hydraulic cartridge question

[idacal]

I have this cartridge in an old cylinder and Im trying to figure out if its a counterbalance or a what it is. I need to replace 4 of them
its only 2 port and the sun counterbalance cartridges are 3 port am I missing something?
am trying to find what model it is but my google skills are not working.

[leightrepairs]

The valve in your picture is 3 ports, the nose would be one port the 2nd port would be between the first 2 orings and the third between the center o ring and the oring by the wrench flats. I doubt Sun will be a direct replacement as Sun uses there own cavity dimensions. Is the manifold these cartridges are mounted in built into the cylinder? If so could be difficult to find replacements. What are these mounted on?

[idacal]

they are built in to the cylinders, had a post all typed up saying i didn't think so, but went and checked the block again yep there is a 3rd hole what is the flat headed screw driver one for? its got a tapered needle that blocks off one of the bottom ports

I have bought cavity reamers and drills to make new with sun cartridges but haven't used them yet because Im not sure what all passages are needed

[12V71]

Cross port lock valves? In one block connecting both lines to the cylinder?

[idacal]

not sure what I got posted, I must have posted when I went to double check myself but I have more pictures up above

[leightrepairs]

You stated four valves, how many cylinders and what is the function of the cylinders? Is the screw bottomed out in the block, if you loosen the jam nut without turning the screw can you then turn the screw in or is it already screwed in and bottomed out in the hole?

[idacal]

2 per cylinder it felt like it was bottomed out but i couldnt tell for sure. To many crunchys before i got it loosened up. they are outrigger jacks on a drill rig same valves also on the mast cylinders

[idacal]

It looks like its ported to the number 3 on the other valve didnt know if its a restrictor orfice or a manual override incase of no power

[leightrepairs]

Not sure how you are referencing 1, 2 and 3. If you can take compressed air and map out the porting in the block to the cylinder and or ports on the cylinder we can then determine the function of the different passages on the cartridge you have. The needle valve could be used for an emergency release or it could be used as a flow control to limit the speed of the function it is ported to. Also would you happen to have a schematic from the piece of equipment that these cylinders came off of? Based on the application, outrigger cylinders they could either be counterbalance valves or pilot operated check valves, the latter is more common for outriggers.= from my experience.

[idacal]

I was numbering them the way you did in your post nose 1 middle 2 top 3 and the needle goes from nose on the extend side to 3 on the retract port.
On the retract side the nose Port goes to Port 3 on extend side no needle

[leightrepairs]

So that would be the pilot line, the needle valve would be used to cushion the opening and closing of the valve allowing the oil out of the cylinder. If forced to guess i would guess that these are pilot operated check valves not counterbalance valves. Reason being that a PO check is a load holding valve and a counterbalance valve is a load control valve. On an outrigger cylinder the main concern is to hold the load not control it. Are your plans to rework the cavity to accept a Sun valve? If so you would want to make sure that port 1 goes to the cylinder and port 2 comes from the directional control valve.

[idacal]

If I can’t find replacement cartridges will build completely new end caps don’t want to try to rework sounds like begging for a problem. I will disassemble the cartidges and post up some picture later on today. I have a pilot operated check on a different set of cylinders and it’s shudders something horrible so I want to be sure before I start machining.

[leightrepairs]

The shuddering, if it coming from the PO check could be due to an improper pilot ratio. Good thing if you port it for a Sun cartridge There are many options and the cavity for a po check and counterbalance valve can be the same so if needed it is relatively easy, worst part is the additional cost, too change if what you start with doesn't give the performance that you want.

[idacal]

I attempted my first counterbalance valve block. I know I can purchase one like this for less than I can build it. but I want to figure how to do it. This one is scrap because I didn't give myself enough room to put in inlet and outlet port by the time I run the 5/8 port reamer in I just don't have enough room but that's okay.
also my radial drill isn't ridged enough to run a tr2 port reamer, it chatters as Im making the final seat. so I ended up taking them too deep that wiped out my depth for the inlet port next time I will do the porting and threading in the lathe. but I think it will work, if not, either way I will have a way better understanding of a counterbalance valve. was going to plug the exterior pilot porting holes before I put it into use.
it is a block of 2x4x6 steel that I started with if I used aluminum probably wouldn't of had any issues

[farmersammm]

I'm starting to look at aluminum real hard for some future projects. I'm tired of fighting steel with small machines. I'm thinking that aluminum would be just fine for some things. And, it's easier,, and cheaper, to find larger billets in aluminum. Any large pieces of steel are completely out of sight price wise...........if you can even find them.

Speaking of larger steel billets.................I've had some good success with laminating plate to bring it up to the desired thickness. It's not suitable for everything, but can work well for some things.

[idacal]

I usually buy flat sheet in 1.75 - 2.5 thicknesses if i can find rems, then cut my parts out of that Then to the mill to clean up and face. Shipping in small pieces of spec metal is ridiculously expensive. But my mill can face at fairly high speeds basicly the limit of the vice holding it

[William McCormick]

I usually buy flat sheet in 1.75 - 2.5 thicknesses if i can find rems, then cut my parts out of that Then to the mill to clean up and face. Shipping in small pieces of spec metal is ridiculously expensive. But my mill can face at fairly high speeds basicly the limit of the vice holding it

They do not have bar cut-offs? Bar cut-offs can easily be found near me up to 3" thick and probably up to eight inches wide. The cut-offs are by the pound whatever their cut-off price is. The only problem now they have a $150 minimum purchase price. They probably have some 1410 laying around. Next time I go to get something I will check, what sizes would you be interested in? I often end up buying whole sheets of stainless steel and aluminum to make the $150 mark, so now I have sheets just sitting out there, haha.

Sincerely,

William McCormick

[William McCormick]

I'm starting to look at aluminum real hard for some future projects. I'm tired of fighting steel with small machines. I'm thinking that aluminum would be just fine for some things. And, it's easier,, and cheaper, to find larger billets in aluminum. Any large pieces of steel are completely out of sight price wise...........if you can even find them.

Speaking of larger steel billets.................I've had some good success with laminating plate to bring it up to the desired thickness. It's not suitable for everything, but can work well for some things.

Did you ever see them make ply-metal using explosives or thermite or whatever they use?


Sincerely,

William McCormick

[farmersammm]

Did you ever see them make ply-metal using explosives or thermite or whatever they use?


Sincerely,

William McCormick

I don't get that extreme I'm doing a lot of plug welding to laminate stuff these days. It works well for things that need mass, but don't have to be solid. Same with perimeter welding............the mass is more important than being a solid piece. It's limited in application, but saves a ton of money.

[mariusjon]

Turning chucks are mounted on universal and particular machines and clamp workpieces on the spindle axis. Thanks to their use, a secure clamping is achieved, and the clamping force is increased with high torque. The workpiece does not tear off and keeps the correct position during operation, reducing the risk of tool breakage and ensuring high production speed. Chucks for lathes are made of hardened steel, less often cast iron, and differ by design and purpose. So I am sure that many people will find this useful for hydraulic crimper sales sydney