Holy heck was that humbling...
View attachment 1722413

Trying to strike the arc, feed the rod consistently. My coordination stinks lol. Above was the first effort (never tried stick before) at various amperages from 75 to 125.

Below is the second effort after a break and some video lessons.

View attachment 1722414

Man, those rods get HOT! Going to be a while me thinks to get the hang of it lol.

Hey its a start, and for your first time it dont look too bad, at least you can run somewhat of a bead, keep workin at it and dont be afraid to try different things with it, only way to learn

 

Turn your heat down. 6011 generally run about the same amps as the next bigger size of other rods. Turn the amps down until you can't physically push the rod into the plate and keep an arc. Then turn your heat up in small steps until you can. That will get you in the ballpark. A lot of weldors do this with 6010 to get an initial setting for doing root passes and tweak it from there.

 

at various amperages from 75 to 125.

Are you running DCEP or AC?

 

DCEP, that's what the general concensus seemed to be on the internet.

 

Don't get frustrated !
You need to be comfortable. The stinger, electrode holder, should have a series on grooves to hold rods. They'll be angles and a ninety degree to holder.
Position rod in holder and see which feels the most comfortable. Try positioning hands to drag rod comfortablly remembering you need to lower rod into puddle as it melts away.
Try resting arms on table for maximum stability. Keeping arms tight to body will help maintaining a solid position.
If you are comfortable with elbows out, that's fine, but that's tough position when learning.
Everyone has a preference on how they hold stinger. One hand on stinger and the other holding towards tip of stinger. Two hands will help stabilize. You can hold stinger with one hand and use other gloved hand to support rod.
Some will even grab stinger and rod with one hand at the tip. This will definitely get hot quick.
I would definitely use two hands in the most comfortable position and resting arms on table. If table doesn't seem right, try resting on a 2x4 . Anything that feels good.


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If your goal is small projects, 1/8" is already a fairly good sized rod, and in my humble opinion there's easier rods to start with if you aren't concerned about structural integrity. Try running some 7014 or 6013 in 3/32. I occasionally step up to 5/32 on a big repair or a big gap I can't close (shhhh... don't tell these guys I said that...) but most of my repair work is 1/8 or smaller. Some of that metal looks pretty rusty... clean it up on the grinder before you start or you'll never know if you're seeing your weld, or the result of rust contamination and poor conductivity. The good news is that you are already improving and you just started...

 

i find welding amp chart useful to save time especially if not welding every day
.
on 1/8" plate flat welding try 3/32 6011 at 70 amps
1/4" plate try 1/8 6011 at 115 amps
.
some machines amp knob not calibrated so you might have to adjust +/-20 amps depending on machine
.
my point is rather than waste time welding literally feet of weld to find the correct rod size and amps use a amp chart.
obviously if using too big a rod at way too high amps on thin metal you going to have problems. also part can heat up and
often useful to only weld a few inches and stop to let part cool off.

 

Vertical down using 6013? Whaaaa? :dizzy:

 

My son said this was the easiest/fastest weld ticket he ever did in his stick welding class. 6013 vertical down t-joint. 135 Amps AC.

 

New day, session 3 was dialing in the correct amperage - 72 seemed to be the sweet spot (but you tell me) :blush:

After a little break, moved on to session 4 - I really think I'm making progress - again, what say you?

So, how many pounds of rod do I have to go through to learn the secret to striking the initial arc?!? :blob2:

 

New day, session 3 was dialing in the correct amperage - 72 seemed to be the sweet spot (but you tell me) :blush:

72A looks good there. Remember it also depends on the thickness of the metal being welded.

So, how many pounds of rod do I have to go through to learn the secret to striking the initial arc?!? :blob2:

0 pounds. As soon as you throw away that Yeswelder MIG-205DS into the dumpster and get yourself a real stick welder, you'll wonder why you got it in the first place, and you'll instantly realize that learning how to stick weld does not involve having the machine fight you the whole way through.

 

You are gettin better, and like Oscar said a real welder will make life a lot easier, but its lookin better evry bead

 

What are you using for a machine ?


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Yeswelder MIG-205DS

https://yeswelder.com/products/mig-welder-mig205

It's a 110/220 multi process machine. I'm using it on a 110V/30amp circuit and for a cheapo hobbyist like me - it's been pretty darn good. I've yet to bump up against the duty cycle, previously I only used the mig function and and with .023 and .030 wire it's done all I could ever ask.

Not saying it isn't the source of my arc-striking grief, but would like to know how it is different than the blue and white multi-process machines. Mine is admittedly sparse with spec details lol!

 

Question: are you using that NoWelder on 120V input power?

 

Would have to have someone try both machines to see the differences.

 

I'll probably go try it - but would DCEN make a difference over the DCEP I've been doing?

 

6011 aren't recommended for DCEN. Not as much as 6010 but different brands of 6011 could make a difference. Huge improvement by lowering your heat. Try wetting the rods and then wiping them off to see if they strike and burn a little nicer. Striking an arc can sometimes be a problem for even the most experienced weldors. I can't say it's the machine having never used a Yes welder. I'm spoiled though, I have an SA200 red face. One of the best machines ever made for burning cellulose rods, actually most rods.

 

The only time actual amps matter is if you're doing a weld procedure that calls for a specific amp range to be used. Generally a 3rd party will come in with a clamp on meter to verify the amps used are in the required range. Everything else you set the amps by how you want the rod to burn. It doesn't matter what a dial or chart says. The way the rod burns and sounds is how you set your amps regardless of what the machine or a chart says it should be. The dial on the machine is just a reference point that may or may not get you in the range you need. It can be used for repeat settings but even then it's not guaranteed to be exactly the same. With some wire feed processes the volts and amps are more critical. Stick welding for the most part is set it how you like it by burning a practice bead(s).

 

Go backwards a little bit at the end to fill the crater. Craters are great place for cracks to start. Now you start trying to do a slight back and forth whipping motion with 6011. Go ahead 3/16" and then then back 3/32". Basically dig a bit of a groove and then back up to fill it. This is where the stack of dimes terminology comes from.

This is 6010 but 6011 should look similar. With practice you can make even nicer than the example below.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Welding/comments/ayix7n/3rd_week_of_6010_flat_im_getting_better_tips/

 

At that inexpensive level of imports your hands are tied, which explains your welds.
Kidding [emoji23]
Do you have 220volt power ?? I suggest getting a dedicated stick machine. The Lincoln tombstone and Miller thunderbolt are bullet proof.
Both in AC only are usually available used for $100.00 to $150.00.
I would buy an AC/DC one. Typical those are $250.00 to $300.00 or more depending on your location.
6010 is a DC rod which has a smoother arc. Definitely will be easier to learn with. There is a 6010 5P PLUS, which is DC. A better choice to learn with.
Remember, the numbers on machine are only a starting point. 80 on your machine may burn the same at 70 on another.
Check with local suppliers to see if they have a machine to try. If suppliers don't ask about a machine repair service.


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Found a box of Forney 6013 x 3/32", so while I'm laid up with the *********** flu I went out to practice a bit with it. (I heard the fumes are healing).

Just some scrap laying around, too lazy to cut up coupons. The spike was at 110amps, the tubing was 40amps, and other stuff in the 60-70 range.

Tried going down as low as 25 amps but couldn't get a light, 35 was about the lowest.

Kind of pleased with the tube welds. I burned a lot of holes in other pieces getting the settings right but all I need is one or two decent looking welds to call it a day.

 

Found a box of Forney 6013 x 3/32", so while I'm laid up with the *********** flu I went out to practice a bit with it. (I heard the fumes are healing).

View attachment 1722699
Just some scrap laying around, too lazy to cut up coupons. The spike was at 110amps, the tubing was 40amps, and other stuff in the 60-70 range.

Tried going down as low as 25 amps but couldn't get a light, 35 was about the lowest.

View attachment 1722700

Kind of pleased with the tube welds. I burned a lot of holes in other pieces getting the settings right but all I need is one or two decent looking welds to call it a day.

You are gettin better at it, some of the welds i see on the tubing look pretty nice no undercut no prosity and looks nice and smooth like you were in a comfy position, which is very important, keep practicing you are on your way

 

I don't know if I'd call a downhill 6013 weld a ticket. Perhaps a test in a welding course but the question is why? It's not a weld that would be considered for anything you wanted to stay together. Shame on the instructor.

 

Isnt there a fella here from England does pipe downhill with 6013? Its the weld code over there? He makes it look real pretty too. I might be thinkin of somethin else though.

 

That's the guy from N Ireland. I think he was friends with CEP. Also as mentioned before the 6013 in Europe is different than the 6013 in N. America.

 

Ahhh ok, thats what i was thinkin of but its either uphill or rolled, not sure what made me think it was downhill. In any case his work sure is top shelf

 

Probably not much stronger than crazy glue.

 

Welded lots of vertical down with it years ago. Not much different from mig, you have to use the arc to keep it from sagging down.

 

Do you have a link for that chart? I want to laminate it and throw it in my welding box.

 

Holy heck was that humbling...
View attachment 1722413

Trying to strike the arc, feed the rod consistently. My coordination stinks lol. Above was the first effort (never tried stick before) at various amperages from 75 to 125.

Below is the second effort after a break and some video lessons.

View attachment 1722414

Man, those rods get HOT! Going to be a while me thinks to get the hang of it lol.

You should get a big wire brush, or get a wire brush for a right angle grinder and clean up before each rod. The wire brushes for the right angle grinders are expensive and they get eaten up pretty quickly but they are fast and efficient. You should chip, then wire brush before each rod.

Sincerely,

William McCormick

 

Become one with the puddle, grasshopper.

 

Thats about the best advice one can get, learn to read the puddle and it will tell you what you need to do to make it right

 

Your improving with your stick welding. That welder is likely making life more difficult for learning. I purchased a 170 amp 110/230 stick welder from princess auto (Canadian harbor freight type store) and it's a re-named Razorweld 170, which I believe is sold in the states . Small little toaster sized inverter but it welds quite nice and burns 7018 awesome. something for you too look into for a future upgrade.

Not sure if your welder would run 7018, but they are a great rod to learn to use, and the 7018 ac versions restrike very nice on Dc.