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Thread: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

  1. #1
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    hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    So I bought a hypertherm powermax 30 air about a year ago and used it a bunch when I first got it and loved it but I got busy with work and other projects and just barely started using it again and now I'm having all sorts of problems. I made 3 or 4 cuts today and basically burned up a consumable set every cut. The arc wont stay lit and its constantly grounding out the side. Even after changing the consumables the arc comes out the end of the torch at a slight angle for some reason. The drag end is not working either the tip just sticks to the piece I'm trying to cut. The torch cap light keeps coming on and as far as i can tell i have put the torch together correctly. I just followed the diagram on the back of the machine. The temp led kept coming on as well but it was just like 60 in my shop not hot or cold and i was only cutting 1/8 steel so not very thick. Anybody else had problems like this?

  2. #2
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    update messed with it a little today machine seems to be way down on power arc wont stay lit and keeps arcing off of the retaining cap.

  3. #3
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    Sounds as if the Pilot arc is staying engaged, and it is not transferring. I'm not a hypertherm person, but that is typically what happens when you see what you describe. Check your work clamp connections.
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    Quote Originally Posted by banditman View Post
    So I bought a hypertherm powermax 30 air about a year ago and used it a bunch when I first got it and loved it but I got busy with work and other projects and just barely started using it again and now I'm having all sorts of problems. I made 3 or 4 cuts today and basically burned up a consumable set every cut. The arc wont stay lit and its constantly grounding out the side. Even after changing the consumables the arc comes out the end of the torch at a slight angle for some reason. The drag end is not working either the tip just sticks to the piece I'm trying to cut. The torch cap light keeps coming on and as far as i can tell i have put the torch together correctly. I just followed the diagram on the back of the machine. The temp led kept coming on as well but it was just like 60 in my shop not hot or cold and i was only cutting 1/8 steel so not very thick. Anybody else had problems like this?
    Did you happen to put in a new o-ring with the correct grease on it? I was having trouble with my hypertherm a few weeks ago after changing most all the consumables with neg results I tried a new oring with the grease and also made sure that I had a good ground problem solved.

  5. #5
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    ill try that and see if it works

  6. #6
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    The o ring you are talking about is the one one the torch head when you take the consumables off correct?

  7. #7
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    Yes, here is a picture of my PAC 110 consumables. My Hypertherm is a old Powermax 350
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by gnewby; 03-13-2021 at 10:34 PM.

  8. #8
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    Quote Originally Posted by banditman View Post
    So I bought a hypertherm powermax 30 air about a year ago and used it a bunch when I first got it and loved it but I got busy with work and other projects and just barely started using it again and now I'm having all sorts of problems. I made 3 or 4 cuts today and basically burned up a consumable set every cut. The arc wont stay lit and its constantly grounding out the side. Even after changing the consumables the arc comes out the end of the torch at a slight angle for some reason. The drag end is not working either the tip just sticks to the piece I'm trying to cut. The torch cap light keeps coming on and as far as i can tell i have put the torch together correctly. I just followed the diagram on the back of the machine. The temp led kept coming on as well but it was just like 60 in my shop not hot or cold and i was only cutting 1/8 steel so not very thick. Anybody else had problems like this?
    Not familiar with the "air" hypertherm versions.... Does it have a built in water separator/filter?
    That would be the first thing I check.
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  9. #9
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    Hi,
    You might want to E-mail Jim Colt, he has been VERY helpful in the past!

    https://www.thefabricator.com/author/jim-colt

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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    cant find the part number for the oring on the torch anybody know what it is by chance?

  11. #11
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    where did you get your orings from?

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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    Quote Originally Posted by gnewby View Post
    Did you happen to put in a new o-ring with the correct grease on it? I was having trouble with my hypertherm a few weeks ago after changing most all the consumables with neg results I tried a new oring with the grease and also made sure that I had a good ground problem solved.
    where did you get your orings from?

  13. #13
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    Quote Originally Posted by banditman View Post
    where did you get your orings from?
    I bought mine from Hypertherm along with other consumables including a tube of the grease.

  14. #14
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    Quote Originally Posted by gnewby View Post
    I bought mine from Hypertherm along with other consumables including a tube of the grease.
    Well done, that's very forward-thinking!

  15. #15
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    Re: hypertherm powermax 30 air problems

    The 30 air uses special consumables. The electrode is a different shape than other hypertherm units. Make sure you have the right set, swirl ring is not damaged or out of round. turn the swirl ring in the torch head and make sure torch head in still round.
    They can get bent if dropped with the retaining cap off. If the plasma is coming out of the nozzle at an angle with new consumables. Something is damaged in the torch. The electrode and tip must be centered to work right. If you can look into the tip it should center on the silver dot on the end of the electrode. Make sure the o-ring is on the electrode. The only way to check the compressor and see if it is working right is to T in a pressure gauge between the compressor and the torch. 40 to 50 psi is good.
    Below 40, compressor is bad, over 50 and torch is bad, Plugged air channel.
    Hypertherm does sell a test kit just for this.
    If you have access to a DC Clamp meter, put it on the work lead and measure the current during a cut and see if steady. dropping out could be a bad connection or broken wire in the work lead. This will make the arc drop back to the pilot arc and it will cut bad and wear out the nozzle fast. and stop cutting after a few seconds.

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