Hobart 210MVP Problem

[stanward]

Hello,
I purchased this Hobart 210MVP many years ago and it has been flawless and problem-free since 2013. I used it yesterday with no problems in welding 1/8" and 1/4" mild steel using 0.035 wire with argon/co2 shielding gas. I only use 230V and not the 115V.
However, today, on voltage setting 3 (trying to weld 1/8" mild steel), there is a lot of sputtering and the weld wire is pushing the metal and not causing the arc for a fraction of a second (sputtering). I tried voltage setting 4 and it works fine, but setting 3 and 2 does this.

Can anyone help me figure out what is wrong with my welder? Does Hobart sell spare parts (like switch, dials, transformer, etc.)?

Stan

[G-ManBart]

I haven't been inside that model before, but I would start by checking the outlet and plug to anything loose. Then I'd check the work clamp and wire back to the terminal in the machine for anything loose. Then I'd check that the bolt securing the whip to the feeder is tight and the positive lead to the feeder is tight. It wouldn't hurt to remove the whip and blast it with compressed air and make sure the diffuser and contact tips are in good shape. Lastly I'd remove the cover, hit the inside with compressed air and take a look at the back of the rotary tap selector.

[stanward]

I haven't been inside that model before, but I would start by checking the outlet and plug to anything loose. Then I'd check the work clamp and wire back to the terminal in the machine for anything loose. Then I'd check that the bolt securing the whip to the feeder is tight and the positive lead to the feeder is tight. It wouldn't hurt to remove the whip and blast it with compressed air and make sure the diffuser and contact tips are in good shape. Lastly I'd remove the cover, hit the inside with compressed air and take a look at the back of the rotary tap selector.

I took the whip apart and removed the liner and blasted both with compressed air. Since I had the whip removed, I replaced the two o-rings as well. I made sure the polarity connections (for the whip and the clamp) were clean and tight. I didn't try the welder out as I was tired last night. I will open up the cover and check the connections inside. Thank you for your suggestions.

[stanward]

Hi everyone,

I checked the rotary switch (voltage adjustment) and the switch has continuity on the proper terminals (and open-circuit on the others). I tested all 7 positions. The inside of the chassis is very clean (because I keep in indoors.

I tested the Hobart 210 MVP using the 115V plug and switched the settings to 4, 5, 6, 7. It has that odd sputtering problem on all of those 4 settings.

So basically my welder will only work on voltage settings 4, 5, 6, and 7 using only the 230V plug. I can't weld thin materials at all. I tried calling Hobart tech support but they were closed.

Anyone know of common problems with the 210 MVP?

[MinnesotaDave]

Are you remembering to set WFS and voltage as a pair of variables?

WFS is your amperage and controls penetration.

Voltage controls the bead height and width. Need enough to make it run right at the WFS that is set.

It's a balance, too little volts for the WFS causes the "problem" you describe.

[stanward]

Are you remembering to set WFS and voltage as a pair of variables?

WFS is your amperage and controls penetration.

Voltage controls the bead height and width. Need enough to make it run right at the WFS that is set.

It's a balance, too little volts for the WFS causes the "problem" you describe.

I have been using this welder since 2013. Now that I am forced to use setting 4-7, I am burning holes in sheet metal.

Also, I have been using the welder on Wednesday and had no problems on setting 3 with 1/8 steel. On Thursday, went to weld the exact same steel and can’t get it to weld right. I have my WFS set at 40 both times. I didn’t move the welder at all.


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[MinnesotaDave]

I have been using this welder since 2013. Now that I am forced to use setting 4-7, I am burning holes in sheet metal.

Also, I have been using the welder on Wednesday and had no problems on setting 3 with 1/8 steel. On Thursday, went to weld the exact same steel and can’t get it to weld right. I have my WFS set at 40 both times. I didn’t move the welder at all.


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Turn your WFS down...

WFS is your amps and controls penetration (depth of fusion).
Volts are not your only variable.
What setting does your door chart suggest?
It's often very close.

[stanward]

Turn your WFS down...

WFS is your amps and controls penetration (depth of fusion).
Volts are not your only variable.
What setting does your door chart suggest?
It's often very close.

Sorry, this still doesn’t answer the question why the welder would work fine on Wednesday and Thursday on it wouldn’t.

5/40 for 11ga.


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[stanward]

Crap! I figured it out. One of my kids must've rotated the ArgonCO2 gas flow. It was off the charts beyond 60cfm (my meter only reads up to 60cfm). Turned it back down to 20 and all is well.

[G-ManBart]

Crap! I figured it out. One of my kids must've rotated the ArgonCO2 gas flow. It was off the charts beyond 60cfm (my meter only reads up to 60cfm). Turned it back down to 20 and all is well.

Haha....now that's the kind of fix I like!

Having had similar things happen....starting a weld with the valve closed, or the flow valve moved way off what it should be, now I try to make it a point to check the flow rate before I even try to weld anything. It's a lot easier than grinding out porosity and cussing at myself when I'm trying to get something done

[stanward]

Haha....now that's the kind of fix I like!

Having had similar things happen....starting a weld with the valve closed, or the flow valve moved way off what it should be, now I try to make it a point to check the flow rate before I even try to weld anything. It's a lot easier than grinding out porosity and cussing at myself when I'm trying to get something done

Do they make a gas regulator that is lockable? The dial on mine is easy to spin.


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[G-ManBart]

Do they make a gas regulator that is lockable? The dial on mine is easy to spin.

That's a great question and a great idea, but I don't know if such a thing exists. I have flow meters with the small knob on all my machines now, but I've used regulators with the handle and can see them being even easier to bump. It would be nice if they had a friction ring or something you could turn to keep them from getting easily bumped.

[Rangerhgm]

I don't weld on a regular basis so I check my gas flow setting each time before I start....just a habit I started

Been frustrating I know, but glad it was an easy fix.