I will be putting up a frame for a steel building. I will be welding 14 gauge, 11 gauge, and 3/16 thick material in different positions. Using a Lincoln 225 arc welder. What would you guys that do this all the time recommend? I have used 7014 alot in the past but not sure that is the best for this job. Most of my welding is with MIG but don't have the option of getting my machine lifted up to use that on this job. 6010, 6011, 6013, 7014, or 7018???
Need rod recommendation for welding building frame
txcarbuilder
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I will be putting up a frame for a steel building. I will be welding 14 gauge, 11 gauge, and 3/16 thick material in different positions. Using a Lincoln 225 arc welder. What would you guys that do this all the time recommend? I have used 7014 alot in the past but not sure that is the best for this job. Most of my welding is with MIG but don't have the option of getting my machine lifted up to use that on this job. 6010, 6011, 6013, 7014, or 7018???
Impressive CEP, certainly looks "like a Professional did it!"
txcarbuilder, the 70XX-series electrode is usually what is specified for structural work. The 7018 requires that material be pretty clean.
What are you building that requires 14 ga? That's pretty thin for a frame. Maybe for purlins or girts? Actually, it is pretty thin for stick welding, unless you are proficient with this process. I'm a novice, and I can even burn a hole in 11 gauge (1/8") if I'm not careful.
txcarbuilder, the 70XX-series electrode is usually what is specified for structural work. The 7018 requires that material be pretty clean.
What are you building that requires 14 ga? That's pretty thin for a frame. Maybe for purlins or girts? Actually, it is pretty thin for stick welding, unless you are proficient with this process. I'm a novice, and I can even burn a hole in 11 gauge (1/8") if I'm not careful.
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I would use 6013 1/8” this what used till got mig welder.
Some times the drawing well indicate what rod to use.
Dave
Some times the drawing well indicate what rod to use.
Dave
I'm the electrician, not the welder on steel building frames. I've questioned why the professionals choose one over another. The answer I usually get is: "The engineer specified it."
I see a fair amount of 6010, some 6011. I've heard of using 7018, but I haven't seen it done. 7018 wants everything clean, but is the most certain fusion. 6010, or 6011 will weld through some crud, but is less certain in the fusion.
Messer 80TAC+ is the easiest to use.
I see a fair amount of 6010, some 6011. I've heard of using 7018, but I haven't seen it done. 7018 wants everything clean, but is the most certain fusion. 6010, or 6011 will weld through some crud, but is less certain in the fusion.
Messer 80TAC+ is the easiest to use.
All I was ever allowed to run on any structural job was 7018 for smaw electrode.
Your going to have a hard time welding 14g and 3/16 (out of position) with 7018. Even with 3/32 rod. You need good proficient stick welding skills to do a job like this properly.
Your going to have a hard time welding 14g and 3/16 (out of position) with 7018. Even with 3/32 rod. You need good proficient stick welding skills to do a job like this properly.
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If you want to why 6013 over 7018.
1) It take less skill for 6013
2) works well with small AC welders
3) you do not need a rod oven
1) 7018 takes greater skill to start.
2) need heated to 250°F be for welding
3) a rod oven cost over $200.00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8TSGSC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_thE5Db4GETBCW
Today I would use E71T-11 fast and no heat need
Dave
1) It take less skill for 6013
2) works well with small AC welders
3) you do not need a rod oven
1) 7018 takes greater skill to start.
2) need heated to 250°F be for welding
3) a rod oven cost over $200.00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8TSGSC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_thE5Db4GETBCW
Today I would use E71T-11 fast and no heat need
Dave
80TAC+ works reverse polarity, electrode positive) or you can run it straight polarity, (electrode negative) for thin steel. It'll run OK on AC.
6010 is a DC rod, 6011 is AC or DC. Both penetrate deeply, and are best with painted, rusted, or dirty steel. They are fast freeze, so out of position, they work OK.
Everything but 7018 or 7016 is cellulose flux. It contributes hydrogen. Hydrogen atoms migrate through hot weld until it reaches solid steel. Here, it forms a barrier like PAM cooking spray. I'm exaggerating, but it can in some cases contribute to cracking. Tensile strength of filler metal does not matter if it doesn't stay attached to the steel.
6010 is a DC rod, 6011 is AC or DC. Both penetrate deeply, and are best with painted, rusted, or dirty steel. They are fast freeze, so out of position, they work OK.
Everything but 7018 or 7016 is cellulose flux. It contributes hydrogen. Hydrogen atoms migrate through hot weld until it reaches solid steel. Here, it forms a barrier like PAM cooking spray. I'm exaggerating, but it can in some cases contribute to cracking. Tensile strength of filler metal does not matter if it doesn't stay attached to the steel.
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If using an AC bussbox you may have to use 7018 AC rods.
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I do not know where you this information.
I have been in structural steel for 40 years with C51 License in California.
6013 is for light gauge structural welding.
If not for welding plate structural.
Some times you see drawings sepc the type welding rod to use.
I have noted no here has stayed the right way to weld structural steel with 7018. From per heating rod to per heating the steel.
I have had a lot welders that well only use 7018 will just open the tin and weld.
Dave
I have been in structural steel for 40 years with C51 License in California.
6013 is for light gauge structural welding.
If not for welding plate structural.
Some times you see drawings sepc the type welding rod to use.
I have noted no here has stayed the right way to weld structural steel with 7018. From per heating rod to per heating the steel.
I have had a lot welders that well only use 7018 will just open the tin and weld.
Dave
My first critical welds were 1974. I knew very little, less than now. I welded my first important welds with 1109. It turns out the farm store bought welding rod in bulk. No employee welded, or no one at the counter welded. Pick up a rod, read it, 6011 is 1109 upside down. I was invoiced for hundreds of pounds of 1109 before I knew it was 6011. Despite the confusion, my AC only welder made welds that functioned my whole life without breaking.
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Thanks to everyone who replied. I will probably use 7014 for the heavier stuff and maybe one of the others for the lighter material. The 14 gauge is the purloins and will be welded to both the 11 gauge and the 3/16. This is a small building for my home shop so no engineer drawings with specs. I don't have a rod oven so probably won't be using the 7018 especially as the purloins are painted and that might be so good with 7018. I started welding with 7014 on the farm 40 years ago and we used it for almost everything and I don't remember ever having any problems with welds not holding.
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