nope...according to the owners manual it needs a 60 amp time delayed breaker or an 80 amp normal breaker. Circuit wire size is 10 gauge minimum. https://www.hobartwelders.com/om/6digit/o278400b_hob.pdf

 

From the manual you linked:

Max Recommended Standard Fuse Rating In Amperes

Time-Delay Fuses 60 Footnote 2
Normal Operating Fuses 80 Footnote 3

Footnotes:
1 If a circuit breaker is used in place of a fuse, choose a circuit breaker with time-current curves comparable to the recommended fuse.
2 “Time-Delay” fuses are UL class “RK5” . See UL 248.
3 “Normal Operating” (general purpose - no intentional delay) fuses are UL class “K5” (up to and including 60 amps), and UL class “H” (65 amps andabove).

Those are Max fuse ratings in the manual.

I think the OP would be fine plugging into a 50 amp circuit. If the breaker trips, then I thought wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

To follow the above, (footnote 1) one would need to compare the time-current curves of his breaker to the recommended fuse.

 

and BTW, the Lincoln I posted about needs a 70 amp breaker, but uses the same 6 gauge wire that you likely already have installed ;-)

 

Crap.....thanks Louie

I checked my current circuit and it's 6 awg on a 50amp double pole breaker

 

I wouldn't worry unless you start tripping the breaker.

Most of the time you won't run it at 200 amps anyway.

Heck, even an old transformer based 250 amp Dialarc will run on a 50 amp circuit as long as it's not worked too heavy.

I've run my Lincoln invertec v250 on a 50 amp breaker many times. I was 200 amps and under for output.

 

Thanks for the info guys.

Once I saw the breaker requirement I was tempted to look at the 160i.

With my old machine i ran it on dc (140 amps was max) probably 98% of the time so the 160i would probably work for me, but I was concerned about it's capability to handle 1/2" rebar.....which is the thickest thing I ever welded. According to what I've read the 160i doesn't handle 1/2". Being portable and running it on 120 isn't a plus for me since I weld in my garage where I have 240. I also have a 25' 10ga extension to reach outside if necessary.

For less than $100 I can get the 210i and not worry about maxing it out.....which I most likely won't, but it's nice to have the extra if necessary. And.....if it pops the breaker, I'll just put in a 80 amp.

Although new on the board, I've read quite a bit on here before joining......thanks again for all the insight and info.

 

For less than $100 I can get the 210i and not worry about maxing it out

Where are you going to get a stickmate 210i for $100?

 

Not quite what I meant....I see why you jumped on that.....I meant for $100 more (over the 160i).....haha....sorry

 

seriously, go get that idealarc...it will be so much better for you if you have the room. We already know you have the power/electrical hook up for it. The welding arc on the 30 year old Lincoln idealarc is going to be a lot nicer than on the low voltage inverter. And its less money

 

Room is an issue.....that's the main reason the TRU 230/140 is gone.....I have way too much stuff, but I need to support all my hobbies....lol

 

I emailed Hobart and questioned why the 210i required suck a big breaker.

Here's their response:

The 210 only requires a 50 amp breaker with #6 wire. The 80 is if you use fuses, not a breaker.

Regards,
Hobart Welding Products

 

Makes sense to me based on max and effective current.
Plus I'd be shocked if an inverter needed a bigger breaker than a transformer buzz box.

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