where is it smoking at the blade where the cut is being made? It sounds like a combination of too much down pressure and or the wrong tooth count (TPI count) for the job. Tell us about the blade you are using, bow the 2x3 material was oriented in the vise, and see if you can lighten up the down pressure a bit. I try to always cut square tube with a corner facing straight up, so the blade never tries to cut a very wide flat surface. The rule of thumb when you are cutting is you should have no more than 3 teeth in contact with the material at any one time. So for 1/8 inch thick stock you need a much higher tooth count blade. For 1 inch stock, you need a much lower tooth count. Square (and rectangular) tube may only have a 1/8th inch wall thickness, but if you try to cut across a flat side of the tube, it is really trying to cut a much wider area, which usually slows the cut down considerably.

 

smoking from the gearbox, the blade never smokes as I always have it lubricated as it cuts....I was cutting on the 2 inch profile not 3.

 

Post pictures of the inside of the gearbox if you can. Is there oil in the gear box?

 

 

The thing should be full of heavy gear oil.

 

+1, fill it with 120 weight gear oil and see if it happens again. There are two bearings, a bearing bushing, and an oil seal on the shaft going from that bronze gear to the drive wheel. I am pretty sure you access it from underneath. Hopefully the oil solves your problem, but if not you are going to have to pull that shaft and check the bearings.

 

FWIW, that saw looks almost identical to the Grizzly or HF 4x6 band saws. Go find an owners manual for the Grizzly 4x6 saw on line and the exploded parts list ought to be pretty close to the way your saw is built.

 

I have replaced those bearings and seals and gears a few times. How is your gear held in place? All mine had a large cotter pin holding the gear in place. The repair is straight forward, but will take few hours.. There should be no up/down play in the gear...it looks like your gear is at the top of the shaft?

The gear doesn't typically wear, unless you put grease in the gear box, but who would ever do that.

You will also need to seal the cover with a gasket or sealant. Looks like you had a gasket.

My first HB was a Dayton. It had a heavy gauge stamped base. It was dark green. It also had no blade guard underneath.

Good luck with your repair. They are pretty simple. I was always able to find bearings locally.

There is bearing under the gear and another above the wheel.

 

to go along with the advise provided above, get some brake parts cleaner and clean out the inside of that gear box BEFORE ya fill it, get all those flakes washed out so they do not work theire way into the seal once oil is added... ya will most likally have to make that gasket, insteada cork hit an auto parts store and get some rubber based gasket material

 

You all have been amazing. Ill do the new gasket and 120wt gear oil today.

 

If the blade is stopping then neither of those will help. Is their not a hole in the gear to receive a pin. Unless the motor is stopping, I suspect the whole shaft is spinning inside the gear. It begins when the teeth engage the single/vertical side on the tube?

My second HB sheared that shaft. It was second hand, Amrox brand saw. I have also replaced motor that was stopping during the cut. The new motor from TSC I put on my Jet was 2 times the size of the stock motor both rated the same HP. It ran better than ever with new motor.

Also, since it is a worm gear, there is not reason for the blade wheel to turn by hand twisting. Give that a try?

 

the shaft is not spinning in the gear...when the machine stops, the motor stops and over heats throwing the breaker....its a total seize up when it happens

 

The thought of a sheared key occurred to me to, but I just couldn't believe that tiny motor with a belt drive would do that.

 

Not sure why mine sheared, but the shaft sheared in half. Might have been. A metallurgical issue. The saw was old when I got it, it worked for a couple years no issues, though.

 

once ya have the gear box cleaned, gasketed and filled with oil as it shoulda been before using it, then reduce downward pressure as much as possible (on the 4x6 saws thats usually a spring/rod assembly on the left side ya turn the rod to shorten it by screwing a ring bolt in on the end to increase tension on the spring) and then do a test cut while you are standing by with your hand ready to lift the saw and reduce tension if it acts like its struggling, if ya have too course of a blade for the material your cutting it will usually chip off teeth, too much downward pressure will stop em easy especially with the original motors.... that being said I do have 3 of the old Tiawan harbor freight versions all with original motors that run fine cutting pretty much anything but I only use "Olson" or "Sterrette" brand blades, they run around $28-$32 off Amazon and I use a blade lube

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784VX14D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

which helps ALOT also extends the life of the blades quite a bit

 

got new cork gasket material, cleaned gearbox, got it lubed with 85-120 and did a test run

All good so far

Thank you to all who offered help and encouragement!!

 

how good is the contact on that bronze gear? asking because there is ALOT of flakes in that gear box and from the picture it looks like it might be worn pretty good, replacements can be had, you might want to look into getting one

 

I have found, having owned 4 saws more or less like that over the years, that its usually simple belt slippage. Or, often, the blade is missing teeth, and then it jams at the gap toothed part of the blade. The motors those things ship with are too small. I have put 3/4hp and even 1hp motors on mine, and they work much better. Of course, that costs money, because they are usually oddball motors- the standard hot rod mod for one of these things is a motor like this Griz- and its 200 bucks, new. More than most people pay for the saw. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Motor-1-HP-Single-Phase-1725-RPM-TEFC-110V-220V/H5379

the problem is that the saws take 1725rpm motors, and most scrap free motors I find are 3200 rpm.

But the two little bandsaws I am running now have gone something like 10 years with the new grizzly motors, and never stall anymore.

 

The bronze gear looked pretty sharp to me, I would say it needs replaced.