Oh, Why Not

[farmersammm]

Anyways, it really machined pretty nice, even with the out of round wear. Kept it around 120rpm due to the interrupted cuts. Worked out ok without destroying an insert.



I was concerned about brinelling the bearings due to the pretty hefty clamping force to keep everything tight, and locked up, inside the hub. Looks as if I got by without any damage.



Other than some odds, and ends...……..that's about it till the end mills get here. Coulda just driven in to get them......gotta drive over there to get a 5" mic

[farmersammm]

Had some time to work on the thing yesterday.

I need to make a template in order to bore the stud holes to size. The bolt pattern is 6 on 6.



I'm not a math guy by any means. Just ain't my thing. But I did find a very good tutorial on YouTube.

Good simple way to do things using two right triangles.

Anyways...………………….set my dividers.



Starting at one point, and walking the dividers around the circle, center punching each point as ya go.



Works great if you get your punch marks dead nutz on the line/intersection

[farmersammm]

But not so great if'n ya don' hit yer mark

The one on the right side of the line was the first attempt. The one on the left side of the line was the second attempt.....the punch slid off the "hill" and wound up somewhere in the South 40 )

All, in all, it's a pretty good method for laying out the pattern. But it isn't spot on...………………..I was about the diameter of one punch mark out of tolerance when checking the pattern by walking the dividers around the circle using the punch marks.

While the diameter of a punch mark ain't a killer (this ain't the Space Shuttle), I'm not sooooper doooooper pleased with it. Any slight error on ANY of the punch marks compounds itself as you progress around the circle.

Gonna pop it on the rotary table to check the accuracy, and probably actually wind up using the rotary table. I didn't wanna mess with the rotary table because it involves making a stinkin' fixture to hold the dam plate to the stinkin' table

[BD1]

[QUOTE=farmersammm;8726747]But not so great if'n ya don' hit yer mark

The one on the right side of the line was the first attempt. The one on the left side of the line was the second attempt.....the punch slid off the "hill" and wound up somewhere in the South 40 )

Have you tried auto center punch ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[12V71]

[QUOTE=BD1;8726748]

But not so great if'n ya don' hit yer mark

The one on the right side of the line was the first attempt. The one on the left side of the line was the second attempt.....the punch slid off the "hill" and wound up somewhere in the South 40 )

Have you tried auto center punch ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup, that's the way to go. I don't punch any thing until the dividers walk it out right after a couple of tries.
Seems to me that a short set of divider legs (3-4") are usually more accurate.

[farmersammm]

Hell, I was doin' pretty good till the last hole

Didn't get a chance to put it on the rotary table, had to move 40 bales today. Got guys cryin' to get the hay off their place. Idiots don't seem to realize we've had a weekly rain storms. I'm workin' in a muddy mess, and still got mud holes where I'm dumping. I tore up the doods driveway today, maybe that was a little lesson for the guy Got 64 (one 40, and one 24)more to haul. Be the usual drill...…….they regret the pissed off attitude once I come in and trash their place. My favorite is when they dig a trench with the tractor trying to push the bales on the trailer. Ground may look dry after a week, but it's mud underneath.

[cwby]

You can "walk" your punch mark to center. Hold punch at a 30 degree angle towards center & use light blows to walk it over, then one good blow at 90 degrees & your golden.

[oldandslow]

You can "walk" your punch mark to center. Hold punch at a 30 degree angle towards center & use light blows to walk it over, then one good blow at 90 degrees & your golden.

That works.

[farmersammm]

Throw in a pair of good eyes,, and I ought to be better at it Only see clear out of one eye these days...……..sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Speakin' of eyes...…………...I've been eyeballin' one of those slender "precision" punches. The one I use is a squatty thing with not very much ground angle at the point. Hard to actually see the tip.

Anyways...………..on with the comedy movie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[farmersammm]

After last afternoon's bale fiasco...…….I decided I'd had enough, and spent the evening cooing on the couch with K'kins

Bales sat in water, got soaked, and flat on the bottom. Dumped ok when I had a slight incline to the right side of the trailer, but crapped out on me when the trailer was just slightly more level side to side Didn't have the heart to tell the guy to roll them before he loaded them.....poor dood was on the verge of a heart attack anyways.

Made some fixtures for holding the plate on the rotary table.



The little blocks will come in handy when it comes time to bore the holes in the wheel disc.

Used the Uranus Penetrator () Marketing guys thought that name would be a sure fire seller. Easy way to find rough center, only off a few thousands.....about .004 to be exact. My collets leave a lot to be desired, but they's paid for.



Made final dialing in a breeze.



On the centering tool...…………..The mill has about .0005 runout inside the bore. An end mill, held in a collet, has about .0025 runout at the collet.....same with a good quality ground HSS tool blank, and it increases the further down ya go...…..to about .004. I figure that's about normal for a machine of this nature. Gotta probably spend the big bucks to get tighter. .004 at about 4" below the collet is ok in my book, all things considered.

[farmersammm]

Used the wiggler to center the plate up. Some things you can buy import, but these gotta be Starrett...….they're the only ones that will actually spin true.



Now it's sphincter time Did the manual layout really suck as bad as I thought it did?

The scribed line is out by about the thickness of the scribed line (We're assuming the leadscrew is accurate on the mill)



These aren't the best, or the worst...……...they're the average as ya go around the circle. If a guy only used the manual layout, he'd be pretty close to the ballpark.

The Mother Of All Clusterf**** was a clusterf*** as expected But if a guy eyeballed it, he'd still be confident the stupid wheel would fit the hub.

Sorta looks like the Moon

So...…………..if'n the boys at NASA call ya to do a job that's called out within half a dimple...………………..you're ready to rock without the fancy rotary table

[farmersammm]

Now...……...about that high fallutin' rotary table...…….

I didn't know what was good or bad, when I bought this stuff...…………..just figured it would come in handy one day. Day I bought the mill, I had doggone near a pickup truck full of stuff that I thought I'd need one day. Checkbook was bleeding when I left the store.

This is an unacceptable Vernier IMHO...…………………………………..



Had I known better, back then, I'd of looked for a table with 10 second divisions, AND DIALS WITH BETTER MARKINGS.

[farmersammm]

Pushed the bales off the trailer with the t bar thingy I made years ago. Usually use it to push stuff off a flatbed trailer with the loader. Anyways...…...you can never have enuff stuff



Then, it's off to grab another load.

Got back,, and started in on the template again.

Leetle holes......

And the bigger hole that will become center for indicating on the faceplate when the inside of the template is bored to size.

[Oxford1]

Or you could go to Shoup and buy exactly what you're building for $20 each.

https://www.shoupparts.com/RR6600-6-...forcement-Ring

[farmersammm]

Or you could go to Shoup and buy exactly what you're building for $20 each.

https://www.shoupparts.com/RR6600-6-...forcement-Ring

Those would be great if the hub wasn't ruined to some degree, and the offset needing adjustment. The real work is in the template (templates). The center discs are gonna be plug and chug. You'll see the need for a template when I get back to work on it.

[farmersammm]

The Comedy continues

I'm not able to comfortably use the faceplate. The parts are just a bit too small in one dimension for good clamping, and a little large in diameter for clamping that'll allow turning the outside diameter.

So...…...another (of many) fixture thingy.

The bar that will hold stuff in the 3 or 4 jaw.



I used an annular cutter, but was surprised at the taper it cut. Almost .0015 .





While it ain't a Disaster Of Monumental Cosmic Consequence...…….it's a problem This is gonna be a shrink fit connection.

Cleaned it up with a die grinder, and a very fine stone.

[farmersammm]

The pin was turned to about +.0025



And...….Sammy discovered the magic properties of ScotchBrite



The center hole in the pin wasn't used to turn the piece. Its sole purpose is to make it easier to rough in the adjustment when mounting this thing in a 4 jaw.

I've never done a shrink fit, so I'm a bit unsure of myself when it comes to dimensions. I'm at about +.0025 total interference.

I'm relying on Machinery's for the fit tolerances.

This is a 1.132ish diameter pin where it connects to the bar...……………..



I'm aiming for an FN4 fit, which is specified for parts under a large amount of stress. In this case...…...this pin's gotta resist the torque when something is mounted on the bar, and turned to size.



I feel that increasing the interference will distort the bar, and possibly cause it to yield...……..thereby taking the ooooomph out of the fit...…….you're counting on the bar to apply tension to the pin. If you stretch the hole, it's a lost cause. There simply isn't enough meat around the hole to get carried away with a tighter fit IMHO. But...…...who knows......never have done a shrink fit before.

I considered running a bead around the pin, but don't want to distort the bar. It's a bit of an experiment, and I suppose I'm the one that's gonna pay if it doesn't work.

Once it's all assembled, I'm planning on rounding the edges of the bar on the outside diameter. If I do get whacked by the dam thing, I don't want it to cut down to the bone with any sharp edges. 12" is a lot of iron to be swinging around, with yours truly close to it.

[farmersammm]

Should have it together in the AM, but I thought I'd put up a pic to show the relative size of the stupid thing, and the danger it could pose in terms of getting clobbered, or having it fly off the hub. I gots some fluorescent marker paint...…...might just put a dab on the ends of this thing.

[idacal]

I did a fit a few months ago that was such a comedy of errors that i couldnt post the pictures i got a 10 lite jug of nitrogen set the shaft in that and startd heating the gear in oil. like a tight *** i didnt use new oil just some that was left over next thing i know i have steam and oil flaming 20’ in the air it had got a little water in it made it look like a roman candle. Finally got the fire out by now my nitrogen has mostly boiled off, my gear is only around 200 degrees. I went for it anyway 5” inches of the gear slid on 2” did not, thankfullyy we had machined a stop on the shaft my guy grabbed a 16 lbs sledge tapped it once and it set in place. Then i started breathing again, we must have looked like the keystone cops bouncing around.

[farmersammm]

Sounds like about how I do most things

[farmersammm]

Drum roll...……………………………………………...

Heated the bar up to about 800*, and it just plopped right in (whew!!) I believe it started to grab within about a few seconds. Amazing stuff MIld steel can be heated pretty high without damaging it. Makes the job a breeze with this thin stuff (1/2")



Next up...….some stuff to align centers on the discs.

A button that fits the bore.



Turn it around to drill a center hole. (Gettin' real good at this 4 jaw crapola. Setup time is getting shorter)

The center hole is for locating the discs on the turning fixture.

[farmersammm]

Locate the fixture in the chuck.

[farmersammm]

Now, it all comes together...…..all the parts and pieces

Center hole is used to center the workpiece on the fixture for clamping.





Get around to turning it tomorrow, then I have a template for boring the stud holes in the hubs. Meanwhile...………. (Yeah, it's Monday)

[snowbird]

Nice work! Keep your distance!

[Oxford1]

You’re fighting the good fight, I guess, but at end of the day, you’re still going to have a loader tractor with a light-duty front end and shot hubs picking up what look like bales of wet garbage. Put a front end,that will stand the gaff under a tractor and be done with it and then spend your time getting your hay made and fixing your corrals so you don’t lose cows stuck in the mud.