Thats intresting I never knew that or evenn heard of it
I know what you mean . The only thing I can say is that the grid heaters have a temp sensor in the intake manifold that reads the intake air temp and it being so cold out that the grid heaters were being told that the intake air was too cold so they would kick on.
I know what you mean . The only thing I can say is that the grid heaters have a temp sensor in the intake manifold that reads the intake air temp and it being so cold out that the grid heaters were being told that the intake air was too cold so they would kick on.
So how did it start and how did it run when the heaters kicked on?
25 below is a bit chilly, Ive worked outside in those temps and when it was windy, it wasnt easy at all. Little guy didnt wanna get outta the nest when I had to piss, cant say I blame the guy either, then when I got to do the deed I made a pisscicle and froze myself fast to the side of Brown Mountain back behind Kaska PA...Feb somethin 1994.
Not sure if you got it sorted or not but besides the better relay as others said you should make sure your wiring has good clean connections at the controller, especially the ground.
I have a 1990 7.3 IDI. I made my own *bullet proof* harness for under $20-$30 in materials.
I used really good materials, wire, connectors, shrink tube, etc. I think I did a write up on it with pictures in one of the diesel forums but that was some time ago.
Everything was crimped, soldered and sealed from any oxidization so it would last.
If you have the bullet glowplugs (ZF's) you can use #10 butt connectors for the plugs, they fit great and will never melt or become brittle.
It's basically a single wire harness/connection that goes from the controller to each of the glow plugs.
There's no firing order or anything like that, just use a heavier gauge wire to compensate for the amp draw and you'll be fine.
I have pics and wiring diagrams for everything related to the 1990 7.3 IDI ... Here's the controller wiring, it's pretty simple.
Not sure if you got it sorted or not but besides the better relay as others said you should make sure your wiring has good clean connections at the controller, especially the ground.
I have a 1990 7.3 IDI. I made my own *bullet proof* harness for under $20-$30 in materials.
I used really good materials, wire, connectors, shrink tube, etc. I think I did a write up on it with pictures in one of the diesel forums but that was some time ago.
Everything was crimped, soldered and sealed from any oxidization so it would last.
If you have the bullet glowplugs (ZF's) you can use #10 butt connectors for the plugs, they fit great and will never melt or become brittle.
It's basically a single wire harness/connection that goes from the controller to each of the glow plugs.
There's no firing order or anything like that, just use a heavier gauge wire to compensate for the amp draw and you'll be fine.
I have pics and wiring diagrams for everything related to the 1990 7.3 IDI ... Here's the controller wiring, it's pretty simple.
Nothing got sorted out, it just started workin again on its own, for now i been keepin the rig plugged in and it works. Occasionally I dont lplug her in and it still works. So when the weather gets a bit more to my liking i want to either make or find a complete harness, not just the one for the glow plugs, but the one that is attached to it as well. Im not really good with electrical malfunction diagnosing buit I think I have enough ability to start all over from nothing
I'd have to look thru my "stuff". I think that I have a factory manual for the 7.3. It can be yours if you like. The wiring would be the same for all years. The difference might be in the glow plug controller. I'm pretty much done with the out of home wrenching.
I'd have to look thru my "stuff". I think that I have a factory manual for the 7.3. It can be yours if you like. The wiring would be the same for all years. The difference might be in the glow plug controller. I'm pretty much done with the out of home wrenching.
I'm a long time oil burners forum member. I've got a low mileage '94 factory turbo 7.3 idit 4x4 F250. I'm friends with Wes who is the owner of the shop in the link I posted. I've spent a week at his shop working with him on my truck. He's a great guy and a powerhouse of knowledge on the old Ford trucks. If you talk or order from him, tell him that Rich/Saburai said hello!
Here's the glowplug harness that he builds: https://classicdieseldesigns.com/pro...cement-harness
The OEM relay is weak, there's a White/Rogers (Stancor) relay that fits in there, it's nearly twice the size of the OEM and a tight fit. I put one in in 2009 and it's still working, in fact I have never heard of the Stancor failing.
Will the Stancor work if you only use 1 of the activator terminals?
I need to replace a Relay .... But it has 2 large terminals and only 1 small term.
I'd love to use the Stancor if it works.....
Last edited by John T; 03-19-2021 at 07:35 PM.
Reason: 3.69 x 3.3 x 2.9 in
Miller 211
Hypertherm PM 45
1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
HTP 221
Pretty sure the Stancor is not internally grounded like yours, just needs a ground jumper wire on one small terminal.
Yep, the Stancor shown has a grounding terminal, the Powerstroke uses a ground signal to close it.
Miller Challenger 172
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Yep, the Stancor shown has a grounding terminal, the Powerstroke uses a ground signal to close it.
You see quite a bit of that in the newer big trucks to control various relays and Kenworth still uses grounding switches in the dashboard. That can drive some people nuts trying to troubleshoot problems if they're unfamiliar with that system.
Some old British cars were positive ground. Was the Mack truck a Perkins diesel? I'm part time dyslexic so my mind is eternally messed with.
Used to be that most of the US made cars pre 1955 with 6 volt systems were positive ground. My old '55 Ford pickup was positive ground 6v, but my brother's '56 was 12v negative ground.
I had a mid '50s Mack with a crane that was positive ground and still run into a few late '70s Freightliner farm trucks with positive ground. Those wont run most LED tail/turn lights, and alternators are a challenge to get.
Been so long I dont recall
It was probably a late 60’s U model.
IIRC, the "U" model had the cab squashed all the way over to the left side with a really LOOONG mirror bracket on the RH side. A farm up this way had a bunch of them powered with 6 cylinder Scania engines.
IIRC, the "U" model had the cab squashed all the way over to the left side with a really LOOONG mirror bracket on the RH side. A farm up this way had a bunch of them powered with 6 cylinder Scania engines.
Yep thats the one.
had the maxi brake button on the back wall ...
after they took it off the road they took off the 5th wheel and chained a mafia block on the back to plow the parking lots..... couldn't kill it.
Miller 211
Hypertherm PM 45
1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
HTP 221
Used to be that most of the US made cars pre 1955 with 6 volt systems were positive ground. My old '55 Ford pickup was positive ground 6v, but my brother's '56 was 12v negative ground.
I had a mid '50s Mack with a crane that was positive ground and still run into a few late '70s Freightliner farm trucks with positive ground. Those wont run most LED tail/turn lights, and alternators are a challenge to get.
Wow. I had no idea! Any old cars I worked on must have been converted to 12 volt negative ground by the time I started twisting wrenches. A few third reich road oilers (VW's) had six volt systems, but they may have been positive ground too?
Most fishing boats are 24 volt negative ground (in my tiny world). Used to be quite a few 32 volt systems too.
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Originally Posted by Popeye an old miner
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