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Thread: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

  1. #26
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    I have a kit for that. Mostly used for securing forktruck 350amp connector lugs. Doesn't take too long with just a map gas torch, might take a little longer for that clamp. Don't forget to use ample flux if you want it to flow well.

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    I like the use of the lathe, sometimes I use it to make some thing I could buy, but I love to machine some copper/brass/aluminum every now and then. Most times I think I would use a strip of aluminum cut from a beer can.

    I like using lugs whenever I can, the hammer fixture I bought works out well most of the time. A hydraulic crimper would be nice , but not in this years budget.

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    Even with a tray of shrink tube , I still have stuff with electrical tape on it.


    What do you have for a lathe ?
    Last edited by albrightree; 03-22-2021 at 10:55 AM.
    Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square wave
    Miller Synchrowave 180 sd
    Miller Econo Twin HF
    Lincoln 210 MP
    Dayton 225 ac/dc
    Victor torches
    Snap-On YA-212
    Lotos Cut60D

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  3. #27
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Thanks ,
    I have a Emco maier compact 5 manual mini lathe and a Logan 11" swing full size manual lathe. I used the mini, because I always keep it set up for small turnings.
    I have zero experience with soldering.
    Thanks again

  4. #28
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by Rondo View Post
    Some folks simply solder the cable to the clamp. When it's time to change the clamp or cable they simply heat and remove.
    Soldering the end isn't as effective as a copper sleeve.
    When soldered, it holds strands together but the set screw contact point is only the tip. Without a cable holder on clamp, it can be pulled out easier.
    Using a sleeve or wrapping a copper strip,the set screw points contacts the copper and as tighten the copper forms around the set screw. You have better contact in my opinion.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  6. #29
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    Soldering the end isn't as effective as a copper sleeve.

    Using a sleeve or wrapping a copper strip, the set screw points contacts the copper and as tighten the copper forms around the set screw. You have better contact in my opinion.
    Most people do not realize that a crimped connection is better than a soldered connection.
    Many states outlawed soldered electrical connections in home wiring a LONG time ago.
    Crimp connections can be used, in many situations.

    The screw tightening on the copper tube over the stranded wire is sort of like a "Super Crimp!"

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  8. #30
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    Soldering the end isn't as effective as a copper sleeve.
    When soldered, it holds strands together but the set screw contact point is only the tip. Without a cable holder on clamp, it can be pulled out easier.
    Using a sleeve or wrapping a copper strip,the set screw points contacts the copper and as tighten the copper forms around the set screw. You have better contact in my opinion.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    There is no value in soldering if you don't wrap tightly with a single strand of #16 or #14.
    I disagree the solder has no value. It keeps oxygen away from the multi strands & serves as an anode preventing the large surface area of the flexible cable from oxidizing.

    A lot of people misread, or hearsay that NEC doesn't allow soldering. Code only requires a mechanically sound connection along with soldering. In welder cable, I doubt it applies.
    An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.

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  10. #31
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Won't dielectric grease do the same thing, Willie (specifically, exclude oxygen and air and moisture and condensation) while also ruling out the possibility of galvanic corrosion between the solder and the copper once air and moisture/condensation get in there, while also not introducing the lower electrical conductivity of the solder alloy into the equation? (Isn't copper the #2 or #3 most electrically conductive element after silver?)

    Seems like I also heard somewhere that electrons travel over the surface of stranded copper even moreso than through its core, and the stranded version will carry more current with less resistance than the soldered composite...

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  12. #32
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Soldering is great if done right. It's used on battery cables that need a good connection. Some of the connections you basically put the cable right into liquid solder and let it cool. Crimping is good too but you need the proper crimping tool. One thing I wish they made was the screw/bolt type connection for battery cables. It would be simple to install and guaranteed to be tight. On my dump truck I used a compression fitting to fix one of the battery cables. Hollow bolt type piece cable goes through is tapered with 4 slots along it's length and threads in a solid sleeve squishing the cable together with the fingers.

  13. #33
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    It looks like the clamp is not closing with the spring pressure. Somewhere in the hinge is a stop that needs to be filed down so the jaws can continue to move and close the clamp.

  14. #34
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Look like a new clamp.
    I would solder the cable end then install the cable the set screw will better and not heat up.

    I solder all cables ends it helps keeps down at end of cable.

    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonath108 View Post
    Hi everyone
    Just bought a like new but used Tweco CC 300 Junior work clamp from Ebay. I had no idea it was missing a copper shim until I watched a video of replacing one.
    Where can I buy a copper shim for this exact model ?
    I do not think Tweco still makes this model, as that is why I looker to Ebay. Now I am thinking I need to buy one that is new in the box, unopened.
    Any help is greatly appreciated.

  15. #35
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by mwshaw View Post
    It looks like the clamp is not closing with the spring pressure. Somewhere in the hinge is a stop that needs to be filed down so the jaws can continue to move and close the clamp.
    Nope, there is no stop on those clamps, that is an older one that doesn't have an insulated spring. If the copper hinge pin isn't making good contact and the jaw opposite the cable is the one carrying the current the spring heats up and becomes a wet noodle. Again, that's the reason I went to the big Lenco types with the huge copper strap connecting the jaw contacts.

  16. #36
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by smithdoor View Post
    Look like a new clamp.
    I would solder the cable end then install the cable the set screw will better and not heat up.

    I solder all cables ends it helps keeps down at end of cable.

    Dave
    Yeah, solder on welding leads makes a good fuse. I have some really good crimping tools of several different types and won't bother wasting the time to solder stuff. Had too many solder joints pull apart if something overheats.
    Had to redo a bunch of 2/0 battery cables on one of my trucks that somebody had soldered and the solder melted out trying to get the truck started in cold weather. Cut, stripped, and crimped... now it starts just fine at -10*

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  18. #37
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    I solder and clamp the cable ends.
    If cable get above 450F the insulation is over heating too.
    Most insulation is about 90C 194F witch is under 450F . Used lead bullets as little higher temperature over 60/40 solder.

    After started soldering the ends I had no more cable end problems

    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by 12V71 View Post
    Yeah, solder on welding leads makes a good fuse. I have some really good crimping tools of several different types and won't bother wasting the time to solder stuff. Had too many solder joints pull apart if something overheats.
    Had to redo a bunch of 2/0 battery cables on one of my trucks that somebody had soldered and the solder melted out trying to get the truck started in cold weather. Cut, stripped, and crimped... now it starts just fine at -10*
    Last edited by smithdoor; 03-22-2021 at 08:34 PM.

  19. #38
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin View Post
    Won't dielectric grease do the same thing, Willie (specifically, exclude oxygen and air and moisture and condensation) while also ruling out the possibility of galvanic corrosion between the solder and the copper once air and moisture/condensation get in there, while also not introducing the lower electrical conductivity of the solder alloy into the equation? (Isn't copper the #2 or #3 most electrically conductive element after silver?)

    Seems like I also heard somewhere that electrons travel over the surface of stranded copper even moreso than through its core, and the stranded version will carry more current with less resistance than the soldered composite...
    Indeed it will. I choose Noalox from Ideal. It is dielectric grease with zinc serving as an anode.

    A connector as mentioned here, designed for a very finely stranded cable needs something to prevent the strands from mashing all over, not all being compressed in the clamp.

    A good connection today needs a "shim" or it needs a sleeve of copper tube. I find copper tubes might not be the right size. A tight wrap of copper wire becomes the right size.

    first day, it won't offer resistance measurable. As the surface of hundreds of strands oxidize, the connection becomes high resistance. Grease protectants are good. Solder is also a good way to prevent oxidation.
    An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.

  20. #39
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by 12V71 View Post
    Yeah, solder on welding leads makes a good fuse. I have some really good crimping tools of several different types and won't bother wasting the time to solder stuff. Had too many solder joints pull apart if something overheats.
    Had to redo a bunch of 2/0 battery cables on one of my trucks that somebody had soldered and the solder melted out trying to get the truck started in cold weather. Cut, stripped, and crimped... now it starts just fine at -10*
    I'm in the same camp as you. Seen way to many failures with solder. Never seen a properly done crimp fail.

  21. #40
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by M J D View Post
    I'm in the same camp as you. Seen way to many failures with solder. Never seen a properly done crimp fail.
    One warning I'm seeing in the heavy equipment service manuals is to NOT solder 14-16 gauge wire connections on engine sensors/ECM plugs etc, mostly Deutch style connector barrels. Quote from Caterpillar "soldering creates a "hard" spot in the wire leading to the conductor breaking off at the end of the soldered area from vibration work hardening the copper strands".

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  23. #41
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by albrightree View Post
    I have a kit for that. Mostly used for securing forktruck 350amp connector lugs. Doesn't take too long with just a map gas torch, might take a little longer for that clamp. Don't forget to use ample flux if you want it to flow well.

    Name:  003.jpg
Views: 152
Size:  118.5 KB

    I like the use of the lathe, sometimes I use it to make some thing I could buy, but I love to machine some copper/brass/aluminum every now and then. Most times I think I would use a strip of aluminum cut from a beer can.

    I like using lugs whenever I can, the hammer fixture I bought works out well most of the time. A hydraulic crimper would be nice , but not in this years budget.

    Name:  004.jpg
Views: 152
Size:  154.2 KB
    Even with a tray of shrink tube , I still have stuff with electrical tape on it.


    What do you have for a lathe ?
    I like your hammer crimped jig, did you make it or buy it. What is a good crimper tool for 1/0 -2/0 welding cable to the terminals on my 1977 -78 Dialarc Hf ?
    Thanks

  24. #42
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonath108 View Post
    I like your hammer crimped jig, did you make it or buy it. What is a good crimper tool for 1/0 -2/0 welding cable to the terminals on my 1977 -78 Dialarc Hf ?
    Thanks
    The hammer type crimp tool is the best one for the price, you can get them from most cable suppliers or even a NAPA store. I keep one in each truck with a selection of lugs so nobody has an excuse to leave the job if they pull a lug off a cable.
    I prefer to use them in the hydraulic press or with the biggest hammer I can swing one handed. You also want a good solid surface to set the tool on, forklift counterweights are ideal.

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  26. #43
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by 12V71 View Post
    The hammer type crimp tool is the best one for the price, you can get them from most cable suppliers or even a NAPA store. I keep one in each truck with a selection of lugs so nobody has an excuse to leave the job if they pull a lug off a cable.
    I prefer to use them in the hydraulic press or with the biggest hammer I can swing one handed. You also want a good solid surface to set the tool on, forklift counterweights are ideal.
    Thank you,
    I like that , will pick one up.

  27. #44
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    I got mine "free" with a tray full of lugs (that cost $350 ) . They are really good at holding the assembly together while your striking it. It even has markings for the different gauge wire, and a latch to hold up the punch when loading. When I got the kit , I said to my boss, " I'll probably never use that thing" . After having it for a couple of years, I find I use it all the time on electrical lugs, and even on some wire rope crimps that we use for cargo netting in the warehouse ( NO, not for 3/8" steel winch lines )

    Here's a link for one on the MSCDirect site : https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/45649506

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    for under $40
    Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square wave
    Miller Synchrowave 180 sd
    Miller Econo Twin HF
    Lincoln 210 MP
    Dayton 225 ac/dc
    Victor torches
    Snap-On YA-212
    Lotos Cut60D

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  29. #45
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Most DC electricians (telecom) are required to use irreversible hydraulic crimped connections on all battery cables. The crimpers they use are battery powered & cost upwards of $1500. If you slice a crimped connection it looks like the wires are fused due to the high pressure used to crimp them. Amazon has some cheaper manual crimpers that are less than $100.

    These use Burnedy type aluminum lugs @ will never give any problems with typical use.
    https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Cri...510439&sr=8-12

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  31. #46
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    If you solder then the connection can be reused.

    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by albrightree View Post
    I got mine "free" with a tray full of lugs (that cost $350 ) . They are really good at holding the assembly together while your striking it. It even has markings for the different gauge wire, and a latch to hold up the punch when loading. When I got the kit , I said to my boss, " I'll probably never use that thing" . After having it for a couple of years, I find I use it all the time on electrical lugs, and even on some wire rope crimps that we use for cargo netting in the warehouse ( NO, not for 3/8" steel winch lines )

    Here's a link for one on the MSCDirect site : https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/45649506

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    for under $40

  32. #47
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by 12V71 View Post
    The hammer type crimp tool is the best one for the price, you can get them from most cable suppliers or even a NAPA store. I keep one in each truck with a selection of lugs so nobody has an excuse to leave the job if they pull a lug off a cable.
    I prefer to use them in the hydraulic press or with the biggest hammer I can swing one handed. You also want a good solid surface to set the tool on, forklift counterweights are ideal.
    I have used the hydraulic press.





    But pretty hard to beat the psychological impact of a BFH


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    :

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  34. #48
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Quote Originally Posted by cwby View Post
    These use Burnedy type aluminum lugs @ will never give any problems with typical use.
    Aluminum lugs on copper wire would last about 38 minutes in a marine environment before disappearing into thin air.

  35. #49
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    There are some good hand powered cable crimpers. Some of them use special crimp ferrules on the wire.

    https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/703040

  36. #50
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    Re: Help needed for Copper Tweco 300 work clamp

    Who would use aluminum for lugs for welding machine.
    If can not find the size I make one out Type L copper tubing. Then solder the lug.
    This has work ever time on all my welders and lasted for over 30 years.

    FYI I do use crimp fittings for under 12 gauge/ 20 amps wire.
    Most welders are typically over 150 amps and crimping just does not hold up over time.

    My father used crimp on they would last about 2 to 5 years. I just want to reuse the lug to save money. So I solder the lug and found out they lasted for ever. Even the largest welder 750 amps.

    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin View Post
    Aluminum lugs on copper wire would last about 38 minutes in a marine environment before disappearing into thin air.
    Last edited by smithdoor; 03-23-2021 at 10:20 PM.

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