Oh, Why Not

[farmersammm]

Everything else is in sad shape, why not add a bit more...………..Hell...……..it's only time and money

Dried out enough to unload the hay, and put out some for the Gurlz.

I happen to look at the front wheel on the tractor

Now ain't that just PEACHY

Still gotta get hay out.....supposed to rain for the next 2 days, along with falling temps. So I counterbalance the tractor to keep the weight to a minimum on the front axle.



Put hay out for the cows on real bad rough ground. Just creeping along to keep the wheel from caving in. Then after the gurlz are fed, I unload the truck/trailer

How I made it through feeding, and unloading, is a true miracle. The damage increased with every rotation of the wheel.







Every one, but one, of the holes has a crack radiating from it. It's either a ton of welding to repair it, or make a new center disc to weld in. This is a pretty regular thing with these old tractors. They weren't made for heavy front end loads back in the day.

So, let's go over the list, just to refresh our memories

Swather still needs work.
Brush Hog is down with bad seals, and possible bent shaft.
1/2 ton Ford needs work on driveshaft, and ABS
and, of course...…...the Allis is now down.

And we're supposed to get solid rain for 2 days

[farmersammm]

This wheel was repaired before, about 5yrs ago. Same problem...….radiating cracks from the lug nuts. Once something gets wormy, it just keeps on showing problems. Like a dog chasing its tail.

[welderj]

That is a standard duty rim, they make heavy duty rims for that use. They look the same but are thicker material. It's rare a repaired one will last, but I have seen it work. It's amazing how much engineering is in a rim like that, lots of things going on for such a simple item.

Jon

[John T]

Looks like all the cracks started at the bolt holes.... are the bolt sizes/shoulders correct? Maybe you can make that a tighter fit... to avoid any micro movement....

I don't like those square holes either... are they used for anything? one crack went right to it...... Come to papa...

[jeffrey.penfield]

If you dropped the front bale and just used the bale spear in the rear, your front tires would have had almost no weight on them.


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[Zimm]

Sometimes replacement is the best repair.

[farmersammm]

Sometimes replacement is the best repair.

Yeah, you're probably right. I've replaced a couple over the years. About $120 plus shipping for an 8.00 x 16 steering rim. I can usually get about 3ish years out of them before they start to crack.

BUT If I make a new center disc, I get to buy a nice set of 60* chamfering cutters (well, not great, but ok ones). About $80 for the set, and I've got them when I'm done.

To do it right...………………………..

The thing needs a new set of hubs. The threads are wallowed on the old hubs. Lug bolts won't thread in anymore, so they're secured by nuts on the backside of the hub (hubs are still fine on the other Allis, but it eats rims too). So, we're talkin' about 160+shipping on new hubs. And another, at least 100 on new bearings for those hubs. So, about 3-350 bucks total just on hubs. Add the new wheels (about 300ish with shipping), and you get to around 5-600 dinero's

https://stores.djstractorparts.com/a...-lug-70261418/

BUT I GOT SOMETHIN' DIFFERENT IN MIND FOR THAT MONEY

https://shop.pneudart.com/cattle-178...range-package/

The two of us are getting old. I'm Social Security age, and Cow Patty is fast gettin' up there. Neither one of us is up to fighting the critters anymore. She's still tough as nails, but she ain't got the zip she used to She doesn't have that spring in her step, like she used to, when hauling a sack of feed

[Zimm]

Well, if you get some tools out of the deal, have at it. You got the talent and technology. Be interesting to see if you could make a new set of hubs. That would be cool to see. Wheel centers should definitely be doable, especially for a low speed application. Got an indexing table for the mill? I know you can weld a little.

[farmersammm]

Who says it can't be entertainin' to medicate???????????

I looked at the Cap Chur system, and I don't like the price of the projectiles, and they don't have slow inject mode.



We're probably gonna go with the Pneu Dart system. Disposable projectiles. Stick in the hide feature, and slow inject feature.

[farmersammm]

Well, if you get some tools out of the deal, have at it. You got the talent and technology. Be interesting to see if you could make a new set of hubs. That would be cool to see. Wheel centers should definitely be doable, especially for a low speed application. Got an indexing table for the mill? I know you can weld a little.

I have a small rotary table that indexes, just have to see if the clearance is good enough to do it. Otherwise, have to mark, and drill the holes without it.

I won't attempt the hubs, just the wheel center. I'm not sure how easy it is to tap the hubs if I fill the wallowed holes with 7018. I'm pretty sure brazing wouldn't be strong enough to hold the bolts in the thread.

[M J D]

I'm sure they have studs available that use a larger section where the knurling is. Ecklind has a large variety of wheel studs. Just drill and ream the existing holes and press in new studs. IMO that's a better setup than using those threaded conical headed wheel bolts.

[welderj]

I'm sure they have studs available that use a larger section where the knurling is. Ecklind has a large variety of wheel studs. Just drill and ream the existing holes and press in new studs. IMO that's a better setup than using those threaded conical headed wheel bolts.

A lot of farm machinery uses bolts that thread into the hubs rather than studs.

Jon

[M J D]

A lot of farm machinery uses bolts that thread into the hubs rather than studs.

Jon

I'm very well aware of that. A stud enables you to use off the shelf oversize lug nuts which go a long ways in holding power to help prevent tear out.

[Lis2323]

A lot of farm machinery uses bolts that thread into the hubs rather than studs.

Jon

I’ve had lots of those and HATE them with a passion.

[455dan]

Looks like those hubs were originally set up for the wheels to be Hub- centric
but the wheels that cracked have a slightly over sized diameter to them??

Saving money by buying needed tools/tooling to get a job done always sounds good

Subscribed

[Dee_veloper]

Trying to fix everything yourself usually leads to falling behind. Sometimes it's better to replace a few things so you can move onto the next repair job.

Might want to shop around for some used rims.

[farmersammm]

Trying to fix everything yourself usually leads to falling behind. Sometimes it's better to replace a few things so you can move onto the next repair job.

Might want to shop around for some used rims.

That's really not a bad bit of advise.

I'm stuck in the mud right now...literally! We're going on 48hrs of steady rain, and it isn't supposed to end till Saturday afternoon. Can't even lift the tractor to get the wheel off till the ground dries out a bit.

Located some countersinks over in Tulsa. Gonna go grab them tomorrow, and get started on the center disc. At least I can be doing some work while the ground dries out.

The real problem is the wheels.

Originally, these tractors had 7.5-15 (or maybe 16) tires on them. These wheels I'm running now, are 10.00-15's (they might be 16's, not real sure). Anyways, they're an optional wheel that you see on these tractors. Higher flotation, and greater load capacity.

The issue with the wider tires is wheel offset. Due to the wider tire, the wheels are negative offset design. The original, smaller wheels, had zero offset. The negative offset places a lot of strain on the portion of the wheel that attaches to the hub, which is leading to cracking, starting at the lug bolt holes.

I have to stay with the current offset. The tires would hit the knuckle if the offset is changed.

The plan is to do a new disc, and weld it to the remaining dish. A thicker disc, which holds the bolts, will be able to take a lot more strain. (I have a similar problem cropping up on the swather……...one wheel is wallowed out at the bolt holes)

Ag equipment is funny stuff. Anyone who's worked on this stuff knows what I'm talking about. Way overbuilt in some parts of the machine, and woefully underbuilt in other areas.

The old Dodge I had as a kid, had the same issues. They had 6.50-16 tires, and the wheels always cracked at the lug nut holes. Too much leverage on a lightweight assembly. The problem went away when they switched to 9.50-16.5's on the 3/4 ton trucks. Lower profile setup, and less leverage on the hub.

Ultimately, the best design on the light duty trucks was/is the hub centric wheels. The nuts/studs only apply clamping force...…….the weight is directly bearing on the hub casting, instead of the studs.

The rain delay, along with the comments I've read on the thread (thanks!) have given me time, and food for thought. I think I gotta plan now.

[farmersammm]

Little note about the old Dodge wheels...…………

I used to live in Colorado, and did a lot of off-road driving up in the mountains. The 16" wheels, that were made back then (about 40yrs ago), didn't cut the mustard when run on rocky ground. The lo-pro 16.5's solved the problem in one respect.....no more wheel cracking. But the lower clearance created other problems. High centering, and component damage when going over rocks (transfer cases, transmissions, and other stuff).

I used to regularly hold counsel at the local watering hole about 4 wheelin'. Yeah, I had my stupid years as a young guy

A higher wheel (the old 16" narrow tires) were the way to go, when you needed traction, and ground clearance. The new fangled wide tires are just plain ol' stupid.

A narrow, high, tire will do good in mud. It finds the bottom, and it concentrates the weight of the vehicle in a small footprint...…………..and it will give better traction in a slippery situation. I know that there is bottomless mud, but that's irrelevant. Any moron can bury a truck in muck. The real idea is to have a truck that works in relatively bad situations, but not stupid situations.

In deep snow, ice, or reasonable mud...……...gimme a high profile narrow tire. It concentrates vehicle weight where it counts. My old 1964 Power Wagon would out perform the 1978 Power Wagon on slick ground. It failed on rocky ground when it came to wheel damage, but on the slimy stuff...…...it rocked.

I ran my 60's vintage trucks until I was about 21yrs old, or maybe 23. They were old school even at my age back then. Best thing about my 78 was the heater...…...it actually worked...……..and the 400cid motor......a real hauler. The old 78 is still sittin' out there in the yard, and it still ran when I parked it.

[farmersammm]

Made the run to Tulsa this morning. Gotta get tooled up for the fix.

K'kins: "Don't spend too much time at that place" (She knows me to a tee)

EIGHTY ONE DOLLARS, AND A BIT O' CHANGE

All's I went for was the countersink, and ONE end mill

The cool little flashlight just jumped out at me, and I had to add it to the pile. Mighty Mag was a must have for threading. THE BEST DEAL IN THE PILE WAS THE DRILL BIT SELECTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They gotta bin with used bits...…………….SEVENTY FIVE CENTS A POUND They guestimated it at a pound...…..SEVENTY FIVE FRIGGIN' CENTS

So, ya got the countersink at 18, two end mills at about 30, Mighty Mag at around 17, flashlight at 5, drift at 5 (Hargrave made in USA), Teflon tape 5, and the drill bits at under a buck. Holy Sh&t. Crap adds up.

Then, ya gotta stop at Carl's Junior on the way outta town...……..another 7 bucks.

Truck puked while in town...……….f'n RABS is on the fritz. Stupid thing is malfunctioning, and the dump valve is going crazy intermittently. Hit the brakes, and the rears lock up in about half second intervals...…..real fun at 40mph...……….like to tear the azz end off the truck. I hate this automated ****. Gonna have to figure out how to kill the RABS. Thinkin' it's gonna have to be a bypass on the hard tubing. I hate doing the double flare crap on that brake stuff.

Lug nuts on the tractor have a 60* included angle...……….countersink is to do the job.



No guarantee it's gonna dry out enough tomorrow to pull the wheel. This idle time sucks.

[farmersammm]

Real rub is...……….I put out 3 bales at the start of this thread. Thought it might be enough to get thru the rain event. About 3600# of stinkin' hay Turns out, it didn't make it. They're out of hay today, and gotta be fed tomorrow...……………..So...……...quick half azz weld job on the wheel to use it for feeding, then tear it apart for the new center disc after I'm done

And...….K'kins is dog sitting , which means she's only here during daylight hours on the weekend. I hate it when she's gone. Then, she's worn out, and pretty homesick when she gets home for a bit, and now I gotta ask her to help me feed the critters. The money is good, and we need it, but the away time sucks. And, I'm sick of runnin' over there, and bringing supper, then having to get back home at night. Do what ya gotta do.

[Lis2323]

Too bad the countersink wasn’t in the 75 cent/pound pile. You coulda had lunch twice.


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[farmersammm]

Too bad the countersink wasn’t in the 75 cent/pound pile. You coulda had lunch twice.


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Here's somethin' I, and possibly you, need to get worried about...…….

They got the "beyond beef" or some sorta horse**** like that now at Carl's. Stinkin' veggie burger.

I asked the lady if they're selling a lot of them. She said they're selling pretty well. This is gonna spell the end of the beef industry. Never mind that the morons are eating concentrated protein, which contains concentrated Roundup, and Dicambra…………...they think it's healthy because it's plant based. F'n veggie burgers contain more fat than real beef.

[shortfuse]

I think the beef industry will survive...I'll bet there are more carnivores out there than herbivores...me, I LOVE my beef!!! To me the biggest fear for the beef industry is not the veggie burgers, but the on-again, off-again controversy over red meat. One day they say it's bad, next day it's OK. Can't make their d*mn minds up. (samm....you might look into raisin' chickens...)

[Munkul]

That sucks, Sam. Sometimes you can't catch a break.

Having said that... I've never seen a cracked wheel like that on a Deere or Massey.... Calls the quality of the steel into question...

Can you not afford to lay a concrete pad somewhere on your farm? It would make your life so much easier for fixing things. Doesn't have to be fancy. just somewhere flat and level.

[John T]

Mighty Mag at around 17, ..

Mighty mag looks useful....

Might order one myself...

https://www.westhoffinc.com/measurin...on/mighty-mag/