Another Wheel

[Josey]

Split the nut the old fashioned way. A sharp cold chisel and a block hammer. Has worked for me many times
sometimes the impact will free the nut without splitting it

[Tool Junkie]

I had an old farmer friend that told me once, "You aren't REALLY STUCK if you can still get the tractor doors open".
This was from personal experience. His wife had to come and dig the doors out to extricate him.

[whtbaron]

I've always said, "If you can see water, just stop the tractor and start walking. It will be easier to pull out that way."
Around here, if you keep going you WILL get stuck.

[farmersammm]

This has been on the back burner most of the Winter. Got something done today. Was a nice warm day.



Doesn't look like much, but it was pretty important. This was the final fitting of the hole in the wheel to match the new disc, and it's still not perfect. I think I have a slightly distorted wheel, and it's been a PITA to center, and maintain the disc in some sorta planar relationship with the old wheel dish.

I'm tired of it, and just want it done. Which is a bad thing. It makes you do crap work, and live with it............only to regret it sometime down the road. Tryin' to stay interested in it, and do it right.

Need it done because I have two feeders that have to have hinges rebuilt. 20yrs, and they finally messed up. I shoulda made them with looser tolerances. Got rust bound, and seized up..............which caused me to push them with the tractor..............which caused them to buckle K'kins was not happy, nor was I. Caused us some real problems during the last BIG FREEZE. Two feeders out of action.

Concrete mixer needs finishing too. Spring is right around the corner.

Probably the greatest highlight of this Winter K'kins forced me to buy flannel pajama pants Actually................she bought 'em

I'm getting old, and I can't stand climbing into a cold bed. The cold sheets almost give ya a heart attack. She bought these things, and I tried them.

Beats wearing your pants to bed, and she was getting tired of shaking mud out of the sheets when she had to change the sheets. (We're gettin' old, so we don't do the nekid sleepin' thing anymore................too damn cold) I drew the line at pants, but gave in when it came to boots. You have to give a little. I was pretty good at hangin' them over the side of the bed, and not gettin' them on the sheets, but she put her foot down.

And........................she really did buy me some fuzzy house shoes. Was her doin'. I LUV 'EM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can't believe I ever went without the things. That, and using a milkhouse heater in the bathroom before climbin' in the shower. She's totally changed my life in the past decade.

[lars66]

So why not use flannel sheets? Mine are nice and warm.

[CAVEMANN]

I love our flannel sheets! Even in Arizona, we usually use them year round or close too it.

[farmersammm]

K'kins gets alternately hot, then cold. So any warm sheets are out I guess. The PJ pants do the trick though. She can stay cool with the cotton sheets, and I stay warm with the PJ bottoms.

[bcguide]

You guys are slipping . I'm waiting for aa rod warmer joke.

[ronsii]

You guys are slipping . I'm waiting for aa rod warmer joke.

Give Sammmy time enough to get another 5-6 beers down and you'll hear plenty

[farmersammm]

The wheel is on the front burner again

I had one heck of a time centering the disc. The wheel is somehow out of round a bit, or the bead seating flange is weird. I tried splitting the diameter, and setting the fixture............but the disc was actually about 1/4" off. Anyways.....finally centered off the inside of the wheel closest to the welded dish.

This created a problem. I had originally roughed the hole in according to a measured center (which was wrong), and wound up with an egg shaped hole once I found out that the wheel is out of round To properly center the new disc, I had to move it a bit, and wound up grinding out the opposite side of the hole to fit

Daub, blob, and finooogie Anything to fill that 1/4" gap Ain't pretty, but it's sound.

It's the backside of the tack welds that matter..........they will form the base for the finish weld, and have to be solid with no porosity I got a good base, so I'm happy with it. Clean up the other side before it's welded, and y'all will never know the pain, anguish, and angst, I went through

These are a series of tack welds actually. 4 tacks to hold the disc so that the fixture can be removed, then a buncha tack welds to fill in around the outside diameter of the new disc. This is the only way to insure that you don't pull the wheel out of round (which it is already). All tacks were around 1/4" to 1/2" max, with the open areas wedged to hold the gap from closing as the tacks progressed. PITA.

[Brand X]

Personally,
I think the main thing your girlfriend saved was your liver..

[John T]

Samm must have a LOT of free time on his hands.

[farmersammm]

Came out fairly good I guess. Only had to backstep one weld. All welds were done in a mirror image on both sides of the wheel to equalize heat. Weld, flip, weld, flip, weld......................................

The heat input strategy worked out good. The hub fit perfectly. Although at first, I thought I had a problem. The hub bound up in the bore I had put the hub in the bore while the wheel was fresh hot from welding, and as the hub came up to the temperature of the hot wheel,, it lodged in the bore. When everything cooled off.............it was golden The heat imbalance made a difference with only .003 clearance inside the bore.

The backside was a different story

The welds on the front of the wheel were simple straight in bevel welds. Just fill the groove. This could be done without any problems inside the deep dish wheel.

The welds on the back of the wheel were fillets. But the rod angle wouldn't allow the arc to focus on the root, and allow it to be aimed upwards against the vertical wall. Consequently, the rod angle forced me to build the height of the weld to make it go up the vertical wall of the fillet. This involved a lot of manipulation to keep pushing the metal back into the puddle to increase height.

You can see the ripples from the rod manipulation. PITA. It's not whipping, it's more of a shove back into the puddle as you go.

I knew I'd have problems welding this thing, but I kept ignoring it till it was time to do the actual welding. A nice, flexible nozzle, flux core gun would have done a nicer job, and quite a bit easier too.

Luckily, the baler is the only piece of equipment I have that has deep dish wheels. If they had been deeper, it would involve bending the rod to a good angle...............which would only allow about 3" of rod to be burned per weld before having to clip it, and bend it again. 7018 does not like to be clipped......the doggone flux coating generally comes off, and leaves a mess.

[el bob]

Nice work Samm. Thank you for posting and sharing. The alignment/positioning fixture you made looks good too. You are making lots of quality parts and repairs with your lathe and mill.

[Woznme]

Yes, nice work. I bet you're glad it's done.
What's next or hasn't it happened yet?

[farmersammm]

Real nice of you guys to make some nice comments. I appreciate it. It's getting hard to put out any decent quality stuff these days. Ain't a big deal, I'm learning to live with it.

Took the wheel in to have the tire mounted today (it's beyond the capacity of my little changer), and the guy was a hoot.

We were talking while he messed with the tire. He knew when I had it dismounted, almost to the day. Deal was............he didn't charge me to dismount it. "I'll catch you when you get it remounted".

He was laughing at the new center disc. Thought it wouldn't be likely to wear out in both of our lifetimes

Put it all together maybe tomorrow, and check runout.

Next is finishing putting new seals in the loader cylinders. I replaced the seals on 3 of 4. Let the 4th one go because it hadn't started to leak yet. Now it's leaking like a sieve. So I guess it's time to finish out on the last one.

This oughta finish all the work on the hay equipment............so I'm looking forward to getting the stupid concrete mixer finished. Weather is gettin' on pouring weather, and we're gonna need it shortly.

I'm looking at some serious design issues on the driveshaft. I set it up to run in pillow block bearings, and now I'm not real sure that's gonna work. The pillow block bearings won't resist an axial load. Stupid stupid stupid stupid. I just never considered it. I don't want to scrap the setup in order to switch to tapered roller bearings. Have to figure out a way to eliminate shaft thrust issues with what I have now.

Might just tack weld the shaft to one of the bearing sleeves to keep it from moving, and call it a day. It's not like the mixer is gonna see a huge amount of service hours. Or make the shaft so it's threaded like a regular shaft, and preload it against the pillow block bearings. Hindsight sucks. I hate those concentric lock bearings.

[Tarmstrong]

Might just tack weld the shaft to one of the bearing sleeves to keep it from moving, and call it a day. It's not like the mixer is gonna see a huge amount of service hours. Or make the shaft so it's threaded like a regular shaft, and preload it against the pillow block bearings. Hindsight sucks. I hate those concentric lock bearings.

This is great news. You needed another fantastic project...so now you have one! Your post even has the beginning of a rebuild project outlined��

Keep the posts coming. Take your time, eventually that tractor(s) will have been rebuilt from top to bottom...

[el bob]

Samm, you will come up with a better idea, but here's a thought for making the most of the pillow block bearings. Assuming they have an inner collar/sleeve with a set screw, or two, for securing to the shaft, how about drilling and tapping the shaft so that the set screws actually work more like single shear pin type connections. This youtube video cued-up to 3:37 in, is not a direct match but shows using set screws in this way. (Spindle to primary flange bearing)

[farmersammm]

Samm, you will come up with a better idea, but here's a thought for making the most of the pillow block bearings. Assuming they have an inner collar/sleeve with a set screw, or two, for securing to the shaft, how about drilling and tapping the shaft so that the set screws actually work more like single shear pin type connections. This youtube video cued-up to 3:37 in, is not a direct match but shows using set screws in this way. (Spindle to primary flange bearing)

Ya know...........................

I got to thinking last night..........

The shaft housing is pretty simple.

Slides on the base plate in order to tension the chain on the sprocket.

I think I'll stay with the housing as is....................AND SMOOGIE THE SHAFT



IIRC, the PTO shaft has a socket that accepts a 1.25" shaft, which is held in place with a shear bolt.

So......the PTO end of the mixer driveshaft can be 1.25, then the part of the shaft that goes through the pillow block bearings can be turned down to 1.00, the protruding end can then be slotted to accept the sprocket, and threaded to accept a nut that will compress the the sprocket against the bearing. This will take any thrust up to the ability of the bearing to withstand thrust.

Pillow block bearings have notoriously sloppy bores....as much as .005 slop. I can turn the shaft to get rid of any slop (eliminating the need for the locking collar which centeralizes the shaft in the bore), or leave the slop to compensate for the possibility that the two blocks aren't perfectly aligned in the housing.

As long as you have any axial force on a shaft inside a bearing bore, it will generally keep the shaft from turning inside the bore, thereby ruining either the shaft or the bore. The thrust nut, and the tension on the sprocket, should be sufficient to take care of it I'm thinking. A guy could even do an interference fit on the shaft, and rely on the slop in the bolts that hold the bearings for alignment.

The possibilities are ENDLESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[farmersammm]

About as far as I got today Sort of a confluence of events B-DAy, St. Pat's Day, and end of project, beer nite last night I get a bonus beer nite once in a while. Kinda hard on an old guy.

Hell, I was doin' good to get it from the truck to the baler.

The brown stuff on the spindle is open gear spray grease. I use it when something critical has to sit outside for long periods, and don't want any rust. It's pretty good stuff...............real clingy once it sets up.

[Popeye an old miner]

Sam I have a flex head for a gun, Im not sure anymore which gun it will fit, I found it on a job I was on a few years ago and noone knew who it belong to, so they told me to kleep it. I know i dont have a gun it will fit but if you want it you can have it and maybe if you dont have a gun it will fit you can find one...its yours if you want it

That some nice work you do with the lathe and millin machine you got, I know nothin about that stuff, never had the money for that kind of stuff and someone was always around if I needed somethin like that done which wasnt very often. But I got to to be a pretty fair machinist with a 4 inch grinder and an end grinder and a whole lot of patience.

Keep doin what you do be safe and have fun

Popeye

[farmersammm]

Sam I have a flex head for a gun, Im not sure anymore which gun it will fit, I found it on a job I was on a few years ago and noone knew who it belong to, so they told me to kleep it. I know i dont have a gun it will fit but if you want it you can have it and maybe if you dont have a gun it will fit you can find one...its yours if you want it

That some nice work you do with the lathe and millin machine you got, I know nothin about that stuff, never had the money for that kind of stuff and someone was always around if I needed somethin like that done which wasnt very often. But I got to to be a pretty fair machinist with a 4 inch grinder and an end grinder and a whole lot of patience.

Keep doin what you do be safe and have fun

Popeye

I don't have anything to fit it. All I have is that Lincoln Magnum gun. I sure do appreciate it though

Besides, if I didn't have something to bch about......life wouldn't be the same

[drujinin]

7 pages of telling me how to do the wheels for my FORD AA project!
THANKS!
Though I won't use all you ideas and processes but will use the ones I do need!
Thanks Again for Posting as you went along!

[farmersammm]

7 pages of telling me how to do the wheels for my FORD AA project!
THANKS!
Though I won't use all you ideas and processes but will use the ones I do need!
Thanks Again for Posting as you went along!

Good deal!

[cwby]

7 pages of telling me how to do the wheels for my FORD AA project!
THANKS!
Though I won't use all you ideas and processes but will use the ones I do need!
Thanks Again for Posting as you went along!

Read this for more information!- https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/706635-Oh-Why-Not