Replyupdate messed with it a little today machine seems to be way down on power arc wont stay lit and keeps arcing off of the retaining cap.
WeldingWeb Apprentice
So I bought a hypertherm powermax 30 air about a year ago and used it a bunch when I first got it and loved it but I got busy with work and other projects and just barely started using it again and now I'm having all sorts of problems. I made 3 or 4 cuts today and basically burned up a consumable set every cut. The arc wont stay lit and its constantly grounding out the side. Even after changing the consumables the arc comes out the end of the torch at a slight angle for some reason. The drag end is not working either the tip just sticks to the piece I'm trying to cut. The torch cap light keeps coming on and as far as i can tell i have put the torch together correctly. I just followed the diagram on the back of the machine. The temp led kept coming on as well but it was just like 60 in my shop not hot or cold and i was only cutting 1/8 steel so not very thick. Anybody else had problems like this?
WeldingWeb Apprentice
update messed with it a little today machine seems to be way down on power arc wont stay lit and keeps arcing off of the retaining cap.
Master Welder
Sounds as if the Pilot arc is staying engaged, and it is not transferring. I'm not a hypertherm person, but that is typically what happens when you see what you describe. Check your work clamp connections.
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WeldingWeb Tradesman
Did you happen to put in a new o-ring with the correct grease on it? I was having trouble with my hypertherm a few weeks ago after changing most all the consumables with neg results I tried a new oring with the grease and also made sure that I had a good ground problem solved.Originally Posted by banditman
WeldingWeb Apprentice
ill try that and see if it works
WeldingWeb Apprentice
The o ring you are talking about is the one one the torch head when you take the consumables off correct?
WeldingWeb Tradesman
Yes, here is a picture of my PAC 110 consumables. My Hypertherm is a old Powermax 350
Last edited by gnewby; 03-13-2021 at 10:34 PM.
Master Welder
Not familiar with the "air" hypertherm versions.... Does it have a built in water separator/filter?
That would be the first thing I check.
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WeldingWeb Journeyman
Hi,
You might want to E-mail Jim Colt, he has been VERY helpful in the past!
https://www.thefabricator.com/author/jim-colt
WeldingWeb Apprentice
cant find the part number for the oring on the torch anybody know what it is by chance?
WeldingWeb Apprentice
where did you get your orings from?
WeldingWeb Apprentice
where did you get your orings from?
WeldingWeb Tradesman
I bought mine from Hypertherm along with other consumables including a tube of the grease.
WeldingWeb Apprentice
Well done, that's very forward-thinking!
Master Welder
The 30 air uses special consumables. The electrode is a different shape than other hypertherm units. Make sure you have the right set, swirl ring is not damaged or out of round. turn the swirl ring in the torch head and make sure torch head in still round.
They can get bent if dropped with the retaining cap off. If the plasma is coming out of the nozzle at an angle with new consumables. Something is damaged in the torch. The electrode and tip must be centered to work right. If you can look into the tip it should center on the silver dot on the end of the electrode. Make sure the o-ring is on the electrode. The only way to check the compressor and see if it is working right is to T in a pressure gauge between the compressor and the torch. 40 to 50 psi is good.
Below 40, compressor is bad, over 50 and torch is bad, Plugged air channel.
Hypertherm does sell a test kit just for this.
If you have access to a DC Clamp meter, put it on the work lead and measure the current during a cut and see if steady. dropping out could be a bad connection or broken wire in the work lead. This will make the arc drop back to the pilot arc and it will cut bad and wear out the nozzle fast. and stop cutting after a few seconds.
Solderer
Hello did you ever find the solution for this problem. I have the same unit same problem but my torch is centered. Does cut just sticks to the surface the same. Burning through consumables
Master Welder
I used ccawgc info to revisit my issue with my Thermal Dynamics Aircut 15c It's pilot arc never worked when I got this mint $300 ebay unit.. The info above made me open it up again to check the torch leads with a meter... Turned out that a wire was not touching the spade terminal very well It was riding beside it. I plugged it in correctly, and everything works like new.. Puts out 17 amps, and will run on 15 amp line pretty well.. Not as powerful as the 30 air but It's been around way longer and no torch/consumable issues with the standard available PCh-10 torch Thermacut options,so keeps the prices really low on ebay. Late model korean made unit.I always regretted selling my last one that worked well, but now I don't.. Being lower output drag cutting does not burn up tips very much at all.. Most all in one air models are always bit more finicky than standard compressed units. lot of them use special consumables, and are a PITA in general.. I owned the Esab, and Hobart/Miller units, and larger Thermal units and they are no exceptions to that. The Aircut is the only one I found that uses standard stuff. 10 quality electodes for this https://www.ebay.com/itm/204109515446
Last edited by Brand X; 02-07-2023 at 01:09 AM.
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WeldingWeb Apprentice
not really the only thing i figured out was i had the consumables done up way to tight and that was causing some of the problems. They only need to just be finger tight. sorry not a very good answer to the problem
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