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Thread: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

  1. #1
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    First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Holy heck was that humbling...
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    Trying to strike the arc, feed the rod consistently. My coordination stinks lol. Above was the first effort (never tried stick before) at various amperages from 75 to 125.

    Below is the second effort after a break and some video lessons.

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    Man, those rods get HOT! Going to be a while me thinks to get the hang of it lol.
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Shootr View Post
    Holy heck was that humbling...
    Name:  20210109_113451-01.jpg
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    Trying to strike the arc, feed the rod consistently. My coordination stinks lol. Above was the first effort (never tried stick before) at various amperages from 75 to 125.

    Below is the second effort after a break and some video lessons.

    Name:  20210109_121520-01.jpg
Views: 815
Size:  199.1 KB

    Man, those rods get HOT! Going to be a while me thinks to get the hang of it lol.
    Hey its a start, and for your first time it dont look too bad, at least you can run somewhat of a bead, keep workin at it and dont be afraid to try different things with it, only way to learn

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  4. #3
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Turn your heat down. 6011 generally run about the same amps as the next bigger size of other rods. Turn the amps down until you can't physically push the rod into the plate and keep an arc. Then turn your heat up in small steps until you can. That will get you in the ballpark. A lot of weldors do this with 6010 to get an initial setting for doing root passes and tweak it from there.

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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Shootr View Post
    at various amperages from 75 to 125.
    Are you running DCEP or AC?
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Don't get frustrated !
    You need to be comfortable. The stinger, electrode holder, should have a series on grooves to hold rods. They'll be angles and a ninety degree to holder.
    Position rod in holder and see which feels the most comfortable. Try positioning hands to drag rod comfortablly remembering you need to lower rod into puddle as it melts away.
    Try resting arms on table for maximum stability. Keeping arms tight to body will help maintaining a solid position.
    If you are comfortable with elbows out, that's fine, but that's tough position when learning.
    Everyone has a preference on how they hold stinger. One hand on stinger and the other holding towards tip of stinger. Two hands will help stabilize. You can hold stinger with one hand and use other gloved hand to support rod.
    Some will even grab stinger and rod with one hand at the tip. This will definitely get hot quick.
    I would definitely use two hands in the most comfortable position and resting arms on table. If table doesn't seem right, try resting on a 2x4 . Anything that feels good.


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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    If your goal is small projects, 1/8" is already a fairly good sized rod, and in my humble opinion there's easier rods to start with if you aren't concerned about structural integrity. Try running some 7014 or 6013 in 3/32. I occasionally step up to 5/32 on a big repair or a big gap I can't close (shhhh... don't tell these guys I said that...) but most of my repair work is 1/8 or smaller. Some of that metal looks pretty rusty... clean it up on the grinder before you start or you'll never know if you're seeing your weld, or the result of rust contamination and poor conductivity. The good news is that you are already improving and you just started...
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
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    Les

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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
    Are you running DCEP or AC?
    DCEP, that's what the general concensus seemed to be on the internet.
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Shootr View Post
    DCEP, that's what the general concensus seemed to be on the internet.
    50-90A should be plenty, depending on the thickness of the material to be welded. AC usually needs a bit more, but that is not the case here. I agree that you were likely running a bit too hot.
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Shootr View Post
    DCEP, that's what the general concensus seemed to be on the internet.
    6011 can be ran AC or DC.

    6010 runs on DC


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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    i find welding amp chart useful to save time especially if not welding every day
    .
    on 1/8" plate flat welding try 3/32 6011 at 70 amps
    1/4" plate try 1/8 6011 at 115 amps
    .
    some machines amp knob not calibrated so you might have to adjust +/-20 amps depending on machine
    .
    my point is rather than waste time welding literally feet of weld to find the correct rod size and amps use a amp chart.
    obviously if using too big a rod at way too high amps on thin metal you going to have problems. also part can heat up and
    often useful to only weld a few inches and stop to let part cool off.
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    Last edited by WNY_TomB; 01-10-2021 at 07:46 AM.

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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Vertical down using 6013? Whaaaa?
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    New day, session 3 was dialing in the correct amperage - 72 seemed to be the sweet spot (but you tell me)

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    After a little break, moved on to session 4 - I really think I'm making progress - again, what say you?
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    So, how many pounds of rod do I have to go through to learn the secret to striking the initial arc?!?
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Shootr View Post
    New day, session 3 was dialing in the correct amperage - 72 seemed to be the sweet spot (but you tell me)
    72A looks good there. Remember it also depends on the thickness of the metal being welded.


    Quote Originally Posted by Shootr View Post
    So, how many pounds of rod do I have to go through to learn the secret to striking the initial arc?!?
    0 pounds. As soon as you throw away that Yeswelder MIG-205DS into the dumpster and get yourself a real stick welder, you'll wonder why you got it in the first place, and you'll instantly realize that learning how to stick weld does not involve having the machine fight you the whole way through.
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    You are gettin better, and like Oscar said a real welder will make life a lot easier, but its lookin better evry bead

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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    What are you using for a machine ?


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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Question: are you using that NoWelder on 120V input power?
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    What are you using for a machine ?


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    Yeswelder MIG-205DS

    https://yeswelder.com/products/mig-welder-mig205

    It's a 110/220 multi process machine. I'm using it on a 110V/30amp circuit and for a cheapo hobbyist like me - it's been pretty darn good. I've yet to bump up against the duty cycle, previously I only used the mig function and and with .023 and .030 wire it's done all I could ever ask.

    Not saying it isn't the source of my arc-striking grief, but would like to know how it is different than the blue and white multi-process machines. Mine is admittedly sparse with spec details lol!
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Would have to have someone try both machines to see the differences.

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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Welder Dave View Post
    Would have to have someone try both machines to see the differences.
    I'll probably go try it - but would DCEN make a difference over the DCEP I've been doing?
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Shootr View Post
    I'll probably go try it - but would DCEN make a difference over the DCEP I've been doing?
    No. What brand of 6011 are you using? That can make a big difference.

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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    6011 aren't recommended for DCEN. Not as much as 6010 but different brands of 6011 could make a difference. Huge improvement by lowering your heat. Try wetting the rods and then wiping them off to see if they strike and burn a little nicer. Striking an arc can sometimes be a problem for even the most experienced weldors. I can't say it's the machine having never used a Yes welder. I'm spoiled though, I have an SA200 red face. One of the best machines ever made for burning cellulose rods, actually most rods.
    Last edited by Welder Dave; 01-10-2021 at 06:08 PM.

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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by Shootr View Post
    Yeswelder MIG-205DS

    https://yeswelder.com/products/mig-welder-mig205

    It's a 110/220 multi process machine. I'm using it on a 110V/30amp circuit and for a cheapo hobbyist like me - it's been pretty darn good. I've yet to bump up against the duty cycle, previously I only used the mig function and and with .023 and .030 wire it's done all I could ever ask.

    Not saying it isn't the source of my arc-striking grief, but would like to know how it is different than the blue and white multi-process machines. Mine is admittedly sparse with spec details lol!
    Switch it over to a 240V circuit. I guarantee you, you will have a much easier time striking the initial arc and you will notice better different performance.

    Also, just FYI, your "125A" that you tried was likely no where near close to that much. If you put an ammeter on either the stinger or ground cable to actually measure it, I would bet money "125A" would show roughly 80A. This is what I speculate from having bought and tested very low-end, albeit functional, Chinese inverter sticker welders. On the 120V input mode, they (I'm speculating many) are actually limited to about 95A, regardless of what the display says. Not that it makes much difference because you need to be evaluating the puddle, but I just need to mention that so that you don't have another aspect of welding fighting against you while you try to learn. When we (that have decent machines) say for example, "100A", we assume your machine can actually put out that amperage at the setting indicating as such. Unfortunately we have to use amperage numbers because we can't magically bestow what we can see/know onto you telepathically, but it's our only option. But when your machine doesn't show you the truth (by lying to you via the incorrect display), then you start to wonder what is going on, and there starts your unbeknownst 12-round boxing match against the machine, trying to beat it when it was supposed to be on your side in the first place. It's one of those things where if you don't know what XXX Amps is supposed to look like, then you don't know enough to know what you don't know, and you assume everything is peachy. Sorry, there's my rant for the day. You'll figure it out, it's just going to take you longer than you anticipate.
    Last edited by Oscar; 01-10-2021 at 06:29 PM.
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    The only time actual amps matter is if you're doing a weld procedure that calls for a specific amp range to be used. Generally a 3rd party will come in with a clamp on meter to verify the amps used are in the required range. Everything else you set the amps by how you want the rod to burn. It doesn't matter what a dial or chart says. The way the rod burns and sounds is how you set your amps regardless of what the machine or a chart says it should be. The dial on the machine is just a reference point that may or may not get you in the range you need. It can be used for repeat settings but even then it's not guaranteed to be exactly the same. With some wire feed processes the volts and amps are more critical. Stick welding for the most part is set it how you like it by burning a practice bead(s).

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  38. #24
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Quote Originally Posted by 12V71 View Post
    No. What brand of 6011 are you using? That can make a big difference.
    I'm using Lincoln rods.
    Quote Originally Posted by Welder Dave View Post
    6011 aren't recommended for DCEN. Not as much as 6010 but different brands of 6011 could make a difference. Huge improvement by lowering your heat. Try wetting the rods and then wiping them off to see if they strike and burn a little nicer. Striking an arc can sometimes be a problem for even the most experienced weldors. I can't say it's the machine having never used a Yes welder. I'm spoiled though, I have an SA200 red face. One of the best machines ever made for burning cellulose rods, actually most rods.
    Quote Originally Posted by Welder Dave View Post
    The only time actual amps matter is if you're doing a weld procedure that calls for a specific amp range to be used. Generally a 3rd party will come in with a clamp on meter to verify the amps used are in the required range. Everything else you set the amps by how you want the rod to burn. It doesn't matter what a dial or chart says. The way the rod burns and sounds is how you set your amps regardless of what the machine or a chart says it should be. The dial on the machine is just a reference point that may or may not get you in the range you need. It can be used for repeat settings but even then it's not guaranteed to be exactly the same. With some wire feed processes the volts and amps are more critical. Stick welding for the most part is set it how you like it by burning a practice bead(s).
    Well, the answer for me anyways (how many pounds to get striking an arc reliably) is 3.5 lol:
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    I figured one more session before it gets dark - since it's a hobby - it's incredibly enjoyable to practice.

    Tried DCEN for giggles, went up to 90 amps to get similar results as before. At this moment, I finally found the right "touch" to start the arc, and stop and relight at will. For me anyways, if I get the "scratch" right, and then lift the rod almost 1/2", the arc really takes off nicely and I can drop back down to the puddle and away I go.

    Switched back to DCEP, and ran the above beads at 72amps with nary an issue. For 2 days practice, I'm pretty stoked at the progress!

    Thanks (almost) everyone for the info and help. Really appreciate your expertise and willingness to share.
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    Re: First Try at Stick - 1/8" 6011

    Go backwards a little bit at the end to fill the crater. Craters are great place for cracks to start. Now you start trying to do a slight back and forth whipping motion with 6011. Go ahead 3/16" and then then back 3/32". Basically dig a bit of a groove and then back up to fill it. This is where the stack of dimes terminology comes from.

    This is 6010 but 6011 should look similar. With practice you can make even nicer than the example below.

    https://www.reddit.com/r/Welding/com...g_better_tips/
    Last edited by Welder Dave; 01-10-2021 at 07:22 PM.

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