Remote plug pin connection should be listed in your owner's manual.
All you need is a box you can mount a toggle switch, a 1K pot and a 115 volt receptacle. Then you need a 8 conductor cord 14 gauge. this will give you 15 amps for the receptacle. wire box. then at the other end you splice a cord with 115 volt plug to three of the wires and a 5 conductor cord with the 14 pin plug on it.
Cover splices with a piece of heavy shrink tubing and fill with RTV. to seal the ends.
make sure you connect the ground wire to the box and receptacle.
The you plug into the 115 receptacle on the welder and the 14 pin feeder plug.
you will be able to turn output on and off, control current and have enough power for a work light and small grinder. 14 pin plug. A and B is contactor. C,D and E is your pot. E is the wiper. This will work on any miller welder with both 115 volt outlets and a 14 volt feeder receptacle. Have see remotes built this way.
If you don't like the shrink tubing ypu can use a 2x4 handy box and splice inside.
If you can't find 8 conductor cord. you can use three extension cords. two 18 gauge and 14 or 12. Then tape them together.

 

I already looked into all that, it's more than I'm looking to spend. I found cable but it was 2-3 dollars a foot. I really only want amp adjustment. We can ussually get power from the building we are working on 90% of the time.

The m.g. remote with single adapter is like $125 and I have enough extension cord already. I'm more curious as to the actual reliability and what not of them.

I'm not to worried about the stinger being hot since it always is anyway. Just get tired of walking back to truck to adjust. If we would have waited a few more months we would have gotten the new tb325 with wireless remote and all that fancyness

 

I just ordered one so we'll see I guess.

 

Finally got to use it today. I'm a fan. Having never used a remote for a welder other than my helper, it's nice to be able to make adjustments in the air vs going to the machine. It fell a few times today and didnt seem to effect it at all.

 

Can you show how you wired everything up. Been trying to make my own remote but all I’ve managed to do is control the voltage and not the amperage. I’m using a miller xmt 304 and the pins that I’m using are C,D,E. Not sure what I’m doing wrong and would really appreciate the help. Thank you

 

Can you show how you wired everything up. Been trying to make my own remote but all I’ve managed to do is control the voltage and not the amperage. I’m using a miller xmt 304 and the pins that I’m using are C,D,E. Not sure what I’m doing wrong and would really appreciate the help. Thank you

He hasn't posted here in the last 3 yrs so don't hold your breath...

Not only that about the OP, but most of us who understand the basics of welders and circuitry don't know the details of most machines we don't own. If AV4815 had posted the schematic of his, many here (I included) could probably look at it and tell him what was needed, but don't always have the time or inclination to search for and post it here ourselves. There are lots of existing threads about finding such information, if that help is needed.

 

He hasn't posted here in the last 3 yrs so don't hold your breath...