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Thread: Sharpening Tungsten

  1. #51
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by Partsguy57 View Post
    Torque arm... you can see the arm off a the bottom of the diff it runs forward almost to the trans.. I have a bone stock 67 ss/rs 83,000 mile Camaro also and the difference in driving is amazing. The work really well with higher horse power applications as they control axile rotation very well with that long arm. ( you can see the very end of the arm by the h pipe on the exhaust)

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    Are there upper arms I cant see?

  2. #52
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by husq2100 View Post
    Are there upper arms I cant see?
    No you have your two lower links like a traditional 4 link and then a very long arm coming off the diff way forward ( almost to the trans) some mount the torque arm low on diff like this one others high up. Very nice driving handling suspension. Worked very well with high horsepower and big braking as that long arm makes it impossible for diff to rotate. It's a very good suspension for road course. It can be made to work ok for drag racing but not ideal.

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  3. #53
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by motolife313 View Post
    You just called someone a prick and smarta$$. Isn’t that judging?
    I see what ur doing here.... trying to turn it around me huh... Me saying that someone is being a prick is not the same as me calling someone a prick...

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  4. #54
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin View Post
    Weren't you the one who was "a prick and a smartass" recently when you didn't know WTF you were talking about? People who live in glass houses...
    huh? what are you talking about?

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  5. #55
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Tractor Supply had a sale on a Dewalt bench grinder. It isn't as nice as my garage grinder, but I dedicate it to tungsten. Mine lays on its back, so the stone turns away.
    An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.

  6. #56
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by Partsguy57 View Post
    No you have your two lower links like a traditional 4 link and then a very long arm coming off the diff way forward ( almost to the trans) some mount the torque arm low on diff like this one others high up. Very nice driving handling suspension. Worked very well with high horsepower and big braking as that long arm makes it impossible for diff to rotate. It's a very good suspension for road course. It can be made to work ok for drag racing but not ideal.

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    wow! That axle housing must be stout as F! normally you have uppers and lowers (3 or 4 link) part of that is to stop housing rotation (acceleration/braking forces) by "holding" either side of the housing. the more distance from centreline the better for resistance. Id be interestes in how your set up gets its roll axis and anti-squat

  7. #57
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by husq2100 View Post
    wow! That axle housing must be stout as F! normally you have uppers and lowers (3 or 4 link) part of that is to stop housing rotation (acceleration/braking forces) by "holding" either side of the housing. the more distance from centreline the better for resistance. Id be interestes in how your set up gets its roll axis and anti-squat
    The torque arm connects to the diff center section with a special bracket not the housing.. I used speed tech stuff check out their website and it will be clearer then my pic... works very well... car goes around corners on rails. Panhard bar controls side to side... the biggest surprise to me is while doing burnouts. Normally with a locker a car gets out of shape pretty quickly not with this car stays nice and straight. Not sure why ( I know enough about suspension to make me dangerous lol) the car easily rips the tires loose at 50mph when you hammer the throttle ( 315 soft compound tires for autocross) making for all kinds of fun. I would never attempt this with a traditional leaf spring car at that speed. One would be in the ditch quickly. All sorts of fun to intimidate the kid with the fart pipe import, late model BMW, mustang, Camaro, or what ever car. When they pull up and want to play. You put down a hundred or couple hundred feet of rubber starting at 40,45,50 mph they loose interest to play real quick.. lol I had never built a pro touring style of car before this one and I am sold on it. (Vs a traditional hot rod) next up is a 60 ranchero that I acquired from my uncles ranch.... sleeper / parts runner ( leave the body alone and the patina) killer suspension, big brakes and fuel injected LS. Power under the hood. ( ford people will hate the LS thing) I am leaning to a Art Morrison suspension as speed tech does not offer anything for this rig. Stock ranchero is 2600 lbs and my Camaro is 3450 right now ... lighter is always better. http://www.speedtech-performance.com/

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  8. #58
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Anyone have/use the Eastwood tungsten grinder they were promoting a ton end of last year? Think it was just over about $100?

  9. #59
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Searched on tungsten sharpening and of the bazillion threads, I picked the most recent one with the most posts. So here I am.

    I have an old radial arm saw that hasn't been doing anything for a few years. I tried to sell it but got no interest. I have one (maybe more) 10" diamond tile saw blade. It's continuous, with no gaps. Could I use the tile saw blade in the radial arm saw to sharpen my tungsten? I figure the equipment is sitting around doing nothing. I could turn it into a dedicated tungsten sharpening device, with appropriate safeguards. Since the arm of the saw moves, I can change the grind angle of the tungsten tip.

    Good idea? Bad idea?
    Jim
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  10. #60
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
    Searched on tungsten sharpening and of the bazillion threads, I picked the most recent one with the most posts. So here I am.

    I have an old radial arm saw that hasn't been doing anything for a few years. I tried to sell it but got no interest. I have one (maybe more) 10" diamond tile saw blade. It's continuous, with no gaps. Could I use the tile saw blade in the radial arm saw to sharpen my tungsten? I figure the equipment is sitting around doing nothing. I could turn it into a dedicated tungsten sharpening device, with appropriate safeguards. Since the arm of the saw moves, I can change the grind angle of the tungsten tip.

    Good idea? Bad idea?
    I found my dry tile blade and it's an 8" blade not 10". Not a big deal. I put the blade on the radial arm saw, put a cheapo tungsten electrode in a cordless drill and went to work. Results look good. I didn't use any angle gauge, I just eyeballed it. It looked good enough that I then sharpened a few good CK electrodes in two different sizes.

    I used eye, ear and breathing protection. If the sharpened electrodes work well for welding, I'll rig up a way to vacuum/capture the tungsten dust. I'll keep an eye on the tile blade for wear. I didn't plan to ever use the blade again, so if it doesn't last long it's no loss.
    Jim
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  11. #61
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    But,,, you're taking up the space of a Radial Arm Saw just to sharpen your tungstens???

    Harbor Freight, $9.99 4" grinder + another 10bucks for a 4" 2-sided 180grt diamond wheel (it's a circular saw sharpening replacement wheel).

    Fits in a shoebox

  12. #62
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by BaTu View Post
    But,,, you're taking up the space of a Radial Arm Saw just to sharpen your tungstens???

    Harbor Freight, $9.99 4" grinder + another 10bucks for a 4" 2-sided 180grt diamond wheel (it's a circular saw sharpening replacement wheel).

    Fits in a shoebox
    The radial arm saw is already here. Might as well put it to use. Once I setup a simple jig, I'll be able to get consistent angles without much work.

    I'm not buying a grinder from HF. It might only last a week.
    Jim
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    2017 F-350 CCLB 6.7L
    2013 Polaris Ranger 900 XP in 2006 Fleetwood Gearbox 220FB using 3" Andersen WDH
    I don't always tow heavy, but when I do, I use my Superduty.
    Here fishy, fishy... ¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸ >< ((( °>

  13. #63
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    I've been using a 6" CBN 180 grit wheel on an ancient Sears bench grinder for about a month. Very happy with it. Does a real nice job.
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  14. #64
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by BaTu View Post
    But,,, you're taking up the space of a Radial Arm Saw just to sharpen your tungstens???

    Harbor Freight, $9.99 4" grinder + another 10bucks for a 4" 2-sided 180grt diamond wheel (it's a circular saw sharpening replacement wheel).

    Fits in a shoebox
    I bought the 3 in her for cheap. Put a stack of muffler cutoff wheels on and sharpen my tungstens on site. Used it many, many times and fits in my toolbox for all of $9. Love those coupons.

    Put a metal cutting carbide blade on that radial saw and cut or bevel tons of alum extrusion.
    Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by BaTu View Post
    But,,, you're taking up the space of a Radial Arm Saw just to sharpen your tungstens???

    Harbor Freight, $9.99 4" grinder + another 10bucks for a 4" 2-sided 180grt diamond wheel (it's a circular saw sharpening replacement wheel).

    Fits in a shoebox
    Better yet, why not use one of the angle grinders you commonly use before and after welding? No mortgage/RA saw/second shop/showbox needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by shovelon View Post
    Put a metal cutting carbide blade on that radial saw and cut or bevel tons of alum extrusion.
    Or just use the carbide wood blade that's on it...

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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin View Post
    Better yet, why not use one of the angle grinders you commonly use before and after welding? No mortgage/RA saw/second shop/showbox needed.



    Or just use the carbide wood blade that's on it...
    True. That will work until the blade wears. The metal cutting board with negative rake is bee's knee's.
    Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
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  18. #67
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by shovelon View Post
    True. That will work until the blade wears. The metal cutting board with negative rake is bee's knee's.
    They work a while, then snag, it gets very spooky. A couple times I've had a tooth ripped off. That is VIOLENT!

    I've been using one of those solid cutting cutting lube sticks. It seems to help.

    I used a cheap Delta wood cutting chop saw until the fence broke. It just won't weld strong enough to hold. I think I needed a fence with a gap just wide enough for the blade.
    An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.

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  20. #68
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    I ViceGrip the Crap out of the Alum I cut in a saw made for wood but it works Really Well with a wood blade, especially when charged with BeesWax (always have a big block of beeswax around for lots of stuff when Aluminum welding )

  21. #69
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    The guys recommending a torch or belt sanders or flap disks all have a lot of experience in TIG welding. They can compensate for a bad tungsten tip, but you probably can’t. They can also use these methods to get the tip right and then know if it is not right. I recommend buying a dedicated diamond wheel and learning to TIG with a properly ground tip. Once you have a lot of experience you can try other methods to see if it affects your weld. As you are learning, and welding is not going well, it would be nice to know that it was not from a poorly sharpened tip because you used a flap disk with contaminants.


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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffrey.penfield View Post
    The guys recommending a torch or belt sanders or flap disks all have a lot of experience in TIG welding. They can compensate for a bad tungsten tip, but you probably can’t. They can also use these methods to get the tip right and then know if it is not right. I recommend buying a dedicated diamond wheel and learning to TIG with a properly ground tip. Once you have a lot of experience you can try other methods to see if it affects your weld. As you are learning, and welding is not going well, it would be nice to know that it was not from a poorly sharpened tip because you used a flap disk with contaminants.
    As I'm brand new to welding, there is a lot to be said for having the tungsten just right. No disagreement there. With my radial arm saw setup, I should be able to get exact angles on the tip. The diamond blade I'm using has never seen another piece of metal, so contamination shouldn't be an issue.

    I wouldn't mind buying a dedicated tungsten sharpening device, but my funds after the welder purchase, as well as the add-ons, are too low. So I'm making do with what I have on hand.
    Jim
    PrimeWeld TIG225X
    2017 F-350 CCLB 6.7L
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  23. #71
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    It's really not about any kind of exact angle though....

    You're not going to be able to tell the difference anytime soon Having the ability to easily sharpen, with a dedicated clean wheel, as you're learning is all about contamination that might be effecting your welds. You want to have a good supply of Tungstens, buy the cheapest (appropriate) 10packs you can find and sharpen them all!

    You want to have a stack of them so you can swap-them-out the first time you dip (and if you're doing this right, and maintaining a close arc, you're gonna be dipping a lot before you get good at this). Clean material, Clean Tungstens, and attention to details and procedures will allow you to know the difference in what it is you might be doing wrong as opposed to poor prep be the reason for a bad looking weld.

    The other thing I want to say to anybody who's learning TIG is to Forget all the pictures you see everywhere of perfect looking welds. It's unfortunate that it's all you see posted-up on the net. The truth is all those posters are uploading their Very Best work! That will come later, it's like me trying to sew a sleeve on a shirt, it doesn't look like a tailor's work but it will hold just as well. It takes quite a while to learn to be able to make it look that way

  24. #72
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by jfk92 View Post
    Anyone have/use the Eastwood tungsten grinder they were promoting a ton end of last year? Think it was just over about $100?
    I have a bench top belt sander in one shop, a bench grinder in another shop. I use the belt sander the most with a 60 grit belt, its easier to make a good point on it with a hand drill to turn it. I'll use my 4-1/2" grinder if I have to sharpen when working in a remote location. Was curious about the eastwood grinder, I think it would be very handy. Especially on the 1/16" tungstens, getting a good shape might save me some tungsten. When field sharpening 1/16" on the 4-1/2" grinder , I tend to remove more material trying to get the point I want. After watching a few video reviews, I was impressed by how few sparks it made when grinding. Just wondering how long the wheels lasted, the motor part looks like a dremel tool.
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  25. #73
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    Quote Originally Posted by albrightree View Post
    I have a bench top belt sander in one shop, a bench grinder in another shop. I use the belt sander the most with a 60 grit belt, its easier to make a good point on it with a hand drill to turn it. I'll use my 4-1/2" grinder if I have to sharpen when working in a remote location. Was curious about the eastwood grinder, I think it would be very handy. Especially on the 1/16" tungstens, getting a good shape might save me some tungsten. When field sharpening 1/16" on the 4-1/2" grinder , I tend to remove more material trying to get the point I want. After watching a few video reviews, I was impressed by how few sparks it made when grinding. Just wondering how long the wheels lasted, the motor part looks like a dremel tool.
    Hey albrightree - so - this is an old thread - funny as I received a PM with some feedback and thoughts on the same Eastwood grinder. I ended up pulling the trigger on it despite all the genius's that sh*t on it in various online adds - yes - it's the same as a dremmel - but has a nice adapter on the top of it. I bought it for $79 during a promotion - and love it. it's easy, portable - and I get consistency just as everyone else does on their wheel, belt, angle grinder etc. for me - this is just "slightly quicker and slightly more consistent" - I had no issues using a bench grinder - this saves me what - 10 steps or so to the bench grinder in my shop, maybe 30 sec? no matter - I like it. for the same reason I bought probably 3 or so harbor freight cheapo angle grinders ($15-20 each?!) - I have them all setup with different disks - knotted wire, flap disk, cutting disk, grinding disk (I also have a WEN for anyone counting "that's 4") - it's so convenient to grab, plug in and do what is needed - rather than switch disks - I can but don't have to - anyway - I use the Eastwood grinder - more some days than others LOL - no disk wear that's significant. It's like the Dunkin Donuts app - it's convenient to order on the way - walk past the line - and get on with life!

  26. #74
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    JFK92,
    Thanks for the review, thats kinda what I wanted to know. I've never bought anything from Eastwood before, and it looked reasonable. When doing work on a big site/factory it can be a pain to go all the way back to the shop to grind a tungsten, and shooting sparks all over can get unwanted attention. Sounds like what I'm looking for, hopefully I can catch it on sale soon. They also have some sheet metal mini-brakes that might come in handy for some thin gauge stainless worK I have coming up soon. Wondering if anybody has used one of those.
    Between home and work shops I have about 8 grinders 1 Metabo(another one disappeared) 4 milwaukee, 2 cordless Dewalt 20v(1 home, 1 shop), 1 porter cable, and 1 B&D 9" Industrial grinder, 1 Makita 7" sander polisher(works on lower rpm, but works great with a zirconia flap wheel when smoothing welds in sheet metal). Each shop usually has 1 brush, 1 grinding wheel, 1 cutting disc. The Dewalts usually have cutting disc on to do quick bolt, and part cutting, and short prep for repair welds. Its just handy to have them set-up when you need them. I've never bought anything from Harbor Freight , but maybe now that they have a couple of new stores near me , I might stop in to see what they have.
    I haven't used the Dunkin app yet, not sure it would work on my weatherized flip phone. But if it made my life easier, I would use it.
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  27. #75
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    Re: Sharpening Tungsten

    My priorities are a free hand ability to grind shaft of the tungsten. When you dip in molten aluminum, you sometimes get an aluminum coated shank all the way up to the collet. I grind the shaft clean. I've heard experts say break 1-1/4" off the tungsten, start over. I've had OK results grinding.

    Another concern to me is the grind scratches. They should run parallel to the shaft. Electron flow gets erratic when scratches spiral around the point.

    I choose a wheel pulling from shank to point straight away. A bench grinder laid on its back works well for me. Mine cost $110.
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