier to scratch start. Some people even keep a brick handy to break the flux off when re-starting. If all else fails scratch across the ground clamp, if that doesn't make sparks nothing will.
ps. I've never tried it , but you might just get sparks with wet wood. People get zapped with wet and green wood near electricity.
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I put an all copper tweco ground clamp on mine as well. Wire welders are more particular about their ground than stick machines
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Steve
Miller Dialarc 250 (1990)
Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)
Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)
Lincoln MP210 (2015)
Victor and MECO torches
If you have trouble with grounding, just put a piece of uncoated twisted welding lead between the clamp and the metal. That automatically provides you with a bunch of connection points. It also comes handy for grounding round stuff you cannot put your clamp to.
I do that when welding alumimum automotive wheels, they usually don't have a good flat area to clamp to. If you don't get a good ground, the ground clamp can arc pretty seriously and damage the rim. I have a piece of 1/0 ga. cut 6" long with 3" stripped back to put under the clamp. Usually thats when I'm using when I'm using 300 amps on the Heli-Arc. I keep making new ones because people think it garbage and through it out. LOL. Might be a good idea to tie one to my ground leads.
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Jason
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The MP210 is indeed a DC machine and will run 6013,7014, and 7018 beautifully. Runs 6011 as well. I love the smooth arc of the inverter machines.
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Steve
Miller Dialarc 250 (1990)
Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)
Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)
Lincoln MP210 (2015)
Victor and MECO torches