Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: electrode sticking

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    2
    Post Thanks / Like

    electrode sticking

    I'm new to stick welding and one of the biggest problems I have is the electrode sticking. Maybe I'm not striking it right or using a bad angle or something. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Jacksonville Florida
    Posts
    2,370
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    What type electrode? Electrode size? Amperage? Usually sticking is caused from low amperage.
    Airco Ac/Dc 300 Heliwelder
    MillerMatic 200 (stolen)
    Miller Maxstar 150STL
    Miller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power)
    Hobart MIG

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    3,039
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Too cold, turn it up. In between sticking and throwing buckshot everywhere should be good.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Western New York State, USA
    Posts
    2,002
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by raphaelam View Post
    I'm new to stick welding and one of the biggest problems I have is the electrode sticking. Maybe I'm not striking it right or using a bad angle or something. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
    .
    .
    set to correct recommended amperage for the size rod you are using. you may have to go higher or lower if amp knob not calibrated. some welders adjust it 50 amps off as a joke to those who cannot tell amps by how rod burns and by puddle
    .
    make sure polarity correct
    .
    in general many rods you poke it (tap hard) and pull up to 1 rod dia and if needed go closer in a second or 2. cause many rods the flux covers the rod end and when you tap hard you break flux off the end. only 6013/7014/7024 does flux conduct enough that you can strike rod like a match to arc start. many other rods like 7018 better to tap start

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    1,799
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Are you using a small AC output stick welder, if so find some 7014 rod to start with, will make you a magician in no time.
    "Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"

    Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DC
    Millermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgun
    Lincoln MP210
    Hypertherm 45
    (2) LN 25
    (2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV
    (4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    7,743
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by TimmyTIG View Post
    Too cold, turn it up. In between sticking and throwing buckshot everywhere should be good.
    OMG that's funny.
    Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Elkhorn, WI
    Posts
    1,706
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Recently while welding Nuts onto stripped Security Lug Nuts for the neighbor kid, he commented on the reasoning of 2 handed hold on the Rod and Stinger. I replied that the Amps are down as low as I can go to minimize damage to his Aluminum rims and still get enough material deposited on the Lug Nut to get out of his recessed Wheel. Of course once the Metal Deposit was out far enough I welded a big Nut on to drive with the Impact.
    Bottom line is sometimes a hand on the Rod will help it to get started, then you can switch to the one hand on the Stinger only!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Bossier Parish La.
    Posts
    5,824
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by raphaelam View Post
    I'm new to stick welding and one of the biggest problems I have is the electrode sticking.
    Why do you think they call it Stick Welding? You didn't think of it as the rods being sticks, did you?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    northeast USA
    Posts
    11,394
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by drujinin View Post
    .
    Bottom line is sometimes a hand on the Rod will help it to get started, then you can switch to the one hand on the Stinger only!
    if this wasnt a welding forum that would be rather risque talking..lol....or the old" thats what she said"

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Tampa, Florida
    Posts
    695
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Ah sticking electrodes, Iím really good at that!

    1.Check Workclamp connection(the first checkpoint in any welder related problem)
    2. Run in the appropriate amperage range.
    3.If running E7018 make sure bare wire is exposed.
    4. Try the match strike method, if your not already itís easier to pickup than the tap.

    Technique: Your objective should be to hover the rod over the material, and touch it ever so briefly, for a split second. If you are heavy handed and jab or strike the rod with too much downward force it will stick like glue. For as violent as an arc start can be, the actual procedure is in fact very delicate. If your machine has the voltage, and you have a relaxed and precise hand you can draw an arc without even touching the workpiece at all.
    -Mark Smith

    Miller Bobcat 250
    Vulcan ProTig200
    Vulcan MigMax215

    Everlast PowerArc 210STL
    Hypertherm PowerMax45 Xp

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Elkhorn, WI
    Posts
    1,706
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by Hobbytime View Post
    if this wasnt a welding forum that would be rather risque talking..lol....or the old" thats what she said"
    Well?
    Gee!
    Re-reading that it is kind of far out but...... Well?
    I tried to explain using two hands to Weld with.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    7,743
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Mmock4 I never heard of the delicate touch when striking the arc for stick welding. I'll have to try to remember that one next time I stick weld with 7018
    Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Tampa, Florida
    Posts
    695
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by N2 Welding View Post
    Mmock4 I never heard of the delicate touch when striking the arc for stick welding. I'll have to try to remember that one next time I stick weld with 7018
    I think I know what you’re referring to, and that is smashing the rod against the plate to remove the ball of flux?

    It never works for me, the rod either doesn’t start, or it sticks. I have far better luck removing the slag from E7018 with a file or the concrete, and then giving it a light tap to start it.

    But you know the saying, different stroke for different folks.

    As a new guy to stick welding, I just try to give the best bits of advice I’ve recieved to someone that is also new.
    -Mark Smith

    Miller Bobcat 250
    Vulcan ProTig200
    Vulcan MigMax215

    Everlast PowerArc 210STL
    Hypertherm PowerMax45 Xp

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Bulldog Heaven at the end of my chain
    Posts
    3,714
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by Mmock4 View Post
    I think I know what you’re referring to, and that is smashing the rod against the plate to remove the ball of flux?

    It never works for me, the rod either doesn’t start, or it sticks. I have far better luck removing the slag from E7018 with a file or the concrete, and then giving it a light tap to start it.

    But you know the saying, different stroke for different folks.

    As a new guy to stick welding, I just try to give the best bits of advice I’ve recieved to someone that is also new.
    Believe it or not, I carry a cement brick to set somewhere near when using XX18 series rod to break that flux ball at the end for interrupted beads. A sharp "rap" to the end of the rod and it's ready to get after it again. Works really well and I've been using the same brick for about 20 years or so. No delicate touch for me; just a light tap, lift, and go. The key is comfort in your position to keep from long arcing from shaking or discomfort.

    I'm pretty new to stick welding too but that seems to be what works for me.
    Slob

    Purveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.

    Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Tampa, Florida
    Posts
    695
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by Slob View Post
    No delicate touch for me; just a light tap, lift, and go. The key is comfort in your position to keep from long arcing from shaking or discomfort.
    Yeah, perhaps I had my phrasing wrong, Instead of “delicate” touch, “controlled” touch would have been more appropriate. When I start electrodes, especially 7018 my experience has been smaller movements are better. Like you mentioned if you draw too long of an arc at the beginning slag inclusions and resulting porosity can become a problem where you start. So I try to keep the arc starting movements “controlled”. As I mentioned I can draw an arc without even touching the workpiece with the end of the electrode at times, I hover the tip over the work and flick my wrist and the rod is burning, this is not all the time, mind. But I learned after a few pad of beads that if there’s too much downward force in striking the arc, my electrodes would stick, and stick, and stick again... lol.

    When I was first learning 7018 I tried the tap slag removal method to start the arc, I stopped doing that because the electrode would stick to the work, and either A: be stuck in place. B: Hold just long enough, and release to create a big nasty arc strike across the work. Or C: Would stick to the plate while working on smaller pieces and the work would lift off the table and cause the electrode to arc in the jaws of my electrode holder(eventually causing me to replace it). After replacing my electrode holder, I just decided take the little extra time to remove the slag ball, stick it back in the holder, and more often than not get a clean arc strike.
    Last edited by Mmock4; 09-04-2018 at 06:30 PM.
    -Mark Smith

    Miller Bobcat 250
    Vulcan ProTig200
    Vulcan MigMax215

    Everlast PowerArc 210STL
    Hypertherm PowerMax45 Xp

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    453
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by drujinin View Post
    Recently while welding Nuts onto stripped Security Lug Nuts for the neighbor kid, he commented on the reasoning of 2 handed hold on the Rod and Stinger. I replied that the Amps are down as low as I can go to minimize damage to his Aluminum rims and still get enough material deposited on the Lug Nut to get out of his recessed Wheel. Of course once the Metal Deposit was out far enough I welded a big Nut on to drive with the Impact.
    Bottom line is sometimes a hand on the Rod will help it to get started, then you can switch to the one hand on the Stinger only!
    this is very handy when using thin rods that tend to whip. two handed or pool cue it, makes it a lot easier to start and weld for the first bit.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Central Wa. state
    Posts
    4,804
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    Quote Originally Posted by Mmock4 View Post
    I think I know what you’re referring to, and that is smashing the rod against the plate to remove the ball of flux?

    It never works for me, the rod either doesn’t start, or it sticks. I have far better luck removing the slag from E7018 with a file or the concrete, and then giving it a light tap to start it.

    But you know the saying, different stroke for different folks.

    As a new guy to stick welding, I just try to give the best bits of advice I’ve recieved to someone that is also new.
    As an old guy to stick welding, I just tap the end of 7018 with the side of my chipping hammer and go back to work. Scratch it like a match. Don't get the arc too long and don't stick it. Experience is the best explanation I have.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    7,743
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: electrode sticking

    I find tapping or striking the rod both works just as good. Depending on the joint and my body position, yes comfort plays a big part in it for me. If striking the rod like a match is not the best method for the body language the joint requires then tapping the rod is the next best thing. One way or another I get there. I do agree with the notion that more amps can solve this problem in most cases and if the welder really sucks then you may have to adjust the heat for getting the rod to light up and then adjust the rod arc length or travel speed and manipulation for the required heat needed/desired. Your milage may vary. Every machine is different. Get the fire burning and watch the puddle, it will tell you what you need to do. I find the biggest problem for me is seeing the puddle and the joint where I want the puddle to flow.
    Last edited by N2 Welding; 09-05-2018 at 02:35 AM.
    Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Page generated in 1,627,667,701.56811 seconds with 13 queries