The Oh Fishall Fuel Pump Thread

[farmersammm]

Little 1 ton is down with a bad pump.

Still have no real grass here, and bringing in hay.

THE FIRST BOGOSITY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is insane. The friggin' bale will last about an hour when it's fed.



Helluva thing for a little pickup like this

THE SECOND BOGOSITY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the way to the feeder, WHICH SHOULD BE AT LEAST 5 FEEDERS WORTH OF HAY, a gentle PLUMPH



Backing up, to get back to the house without peeling the tire off the rim I BACK OVER THE STINKIN' PORTABLE PANEL ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE FRIGGIN' TRACTOR.

A perfect day????????????????? Maybe not............but it's the only stinkin' day I got

Work on the 1 ton starts tomorrow.....................IF I'M IN THE STINKIN' MOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[farmersammm]

Of course, this pushes back the radiator repair, and steering line repair, and other crap, on the Allis. Not to mention................work on the concrete mixer is looking like nothing but a fond wish at this point

[12V71]

Was that the auction tire you put the big boot in ?

[farmersammm]

Was that the auction tire you put the big boot in ?

No, it's still going strong. This is the tire on the opposite side of the tractor.

I did get a newish(I mean almost store bought new) tire near the Kansas border last Summer. $400 for tire, and rim. It's sitting in the yard ready to go...........THANK GOD!!

[farmersammm]

BTW.........thanks for remembering. I follow your stuff pretty closely too

[12V71]

I've seen those boots go a long time on a good sized gash, kind of looks like bubble gum sometimes but somehow holds.

[farmersammm]

I'll post a pic of how it's holding up. I wince every time I look at it, but it's still rollin' fine. Looks like a carbuncle on the British Prime Minister's pratt. (That shouldn't get edited)

[farmersammm]

Looks like a roid

[farmshop]

Looks like another day farming. At the end of the day your exhausted and not a darn thing was crossed of the to do list. If it was easy anyone could do it

[farmersammm]

Today, we started the first phase of the fuel pump replacement. Fixing the flat on the loader tractor

Snagged the new tire/rim from out in the yard.



Pulled the old one off.





Put the new wheel on the tractor, AND PROMPTLY NOTICED THE STINKIN' TREAD WAS FACING THE WRONG WAY

Now we gotta take it off, and flip it around.

I get in a hurry, and accidently lift the entire stinkin' tractor with the crane. Not much, maybe one inch or less...............But enough to knock the bstd off the jack. Luckily the wedges were still on the wheel, partially loose....but with nuts still on.....so the thing just came down on the loose wheel.

So now, because the jack tipped forward, the tractor moved forward about a foot or so. NOW THE PROPER PLACE FOR THE JACK IS IN HALF OF THE PIT I HAD TO DIG TO PUT A JACKSTAND UNDER THE LOADER FRAME TO LIFT THE TRACTOR IN STAGES.

Gotta lengthen the little pit so I can put the Uranus 476 Jack Pylon in the hole, and use a midget jack.

Take an Act of God to knock that thing off now. Anyways, it's up, and I have the wheel loose, and ready to reverse. K'kins wanders off to keep a safe distance from the foul language. I get her put back on right, and will finish up lining the wedges up tomorrow. By this time it was starting to get dark, and I decided I'd had about as much fun as one guy can handle in a single day.

[12V71]

I knew a guy that had a dairy and his pen cleaning tractor had one rear facing forward and the other facing rearward. He said "one gets me in, the other gets me out". Hard to argue that logic.

[farmersammm]

We Gots Wheeeeeeels!!!!!!!!!!

You might note that the tread is facing the right way now

I had one Hell of a time seating the wedges on the new rim. The old rim was no problem, and the other old rim that I mounted the booted tire on was no problem. This one fought me. I COULD NOT GET THE WEDGES TO SUCK DOWN.

These wedges hold the rim to the hub.

Finally, I threw in the towel, and got a bigger hammer.

She's an older girl that I don't often pull out of the toolbox. It's nice to have it though. It was just what the doctor ordered.

[farmersammm]

While the victory was fresh, I decided to keep the momentum. (Things start to go your way, and you're a fool to fight the tide)

I finally got around to re-installing the exhaust cap. I can't tell you how many times I've had to run out in the middle of the night to put a bucket over the stack to keep the water out when it rains. We're on a roll guys

Phase II starts tomorrow. Put the rest of the last load of hay (we were able to borrow the pumpers truck from K'kins boss to go get a load) out, then swap the spears for the boom attachment so's I can lift the bed off the 1 ton.

[whtbaron]

I like the color of that spare rim. Now all you need is a green tractor to go with it...

[farmshop]

Many a wedges been broke by young bucks with 3/4” guns when they start at one side of the wheel and work their way around granted sammmm knows better then that

[farmersammm]

Many a wedges been broke by young bucks with 3/4” guns when they start at one side of the wheel and work their way around granted sammmm knows better then that

I'm used to Dayton truck rims. Have to tighten on opposite sides as you work the wedges in. Something about this rim is wrong. I've never had this kind of trouble. Usually just use a 3/4" drive hand ratchet. The guy said it was on a tractor used for logging. I think he mentioned that these were duals.............never owned anything with duals, so I don't know how they set them up.

I could care less about the wedges. My biggest worry was possibly cracking the hub disc.

[farmersammm]

Why the F not (shrug). Everything about this whole couple of weeks has been a cluster F.

Have to have the tractor, so in the meantime.....................keep air in it while using it.

Then park the damn thing near air, battery charger (bad alternator), and water line (bad radiator). Keep the blocks under it so that it doesn't go down on the rim each time the air leaks out overnight. Let it keep going down, it'll either break the bead making it impossible to air up..........or ruin the sidewall from the repeated folding when it goes flat. I'll get to it when I get to it.

Meanwhile, the trucks in the shop ready to pull the bed tomorrow. If it isn't a sea of mud what with the rain we're getting.

I really don't give a sh## anymore (shrug)

[12V71]

If that is a tubeless tire and was holding air before it was mounted, spray the rim down with soapy water and make sure it doesn't have a hairline crack from horsing the wedges down that tight. I've seen plenty of that. I've mounted bunches of those rims, some fit tight some loose, Those wedges do not have to be sucked down flat on the center. As long as the engagement surfaces are in contact and the nuts are at the proper torque it's not going anywhere. In fact a bit of gap between the wedge and the center is good, gives you room the retorque if the rim stretches, and heavily loaded ones will. It's more of a case of pushing the center if the rim to the inside of the tire rather than stretching the whole rim.

[farmersammm]

If that is a tubeless tire and was holding air before it was mounted, spray the rim down with soapy water and make sure it doesn't have a hairline crack from horsing the wedges down that tight. I've seen plenty of that. I've mounted bunches of those rims, some fit tight some loose, Those wedges do not have to be sucked down flat on the center. As long as the engagement surfaces are in contact and the nuts are at the proper torque it's not going anywhere. In fact a bit of gap between the wedge and the center is good, gives you room the retorque if the rim stretches, and heavily loaded ones will. It's more of a case of pushing the center if the rim to the inside of the tire rather than stretching the whole rim.

The tire was flat when I picked it up yesterday. I assumed it was a slow leak over the almost 1yr it's been sitting in the yard. Obviously I was wrong.

Probably wind up stuffing an inner tube in it, and calling it a day.

The guy welded a valve protector thing on the rim. Not in the flat area surrounding the valve, but on the bead portion of the rim. This will probably be the first place I test.

The valve itself looks to have leaked calcium at one time. The metal is pitted around the valve stem hole. I didn't notice this when I bought the damn thing. That'll be the second area I test. The tire doesn't have calcium in it,, but who knows what that rim has seen in its lifetime. I replaced both rims on the Oliver when I drained the calcium 20 some yrs ago.

I've got 2 tractors with this style wheel. This one, and a 1370 Case. I've never seen either one that had the wedges stand over 1/4" proud when tightened. They've always been easy on, easy off. Wedges fully seated when mounted.......without having to apply a huge amount of force. As a matter of fact, I prefer this type of wheel to the spinout wheels I have on the other 2 tractors........less runout to deal with.

This whole thing has driven me nuts. I'll probably switch the tire to the good rim when I get a chance. I just don't like the way this one went on.

Hell...I don't do a lot of these obviously. Just the stuff I own. Never knew these might be able to stand so proud,, and work properly.

[farmersammm]

Bingo!!

I've been up all night looking for some torque specs on the thing. This is worrying me to death.

This is from the operators (not maintenance) manual for the Case 1370. They always publish 2 manuals on these machines. This wasn't included in any of the Allis, or Oliver, manuals........but the Case system is identical to the wheel I'm working on now.

So............it looks like I was totally off base. I'm thinking that all the rims on my old machines have probably been stretched, and that's why the wedges fully bottom when tightened REASONABLY.

The JD rim might be a fresher, unstretched rim, and won't allow the wedges to travel as far.

Back off those things in the morning (Hell, it's already morning), and reset them.

BTW.......THANKS FOR GETTING ME THINKING ABOUT THIS Y'ALL

[farmersammm]

Double thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!! 12v71, and farmshop.

[cwby]

I had my tire guy replace tires on a 4220. Everything went good for about a week - tires stayed up. Moved the tractor about 300 yards, parked it & about 3 days later a flat! What the heck?. Called me tire guy, he came out broke it down & the tube was leaking in an inside seam - allright bad tube from china, replaced it & all is good? Wait about 3 days & the tire was flat again, called tire guy & he never came out, called another tire guy, he broke it down, tubes leaking on the inside seam again. This tire guy found the tiny crack in the rim that was pinching the tube. Wrapped duct tape around the rim, remounted wit new tube & it's been good for a couple of years now.

Point of the story - if you tube it, tape the rim - may save you another dismount/remount.

[farmshop]

We have all been down these same roads just not brave enough to show our struggles to the masses. Usually those putter rims will have grooves wore into them from loose wedges over the 20 or 30 year life so the wedges sit down farther

[12V71]

We have all been down these same roads just not brave enough to show our struggles to the masses. Usually those putter rims will have grooves wore into them from loose wedges over the 20 or 30 year life so the wedges sit down farther

I've seen 'em with holes worn in them.

[whtbaron]

Our 5020 had that style of rim, and we used to take the duals off every year when I put it on the pull type combine (needed the clearance with an 18 ft. swath). Big thing is to get 4 started evenly at opposite sides (you know, the four corners of a circle...) and run around a couple times loosely. I've had tire shops slap them in and I have to loosen them off to get them running straight. You'll feel a crooked one right away in road gear... I wouldn't get in a panic about making them super tight. I just ran around them quick with the 1/2" impact (it is a Blue Point) after I snugged it straight and call it a day. I've never had one come loose.