Another Wheel

[farmersammm]

I guess it's time to bore y'all to tears again



The wheel is in better shape than the one that's on the loader, but it's still reached the end of its useful life. The hub is also damaged, and will need a rebuild.

This style wheel is available relatively reasonably priced https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Hole-Farm...4383.l4275.c10 The problem is the offset. I'll have to verify tomorrow, but I believe the standard implement wheel has less offset.

I'm pretty sure I can come up with a new hub, but I'm not sure. New Holland is pretty famous for "obsoleting" parts for balers, and other hay equipment.

Either way......it's a few hundred dollars to get all the parts together, If they're available. The NH 650 is circa sometime in the 1990's.

The idea of just slapping on a reinforcing ring, which is pretty widely available, is real tempting.........but the hub damage precludes it. There's no way around rebuilding the hub, and installing automotive style press-in studs.........which I can't find in the proper length to match a reinforcing ring.

[Woznme]

If you ever got a simple swap out repair you'd have nuthin to post about or use for your repair shop tools and machines. Then with all that spare time you'd have to do a yard tidy up and cut the grass. Better this way.

[Bls repair]

Come on Sam I know you can make something to fix this . Cut the center out ,make a ring with appropriate holes weld in in ring ,done . 10 minutes 15 tops

[Zimm]

Did you ever do the other loader wheel?

[farmersammm]

Did you ever do the other loader wheel?

No, not yet.......it's holding on for now. Might have to get to it this Winter. The rebuilt one is working out fine.

[farmersammm]

First thing is to measure offset, and other key dimensions. Offset, required plate thickness, and disc diameter requirement.

This is the tool I made for centering the new disc on the loader wheel rebuild. Having it already made has cut time on this project by hours already.

It serves as a known straightedge at this point.

Then I can rough out the center of the wheel. I'm just paring away the "high" points where the lug nuts go.



I clean it up a skosh more, not much.......just enough to get in the ballpark.



The template from the loader wheel rebuild lets me know I have enough meat left on the wheel.



This is going very fast due to the tooling. I was curious as to how much it would matter.

[farmersammm]

Now, I can rough out my new disc blank.

The blank is made from 3/4" plate so that I have shoulders to weld to when the finished disc is attached to the wheel.

I don't try to cut something like this in one go around. I do it in manageable arcs where my arm/hands are comfortable.

Tomorrow the plate will be remarked, and ground to those marks...........then off to the Uranus Global Master Machinist Center

[davec]

That is where having a turntable to spin that as you cut would be a huge benefit. Still far better than any torch cutting i could do

[Bls repair]

I knew you had something in mind

[farmersammm]

Re drew the circle for grinding to the right size. I never get the cut on the money the first time around. I just don't do round stuff for crap

I always cut outside the line, but sometimes I go too far outside, and it makes for extra grinding.



All dug in for the Winter I guess



Spent some time examining my navel, and deciding how I'm gonna work with the hub. It's not a true hub piloted wheel like the loader. The centering shoulder isn't really solid...........more of a raised ring. But, I'm thinking that it's probably capable of supporting quite an axle load.

This is the good hub, but it's the usual drill. The guy chowdered (I love that word) the threads on the bad one, and hammered some bolts into the holes to hold the wheel like a stud would. So.......have to bore out the bad holes for studs.

[farmersammm]

Had some time to work on the wheel insert today.

Blank needs 3 holes. Two for clamping it to the rotary table, and one center hole for indicating.

For less than dead nutz.....the wiggler makes a fine tool to line up on a punch mark.





The table is centered next..............

Sometimes I'll sweep the hole with a "Last Word", but generally a coax is just as accurate. Gotta remember that indicators are just comparators..............whether they're accurate as to thousands is irrelevant........what matters is that they're repeatable. I don't run the mill to use the coax......instead, I loosen the belts,, and hand spin the spindle....slower, and more accurate.

[farmersammm]

The annular cutter caught some serious chips as it worked.........leaving a rough bore.

Luckily, the beginning of the bore was good, and made a reliable place to indicate off of.

This is where I get my TRUE center. The inital hole was within whatever..........but everything else has to be accurate from here on. Everything is based on this center.



After drilling, the holes are chamfered to take the lug nut.

[farmersammm]

Somebody on the forum recommended a single blade cutter for chamfering sometime back. Again........THANKS! (forgot who it was )





The chamfers are carefully made in order to give full bearing to the lug nut. Not too far down, and not too far above the surface of the plate.

Ready for the lathe work...........



Quick check to ascertain just how much more of the wheel center needs to be ground out, and whether the blank has sufficient meat around the circumference to cut it down to size.

[farmshop]

Could your replacement disk be made to fit in the lathe to true up the od or is it not worth the hassle

[farmersammm]

Could your replacement disk be made to fit in the lathe to true up the od or is it not worth the hassle

I have a fixture I made for the lathe that's set up to hold this sort of thing. I made it when I did the front wheel on the loader.

[farmersammm]

I've looked at everything in the tool kit for a way to drop the thickness of the plate. It's driven me nuts for about a year.

Drop the thickness, and you're lookin' at welding an open root..........not welding to shoulders (fillet). AN OPEN ROOT ON SOMETHING LIKE THIS WILL BEND THE RIM LIKE A PRETZEL. I mean, not INCHES, but enough to mess it up. I just don't feel comfortable with it.

The rims are two pieces as they come from the factory. The 4 tabs are welded to the outer rim, and not subject to much dimensional change. You start filling gaps, and ya got mondo shrinkage.

It's bad enough that I have a gap due to fitup..............I hate to hang the whole thing on filling those gaps, and nothing else.

[Popeye an old miner]

Sam...if there is anyone that can figger out how to do stuff this its you...Ive seen some of what you do and it amazes me you got the patience to do that stuff

[Capt B]

I always enjoy your projects!

[Lis2323]

I always enjoy your projects!

Same here!


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[Old Doug]

Sam do you have any heat in your container? I have a trailer that i have some of my tools in lathe,a mill,shaper,drill press and other junk. It has plywood on the walls.I thought about putting in some kind of sealing so maybe i could heat it.

[whtbaron]

Sam do you have any heat in your container?

LOL.... I just wasn't sure where this was going... sounds sooo suggestive! Sorry.... I'll be quiet now... for awhile anyway...

[Lis2323]

LOL.... I just wasn't sure where this was going... sounds sooo suggestive! Sorry.... I'll be quiet now... for awhile anyway...

Sheesh. It's only mid November. Gonna be a looong winter......


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[N2 Welding]

Were all the holes wallowed out? I’m wondering if it would have just been easier to cut some flat plates into thick weldable washers and bolt them into place on the wheel using the lug nuts then weld into place, or is there too much weight on the wheels for that to work i.e. cracking etc?

Thinking of a way I’d try the repair with out all those fancy shop machines.

[12V71]

Were all the holes wallowed out? I’m wondering if it would have just been easier to cut some flat plates into thick weldable washers and bolt them into place on the wheel using the lug nuts then weld into place, or is there too much weight on the wheels for that to work i.e. cracking etc?

Thinking of a way I’d try the repair with out all those fancy shop machines.

Most of those six hole implement wheels are available aftermarket for $80 give or take. About the same for most hubs from the local bearing house.

[walker]

Man! Thats a **** ton of work for a wheel. I dont envy you those repairs. A small cnc plasma machine would make your life a fair bit easier. I have made low speed wheel centers with that and an ironworker and haven’t had any problems at all.