Punch & Die Lubrication Suggestions

[Jawslandshark]

Wanted to find out what is being used for punch & die and shear lubrication. I never have used lube before other than Vaseline for some aluminum and on thinner stuff, but lately I have had the ironworker in overtime punching thousands of holes.

I have been punching a lot of 3/16 in various round and oblong sizes. No real issues with tooling life or stripping, just would like some opinions.

Cleveland sells Punch-Easy, was going to try some of this, anyone have experience with this product?

[OPUS FERRO]

Jawslandshark

My first punch experience was on a Mubea 110 ton mechanical ironworker.
Anti-Seize with a brush was standard procedure. It was messy, but this was
a big structural operation - so every thing was dirty.

I currently operate a hobby 40 ton Scotchman. Because, I control the shop's
hygiene - I use straight dish-soap in a finger pump oil can. A drop in every
second/third punch divot is adequate, and cleans with a wet rag.

The big bonus is choice of colors, and fragrance . . .


Opus

[villageblacksmith]

I have a 50 ton Unihydro ironworker. I use the Punch-easy. I have used it for years. I like it. Of course, like almost everything else, there are one or two drawbacks. One of them is that it seems to cause the tooling to rust quite badly. I suppose that could be solved by washing the punches and dies in a solvent before storing them. It is interesting to note that when a hole is punched using the Punch-easy that it does look like the wall of the freshly punched hole has lubricant on it. It also does punch easier. I suppose though, that some will say "ya don't need none of that thar stuff. What 'I' use is old tranny fluid, or hog fat, or bear grease thinned with acetone..."

[villageblacksmith]

I saw the suggestion from Opus after posting what I did. The dish soap dropping idea is one that I like...dish soap seems to have its place in the shop- for more than washing dishes.

[Jawslandshark]

Jawslandshark

My first punch experience was on a Mubea 110 ton mechanical ironworker.
Anti-Seize with a brush was standard procedure. It was messy, but this was
a big structural operation - so every thing was dirty.

I currently operate a hobby 40 ton Scotchman. Because, I control the shop's
hygiene - I use straight dish-soap in a finger pump oil can. A drop in every
second/third punch divot is adequate, and cleans with a wet rag.

The big bonus is choice of colors, and fragrance . . .


Opus

Thanks!

Never thought of dish soap! That seems like a great idea and not messy. Next round of punching I will try that for sure.

I will keep the anti-seize idea if I ever have to punch some real thick stuff again, I hate using it in anything because it seems to get everywhere and never go away. I have enough to clean up as it is!

[Jawslandshark]

I have a 50 ton Unihydro ironworker. I use the Punch-easy. I have used it for years. I like it. Of course, like almost everything else, there are one or two drawbacks. One of them is that it seems to cause the tooling to rust quite badly. I suppose that could be solved by washing the punches and dies in a solvent before storing them. It is interesting to note that when a hole is punched using the Punch-easy that it does look like the wall of the freshly punched hole has lubricant on it. It also does punch easier. I suppose though, that some will say "ya don't need none of that thar stuff. What 'I' use is old tranny fluid, or hog fat, or bear grease thinned with acetone..."

I might order some with my next round of tooling, never hurts to try. It may be everything they say it is.

Hog fat...I was laughing about that one because I could hear somebody saying that here local, ugh.

[tapwelder]

What are the qualities of a good lube for punching? I use PB blaster, due to availibility and no rust. I have punch/line product but really cannot tell a difference. I used dish shop for cutting on a lathe. Caused lots of rust. Have never tried it for punching.

[docwelder]

the fab shop i worked in was very cheap. on the buffalo we didn't use lube for punching holes under 1". over one inch iirc we used old crankcase oil from the shop trucks. on the shear part of the ironworker we didn't use lube at all.

[mrmikey]

If you read the specs for molypaste it's suggest to use that. According to the writeup, it bonds to the punch on the molecular level and prevents metal to metal contact..........Mike

[Jawslandshark]

Dish soap works awesome, just wanted to follow up. Definite differnce in punching 3/16 and up. Appreciate everyone who chimed in here.

[OPUS FERRO]

Jawslandshark

Dish soap works awesome, just wanted to follow up . . .

I am not stalking you - I just posted a heretical diatribe in another thread,
after the interim [90 second] re-check - you showed up . . .

Dish Soap is good for light/intermittent use.

After use - I always wipe the punch - pay special attention to the bottom
of the punch - soap will accumulate [cake] mill scale to the peak, of the
centering-spike.

A dirty dedicated - wire tooth-brush - is the best tool . . .


Opus

[Bonzoo]

In 50 plus years ? An acid brush crammed in the to the top of a can of Crisco

[OPUS FERRO]

Jawslandshark

This is what you apply for 'heavy punching' = organic anti-seize . . .

In 50 plus years ? An acid brush crammed in the to the top of a can of Crisco

Bonzoo

^ ^ ^


Opus




.

[Jawslandshark]

Jawslandshark



I am not stalking you - I just posted a heretical diatribe in another thread,
after the interim [90 second] re-check - you showed up . . .

Dish Soap is good for light/intermittent use.

After use - I always wipe the punch - pay special attention to the bottom
of the punch - soap will accumulate [cake] mill scale to the peak, of the
centering-spike.

A dirty dedicated - wire tooth-brush - is the best tool . . .


Opus

I punched somewhere around 800 holes the last couple of days, I did wipe everything down as I changed out tooling. I was using Dawn ultra, pretty thick stuff. All I know is the loud pop as the punch goes through is half as loud and parts drop off easy when they hit the stripper. I consider this a big improvement, cleanup is easy and I smell good also.