Lincoln Invertec 160-T Pulse

[Gumneck]

For the last two months I have been looking to pickup scratch start tig parts to use with my Lincoln AC/DC 225. On the day I was going to place an order for the parts and priced a bottle of Argon, an ad on craigslist popped up for this. It wasn't what I was really looking for but after pricing out the parts I thought I would check it out. I wasn't able to try it out at the sellers apartment but I did at least make sure it would plug in and turn on/ fan would run.

The gas hose is so hard and curled plastic that you could never move the bottle more than a foot away from the machine. Plus, it has some deep scratches/rash marks that it may even leak. So I am ordering a new gas hose.

I did try it yesterday but I think the gas was not flowing from the torch as I didn't hear anything and the tiny arcs I burnt into a piece of sheet metal were indicative of no shielding. I will need to purchase some consumables also.

Until I can get a new hose I wont know if I got a good deal or not. I think I'm still going to pick up parts for a scratch start rig as it sounds like its the best way to learn.

[ccawgc]

Nice little tig unit. Has HF touch less start and 2T and 4T trigger start.
Go to Lincolns web site with the code number and you can down load the owners manual. To start with, turn pulser off, place in 2T mode, HF start. use any tungsten but green band. connect gas. place tungsten about 1/16 inch off a metal plate.
set current control around 100 amps. Then step on remote control. all the way down.
IF welder is working right the torch should fire and make an arc. back foot control up to the arc you want. In lift arc you touch tungsten to work for about a second then lift to make an arc. If foot control is connected you push on foot control , then touch and lift. Please check the owner's manual on exact operation. Not sure if this welder has panel control lift tig Or if you have to go inside and turn it on.
4T or 4 step acts different, like a trigger hold but it might work better with a trigger switch only with not current control. Read owner's manual it will tell you.
with out the code number I can't look up the owner's manual and check operation sequence.

[Munkul]

They're well regarded machines over here, made by Selco in Italy.

Unless they go wrong, that is, since Lincoln UK are horrible for stocking parts - they don't hold any spare boards for this generation of machines, from what I've been told by dealers.

Very nice to use, though. The 200 amp AC/DC version still commands a premium secondhand.

[Gumneck]

I downloaded the Operators Manual from Lincoln. The code no on machine is 11032. Some of the manual makes sense some parts not so much yet.

[Gumneck]

Received some new rubber gas hose. STill seem to have a leak somewhere. Have used soapy water on fittings around tank and regulator, all looks good. I would think the ball should rise up and sit at whatever level you set it to, mine pops up and floats back down when the secondary valve is opened. I haven't opened the rear panel yet but I think I will need to have a look.

[Gumneck]

So I pulled the back cover out and nothing jumped out at me as being missing, disconnected etc. So, What a good way to test the Harris 355 regulator? And the ball should stay to where you set it correct?

[ccawgc]

If the regulator has a flow gauge. Just loosen the hose fitting on the back of the welder so it leaks. Open the tank valve, then try to adjust the flow rate.
If the regulator is working correctly the ball should rise Quickly to the top then drop as pressure build in the hose, then float at one place.
Go up and down as you adjust the flow knob. A disconnected hose may have to much flow to adjust.

[Munkul]

Received some new rubber gas hose. STill seem to have a leak somewhere. Have used soapy water on fittings around tank and regulator, all looks good. I would think the ball should rise up and sit at whatever level you set it to, mine pops up and floats back down when the secondary valve is opened. I haven't opened the rear panel yet but I think I will need to have a look.

It will. The ball jumps as the flow fills the line from the regulator to the solenoid inside the welder. The flow stops when the line is full, so the ball drops again... You only have a leak when the ball stays floating, and you're not arcing up!