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Thread: Welding Table advice

  1. #1
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    Welding Table advice

    I have been on this site since 2007 (reebs) and see a decline in welding table threads. Its a new year so here I go.Name:  IMG_3310.jpg
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    I want to make a new welding table. The one I have is 3'x4' and 5/8 thick. It is a little small, I'm going to go 4x6. I hope that is not to big for my space, but I need more table.
    My idea is to have the frame/ring 48x72. Actually the I will extend the frame to 74" with the 48" piece at the 72" mark. I hate welding end to end. Does that make sense? I don't want an over hang be cause my current table is not flat from heat and hammering.
    1. I plan to use 2.5" square tube 3/16 wall. I can telescope 2x2 inside if needed.
    2. Legs will be at the 12" and 60" section of the ring.
    3. A Brace at the 37" mark connecting the 74".
    4. Weld on tailor jacks to level the table.
    5. Working Height 35" but able to raise and lower.
    6. Caster on the leg tubing connecting the legs.
    Should I put a brace connecting the legs across the long side? I don't want sagging.
    Top 5/8 or 3/4
    Did I miss anything? I may put this on the regular board for more eyes.

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  3. #2
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Get your plate before you build a frame. A lot of times those plates can be oversized or not perfectly square.

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  5. #3
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Reebz have you considered a fixture table ?

    It may be conducive to the types of projects you do. Especially for gym equipment.

    Check out this link rustyshackleford started.

    The guys at Texas Metalworks are pretty awesome.




    Our fixture table!
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


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  7. #4
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Right behind you... I thought the welding table thread needed waking up too, but life keeps derailing my progress.
    1. I picked up some of the lighter 2.5" square tubing with the same idea of making things telescope with the 2", and I'm already regretting it. I'm sure what you have would be more than strong enough, but the telescoping action with the lighter sizes gets really sloppy. I'm sticking with a smaller 3x4 table, so I want to use expandable extensions for the larger projects. I'm really bad at keeping the table clear so there's less clutter this way.
    4. Oh... I like that idea, but my idea is incorporating a toolbox in the build so I'm sticking to (no pun intended) threaded pads at the floor for levelling .
    5. I find that the wider the table, the lower it needs to go to reach across, but the older you get, the closer you want the work to your eyes (both for your eyes and your back). Being able to raise and lower should give you the best of both worlds.
    6. My plan is to put 2 HD castors at one end, and a notch for the floor jack on the other. With the weight of my table, it should be solid that way, and I don't like it moving around when I'm twisting on things. I don't want my top sagging either... I'm going 2" .... should put me somewhere north of 600 lbs when I'm done. My plans have been heavily influenced by the builds on the welding table thread as well as Terry's heavy table/anvil. Aside from the thick steel, another idea I've borrowed (I didn't steal it, I'd give it back...) is an upright receiver hole. I think his currently has an old drill press in it, but it could be used for a number of ideas including a crane to lift heavy projects up and down off the table. I will also be incorporating a slatted area (could be in the table or one of the add on extensions) for metal cutting. A couple of items I would like to be able to "pin" to the end receivers would be a chop saw and possibly a miter saw or table saw for wood... basically using the welding table for a large saw horse as well.
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  9. #5
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Vertical receivers








    Horizontal to vertical receiver adapters





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  11. #6
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Liss 2323.
    My current table is built with receivers sort of, plus it has the 2.5 3/16 wall frame for telescoping.
    My current table is drilled 5/8 every 4".
    Is a fixture table one with holes on a sides and top? I get different answers when I ask. LOL
    Thanks guys

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  13. #7
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Reebz View Post
    Liss 2323.
    My current table is built with receivers sort of, plus it has the 2.5 3/16 wall frame for telescoping.
    My current table is drilled 5/8 every 4".
    Is a fixture table one with holes on a sides and top? I get different answers when I ask. LOL
    Thanks guys
    IMO I would say a fixture table can be any configuration you can imagine. One with sides is handy for securing something long and vertically but it’s nice to have table “overhang” for quick clamping with Visegrip type clamps.


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  15. #8
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    WHTBaron
    What welding table thread are you referring to? I will do some searching.

    Liss2323
    A fixture table looks amazing, I don't have the coin. I like the idea of your receivers. I had one on my old table and will incorporate on my new one. I'm headed to the Texas Metal site for ideas

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  17. #9
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    WHT Baron. I found it all 28 pages. Not sure how I missed it

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  19. #10
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Liss2323
    I talked with the teaxs boys. I have to read the links, he advocates 1/4 top. I have always though "thick is it"

  20. #11
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    I'm totally on board with FLAT. Heavy is nice but unnecessary in my opinion.


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  21. #12
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Here's my first welding table I built out of 1/4 scrap plate. The only table I used for the first 35 years.




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  22. #13
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Thicker allows you to beat on it and heat things without warping the table.

  23. #14
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    Welding Table advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Welder Dave View Post
    Thicker allows you to beat on it and heat things without warping the table.
    Thinner tables such as the ones Texas Metal Works make are braced on the underside to achieve and maintain flatness without the weight.

    Here is a view of the underside




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  25. #15
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Reebz View Post
    WHT Baron. I found it all 28 pages. Not sure how I missed it
    Reebz, can you post the link ? I can’t find it
    Safety 3rd
    Gump

  26. #16
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Lis2323 View Post
    Thinner tables such as the ones Texas Metal Works make are braced on the underside to achieve and maintain flatness without the weight.

    Here is a view of the underside




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    How much weight do they actually save? A lot of tables are used for everything imaginable. I don't think you'd want to be tacking, pounding and heating pieces on an expensive lay out/fab. table.

  27. #17
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Gump View Post
    Reebz, can you post the link ? I can’t find it
    Look up.... it's in the Sticky Forum at the top of the page... currently #4 in topics.....as Reebz said, there's a few pages there. Unfortunately a lot of good ideas and pics were also lost in the site crashes... https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...picture-thread
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
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  29. #18
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Welder Dave View Post
    How much weight do they actually save? A lot of tables are used for everything imaginable. I don't think you'd want to be tacking, pounding and heating pieces on an expensive lay out/fab. table.
    That depends on whether you are comparing it to a 3/8 table, or a 2" table. Same old story...right tool for the job. That's why I'm thinking my main table will be relatively small with the ability to "link" onto it with different designs and tools and possibly other tables.
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
    230 amp Sears AC Stick
    Lincoln 180C MIG
    Victor Medalist 350 O/A
    Cut 50 Plasma
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  31. #19
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Welder Dave View Post
    How much weight do they actually save? A lot of tables are used for everything imaginable. I don't think you'd want to be tacking, pounding and heating pieces on an expensive lay out/fab. table.
    Good question. I wouldn't like to speculate.


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  32. #20
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Jason from Fireball Tool did a really good video on different fixturinv tables, including the tab and slot style. The holes deform and raise up with some clamps. He did show a clamp that spreads the clamping load out and doesn’t cause this distortion.

    I was about to order one of the Siegmond 16 tables on their special going on. These tables didn’t perform well in his tests.
    Miller Syncrowave 180SD

  33. #21
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    Welding Table advice

    Quote Originally Posted by whtbaron View Post
    That depends on whether you are comparing it to a 3/8 table, or a 2" table. Same old story...right tool for the job. That's why I'm thinking my main table will be relatively small with the ability to "link" onto it with different designs and tools and possibly other tables.
    Agreed. Also depends on your mood. I only use the heavy topped welding table when angry .


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  35. #22
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    With stolen ideas from this and Garage Journal forums...I built this about 5 years ago and it get used a lot.Name:  43F1163D-4626-47FB-9313-360AE6229F87.jpg
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    Good luck OP...

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  37. #23
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Great advice from all
    Tamstrong nice table

  38. #24
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    Check to make sure the trailer jacks don't have too much slop.
    If the jacks are similar to the one on my trailer you'll probably be able to push the table top back and forth an inch or two.
    May be OK for fixturing and welding. If you mount a vise, maybe not so good.

    ktech

  39. #25
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    Re: Welding Table advice

    I was thinking about that too... and as a dumb ole jig builder, I would just weld a nut onto the end of the tubing (I may have a few jig foot pads) and run a leveling foot into it. 1-8 threads are what we use at work, 4 where you put them would be sufficent. We also have one table at work that you tack steel to, and one that you can tack aluminum to, once the frame is tacked together it is welded out for the most part where it sits. Then removed and flipped to weld out. At home I just level on 3 points and keep everything plumb and level one tack at a time. No fancy table for big fabrication yet. Have a 24X24 plate that is drilled and tapped to 12-13 every 1.5 inches. The only reason I have it is because it was ground out of tolerence and it has 2 low spots that were .0003 out of flat.

    https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/40610032

    Something like this would (A) be true to your floor, (B) distribute weight, and (C) accept any lenght of all-thread needed to level, just throw on a lock nut and you should be set.
    I haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey.

    Mac

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