Project weld a nut to the Transmission pan to add a drain bolt.

[123weld]

The Bronco started running like crap almost sounds like a misfire or burned valve or something. I noticed it after driving it to ford for a new OEM Temp switch / sending unit. First the PSOM took a crap so I replaced the whole instrument cluster. Now that all the gauges are finally working as they should, the motor decides to start running like crap.

It it seems like every time I turn around it’s something else going wrong with this truck.

I still want to get a TracLoc out of a JY truck to put in this one but still need to rebuild / replace all the u joints in the driveline before I spend money /time on the rear axle carrier. Nickels and dimes one day and thing at a time.

Her is a quick less than 30 sec vid of how it’s running atm.

have u tried a wet/dry compression check, i usualy jump to worst case scenario first (so i can rule it out), and work backerds. glad 2 see ur being safe and observing covid, got the covid , uhh, by chance, did u ever play the french horn when in school

[N2 Welding]

I just like having clean hands is the reason for the HF gloves in the vid. Never learned to play any instrument. Well I did get a Yamaha electric keyboard for Christmas one year that I wish I still had. I never took any lessons so never really learned how to play it.

Getting to the plugs on this truck is a real pita being how tall it is and how the air conditioning is cramping the engine bay on the passenger side. I'll do a compression test if / when the new plug wires don't fix the problem and before I pull the distributor to replace the crank sensor / pick up coil.

[ronsii]

I just like having clean hands is the reason for the HF gloves in the vid. Never learned to play any instrument. Well I did get a Yamaha electric keyboard for Christmas one year that I wish I still had. I never took any lessons so never really learned how to play it.

Getting to the plugs on this truck is a real pita being how tall it is and how the air conditioning is cramping the engine bay on the passenger side. I'll do a compression test if / when the new plug wires don't fix the problem and before I pull the distributor to replace the crank sensor / pick up coil.

I wouldn't bother with a comptest... that kind of thing is highly unlikely... however we did use one on a caddy about 25 years ago that showed a valve spring had broke because the operator had ran it in 2nd gear from here to cali.... took it to the dealer before bringing it to us... they told her it was a flat cam $$$$.$$ we had it running after a few hours and a 8 dollar spring from the national in town Since you already know something is hokey with the ignition I'd keep on that trail

[ronsii]

My '77 Ford had the dual tanks too - manual selector behind the seat where I could just reach it when the fuel ran dry in tank 1.

Drove that truck all over the country when in the air force, it's been waiting for me to rebuild the truck since the 90's...

Took a pic this morning.. here's where my 77' XLT F150 has it's switch... we had a 75' that had the switch/lever under/behind the seat though. And yes I still have pretty much every vehicle I ever bought

[leightrepairs]

Took a pic this morning.. here's where my 77' XLT F150 has it's switch... we had a 75' that had the switch/lever under/behind the seat though. And yes I still have pretty much every vehicle I ever bought

Thought for sure there was going to be an 8 track player in the dash picture.

[ronsii]

Thought for sure there was going to be an 8 track player in the dash picture.

I'll get ya' a pic of something a bit older out here in a bit

[123weld]

I if / when the new plug wires don't fix the problem a

if u think u got a bad wire, u can pull them off one at a time while eng running. if u dont hear a significant stumble/miss, u may a removed the bad wire. just remove wire(s) from top of cap w/ something insulated. they make a chintsy inulated pliers for just that, or u insulate a pair real easy/quick like

[N2 Welding]

I know for a fact the # 5 cyl spark plug wire is dead. It was stretched out accross the valve cover just barely long enough to make the connection. When I pulled that wire off the plug the engine ran the same.

[N2 Welding]

Ok new wires solved the problem FTW


I can still detect a very very slight hiccup in the exhaust but it's not sucking it back in through the tail pipe any more like in the video. I also notice a slight hesitation when I rap the throttle from idle to WOT. I'm thinking I should inspect the TPS, EGR and ignition Timing.

[ronsii]

[FONT="]Ok new wires solved the problem FTW [/FONT]
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
I can still detect a very very slight hiccup in the exhaust but it's not sucking it back in through the tail pipe any more like in the video. I also notice a slight hesitation when I rap the throttle from idle to WOT. I'm thinking I should inspect the TPS, EGR and ignition Timing.

Wouldn't hurt to check all that stuff and any other sensors you can get specs for of have a test procedure of some sort... did you ever get a pressure reading off the shrader valve on the fuel manifold?

[N2 Welding]

No I did not get a fuel rail PSI reading yet. Thank you for the reminder. It's not running bad atm. It never hurts to know the fuel psi at the injectors though.

[ronsii]

No I did not get a fuel rail PSI reading yet. Thank you for the reminder. It's not running bad atm. It never hurts to know the fuel psi at the injectors though.

It's probably in spec.... but.... just one of those things where if it's just out or close to the limit it can make things run bad... especially if you have other engine problems it can make troubleshooting things a PITA

[CAVEMANN]

It's probably in spec.... but.... just one of those things where if it's just out or close to the limit it can make things run bad... especially if you have other engine problems it can make troubleshooting things a PITA

I had an 87 T-BIRD that drove me crazy, as it turned out the fuel pump safety shut-off in the trunk wasn't getting a good connection and had melted the terminal insulator block & plastic had run down the spades and prevented the connection, it was VERY intermittent, and was causing low rail pressure.