Eaton Compressor/Polar Air 10HP 80ga 2-stage single phase compressor

[Sberry]

There is a t in there top of the receiver with short drop tube, one side goes toi the main manifold and the hose there goes to an outlet near my bench, can keep it live with the rest of it off. 200 gallons of tanks and 350 ft or so of pipe.
It works so well I am not gonna mess with it and "make it better" and if I did would simply make the main riser from a 2 inch vs the 3/4 I have, basically a condensate column but I really dont need it.

[ToolFanGeoff]

Oscar, are you considering a new compressor? Something to power those 3M grinders and more? Maybe i am mistaken, but I thought i read you were thinking about upgrading. It is hard for me to believe your 10 hp unit is not enough...
Geoff

[Oscar]

Oscar, are you considering a new compressor? Something to power those 3M grinders and more? Maybe i am mistaken, but I thought i read you were thinking about upgrading. It is hard for me to believe your 10 hp unit is not enough...
Geoff

Yea I'm considering it, but it's only 50/50 right now. Those 3M grinders are big boy grinders; easily 50+ CFM under full load bearing down on them. They will bring that 10HP compressor (by itself) to it's knees (meaning pressure drops below 90psi) in about 6 or 7 minutes.

[whtbaron]

Does that home hobby shop of yours have enough juice to run 2 10's on single phase?

[Oscar]

Does that home hobby shop of yours have enough juice to run 2 10's on single phase?

Not sure, but even if it did it's not a route that I'd want to take.

[ToolFanGeoff]

Are you considering a rotary screw unit? It seems 10hp rotary screw units advertise in the 40+cfm range?
I am guessing you have considered it, but would a large receiver tank work for you? It could be a relatively cheap way to double your working time before dropping below 90 psi. Do you run an air grinder 15 minutes continuously? (I know I don't, that is why I am asking.) I think a lot of us are interested in where this goes.

[Oscar]

Are you considering a rotary screw unit? .

Some can be found in my browser history.

I don't always run them super long, but then when I do more air is always welcome The make-shift "turbochargers" (the auxiliary 120V compressors that are piggy-backed) make just enough to keep everything satisfied for now; each one provides about 5CFM each.

[shelby]

Its 2 conductors and ground but,,,, it might call for it in pipe though. Oscar said he measured the run and do not recall what the plate said but technically a 10 hp would take a 4 if in a cable, in the real world it wont matter. That is a light 10, I think mathematically it works out to about 9 or so. Motor wire goes by hp and the chart was written when the voltage was 220. Millions of 5hp comps running from 10 cable and 30 breakers.

I assumed that there was a 4/2 with ground Romex available, turns out that that is an incorrect assumption. I did see 4/3 although Lowes shows it as unavailable.

When running two individual #4 AWG insulated copper wires(will a SIMpull THHN wire work?) do I just use a bare ground? If it's behind drywall do they need to be in conduit or can I just staple them to the framing?

Thanks.

[Sberry]

You could use flex conduit but...... this being single circuit a 6 is way good for 10 hp. I think Oscar said he had the 4 but if it was mine and i was buying the wire woulfd be 6 and can use a 10 ground, even 8 if we ever think it will need bresker larger than 60.
Something to consider is pipe can be simple in some cases. Dont need every fitting they ever invented. There are also "appliance" whips, might call them AC whips in various lengths, wires already in it. .
. The suggestion to use the right wire is often drowned out by v drop concerns or more correctly obsessive worry. My neighbor ask this, i tell him number 10 and as usual he gonna make it better,,, and it was only a few dollars more and spend 2 hrs trying and cobbling the wires in to the small enclosure designed for 10.
If i was on a longer run, north of 75 or 100 ft would buy a number 2 alum cable, maybe even 3 conductor and a 6 space panel for local breaker and disconnect, transition to whip.
Mine is piped, have 2 comps, gives local breaker to each. 3/4 pipe will take 2 6s and a 10.

[ToolFanGeoff]

Oscar,
Any update?
I am asking because I am thinking of upgrading my air supply. Currently I have a 5hp 2 stage 80 gal. I am considering options: a second compressor, a larger compressor, or adding a receiver tank (120 to 200 gal.) Each option has desirable attributes. I like the cool factor of a bigger compressor. Two compressors that could be coupled together would give the cfm output for blasting - but I don't do this enough to justify it - at this time. A large tank is really the most practical solution for me. I could have a valve to isolate the tank or use the tank as needed.
I am curious to see how you are solving your air needs, as my compressor upgrade need is similar to yours, but on a smaller scale.
Geoff

[Oscar]

Nothing new as of yet. Right now all my air needs are solved by the quadruple paralleled compressors yielding ~ 50 SCFM or so.

[Sberry]

This certainly depends on app. I like smaller unit as a master, or 1 unit and another as backup/demand slave. I use the tanks for both and the breaker is even off to the second unit, really dont need it except for blasting a little and can even add another if I really want to but never do. My air is on 24/7, about 200 gallons or so and even with 3 hp main I really have to work to outrun it and thats only minor delay at worst. I have them valve isolated and plumbed to a common tank and common drains.
The silver tank is the receiver, there is a drain in the bottom and air leaves the top after a simple baffle. It goes to the main manifold and to a single station behind the bench allowing main system shut off and keep a live hydrant. Either comp can be removed via pallet jack, fully valve isolated, in a burst this is a parallel feed so to speak, both tanks connected to input. While the 1/2 hydraulic hoses are not huge as are the 1/2 valves there is 2 of them and I terminate with 1/2 pipe, bunch of the main turns and valving 3/4 before the runs.
Thing is,,, I never really need more than I have, I was short a bit earlier but i9t wasnt a deal breaker and caught up to it eventually where this is the last fundamental revision. If y 3 blew up tomorrow would replace it with 5 to meet a little peak sanding demand if I had more work going on.
A bud of mine with small crew has single 10 hp shop but has real sturdy service 3 ph and 10 is adequate, he could easily support 25 but it works. Takes 5 hp for 1 man, 71/2 2 or 3 and 10 4 men maybe more with common tools not including blasting and out and out real body shop. Mechanic tool needs pressure not so much volume long time like sanding. It takes 5 hp for operator to sand without consi9dering air management, on my stuff I been using so long that I am used to it all and instinctual now. My neighbor pumped a tractor tire the other day said, yours didnt even start and mine would have trouble doing it,,, ha

[Sberry]

I have used air for hard disk and its fine as long as someone else is giving the air away. I use it for cut off and wire wheel but I use a 4 1/2 so often we use electric. So much less noise and power, uses a small cord. Once we found suitable economy grinders it was a bonus.

[Sberry]

If I was setting up a common general shop today would start with a good 5 hp and add another one for boost demand and tank if I needed it and wanted to do a little blasting. All this still operates on most common hoses pipe and fitting sizes. Sandblast does not take a bigger pipe,,, it takes a bigger pump. Its a little like welding lead, other cords and hoses and wiring. There is a minimum function standard and then adequate and it goes up from there. A small pipe not so good but a medium works better but a bigger one doesnt help much more after a certain point has been met, it may help with available energy, burst a bit at the extreme top end but after a while when a guy gets uysed to it all finds better may be bvetter but it often come at more cost than meets the eye if it doesnt appreciate.
I wish they had internet when I had to buy it all new, now days would be buying air at a fraction of the cost used,,, maybe on the stump as fixxer upper or salvage. In a typical hobby maint garage a guy be well served by 5 hp 2 stage unit with 80 jug on it,,, hard to beat, moddest on the electric service, short recharge time. With a pinch of patience can change out heavy truck tires if he had to. I had a bud not buying omne cause he thinks he needs 10 to do this work and does not, a 5 will air a tire in a cycle. A 3 will, a 5 has bigger jug and ports and will run bigger guns limited.
In my own case 3/4 guns as big as I use and that is so rare I run it from my common lines, just plain dont have a demand higher than 1/2 steel 2 stage will deliver.

[shelby]

Question for the experts, will the 60 amp disconnect in the link work for the 10hp single phase Polar Air compressor? I'm ordering four (60 amp disconnects are a lot cheaper than 30 amp disconnects) of them for the AC units for the shop. If it will work, I'll order 5.

Square D 60 Amp 2-Pole Non-fusible Enclosed Molded Case Switch Disconnect in the Electrical Disconnects department at Lowes.com

• The Square D by Schneider Electric QO 60 amps 240-volt 7.5 kilowatt non-fused air conditioner disconnect features a rainproof enclosure designed for outdoor installations
• Use to disconnect power to air conditioner equipment
• Rainproof outdoor enclosure
• Not fusible
• Does not contain over current protection
• Single-phase, 2-wire, 60 amp , 240 vac
• Maximum horsepower is 10
• Enclosed molded case switch
• Meets UL and ANSI safety requirements

If anyone is interested, here is a link to the manual:
piston compressor manual REV022621 (eatoncompressor.com)

[12V71]

Question for the experts, will the 60 amp disconnect in the link work for the 10hp single phase Polar Air compressor? I'm ordering four (60 amp disconnects are a lot cheaper than 30 amp disconnects) of them for the AC units for the shop. If it will work, I'll order 5.

Square D 60 Amp 2-Pole Non-fusible Enclosed Molded Case Switch Disconnect in the Electrical Disconnects department at Lowes.com

• The Square D by Schneider Electric QO 60 amps 240-volt 7.5 kilowatt non-fused air conditioner disconnect features a rainproof enclosure designed for outdoor installations
• Use to disconnect power to air conditioner equipment
• Rainproof outdoor enclosure
• Not fusible
• Does not contain over current protection
• Single-phase, 2-wire, 60 amp , 240 vac
• Maximum horsepower is 10
• Enclosed molded case switch
• Meets UL and ANSI safety requirements

If anyone is interested, here is a link to the manual:
piston compressor manual REV022621 (eatoncompressor.com)

Does it have a lock-out feature? If not you might as well have a plug you can drop on the floor when servicing the compressor. The only disconnects I trust are the blade type with a real lock-out feature.

[shelby]

It does not appear to have a lockout.

Another question, should the 60 amp breaker be GFCI?

[Sberry]

. Home doesn't require a formal lockout. Air comp doesn't need GFCI but,, there are couple ground issues depending on how it's wired. 60 and below can be wired cable. Some call for up size ground depending on max allowed breaker.

[Sberry]

Nice simple manual. The code calls for motors to be wired according to hp. This unit is as close to 7:5 as it is 10 as I recall, kind of like the 5 hp that run at 22A. As I recall the run on these is under 40 but that is from memory and shouldn't be quoted as a fact. On a short modest run a 6 wouldn't cause me loss of sleep.

[Oscar]

Question for the experts, will the 60 amp disconnect in the link work for the 10hp single phase Polar Air compressor? I'm ordering four (60 amp disconnects are a lot cheaper than 30 amp disconnects) of them for the AC units for the shop. If it will work, I'll order 5.

Square D 60 Amp 2-Pole Non-fusible Enclosed Molded Case Switch Disconnect in the Electrical Disconnects department at Lowes.com

• The Square D by Schneider Electric QO 60 amps 240-volt 7.5 kilowatt non-fused air conditioner disconnect features a rainproof enclosure designed for outdoor installations
• Use to disconnect power to air conditioner equipment
• Rainproof outdoor enclosure
• Not fusible
• Does not contain over current protection
• Single-phase, 2-wire, 60 amp , 240 vac
• Maximum horsepower is 10
• Enclosed molded case switch
• Meets UL and ANSI safety requirements

If anyone is interested, here is a link to the manual:
piston compressor manual REV022621 (eatoncompressor.com)

It should work just fine. I have mine on a SquareD non-GFCI 60A breaker QO260CP with 4awg run about 12ft.

[Sberry]

Whoops, I c u said shop. If the comp was local to the panel would use the breaker in the panel and hate to interrupt a good wire to put that in between.

[52 Ford]

I dont see what the big deal is with needing a breaker. The entire time Ive had my compressor, I've never once used it with a circuit breaker. In fact, I don't see any good way to add one. It DOES have a low oil shut off on the engine, though. Maybe add it in-line with that?



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[Lis2323]

The only disconnects I trust are the blade type with a real lock-out feature.

[52 Ford]

Sorta amazing that you just happen to have a large red arrow on the wall point to that. How....... serendipitous.

I prefer this style. https://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Shut-.../dp/B000MTI182

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