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Thread: Millermatic 35S Question

  1. #1
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    Millermatic 35S Question

    I'm looking at a Millermatic 35S as a fun project, and need some advice. From the pics, it clearly needs a new gun and work clamp, but otherwise seems to be pretty clean. I know some had the gas solenoid in the gun, and some didn't. Did all of the white face models have the solenoid in the gun, or was their a serial number cutoff to look for? I'm still waiting to hear back on what the serial number is. I think I can get it for $250, so it's not a huge risk.

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Heard back that the serial number is HG039431. That doesn't come back in the manual search on the millerwelds site, but that should work out to the April 1976 manual.
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    It has a mechanical valve in the handle. If the valve works, use it that way until you can afford the update parts. My dad's 35s is the same vintage and still works fine.

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    This is a sweet unit with the spot welder option.

    You can update with newer tips and diffuser.
    https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.ph...ate&highlight=

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    I was able to look at the welder tonight and decided it was worth the risk. I got it home, replaced the power plug and then stripped off about 100' of rusty wire from the spool and powered it up....fan came on, wire feed seems to work properly and respond to the dial, etc. It was missing the regulator, and I don't have the kind with just a nipple for the gas line, so I wasn't able to weld with it. I did strike an arc a couple of times just to see if it would, and it did. The gun and hoses/wires seem fine, but the shield over them is trashed, so I'll have to find a replacement...I'm thinking maybe large shrink wrap, or a short canvas cover like for TIG lines...I'll come up with something.

    Time to order a regulator, work clamp and do a bit of cleaning so she's ready to go!
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Quote Originally Posted by guajilloweld03 View Post
    This is a sweet unit with the spot welder option.

    You can update with newer tips and diffuser.
    https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.ph...ate&highlight=
    My gun and consumables look different:

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Looking at the miller manual, the gun side is 1/8" male pipe thread. To use bernard or miller parts you would need 1/8" to 1/4" male pipe thread brass fitting.

    Look up bernard ds-1 diffuser and T series tips and choose a nozzle. Also need a insulator.

    Used heat shrink tubing with adhesive to repair the gun cable assembly.
    Last edited by guajilloweld03; 10-26-2019 at 07:25 PM.

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Quote Originally Posted by guajilloweld03 View Post
    Looking at the miller manual, the gun side is 1/8" male pipe thread. To use bernard or miller parts you would need 1/8" to 1/4" male pipe thread brass fitting.

    Look up bernard ds-1 diffuser and T series tips and choose a nozzle. Also need a insulator.

    Used heat shrink tubing with adhesive to repair the gun cable assembly.
    The gun side seems to be 1/8" female pipe thread. I would think a 1/8 to 1/4 MPT brass fitting would let me use the Bernard 1/4" parts, right?

    Looks like a Bernard 4335 diffuser, 4323R insulator, 7400 series tips and a 4391 nozzle would make a complete package.
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Yes on brass fitting.
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    If you need the liner, get a .030 - .035 miller liner from ebay or welding supply store. They are about 15.00 or less.
    Remove the brass back end, either unscrew or cut it off. Remove the bushing from old liner and reuse it on new liner. Used electrical line pulling lube to Install new liner. Cut new liner to correct length once brass adapter is install on the gun.
    Last edited by guajilloweld03; 10-26-2019 at 10:58 PM.

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    I got one just like your white face a while back and have yet to even plug it in. Missing a gun too but came with a nice regulator.
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    This is a link of discussion MM35 older guns.
    https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...tic-35-mig-gun

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Quote Originally Posted by guajilloweld03 View Post
    This is a link of discussion MM35 older guns.
    https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...tic-35-mig-gun
    Thanks...I found that one as well. I have a regulator inbound today and I'm going to see if I can get it to weld with the original gun setup. The valve and switch in the gun seem okay, but it did need new seals in the valve. If it welds, I'm going to convert the gun to modern consumables and run it a bit. If not, I'll probably start sourcing the parts to add a solenoid and convert it to a modern gun like in the Miller forum discussion.
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Quote Originally Posted by G-ManBart View Post
    Thanks...I found that one as well. I have a regulator inbound today and I'm going to see if I can get it to weld with the original gun setup. The valve and switch in the gun seem okay, but it did need new seals in the valve. If it welds, I'm going to convert the gun to modern consumables and run it a bit. If not, I'll probably start sourcing the parts to add a solenoid and convert it to a modern gun like in the Miller forum discussion.
    Your welcome, a few months ago found a MM200 and a MM35. This is how figured out how to update the guns. The Profax catalog shows pictures with dimensions of all these parts.
    Wish the MM200 & 35 would have come with the spot timer. The MM35 bought it as a non working welder. Found the thermal switch on rectifer was blown. Looked like oil had been spilled on top of machine, then it dripped on capacitor bank and rectifier causing it to over heat. Cleaned it all up, replaced switch and new capacitors and she works great. The rheostat also needed cleaning.

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    So the regulator got here late on Sunday and I didn't have much time to doing any testing. As soon as I connected it and opened the valve I could hear gas coming out of the torch, so I may not have put the new gaskets in the valve properly. Hitting the trigger did increase the sound of gas, but it wasn't flowing out the nozzle enough to be able to weld, so something is wrong.

    I'm probably going to just convert it to an electric solenoid/valve setup and put a modern gun on it similar to the discussion linked above from the Miller forum. I've given it a quick cleaning, replaced the work clamp and pulled the wrapper off. I was shocked how clean it was inside...the picture was taken without any sort of cleaning done to the inside. I really don't think it got used much at all, and that fits with the story the seller told me...it was his grandfather's and sat in his barn.

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Quote Originally Posted by guajilloweld03 View Post
    This is a link of discussion MM35 older guns.
    https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...tic-35-mig-gun
    Just read through that thread. Looks like there are a couple of options. I faintly remember there being some type of wired solenoid where the gun plugs into the outside of the machine and thought it looked kind of odd but understood a little about what appeared to be going on. It would be nice to finally get around to seeing if this machine is salvageable and welds as good as I’ve read that it can.
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Tweco used to sell a kit the adapted the welder for use with a tweco miggun. Gas valve could be mounted on the adapter or
    inside the case. valve got its power from the weld contactor coil. talk to your local welding supply and see it they can order it or have one laying around.

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Quote Originally Posted by ccawgc View Post
    Tweco used to sell a kit the adapted the welder for use with a tweco miggun. Gas valve could be mounted on the adapter or
    inside the case. valve got its power from the weld contactor coil. talk to your local welding supply and see it they can order it or have one laying around.
    Thanks. I've seen references to that kit before, and found some sites showing them available, but they're something like $265. I saw someone comment that Tweco doesn't list the kit, but sells all the parts, so they can put one together for you. The Lincoln adapter mentioned in another thread, along with sourcing my own solenoid and valve should be a lot less expensive and I think I'd be able to get it all together with a gun for less than what the Tweco kit alone costs.

    I'm not trying to make any money on it, but would like to be able to break even if I sell it so my wife doesn't get mad at me
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Maybe this is an old information that you already know about but the gas solenoid (Tweco - MAK-353-S) is available from multiple online sellers but for $150, seems like all of them are united on the price. There is however an eBay seller that's selling the 120VAC (TLAK7-353-S) version for $40. I don't know how helpful that is for you, or if it could be adapted somehow.



    There is also an online store (weldmart online) that has been mentioned on some forums as possibly having that solenoid and a MIG gun for a reasonable price. Worth giving them a call. If you were able to find the solenoid, maybe usaweld would have a gun that can fit?


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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    This is how my 35s came equiped when I got it. Think I paid $50 but I can't quite remember as it was bundled into a deal with a $50 Big Joe lift and Kalamazoo bandsaw. I'd get better pictures but the machine is burried at the moment. It has what appears to be a decent Harris Flow meter hooked up to the gas valve that’s sitting on the outside of the machine where the gun plugs in. Not sure of the gas valve brand. Also I haven't looked yet to see what the serial number indicates for build date and version. Any ideas just by looks if I have the latest version or some hacked work around set up?

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    Last edited by N2 Welding; 10-29-2019 at 03:20 AM.
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    I took the torch apart, put it back together and now I'm getting gas out of the nozzle, but the valve is still leaking even with new gaskets in it. I could push the trigger backwards and get the leak to stop, so I know it's the valve.

    With that in mind, I grabbed a piece of scrap and ran a couple of beads on it. I have to say the arc is very smooth and I was happy with the results.

    I spent a bit of time with the multimeter and found the circuit for the wire feed motor is 12VDC and easily accessible. It actually goes from 12V to 18V as the fine adjustment on the wire speed increases, but that shouldn't be a problem. I found a 12V normally closed solenoid/valve combo that looks pretty decent, and is reported to be popular for welder conversions, so I ordered one. I'm going to order the Lincoln adapter, a Miller 4-pin socket for the gun, and an HTP gun for it and see if we can't get this old girl back dancing.

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Feed motor voltage changes with the weld voltage taps. The speed control is just a fine control. The whole circuit is across the weld voltage.
    Just unplug the yellow jack and the motor will not run. It is best to wire the gas solenoid in parallel with the weld contactor. 24vac

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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Quote Originally Posted by ccawgc View Post
    Feed motor voltage changes with the weld voltage taps. The speed control is just a fine control. The whole circuit is across the weld voltage.
    Just unplug the yellow jack and the motor will not run. It is best to wire the gas solenoid in parallel with the weld contactor. 24vac
    Thanks....I have been meaning to come back to this for an update. I found exactly what you mentioned after I spent a little more time with the multimeter. Around the same time I bought a second 35S that had one of the original Tweco adapter kits on it and that uses a 24V solenoid off the weld contactor as you suggest. They ran it to post #32 and #44 on the terminal strip. I checked that with a meter and it's more like 27V, but within range for the second solenoid I bought. I hadn't used the 12V solenoid so I'm going to return that.

    I went through the second 35S, put a new gun on it, new wall plug, new gas line, new regulator, tightened a loose capacitor, added a new spool of wire, gave it a good cleaning inside and out and then welded a bunch with it in all the taps and wire feed speeds. I have to say I was pretty impressed with the arc quality. I put it on FB marketplace and it was gone the next day. I have to finish the first 35S, but that should be easy at this point...hopefully get to it this weekend.
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

    Just thought I'd follow up with some more details and a few pictures. I used a 1/2" thick piece of acrylic (cutting board from Menard's) as a backer and drilled holes to fit the gun adapter, gun trigger receptacle and power lead. The adapter fit wasn't very tight so I epoxied it in place with JB Weld from both sides and now it's rock solid. You'll want to use nylon washers between the bolt heads and the face of the welder to insulate the bolts.

    I made a bracket for the gas solenoid/valve out of some angle iron and mounted that under the contactor. That gave a pretty smooth path for the gas lines and kept the wire length to the terminal strip reasonable. I pulled 24V AC for the solenoid off the terminal strip at positions 32 and 44.

    There are two things you really want to get right with this conversion. One, try to center the new gun adapter as close to being in line with the wire feed rolls as possible. I used the original hole for the gun as a guide when I drilled the hole through the acrylic. Two, you'll need some of the old monocoil material that wrapped around the liner along with a short section of liner. As you can see in the pics, they used a length of liner at the back part of the wire feed bracket to guide the wire to the feed rollers. On the other side of the roller (front side) the bracket is drilled to a larger diameter than needed if you would just mount a piece of liner in it. The original moncoil was the liner with a plastic shell that slid into the front of the bracket, and was held by a set screw. If you just put a length of liner into the front section it will be out of line with the feed roller. Add a section of the plastic monocoil shell, then slide in a length of liner that goes from the drive roller to the end of the gun liner and secure it with the set screw. If you fail to do that you will get one bird's nest after another (ask me how I know!).

    I think it turned out pretty nice and really like the way it welds....it's got a really nice, smooth arc.

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    Last edited by G-ManBart; 12-10-2019 at 03:57 PM.
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    Re: Millermatic 35S Question

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